Tad Customs E-series Bi-Pin Socket

Fuchshp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
1,065
Location
Earth
A few weeks ago I bought an E-Series Bi-Pin Socket from Tad Customs. A short time later a small box with the socket and four different bulbs arrived nicely packed. I don't know how this is possible for $3 shipping cost.

IMG_0947_zpsc8i4lk29.jpg


It's well made and works absolutly flawlessly. I'm very happy with this socket. My Surefire E2e is my EDC since I've got Tad Costoms socket.

IMG_0948_zps6ssu69tn.jpg


The bulbs come in four variants:

NameVoltAmpereLumenBattery
A37123.71.2801x LiIon
A37183.71.81401x LiIon
A72127.21.22002x LiIon (IMR)
A48124.81.21202x CR123A primaries









IMG_0952_zpscqgpqehn.jpg
 

konifans

Well-known member
CPF Supporter
Joined
Jan 1, 2015
Messages
180
Is the Olight 16340 protected? The length should be too long if it has protection PCB. I think IMR batteries (shorter, safer, higher discharge current) are recommended for this adapter.
 

Fuchshp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
1,065
Location
Earth
Good Morning Konifans

That's right Olight Protected 16340 don't work. The size is ok but they don't fire up the bulb. IMR work beautifully. It's really, really bright for an E2. Last weekend I took the E2 with the A7212 bulb with me to Tamina Canyon in Switzerland which is extremely narrow and sometimes as dark as a cave. The E2 lit up the far away ceiling beautifully. Because of the incan tint it was better than any LED.
 

DrafterDan

Well-known member
CPF Supporter
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
1,303
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I just came across these, and will order up a set with a range of bulbs to try out. It's similar to FiveMega's Strion project, but that was only for the A2 torches.

A2%20fivemega%20mod.jpg


On mine, I had to machine a thin brass spacer, the only way I could get it to work. Must just be because I've got the Koala onion ring in the head as well.

It will be interesting to see how this new item does with a standard E Elite or Defender.
 

Fuchshp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
1,065
Location
Earth
I've tested the selection of Tad Customs bulbs for some time now. I like the A7212 bulb best. It is made for 2x LiIon, 7.2v / 1.2A, and puts out 200 lumen. The good thing about it is that it can also be used with 1x LiIon as a dim light. And it can be used with 2x CR123A primaries. The output is somewhere in the middle. Until now not one of my Tad Customs bulbs failed.

People say that underdriven bulbs have a shorter lifetime. Why is this so?
 

chillinn

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
1,475
I am so envious. Thanks for posting, you've made me want an E series even more.
 

konifans

Well-known member
CPF Supporter
Joined
Jan 1, 2015
Messages
180
I've tested the selection of Tad Customs bulbs for some time now. I like the A7212 bulb best. It is made for 2x LiIon, 7.2v / 1.2A, and puts out 200 lumen. The good thing about it is that it can also be used with 1x LiIon as a dim light. And it can be used with 2x CR123A primaries. The output is somewhere in the middle. Until now not one of my Tad Customs bulbs failed.

People say that underdriven bulbs have a shorter lifetime. Why is this so?
To under drive a bulb, the lifetime will be very very very long!!:laughing: It never :poof:
 

ma tumba

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2013
Messages
1,341
Location
Russia
People say that underdriven bulbs have a shorter lifetime. Why is this so?
If a bulb is underdriven then the so called halogen cycle would be less efficient in getting evaporated tungsten back to the hot wire. I am not sure that this would really have the wire to die faster but this definitely leads to a faster formation of the black tungsten deposit on the inner glass surface
 
Last edited:

labrat

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2006
Messages
388
I just came across these, and will order up a set with a range of bulbs to try out. It's similar to FiveMega's Strion project, but that was only for the A2 torches.

A2%20fivemega%20mod.jpg


On mine, I had to machine a thin brass spacer, the only way I could get it to work. Must just be because I've got the Koala onion ring in the head as well.

It will be interesting to see how this new item does with a standard E Elite or Defender.


Fivemega made adapters for Bi-Pin bulbs for Surefire A2 as well as Surefire E1/E2 torches.
These 2 torches (E1/E2 and A2) are very different!
These 2 different adapters does not interchange without modifications!
And they can take many other bulbs than Strion bulbs!
The adapters for Surefire E1Elite heads and the old Surefire e1 drophead heads were also different.
 
Last edited:

novice

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
998
Labrat,
I did not communicate what I wanted to, clearly, at all. I was trying to allude to Fivemega's previous E2 bulb adapter, and it's similarity in function to Tad custom's current E2 adapter. I muddled that up, and should have completely left the reference to the A2 out of my quote. Thank you for the clarification! I was also completely unaware of two different types of adapter for the E1.
 

chillinn

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
1,475
If a bulb is underdriven then the so called halogen cycle would be less efficient in getting evaporated tungsten back to the hot wire. I am not sure that this would really have the wire to die faster but this definitely leads to a faster formation of the black tungsten deposit on the inner glass surface

The E I want to build will have modes, so the lamp may be rated for specifically only the high mode, but its likely the lower modes will be used more often longer.

I wonder if there is a middle ground somewhere with type of use and when with H-bulbs, such that when they are new, if the practice is to "burn them in," drive them correctly or overdrive them for a period, the effect may be (idk, wishing, hoping here) such that then when underdriving them there is less yucky deposits on the glass blocking the light.

I can't wait to find out for myself! :) Soon... er... some day... er... eventually... (what's holding me up is I don't just want any ol' E).
 

Bimmerboy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2004
Messages
1,964
Location
Long Island, NY
Thanks for posting this thread, Fuchshp. I'm quite interested in this item for an E2E.

Looking forward to hearing more about this setup from any owners, especially with the 7212 and 3718 bulbs.

Thoughts on fit and finish, brightness, bulb focus, beam quality, etc. are much appreciated!
 

chillinn

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
1,475
Since posting I picked up an E1e-BK off WTS (ty KennyC !!), which came with the stock MN01. I ordered and received an E-socket from Tad. I also picked up a LightSaver Miser tailcap (but the PWM is bad). Subsequently, though not looking for one, I found a deal on a custom bored E2E-HA w/ reversible clip, copper shroud & McClicky on eBay that was too good to pass up, but it didn't come with a lamp.

Love the E-socket and A3712 bipin lamps for 4.2V, which still give a nice lower output using 3V CR123A. Using AW IMR 16340 15C cells, I find that the light is too bright for nighttime use. I had intended to use the LightSaver moded tailcap, but found the PWM (which I can't see btw) to be intolerable. So I have been using 16340 only for daytime use, and swapping in CR123A for nighttime use, only using the Z61 tailcap.

When the bored E2E arrived, without a lamp, I decided to use my only Tad E-socket (intending to get more soon) with 18650 with it and use primaries in the E1e with the MN01, so I would have 2 compete and functional E-series lights until I get another E-socket.

But each morning, I found myself wanting to carry a brighter E1e, and so was swapping the E-socket back in the E1e with 16340.

Well, can you guess how I screwed up?

This morning when I swapped in the 16340, I forgot to swap in the E-socket which was still in the E2E. That poor MN01 breathed its last in a fraction of a second. :'(

When able, I'll be ordering TWO MORE E-sockets, even though I don't have a third E yet, to anticipate and also reduce the probability of screwing up again (because I will likely acquire more MN01 lamps that will come along with more E1e acquisitions).

So I have lost an MN01, and I'm back to one functional E-series light. What I have gained, however, is the wisdom that running CR123A primaries is perfectly valid, considering they are safer to run empty, they're triple the capacity of 16340, and Titanium Innovations CR123A (which selfbuilt himself uses) can be had from Battery Junction for just under a buck each in bulk with free ship. Even though the E1e is not regulated, I find that on CR123A the output is very constant for over an hour before it drops off.

I did not expect that running 16340's would be so bright! I think it is brighter than my incan A2 (also with Tad A2-socket w/ underdriven A4812 bipin lamp and 2x16340 8C). I also didn't expect the LightSaver incan PWM to bother me, but I can't tolerate it for more than a few minutes before I start to feel the brain-ache coming. Using a moded tailcap with 16340 was all part of the plan, for reduced brightness and increased runtime. But unless someone develops and offers a CC moded incan E-series tailcap, my E1e modes will be battery-driven only.
 
Last edited:

konifans

Well-known member
CPF Supporter
Joined
Jan 1, 2015
Messages
180
Since posting I picked up an E1e-BK off WTS (ty KennyC !!), which came with the stock MN01. I ordered and received an E-socket from Tad. I also picked up a LightSaver Miser tailcap (but the PWM is bad). Subsequently, though not looking for one, I found a deal on a custom bored E2E-HA w/ reversible clip, copper shroud & McClicky on eBay that was too good to pass up, but it didn't come with a lamp.

Love the E-socket and A3712 bipin lamps for 4.2V, which still give a nice lower output using 3V CR123A. Using AW IMR 16340 15C cells, I find that the light is too bright for nighttime use. I had intended to use the LightSaver moded tailcap, but found the PWM (which I can't see btw) to be intolerable. So I have been using 16340 only for daytime use, and swapping in CR123A for nighttime use, only using the Z61 tailcap.

When the bored E2E arrived, without a lamp, I decided to use my only Tad E-socket (intending to get more soon) with 18650 with it and use primaries in the E1e with the MN01, so I would have 2 compete and functional E-series lights until I get another E-socket.

But each morning, I found myself wanting to carry a brighter E1e, and so was swapping the E-socket back in the E1e with 16340.

Well, can you guess how I screwed up?

This morning when I swapped in the 16340, I forgot to swap in the E-socket which was still in the E2E. That poor MN01 breathed its last in a fraction of a second. :'(

When able, I'll be ordering TWO MORE E-sockets, even though I don't have a third E yet, to anticipate and also reduce the probability of screwing up again (because I will likely acquire more MN01 lamps that will come along with more E1e acquisitions).

So I have lost an MN01, and I'm back to one functional E-series light. What I have gained, however, is the wisdom that running CR123A primaries is perfectly valid, considering they are safer to run empty, they're triple the capacity of 16340, and Titanium Innovations CR123A (which selfbuilt himself uses) can be had from Battery Junction for just under a buck each in bulk with free ship. Even though the E1e is not regulated, I find that on CR123A the output is very constant for over an hour before it drops off.

I did not expect that running 16340's would be so bright! I think it is brighter than my incan A2 (also with Tad A2-socket w/ underdriven A4812 bipin lamp and 2x16340 8C). I also didn't expect the LightSaver incan PWM to bother me, but I can't tolerate it for more than a few minutes before I start to feel the brain-ache coming. Using a moded tailcap with 16340 was all part of the plan, for reduced brightness and increased runtime. But unless someone develops and offers a CC moded incan E-series tailcap, my E1e modes will be battery-driven only.
:D I think it is better to get one more E1 or E2... in different color! I killed my MN02 in the similar case...
 

vicv

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 22, 2013
Messages
1,256
Location
Southern Ontario
Unfortunately there's no such thing as current controlled Incan. They're controlled by voltage and pwm. Hopefully tad will have his 3V bulb available soon. Want to try it in a minimag
 

chillinn

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
1,475
Unfortunately there's no such thing as current controlled Incan. They're controlled by voltage and pwm. Hopefully tad will have his 3V bulb available soon. Want to try it in a minimag

edited post:
ugh, realized my post is way too off topic, don't want to mess up this thread. It deserves better. I'll post a new thread... hope you don't mind vivc, I'm taking your quote along with me for the new thread.
 
Last edited:
Top