Taller boots are available, but they're no thicker so the engagement point of the switch remains the same - just more boot that has to be compressed.Does anyone know if I can get an extra thick boot for a malkoff mcclicky so the switch stands a little above the tailcap shroud?
Taller boots are available, but they're no thicker so the engagement point of the switch remains the same - just more boot that has to be compressed.
One of these days I'm going to take a Malkoff tailcap and turn it down into a semi-shrouded configuration...
So with a taller boot it would just have more slack/air gap before it activated, and not increase sensitivity of the switch?
With the taller boot you could try adding material inside the boot to make it "thicker" and engage the switch with a normal amount of press. It's a balancing act though, my experiments with this resulted in an overly-sensitive switch. Also, I'd want whatever I added inside the boot permanently attached so it can't move/shift.
The problem isn't the boot, it's simply the primary disadvantage of fully shrouded tailcaps: accessing the switch with the thumb with an ice pick grip is difficult at best, and totally impossible to operate the light with a syringe grip.
I really don't either. I'll admit my Elzetta Alpha switch is super-quiet, so I guess they at least ship what they preach. Some of mine do in fact click very loudly, and often there is a 'ringing' resonance sound from the internal spring as well; however, I too have more important things to lose sleep over though!Don’t forget those who want a completely silent switch so as not to give your location away. I really don’t get that one.
When things get serious, I'll be in 'momentary-on' mode anyway, and all my lights are silent in that mode of operation. I agree though, if going for 'maintained-on', timing would be everything! Most 'maintained-on' operations click twice, and they'd ideally never even hear the second clickThe trick is timing the click with dropping of the hammer
For decades, this has been one of the most debated flashlight 'issues' I can think of. There have always been several 'schools of thought' among LE, tac-ops, and defensive users re: tailcap switches.
A) Some want only momentary-contact switches. B) Some want 2-stage momentary / maintained-on switches. The latter insist that 'momentary' actuation be very easy, while ensuring that 'maintained' operation is almost impossible to occur unintentionally, which means it must involve some difficulty, or deliberate intent to actuate; sufficiently long 'travel', higher pressure (effort), and often less exposure (more 'shrouding').
It's just another part of selecting a light that suits one's own needs / preferences. All variants are out there. If one bought every light made, they probably wouldn't like about half of them.
The Malkoff design philosophy (if my MD2 is typical) embraces and is designed to satisfy 'B' requirements above (and they did it very well). It has perhaps the shortest actuator travel of any light I own for momentary activation; it could not be any shorter. The pressure is also light. I have no difficulty actuating it, even wearing gloves. Conversely, 'maintained' on requires enough 'effort' that it is very unlikely to be ever be actuated unintentionally, and for some, may involve a slight repositioning to use a different part of the thumb. It does for me, and that's exactly how I want it to be.
I've never seen (examined) or used their "tri-cap" tail. Perhaps you might find it more to your liking. It might be designed for 'group B' people who do not insist on having total insurance against accidental 'maintained' actuation.
This debate will go on forever.
...There was a member here who stripped down a std cap then used 100-180 grit wet/dry paper on a (must be) Flat surface plate
…if I could ever get Oveready to respond to one of the two e-mails I sent them two weeks ago, I think they have a solution for one of my MD2's that I want to use for a different purpose.