The Malkoff Front Porch

I would run those drop ins with a 3v CR123 primary with reduced output for the expense of high lumens and have longer runtimes. Those newer drivers are better fit for multiple li-ions

I've found if you wanna run a single li-ion, a 14500/AA body and Vapcell F12 1250mah is the way to go with the new drivers. You'll get longer runtimes while still keeping the light small and a AA battery will power that driver and act as a single mode 30 lumen light
What kind of runtime do you think it gets roughly on 1 aa @30 lumens?
 
I didn't specifically measure the output. Just a rough idea. I let one run onetime in my living room and it was well lit after an hour and I had stuff to do so I ended it. I'm not sure how much MAH his driver pulls at 1.2v

It's a nice option in an emergency if needed or just a simple low output light
 
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I would run those drop ins with a 3v CR123 primary with reduced output for the expense of high lumens and have longer runtimes. Those newer drivers are better fit for multiple li-ions

I've found if you wanna run a single li-ion, a 14500/AA body and Vapcell F12 1250mah is the way to go with the new drivers. You'll get longer runtimes while still keeping the light small and a AA battery will power that driver and act as a single mode 30 lumen light

This ?

I just bought an AA MDC, so I'm really looking for a cr123 size, just because it's wrong to not have them all.
 
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I just bought an AA MDC, so I'm really looking for a cr123 size, just because it's wrong to not have them all.
Have you considered this drop-in? It's single output at 60 lumens (not sure how much you need) but I expect it to have great runtimes with a CR123. Not compatible with li-ion as it's max 3.3V.
 

This ?

I just bought an AA MDC, so I'm really looking for a cr123 size, just because it's wrong to not have them all.
I been swapping a few of my 123 body's for these in the AA body, as long as it can handle the volts this is the way, these vapcell are a game changer especially for the bodyguard on a AA body, thats mostly what I've been carrying since I found this battery.
 
I been swapping a few of my 123 body's for these in the AA body, as long as it can handle the volts this is the way, these vapcell are a game changer especially for the bodyguard on a AA body, thats mostly what I've been carrying since I found this battery.
Awesome. I have several of the f10 1000mah and just bought some keep power 14500. There were two versions of the KP. For the MDC 3 mode, 2 amp continuous discharge should be enough right ?
 
Awesome. I have several of the f10 1000mah and just bought some keep power 14500. There were two versions of the KP. For the MDC 3 mode, 2 amp continuous discharge should be enough right ?
the normal malkoff one states 1.7, the new kosen one states 2 so it all depends on what you have,
these aa MDC where really made to use with throw aways, there are other 3 speed heads for rechargeable and higher amp batteries, I have quite a few different 3 speed set up's
 
Awesome. I have several of the f10 1000mah and just bought some keep power 14500. There were two versions of the KP. For the MDC 3 mode, 2 amp continuous discharge should be enough right ?

Looks like on high, you've got 2200mAH of draw, so you'd probably want 3A?

For what it's worth, on the M361, SOMETIMES when I use that with a Vapcell F12 in a VME head on the AA body, I tend to get a high pitched whine from the PWM on the lower modes. It hasn't ever happen when using the Vapcell T8 16340, interestingly, though. And, it doesn't always happen. No idea what causes it, and why it's not consistent.
 
Inductor whine: a symptom of a lower quality uncoated component.
I know Malkoffs are meant to be reliable lights, wonder why he would use a lower quality component? I don't know much about that stuff but is that a bad thing? Would it be prone to failure at some point?
 
I should mention, it was only one time (so far), and only if I held it close to my ear, AND I generally would categorize myself as having above average sensitivity in terms of hearing (I have always been good about protecting my hearing, and I have a long-term enthusiasm/hobby with audio and music, haha). I also had a tonal test within the last few years, and was able to hear tones better than the average person, and well above my age group (not that I'm THAT old - early 40s), haha.
 
Whistling is not a problem unless it's a video card. But even there it's not considered a defect. My friend couldn't play games normally because of the constant whistling and he was refused an exchange because the video card didn't whistle in stress tests, lol. My old SF A2 whistles very noticeably and loudly, but it has been working for many years without problems, just like Petzl flashlights in PWM modes
 
I have a M361 right in front of me in an MD2 with a Keeppower 18650 and don't hear anything even with it right next to my ear. I use it daily. I also use the 16650 light with a Keeppower at work everyday and don't ever notice anything. My two most used lights.
 
I have a M361 right in front of me in an MD2 with a Keeppower 18650 and don't hear anything even with it right next to my ear. I use it daily. I also use the 16650 light with a Keeppower at work everyday and don't ever notice anything. My two most used lights.
Indeed. As I mentioned, it happened once, but I've never been able to replicate it, again. I've tried a few different cells.

I wonder if the F12 14500 I was using maybe needed to be charged?
Would a lower voltage reduce the frequency of the PWM to the point it'd become audible?
 
Has anyone successfully dedomed the Kosen MDC 1AA light themselves after purchasing? I have the bezel tool just curious how the working space is. I recall people simply running the light on high for a bit then pushing the dome off of the 519a in general just not on this assembled light.

Having never dedomed a 519a yet, I'm cautious on a $185 mistake = ). I haven't been on here for a while but have been hoping for that dedome custom to be made. This is close enough but I need to do the dedoming.

*edit after initially posting: I forgot the downside is lost warranty. Gene is ultra fair on warranty but I would understand this likely voids it unfortunately. Need to think on that a bit.

Thanks.
 
Has anyone successfully dedomed the Kosen MDC 1AA light themselves after purchasing? I have the bezel tool just curious how the working space is. I recall people simply running the light on high for a bit then pushing the dome off of the 519a in general just not on this assembled light.

Having never dedomed a 519a yet, I'm cautious on a $185 mistake = ). I haven't been on here for a while but have been hoping for that dedome custom to be made. This is close enough but I need to do the dedoming.

*edit after initially posting: I forgot the downside is lost warranty. Gene is ultra fair on warranty but I would understand this likely voids it unfortunately. Need to think on that a bit.

Thanks.
I do not have this particular Kosen light, but what the goal be of performing a dedome? I wouldn't consider this light a "thrower" by any means and would be worried that the dedome would cause a not so great looking beam without increasing its effectiveness of more throw.
 

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