The Malkoff Front Porch

bigburly912

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Us extreme hard-users need the 17mm opening to protect the lens from strikes during our daily use.
Wish that worked for me. I've broke two lenses now just from side impact. Can't explain it, have no clue how. Two drops two breaks. And yes I have the rings on both sides of the lenses. Like I said freak accident. I need to be an anvil tester.
 

ilikeguns40

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Wish that worked for me. I've broke two lenses now just from side impact. Can't explain it, have no clue how. Two drops two breaks. And yes I have the rings on both sides of the lenses. Like I said freak accident. I need to be an anvil tester.
That had to be a very hard impact to break those plastic lenses
 

bigburly912

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That had to be a very hard impact to break those plastic lenses
Or a bad lens. This last time it literally fell off my gun case onto tile.

Let me edit this to say Malkoff is my favorite brand of all time and I am in no way bashing. Just something off the wall that's happened twice in who even knows how many years of ownership with dozens of different Malkoff products.
 

QMT93

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Jun 4, 2019
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@kerneldrop thanks for the suggestion! Could you elaborate on the washer idea a bit? I'm still not sure how that would look.

@ilikeguns40 and @Dicaeopolis thanks for the battery recommendation! Yes, I agree on the 3V limit. Reviews also confirmed that only a CR123 will provide full output in the Streamlight 1L-1AA. I was wondering if the MDC HA might offer the best of both worlds: potted electronics, lifetime warranty, AND capability to run on widely available primaries.

@LEDphile thanks for the clarification!
 

ilikeguns40

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For the MDC heads, If you want the most battery configuration setups I will recommend the new 3.7-9v li-ion heads. It's up to you to decide which body you will want. A single CR123 primary will work, but with lower outputs. 2xAA body for example will run two regular 1.5v AAs (with lower output) or two 3.7v 14500s

The 2-3.2v heads would require several bodies in order to utilize more battery configurations. Also, may need custom battery adapters/dummies and sleeves.
 
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Dicaeopolis

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Nope. The M31 uses a boost converter, which means that the battery voltage must be lower than the ~3.2V of the LED. So a 14500 will fry the LED in an M31, but a CR123, or one or 2 AA batteries (a single L91 or a pair of NiMH work well) are fine. But for a 14500 in that same host, you could use an M61 (which uses a stepdown converter).
Lol. Just thought about that. I guess there's a reason I don't keep 14500s around only NIMH.
 

QMT93

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For the MDC heads, If you want the most battery configuration setups I will recommend the new 3.7-9v li-ion heads. It's up to you to decide which body you will want. A single CR123 primary will work, but with lower outputs. 2xAA body for example will run two regular 1.5v AAs (with lower output) or two 3.7v 14500s

The 2-3.2v heads would require several bodies in order to utilize more battery configurations. Also, may need custom battery adapters/dummies and sleeves.
The thing is, I'm trying to see if I can get with one body and one head for three types of battery, similarly to the Streamlight 1L-1AA. I have the M61HOT running 21700, so the setup I'm trying to make leans more towards primary cells.
 

ilikeguns40

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The thing is, I'm trying to see if I can get with one body and one head for three types of battery, similarly to the Streamlight 1L-1AA. I have the M61HOT running 21700, so the setup I'm trying to make leans more towards primary cells.
I agree. I tried also and best setup scenario for me is the 16650 body. I can still utilize one or two CR123 primaries with that.

Second option would be for Gene to redesign his driver so it's roughly a .8-4.5v or similar voltage driver so that any primary or any li-ion will work, but I don't think that's gonna happen
 

thermal guy

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Jan 28, 2007
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"Second option would be for Gene to redesign his driver so it's roughly a .8-4.5v or similar voltage driver so that any primary or any li-ion will work, but I don't think that's gonna happen"

he's already done that😁 The M30
1-5.5 volts.
 

ilikeguns40

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"Second option would be for Gene to redesign his driver so it's roughly a .8-4.5v or similar voltage driver so that any primary or any li-ion will work, but I don't think that's gonna happen"

he's already done that😁 The M30
1-5.5 volts.
That's definitely before my time of being introduced to Malkoff haha! I missed that one. That would be nice to own, I wonder why he don't use those voltages anymore?
 

aznsx

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Apr 24, 2015
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Wish that worked for me. I've broke two lenses now just from side impact. Can't explain it, have no clue how. Two drops two breaks. And yes I have the rings on both sides of the lenses. Like I said freak accident. I need to be an anvil tester.
Hard to imagine breaking two 'plastic' lenses (but I certainly do believe you).

I think if that happened to me, I might look for something (perhaps) better than stock. I know 'flashlightlens' has a variety of acrylic lens choices, but have no idea if any match that size.
 

aznsx

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Can I use the MDC TAC CR123 with AA or AAA in the 1CR123 body, similarly to the Streamlight 1L-1AA?
For a 'production' light, that 1L-1AA is unique, because there are very tight patents on it. I've read them. That's why you don't see more of that.

For the record, SL does not advertise compatibility w/ AAA, although I realize some get them to work. Run time is probably not good though.

Reviews also confirmed that only a CR123 will provide full output in the Streamlight 1L-1AA.

There are 3 options for it, however. I use LFP16340 (aka: LFP123A) for a rechargeable option that provides max output. No need for 'reviewers' regarding the output levels though. Remember, this is SL; they provide 'real' FL1-compliant performance specs. Not to mention this:

Screen Shot 2023-09-24 at 4.09.46 PM.png


Just to stay on topic though, now back to Malkoff. I love my new MD2 w/ choice of an M61N or M61 SHO for it, and 'hi-low' ring. Now I may have to check out an MDC for something a bit smaller, as soon as my limited budget recovers.
 

QMT93

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@ilikeguns40 Thanks for the info! What head do you run on the 16650?

@thermal guy wow! I started reading about the M30 from your comment. I guess I can email Gene and ask:grin2:. Would an MDC head turn on if powered by an AA, or AAA? Doesn't have to be full power, as long as it turns on and stays on for a bit.

@aznsx I agree with you. And wow, now that you mention another battery type, I'm even more impressed with the 1L-1AA. What do you think the voltage of the 1L-1AA is? If, for instance, it is up to 3V, which is about the same as that of many MDC heads, that would mean can use 1AA, 1AAA, or 1CR123 for an MDC head. Glad you're enjoying the M61N/SHO MD2. It is bigger than an MDC, but I think the battery capacity and monetary saving are worth it, especially when you use your light on low ;).
 

aznsx

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What do you think the voltage of the 1L-1AA is?

SL doesn't really do the 'modular' thing with their lights (standard configuration), and do not generally provide an 'input voltage' range as it's not really necessary, since they only specify compatible 'standard' cell types, which are of known voltage range. Clearly it's fine w/ 3V 16x34 cells (and LFP 3.2V are fine, but NOT 3.7V 16340), and 1.5V 14x50 cells. I don't know about a 3V 14x50 cell, for example, only that they do not advertise such compatibility.

And wow, now that you mention another battery type, I'm even more impressed with the 1L-1AA.

Yeah, and it's even more impressive considering it has a Borofloat lens, plus a 'real' FL1 2-meter impact rating, Ten-Tap UI options, I've never heard of anyone 'breaking' one yet, and they sell for $44. Very cool light.

I dig my new MD2, but generally carry '1L' size lights for pocket carry size/format (often an Elzetta Alpha or similar), which is why I'm interested in the MDC to 'go with' the MD2. Quite often, size (together with output) are higher priority to me than run time.
 
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