Continuing on my quest to find a light to spot address numbers / street signs from my car, I thought about the Space Needle II. I think that may be what im looking for, and it's got the perfect form factor! I do know that they are discontinued, so Id like to try to make my own. Id like to know everything there is to know about how to construct one myself, all the parts involved, step by step instructions if possible. Also, what is this hotlips product? Is there something available to make the SNII easier to construct? I guess that ultimate problem is finding a good 5 watter.
Tell me all there is to know about the SNII!!
- Thread starter ResQTech
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Rothrandir
Flashaholic
well, the "space needle" name is trademarked to charlie i'm afraid /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
making a 5w mag mod is actually very simple. anyone with a soldering iron can do it.
if using a hotlips:
there are two ways to go about electrical connection. the besy way is to remove the mag switch assembly and solder directly onto the contacts. or, the hotlips can also be made to work with the switch assembly in place. to do this, electrical connection is either accomplished via a modded pr base, or you can use a dowel of appropriate size to ensure positive connection, and solder the negative wire onto the negatative tail of the switch.
after that, run the wires through the hotlips, apply thermal epoxy around it, and insert it into the mag.
after it's all down, adhere the emitter to the heatsink, and after it's cured, solder the 2 wires onto their respective leads.
a very simple, yet effective mod /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
making a 5w mag mod is actually very simple. anyone with a soldering iron can do it.
if using a hotlips:
there are two ways to go about electrical connection. the besy way is to remove the mag switch assembly and solder directly onto the contacts. or, the hotlips can also be made to work with the switch assembly in place. to do this, electrical connection is either accomplished via a modded pr base, or you can use a dowel of appropriate size to ensure positive connection, and solder the negative wire onto the negatative tail of the switch.
after that, run the wires through the hotlips, apply thermal epoxy around it, and insert it into the mag.
after it's all down, adhere the emitter to the heatsink, and after it's cured, solder the 2 wires onto their respective leads.
a very simple, yet effective mod /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Thanks for the reply Roth! Some more questions:
- How do you ensure the emmiter is centered?
- Do I need thermal epoxy for anything?
- Im planning on hosting it in a mag 2c, run with 3x123's. Should I use a circuit of some sort or DD? If so which one?
Im sure Ill have more questions, but for now that's all!
- How do you ensure the emmiter is centered?
- Do I need thermal epoxy for anything?
- Im planning on hosting it in a mag 2c, run with 3x123's. Should I use a circuit of some sort or DD? If so which one?
Im sure Ill have more questions, but for now that's all!
Rothrandir
Flashaholic
the hotlips have a built in centering-stand. just put the emitter smack-dab on the stand (same diameter as the luxeon), and it will be centered /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
yes, thermal epoxy holds the hotlips in the mag securely, and holds the emitter on the hotlips securly.
curcuit or dd is up to you. i generally prefer dd, since it's $20 cheaper, but again, it depends on you.
dd will be brighter, but dropoff.
curcuitry won't be as bright to begin with, but it will have a steadier output, and eventually (shouldn't take too long) catch up to the dd brightness.
if you do decide to use curcuitry, a downboy is your best bet. either db700 or db1000, depending on availability. db1000 will be the brighter of the two of course. db700 runs pretty much at specs.
yes, thermal epoxy holds the hotlips in the mag securely, and holds the emitter on the hotlips securly.
curcuit or dd is up to you. i generally prefer dd, since it's $20 cheaper, but again, it depends on you.
dd will be brighter, but dropoff.
curcuitry won't be as bright to begin with, but it will have a steadier output, and eventually (shouldn't take too long) catch up to the dd brightness.
if you do decide to use curcuitry, a downboy is your best bet. either db700 or db1000, depending on availability. db1000 will be the brighter of the two of course. db700 runs pretty much at specs.
Beretta1526
Flashlight Enthusiast
I just built one with a 5W high dome using 3 123's and a U3U white LED. I'm getting just short of 5000 Lux, but the 3D I built with a SWAM LxIII last week is brighter and perfect for just that type of thing. It also cuts through the fog and drizzle like a knife.
I would consider doing a Luxeon III rather than a 5W as you will have a tighter spot (unless the 5W is a side emitter).
I would consider doing a Luxeon III rather than a 5W as you will have a tighter spot (unless the 5W is a side emitter).
Beretta1526
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
MR Bulk said:
If using a 5W, make sure the Vf bin code is from a "U" or deeper (in the alphabet), otherwise you should run just a touch of resistance.
Ask me how I know...
[/ QUOTE ]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
What he said...
MR Bulk said:
If using a 5W, make sure the Vf bin code is from a "U" or deeper (in the alphabet), otherwise you should run just a touch of resistance.
Ask me how I know...
[/ QUOTE ]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
What he said...
Icebreak
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
Beretta1526 said:
[ QUOTE ]
MR Bulk said:
If using a 5W, make sure the Vf bin code is from a "U" or deeper (in the alphabet), otherwise you should run just a touch of resistance.
Ask me how I know...
[/ QUOTE ]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
What he said...
[/ QUOTE ]
"Ask me how I know..."
That was worth logging in for.
Beretta1526 said:
[ QUOTE ]
MR Bulk said:
If using a 5W, make sure the Vf bin code is from a "U" or deeper (in the alphabet), otherwise you should run just a touch of resistance.
Ask me how I know...
[/ QUOTE ]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
What he said...
[/ QUOTE ]
"Ask me how I know..."
That was worth logging in for.
So the 3 watt emmiters are the way to go eh? Well that'll save some $$$, although ill probably be spending more for a circuit to drive the LS? Mr. Bulk, what's your take on the 3w vs 5w? Beretta, any outdoor beam shots you can show me of that LxIII vs the 5w? I was told the 3w throws farther but has a smaller spot than the 5w, how how small is this spot?
Rothrandir
Flashaholic
you don't really need a curcuit with the 3w either, if you use a 3d or 3c maglite. dd works great for these /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Beretta1526
Flashlight Enthusiast
MTFD17, (BTW: sent you a PM)
It would take a great deal of finageling for beam shots, but maybe I can do that some time. In the meantime, we have a shed out in the woods that is roughly 50 -75 yards out. The 5W makes a spot that is about 15'-18' wide, and is not terribly bright. The LxIII makes a spot about 7'-8' wide and is probably twice as bright, which would make sense as I'm getting at least double the candela out of it.
In closer (25-30 yards), the LxIII is brighter as well. The size of the spot on the 5W is smaller, but is now only about 10' where the LxIII is now about 4'.
If anyone has a more precise example or beam shots similar to what I've explained, do step in.
Something I did as a control, I took a straight Mag 2D and focused it to the smallest spot onto the shed. The spot is about the same size as the LxIII and is roughly the same brightness. The incandescent beam is very yellow and picks up a great deal of the moisture in the air and reflects it back, so it's not as easy to see where the LxIII seems to cut through it. I tried it all against the SF M6, but it trounced everything.
It would take a great deal of finageling for beam shots, but maybe I can do that some time. In the meantime, we have a shed out in the woods that is roughly 50 -75 yards out. The 5W makes a spot that is about 15'-18' wide, and is not terribly bright. The LxIII makes a spot about 7'-8' wide and is probably twice as bright, which would make sense as I'm getting at least double the candela out of it.
In closer (25-30 yards), the LxIII is brighter as well. The size of the spot on the 5W is smaller, but is now only about 10' where the LxIII is now about 4'.
If anyone has a more precise example or beam shots similar to what I've explained, do step in.
Something I did as a control, I took a straight Mag 2D and focused it to the smallest spot onto the shed. The spot is about the same size as the LxIII and is roughly the same brightness. The incandescent beam is very yellow and picks up a great deal of the moisture in the air and reflects it back, so it's not as easy to see where the LxIII seems to cut through it. I tried it all against the SF M6, but it trounced everything.
Beretta1526
Flashlight Enthusiast
ALSO,
Something that makes the 3W more of a focused beam is the fact that the LED has only one die in it and a reflector has a better chance of directing all the output since it's more concentrated to begin with. The 5W has 4 dies in it and they cover at least 6x the surface area of a 1W or LxIII die does. A much deeper and/or larger reflector is needed to re-direct all that light in a 5W.
Mr.Bulk is really the expert with all this. If he should correct anything I've said, HE is right. I hope I don't need /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif!
Something that makes the 3W more of a focused beam is the fact that the LED has only one die in it and a reflector has a better chance of directing all the output since it's more concentrated to begin with. The 5W has 4 dies in it and they cover at least 6x the surface area of a 1W or LxIII die does. A much deeper and/or larger reflector is needed to re-direct all that light in a 5W.
Mr.Bulk is really the expert with all this. If he should correct anything I've said, HE is right. I hope I don't need /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif!
Well then, first of all you misspelled "Berreta"! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Actually for beam coverage I still like the 5W when using the same light hosts (Mags) out to a reasonable distance (maybe 50 yards max), and if I really need to see something way off in the distance, the L3 is it.
Actually for beam coverage I still like the 5W when using the same light hosts (Mags) out to a reasonable distance (maybe 50 yards max), and if I really need to see something way off in the distance, the L3 is it.
Rothrandir
Flashaholic
that's what i'd do /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
or get a 3c mag for the lux3.
or get a 3c mag for the lux3.
Beretta1526
Flashlight Enthusiast
3 C cells will fit into the 2D body, but you have to make some sort of arrangement for the spring/contact in the tailcap. It's a relatively simple process.
I agree with Charlie too. For intermediate (under 50 yards - we're sick...) the 5W will give a much broader beam pattern that is more usable, but when you need to toss some photons, the LxIII really reaches out there.
As for the Mag 2C, that should be quite interesting. It will be quite a lightweight unit with some power. If it had a faceted reflector and UCL, it would be even better!
I agree with Charlie too. For intermediate (under 50 yards - we're sick...) the 5W will give a much broader beam pattern that is more usable, but when you need to toss some photons, the LxIII really reaches out there.
As for the Mag 2C, that should be quite interesting. It will be quite a lightweight unit with some power. If it had a faceted reflector and UCL, it would be even better!
