The Malkoff Front Porch

[marco.weiss]

interesting.
I think this also prevents the battery from hitting the dropin hard in case of falls...
I prefer this barrier to be on the tailcap as mcclicky is more fragile than dropin which is practically bullet proof.

 

[Slumber]

I damaged an M61HOT with a drop on the bezel before. The optic popped off and Gene said the whole assembly had come loose. He replaced it under warranty of course. I imagine the lip on the 21700 body helps prevent this kind of failure.

 

[marco.weiss]

damn it. it must have been a heavy fall.
thankfully the malkoff service and guarantee are exemplary.

 

[Hemicrusher]

Always wanted a Malkoff, so I purchased an MD2, with the standard M61. Very impressed with the build and overall quality.

I have a bunch of other "enthusiast" lights like the Emiser D4V2, Noctigon KR4, Convoy, Lumintop, Oveready, and Peak LED. So, even though I had the option of switching the M61 for the M61N, I opted for the M61 with the 5,700k SST-20. Anyhow, pretty impressed with it, and was surprised that I really don't see any green tint even compared to my SW45K lights. Also, colors look really good even though the CRI is around 70.

I do have a question. Does the MD2 accept P60 drop-ins from other manufactures besides Malkoff? I keep hearing conflicting info.

Well, here she is, straight from Malkoff.

 

[Dicaeopolis]

I have a Sportac drop in I wasn't using. I popped it in a MD2 head and body. It works fine. No rattle or anything. I can't say for sure about others.

 

[thermal guy]

If your a incandescent fan I have run P60/P90’s in mine before and some lumen factory as well. Works great.

 

[greatscoot]

Always wanted a Malkoff, so I purchased an MD2, with the standard M61. Very impressed with the build and overall quality.

I have a bunch of other "enthusiast" lights like the Emiser D4V2, Noctigon KR4, Convoy, Lumintop, Oveready, and Peak LED. So, even though I had the option of switching the M61 for the M61N, I opted for the M61 with the 5,700k SST-20. Anyhow, pretty impressed with it, and was surprised that I really don't see any green tint even compared to my SW45K lights. Also, colors look really good even though the CRI is around 70.

I do have a question. Does the MD2 accept P60 drop-ins from other manufactures besides Malkoff? I keep hearing conflicting info.

Well, here she is, straight from Malkoff.

View attachment 16633

I don't think there is a hard fast rule about other drop-ins fitting the head. Some will and some won't, also, you may have to open up the aluminum locking ring for some.

 

[dotCPF]

What GS said, most will fit fine, some don't need the ring, some do, some will need it modified. Easy to do with a drill! I have one "widened" aluminum ring for this purpose. Can't remember where that ended up though....

The Malkoff heads are generally pretty large in diameter as far as P60/ D26 dropins goes. I would be curious to hear if one DIDN'T work. (you may need to also add a spring to some that don't have it, for some reason I have found this can randomly matter or maybe I just had a momentary lapse of reason)

 

[Robot Mania FU]

In case anyone was still on the fence about the 21700 body.....I was just curious so I weighed two fully assembled lights. (md2 w/ tricap m61w in a 16.5 crenelated bezel and a keeppower 3500mAh 18650 vs 21700 body with the same head/insert and a 5000mAh keeppower 21700). The fully assembled md2 weighed 6.51oz's and the fully assembled 21700 with same head/insert weighed 7.04oz's. Both the size, and weight difference are fairly negligible. I'm interested to see how much run time will differ, but so far I can't see any negatives other than the fact everyone already has 18650's and might not have a stockpile of 21700's.

 

[knucklegary]

^ or might not want to start a stock pile of 21700 cells

 

[ledbetter]

Has anybody had a hi/lo switch not work? Have one I got direct from malkoff a while back and it doesn’t do low. Could resistor been bad? I assume they’re tested…

 

[thermal guy]

Has anybody had a hi/lo switch not work? Have one I got direct from malkoff a while back and it doesn’t do low. Could resistor been bad? I assume they’re tested…

check the anodizing on the threads in the head.I had one do this and it was because I had worn the anodizing off the threads. I work in a very harsh environment. the threads must be insulated for the hi/low switch to work.

 

[ledbetter]

Thanks tg, so there’s no way to fix it? Just be happy with it as a one level?

 

[thermal guy]

Well not sure if that’s whats wrong with it. That’s one thing to check for. Do you have a volt meter?

 

[ledbetter]

I swapped heads and it works fine. The old head is the problem so any solution for loss of ano?

 

[thermal guy]

Teflon tape might work. I just put mine on another host and use it for high only

 

[ledbetter]

Ha! You’re right, Teflon tape does work. It’s a little messy trying to change batteries, and it might get torn up twisting hi/lo so much it doesn’t work, but it is a Mcgyver fix it for now.

 

[Hemicrusher]

Malkoff just added more MDC HA 1CR123s in SST20 4k if anyone was looking.

 

[etc]

In case anyone was still on the fence about the 21700 body.....I was just curious so I weighed two fully assembled lights. (md2 w/ tricap m61w in a 16.5 crenelated bezel and a keeppower 3500mAh 18650 vs 21700 body with the same head/insert and a 5000mAh keeppower 21700). The fully assembled md2 weighed 6.51oz's and the fully assembled 21700 with same head/insert weighed 7.04oz's. Both the size, and weight difference are fairly negligible. I'm interested to see how much run time will differ, but so far I can't see any negatives other than the fact everyone already has 18650's and might not have a stockpile of 21700's.

please post the runtime difference.

 

[thermal guy]

I’m starting to do some test with mine just ran my WM361 on low for 105 hours. Was still going when I shut her down. plenty of light to use in the dark if need be even at that point.