The Malkoff Front Porch

Owen

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There are a lot of different types of potting compounds. Some will hold in heat and that isn't good. Thermal epoxy will pull the heat away from the electronics keeping the led and driver cool, pulling the heat in the body of the light. Malkoff uses thermal epoxy. Cloud told me that potting can cause the heat to build up and act like an insulator trapping heat inside. Doesn't sound like thermal epoxy to me. I could say more, but I will leave it there.
Oh, please continue.
I'd enjoy hearing how thermal potting isn't thermally conductive, and thermal epoxy actively "pulls" heat away from electronics🤣
 

kerneldrop

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Oh, please continue.
I'd enjoy hearing how thermal potting isn't thermally conductive, and thermal epoxy actively "pulls" heat away from electronics🤣

I trap heat by JB Welding the threads, adding non-shrink 100yr guarantee silicone to both sides of the lens seal, and coating the entire flashlight in Flex Seal liquid. It's like a Snuggie for a flashlight.

When the battery goes out I responsibly recycle them next to the Tesla batteries and order another one. Hard-Use 1%er lifestyle isn't cheap.
 

kerneldrop

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whats the difference between the MDC 16650 and MD2 UV lights
is it just the size?.
what do you have as a malkoff UV?
can a ZWB filter can fit the 16650?
....also is a h/l ring switch needed for md2 for the brightness?

all this for home use.
thanks.

A follow up to my prior post. The glass on the MD2 is 26.5mm in diameter. So a 26.5 UV filter should fit between the lens and the bezel.

I looked at my MDC and the bezel does unscrew....I'm not sure if there's enough thread length to put a filter between the MDC lens and bezel.
I don't have a MDC bezel tool to remove it and see.
 

Cree XHP 70 LED

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kerneldrop

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knucklegary

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I think a member here, a long time ago, did tests.. Wrapped drop-in with copper or Aluminum tape for a snug fit. The trails showed no significant drop in temps after heat sinking.
 

dotCPF

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If I'm concerned with heat transfer I tightly wrap in Al foil. Not much of an issue though for most anything Malkoff- except maybe the V6 Wildcats that were known to run a bit hot if left on for long periods of time.

That being said, I don't wrap any of my Malkoff's. The Brass construction is super thick, far greater ratio than any other standard P60 reflector based dropin, and I have also noticed that as a result of this design and quality, greater heat sinking is largely unnecessary for Malkoff products.

Gene and the Malkoff team take care in the fundamentals of design and implementation of LED tech to make sure everything runs well, not just max-stat. One of the main reasons Malkoff Devices will always be my favorite flashlight brand and company. And always a go-to. ALL of my backups and bugouts involve a Malkoff.
 

bykfixer

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Heat disipation also matters once it has left a module. Example would be a Rayovac Indestructable 2aa with a Malkoff M31 in it.

Using that inside the stock rubberized head for example it stands to reason the heat transfer is nowhere near as efficient than same light with a metal head.

Couple the module to the metal head via metal conductor like copper foil and perhaps that enhances disipation even better that leaving an air gap between the two objects.

Add cooling fins in the design of the head and perhaps it gets still better. But it does begin at the source of the heat no doubt.
 

dotCPF

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+1 bykfixer

I likewise also take care to not load a "hotter" module in something like a Nitrolon G2, which exceeds known limits. So as long as you know the materials, in other words, is a great point to make clear :)
 

Cree XHP 70 LED

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@ kerneldrop... I usually pour molten gold or copper into the gap usually. 😆

A while back Gene told me that the blood running through your viens is great for pulling heat from the light. Of course it's true, but the blood part made me laugh. I found even when I had the V6 Wildcat it would be fine just holding it and walking for an hour. However, if I set it on a desk with no fan, good bye lens. Hot fast. I never melted mine but other people have.
 

kerneldrop

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@ kerneldrop... I usually pour molten gold or copper into the gap usually. 😆

from melting gold to trading crypto to sending lumens... we never take off the copper fits
Stay ready at all times

51821465132_d3c2d07db0.jpg
 

kerneldrop

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also does an M61 in an Md2 need anything like copper tape wrapped around the drop in for better heat transfer ?
thanks.

I was just joking when I asked about filling up the space for optimal heat transfer.

The only time I wrap a Malkoff Drop-in is when the ID on the non-Malkoff host body is a bit too large, or in the case of the VME…when the E body needs a little bit more help to reach the drop-in for the negative circuit…in that case a wavy washer thing that Malkoff has works 100% of the time. if I didn’t have that wavy washer I would just use foil. In both cases I’m only looking to improve contact, not transfer heat.
 
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