The Malkoff Front Porch

[Lights and Guns]

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At about 4:30 mark. I wouldn't worry about over-tightening, LOL

LOL!
That's crazy!
Yeah and I was babying it as I was installing my ring. - guess I'll need to find a good pair of needle nose and twist as hard as I can when I get back home!!

 

[Schokokeks]

Blue Loctite is temporary and easy to break apart, especially if only a small portion of the circumference of the threaded surface is treated. I use it on all my knife pivot screws (except for the Sebenza) to prevent loosening over time and retain the correct tension and action.

It's not to be confused with the red version, which is considered permanent. Using that would give one a headache.

There is also a purple Loctite for low torque applications, and green for already-assembled components.

The only issue you may run into is that Loctite MAY need an activator. You'd want to check the documentation. Typically, the curing requires free electrons from metal, so I'm not sure how anodized aluminum and brass would work. Anodized aluminum is a "nonactive" metal:

When to use Loctite Activator with your Loctite Threadlocker

All metals are not the same in their characteristics. That is a widely known fact in the engineering world. And hence, they do not behave the same in how they interact with substances, in how they can be processed and handled etc. When it comes to bonding in general, and threadlocking...

www.henkel-adhesives.com

Further, Loctite works by locking...tight. That CAN be good, but it tends to not be the best solution for vibration sensitive applications, or applications where you may need to thread/unthread it in the future. Once the fastener is loosened, the Loctite essentially is useless, and must be re-applied and fully cured for effect.


I'd recomment Vibra-tite VC3 over Loctite in this application. VC3 essentially will "gum up" the threads, resisting vibration REALLY well. You can also unscrew your ring, and rescrew it in several times before it stops being effective.

If you've never used VC3, get some (Grainger's consumer site Zoro sells it in smaller containers), and - you're welcome.
VC3 is essentially EXACTLY what people want when they grab for Loctite in maybe 90% of applications; just something to resist vibrations loosening a fastener, but nothing permanent.

I found this stuff maybe a decade ago, and it CHANGED EVERYTHING. I barely ever use Loctite or other threadlockers anymore, because I'm almost always looking to increase the vibration resistance, and this just work so much better (it's a bit messy, though), PLUS, I can undo the fasteners, and redo them, and it STILL works!

 

[Lights and Guns]

There is also a purple Loctite for low torque applications, and green for already-assembled components.

The only issue you may run into is that Loctite MAY need an activator. You'd want to check the documentation. Typically, the curing requires free electrons from metal, so I'm not sure how anodized aluminum and brass would work. Anodized aluminum is a "nonactive" metal:

When to use Loctite Activator with your Loctite Threadlocker

All metals are not the same in their characteristics. That is a widely known fact in the engineering world. And hence, they do not behave the same in how they interact with substances, in how they can be processed and handled etc. When it comes to bonding in general, and threadlocking...

www.henkel-adhesives.com

Further, Loctite works by locking...tight. That CAN be good, but it tends to not be the best solution for vibration sensitive applications, or applications where you may need to thread/unthread it in the future. Once the fastener is loosened, the Loctite essentially is useless, and must be re-applied and fully cured for effect.


I'd recomment Vibra-tite VC3 over Loctite in this application. VC3 essentially will "gum up" the threads, resisting vibration REALLY well. You can also unscrew your ring, and rescrew it in several times before it stops being effective.

If you've never used VC3, get some (Grainger's consumer site Zoro sells it in smaller containers), and - you're welcome.
VC3 is essentially EXACTLY what people want when they grab for Loctite in maybe 90% of applications; just something to resist vibrations loosening a fastener, but nothing permanent.

I found this stuff maybe a decade ago, and it CHANGED EVERYTHING. I barely ever use Loctite or other threadlockers anymore, because I'm almost always looking to increase the vibration resistance, and this just work so much better (it's a bit messy, though), PLUS, I can undo the fasteners, and redo them, and it STILL works!

Thank you.
I may look into this.

I am away on a trip currently - took my Malkoff with me - and have no tools to fix it up properly sadly.

When I get back home and have tools at my disposal I will attempt to tighten it down really hard without anything to assist it holding….

If I don't have any luck this way… then I may resort to some aide.

Hoping I can just tighten the ring down really hard and it'll stay put… not sure but we'll see.

 

[md17]

Thank you.
I may look into this.

I am away on a trip currently - took my Malkoff with me - and have no tools to fix it up properly sadly.

When I get back home and have tools at my disposal I will attempt to tighten it down really hard without anything to assist it holding….

If I don't have any luck this way… then I may resort to some aide.

Hoping I can just tighten the ring down really hard and it'll stay put… not sure but we'll see.

Personally, I would not use loc-tite. But I do think it's worth buying the tool from Malkoff if you're going to have a couple of lights or mess with different drop ins. It's a hefty chunk of metal with little chances of slipping while cranking the ring down.

 

[knucklegary]

LOL!
That's crazy!
Yeah and I was babying it as I was installing my ring. - guess I'll need to find a good pair of needle nose and twist as hard as I can when I get back home!!

Agreed, instead of needle nose, that might slip and chew up the brass, take others recommendations and use the easy removable Loctite. Then you can snug it up lightly. I would do that before torquing too tight.
Or get the tool and use both methods 😁

 

[Lights and Guns]

Personally, I would not use loc-tite. But I do think it's worth buying the tool from Malkoff if you're going to have a couple of lights or mess with different drop ins. It's a hefty chunk of metal with little chances of slipping while cranking the ring down.

Alright sir, I'll go ahead and buy the tool from Malkoff - I think this sounds like the best course of action to start. - I'll be ordering the standard version. Hopefully this will solve the problem of the ring backing out. - I have a feeling it will.

Thanks for all the input - never knew this tool existed.

 

[md17]

Alright sir, I'll go ahead and buy the tool from Malkoff - I think this sounds like the best course of action to start. - I'll be ordering the standard version. Hopefully this will solve the problem of the ring backing out. - I have a feeling it will.

Thanks for all the input - never knew this tool existed.

Yep. With a screwdriver, a good grip and a hell of a twist, the ring shouldn't back out afterwards. If it does, it wasn't enough twist. Just make sure the gasket, lens and drop in are seated correctly before hand. Sometimes the gasket is a little uneven and you can see it on the lens.

 

[RWT1405]

I've had Malkoff retaining rings back out sometimes. I just put a small dab of blue Loctite inside the head threads where the ring would sit. The solid glue stick type of Loctite is easier to work with, just scoop a tiny chunk and mash it into the threads. Reinstall the ring and let it cure 24 hours.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around needing to use "Loctite" on a Malkoff

I've been using Malkoff's since 2008, and I have NEVER found the need to apply "Loctite" to any of my many Malkoff's

Of course, as soon as Gene made them available, I purchased a Malkoff Head Wrench, and use that to secure Retaining and Hi/Low switch rings

Using the Head Wrench (hand strength only) has always worked for me

Malkoff MDX Head Wrench – Malkoff Devices

This is a Head Wrench to fit the Retaining Ring and High/Low Switch Ring in the MDX Head. There are 3 drive styles available: Standard: Simply slip a suitable rod or screwdriver through the hole to gain leverage for tightening. 3/8" Hex Drive: Any 3/8" socket should work to drive this. 1/4"...

malkoffdevices.com

 

[Lights and Guns]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around needing to use "Loctite" on a Malkoff

I've been using Malkoff's since 2008, and I have NEVER found the need to apply "Loctite" to any of my many Malkoff's

Of course, as soon as Gene made them available, I purchased a Malkoff Head Wrench, and use that to secure Retaining and Hi/Low switch rings

Using the Head Wrench (hand strength only) has always worked for me

Malkoff MDX Head Wrench – Malkoff Devices

This is a Head Wrench to fit the Retaining Ring and High/Low Switch Ring in the MDX Head. There are 3 drive styles available: Standard: Simply slip a suitable rod or screwdriver through the hole to gain leverage for tightening. 3/8" Hex Drive: Any 3/8" socket should work to drive this. 1/4"...

malkoffdevices.com

Wonderful, glad to hear it!
I just purchased the tool last night after another member suggested it. - I never knew it existed somehow haha! - I have a feeling this will be all I need!

I also picked up and extra lens kit to keep in storage just in case! Might as well haha

Glad to hear the tool works for you - looking forward to receiving mine in the mail this week.

 

[RWT1405]

Wonderful, glad to hear it!
I just purchased the tool last night after another member suggested it. - I never knew it existed somehow haha! - I have a feeling this will be all I need!

I also picked up and extra lens kit to keep in storage just in case! Might as well haha

Glad to hear the tool works for you - looking forward to receiving mine in the mail this week.

I believe you'll be very happy with it!

Smart to keep spare/extra lens kit/s

Best of luck!

 

[Schokokeks]

I believe you'll be very happy with it!

Smart to keep spare/extra lens kit/s

Best of luck!

I use Circlip pliers, and they work very well (since they're kind of designed for these type of jobs). They're not too expensive, and Lowe's carries Knipex in store in most places:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/KNIPEX-5-65-in-Circlip-Pliers/1000697970

These are also REALLY useful for a bunch of other things. They have a style that is like traditional pliers, and "reverse" ones that expand as you squeeze them (that's the ones I linked, and that I use). It's nice, because they grip will without having to use a ton of pressure, and you can torque things down without worrying about serrations chewing up the holes, and because the tips are actually round, they tend to stay in the holes fairly well without jumping out.

The Malkoff tool is about the same price, so it's not a bad idea to get, but if you do anything with Circlips, these pliers are a godsend, anyway.

 

[340pd]

I have installed a couple of hi/lo rings and removed and installed them using a pair of needle nose pliers without loctite and had no problems at all.

 

[Monocrom]

Blue Loctite is fine. Red? Can't think of anything a person would want to nail down in place for multiple generations. But, each their own.

 

[northernlight]

I just got an MD2 with the M61WL dropin and the high/low switch. I'm wondering if the flashlight remains waterproof when you unscrew the ring ever so slightly to activate the low mode? I would guess the O ring still would maintain some water resistance, but I don't know. I'm asking because it would be convenient for my use case to just always leave it on low -- that way my wife won't have to fiddle with the modes when she uses it, which is typically half asleep, in the middle of the night, checking in on the baby, a situation that doesn't brook much UI complexity. She's been known to grab whatever is handy, eg a flashlight, for stirring soap and water, so if the MD2 can't take that, I guess I'll give her the MDC instead.

 

[cerbie]

It will be fine, unless she's stirring up lye, Evaporust, or Greased Lightning. Even then, the seal will still be fine, just that the lens could get cloudy, and the anodize might start coming off.

 

[Schokokeks]

I just got an MD2 with the M61WL dropin and the high/low switch. I'm wondering if the flashlight remains waterproof when you unscrew the ring ever so slightly to activate the low mode? I would guess the O ring still would maintain some water resistance, but I don't know. I'm asking because it would be convenient for my use case to just always leave it on low -- that way my wife won't have to fiddle with the modes when she uses it, which is typically half asleep, in the middle of the night, checking in on the baby, a situation that doesn't brook much UI complexity. She's been known to grab whatever is handy, eg a flashlight, for stirring soap and water, so if the MD2 can't take that, I guess I'll give her the MDC instead.

For the soap and water, if you hang onto an old bottle of dish soap, you can put a drop of dishsoap in it, then fill it maybe 10-20% full with water, and shake it. Now, you have a "jet nozzle" of super soapy water for spraying on all your dishes.

Once you try it, you'll never stop doing it. It's amazing, haha.

Plus, it'll save your flashlights, hahah

 

[Schokokeks]

I think I tried the cloud, I might of went with these cause of camping with lighter shorts I didn't want to jack up the pockets, but I use the cloud clips on the bigger lights for sure.

The red I got on the second and threw a high low switch on it, it's a killer set up, trying to get kosen to do an amber next or if I can get wholesale pricing from gene with my tax ID number I'd even front the money for that project and not worry about getting pre sales.


View attachment 60101

Interestingly enough, I'd contacted Kosen about an amber drop-in somewhat recently, too.

We both assumed it'd be a relatively niche demand, so if anyone else is interested, it's probably not a bad idea to just reach out to Kosen and let them know.

I also think a deep red SST-20 would be neat, too.

 

[md17]

M91BW on a MD21700 and a mutilated Lumens factory clip has become my new favorite light.

 

[Grizzman]

I see Gene now offers 1/4" and 3/8" hex drive wrenches. Nice!! I also hadn't seen the assembly video before.

It looks like I've missed some product updates, including the Hound Dog 18650 XT V2 and Wildcat 18650. My newest Wildcat's a V5, so it might be time for a new one.

 

[Wilburforce]

I've been out of the flashlight game for a while as (shock horror) been fairly happy with what I have… All my Malkoff's are pre the new body design so the new changes are all a bit bewildering at the moment.

I've long lusted after just a simple Okluma DC0 in tumbled aluminium but never going to find one of those… And I hate the thought of Anduril complications... And 97% of other flashlights I find hideous. So as an alternative...

Can someone talk me through 16340 Bodyguard options? - Pref to only use a rechargeable 16340 rather than CR123s

I would love the short new 16340 Bodyguard shrouded body but with a LMH or just a LH

I don't believe the slightly loosen the head hi/low switch exists for the MDC range?

I'm not in the Police or Military so don't need a tactical blinding light so I'm a bit stumped as to how to make it work for me.

Would love a warmish/neutral tint - ideally a Nichia 519a perhaps... And a High that doesn't step down but is more frugal and considered and stays at something in the range of 250 - 350 ish lumens - so I could have a decent long run time and only a mildly warm flashlight in High.

And I think maybe something around 25 lumens for the Low…

Preferably come in on Low always. So kind of like the AA MDC - but I owned the original and it was too long for me.

I have a FiveMega 18350 body ring and a nice big chunky Hexagonal head someone did a little niche run of, with a M61 N LLLL for a little low house light and I love it, but want something a tiny bit more pocketable and with also a bit of a higher output for an EDC light.

Also is the MDC 1CR123 body the same as used in the complete MDC Bodyguard flashlight?

I don't know what lego combinations might work?
Lumens Factory bits?
What custom head options does anyone offer?

Am I right in thinking that the Bodyguard - is sized/threaded the same as a Surefire E-series...? Half of my confusion looking at Lumens Factory etc, is not knowing which bodies/heads/tails/ are the same diameter and thread pitch etc...

I do have a M361N-LMH - and seem to remember there is a VME Valiant?? head that maybe took M61 drop ins for the MDC range?? Edit: Just checked, this still exists... though I wish it had no white lettering/branding on it.

So what would my options be for a head and drop in for a the MDC Bodyguard…

Many thanks