Tactical Flood for Night Walk & Watch ?

[kimo_james]

Love my new Streamlight Stinger 2020 and now would like to try a flood for walks and looking around the house outdoors at night .

NItecore P20iX ?

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
___X_This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
____Up to $50.
____Up to $100.
___X_Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
____Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

____I am not sure, please help me decide.
__X__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
____I want a self-contained headlamp.
____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
____TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
___X_SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
____XMEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
____I don't know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

___X_LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

___X_I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
___X_I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
____I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)
____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
____I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)
___X_I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
____I don't care


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
____I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
____I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
__X_I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
__X I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

____SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

___X_All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
___X_Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
___X_Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
____Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
___X_30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
___X_90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
___X_Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
__X__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
__X__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ...---... emergency pattern)
____I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
__X__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.

15) Water resistance
____None needed
____IPX4 (Splash resistant)
___X_IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
____IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

16) Storage conditions
__X__In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
____Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
____Other_____________________________________________


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments

 

[Olumin]

There's really only one option & it's a Malkoff wildcat.

 

[kimo_james]

There's really only one option & it's a Malkoff wildcat.

Their website shows currently shows :

Malkoff Wildcat XP-L Flashlight , MD4 , Standard Tail Cap , Cool White

and

Malkoff Wildcat 18650 Head Only , Cool or Neutral

 

[Olumin]

Yes, MD4 is the body/battery tube. Id go with the MD4 for the longer runtime & better balance. I don't think you'll notice the slightly higher output of the cool version. I can recommend the neutral. Tricap is for roll protection if that's important to you but mostly for looking cool

 

[kimo_james]

Yes, MD4 is the body/battery tube. Id go with the MD4 for the longer runtime & better balance. I don't think you'll notice the slightly higher output of the cool version. I can recommend the neutral. Tricap is for roll protection if that's important to you but mostly for looking cool

MD4 over MD3 or MD21700 ?

 

[Olumin]

MD4 will give you the most runtime & the best balance in the hand (not too head-heavy). Id only choose the MD3 or MD21700 if you need something smaller. Keep in mind that with the MD21700 only the 18650 wildcat will give you full output & runtime. Id go with the XP-L & MD4 combo. Whether you choose cool or neutral is personal preference but Ive got the hound dog in neutral & love the tint on mine.

 

[kimo_james]

MD4 will give you the most runtime & the best balance in the hand (not too head-heavy). Id only choose the MD3 or MD21700 if you need something smaller. Keep in mind that with the MD21700 only the 18650 wildcat will give you full output & runtime. Id go with the XP-L & MD4 combo. Whether you choose cool or neutral is personal preference but Ive got the hound dog in neutral & love the tint on mine.

Only issue may be the 8-3/4 inches length .
Was thinking something more EDC than my Stinger 2020 which is approx. 7-3/4 in.
But not ruling the Wildcat out .

 

[kerneldrop]

Only issue may be the 8-3/4 inches length .
Was thinking something more EDC than my Stinger 2020 which is approx. 7-3/4 in.
But not ruling the Wildcat out .

If the Wildcat is too large then check out the Malkoff MDC Neutral 16650. He's got a kit with a battery and charger.

Bigger than that, but smaller than a Wildcat is an MD2.

The small lights capable of blasting 800+ lumens get hot after 5 seconds.

You want a conservative light that will last a long time, manage heat and be dependable.

 

[Olumin]

The Wildcat 18650 with a MD21700 would still be a great combo if you want reduced length & should be more then an hour of full output with a 5000mAh cell. Thats only gonna be a tad over 6 inches.

I carry my hound dog in a leather-loop style holster for C Maglites & Ive found it very convenient. That being said I dont edc it.

 

[kimo_james]

The Wildcat 18650 with a MD21700 would still be a great combo if you want reduced length & should be more then an hour of full output with a 5000mAh cell. Thats only gonna be a tad over 6 inches.

I carry my hound dog in a leather-loop style holster for C Maglites & Ive found it very convenient. That being said I dont edc it.

Is there an EDC flood you like ?

 

[Olumin]

The only dedicated flooder I have is a surefire G2x MV which was my daily driver for a couple of years actually. I dont tend to use floody lights these days but its still around. I didn't carry that tho, mainly for use around the house.

 

[kerneldrop]

Is there an EDC flood you like ?

Lumintop FWAA is floody.

I have a couple pocketable 18650 floody lights I built that I can sell you. One has diffuser paper to make it floody, one is all flood that's just a wall of light.

Now this is ultra floody. No hot spot…all spill. I have one in dark gray if blue isn't your jam. Samsung 351 4000K LED. perfect for outdoor use.

 

[fulee9999]

I think you could get a Malkoff MD3 body with tail, a Wildcat XP-L head and a spare MDX head, in which case you would have a Wildcat you can use that has 900 lumens, but you would also have the possibility to buy any P60 drop-in and have a different light.

For flood I use a "KDLITKER Quad Nichia 219BT 1400 Lumens High CRI LED Drop-in Module" which goes into basically any p60 host and only costs around $20

Edit: Or maybe you can check out the Emisar lights, like EMISAR D4SV2 26650 or Emisar D4V2, they are high power customizable ( on order ) lights

 

[kerneldrop]

For flood I use a "KDLITKER Quad Nichia 219BT 1400 Lumens High CRI LED Drop-in Module" which goes into basically any p60 host and only costs around $20

I ordered one of those to mod. I wanted the heavier shell and parts to make a 519a P60 quad. That thing is put together really well. Better than I expected. All the threads have white epoxy that doesn't loosen with heat. The LED board is glued down with epoxy to the brass pill. I ended up having to trash the host. You can easily take out the driver but it's impossible to take out the lens and LEDs.

 

[fulee9999]

I ordered one of those to mod. I wanted the heavier shell and parts to make a 519a P60 quad. That thing is put together really well. Better than I expected. All the threads have white epoxy that doesn't loosen with heat. The LED board is glued down with epoxy to the brass pill. I ended up having to trash the host. You can easily take out the driver but it's impossible to take out the lens and LEDs.

I've been very satisfied with Kaidomain so far, I've been sourcing my various small parts from them and had always got what I expected, hands down one of the best shops for modding.

I would hazard a guess that they can make you a 519A quad on request, or sell you just the empty p60 drop-in ( everything else, the driver, mcpcb, and lens are already available through the webshop )

 

[kerneldrop]

The king of floods. You can't get anymore flood than what this guy puts out

 

[Megalamuffin]

I think you could get a Malkoff MD3 body with tail, a Wildcat XP-L head and a spare MDX head, in which case you would have a Wildcat you can use that has 900 lumens, but you would also have the possibility to buy any P60 drop-in and have a different light.

For flood I use a "KDLITKER Quad Nichia 219BT 1400 Lumens High CRI LED Drop-in Module" which goes into basically any p60 host and only costs around $20

Edit: Or maybe you can check out the Emisar lights, like EMISAR D4SV2 26650 or Emisar D4V2, they are high power customizable ( on order ) lights

Does the kdlitker leave much of a bezel gap when it's installed in a SF?

 

[fulee9999]

Does the kdlitker leave much of a bezel gap when it's installed in a SF?

The only SF I have that accepts a P60 module is an old 6P, and it does look a bit wonky, the head does not tighten down fully

but then again, I did not remove the lens of the head, so you could subtract a bit if you do

but as I use it in a SLN host it doesn't really worry me

tightens and seals fully, this is how I use this host/drop-in combo


p.s.: while I was assembling the 6P with the quad host I accidentally hit the tail button and a lot of light came out of it and I got geniunely scared as to wtf is going on, because this host never in it's life ever produced this much light before

 

[Megalamuffin]

The only SF I have that accepts a P60 module is an old 6P, and it does look a bit wonky, the head does not tighten down fully

View attachment 29070

but then again, I did not remove the lens of the head, so you could subtract a bit if you do

View attachment 29071

but as I use it in a SLN host it doesn't really worry me

View attachment 29072

tightens and seals fully, this is how I use this host/drop-in combo


p.s.: while I was assembling the 6P with the quad host I accidentally hit the tail button and a lot of light came out of it and I got geniunely scared as to wtf is going on, because this host never in it's life ever produced this much light before

Thanks for the pics. That is a huge gap, too much for me, and removing the lens to make it fit better doesn't seem ideal.

 

[kerneldrop]

Thanks for the pics. That is a huge gap, too much for me, and removing the lens to make it fit better doesn't seem ideal.

This is the Malkoff quad you seek