curious to see how this will compare to the soon-to-be-released LF2XT (AAA).
As am I. Although I must add that I'm not buying any more lights that aren't neutral tint. So if they'd release a Q3 LF3XT I'd have bought in long ago.
The new little NiteCore: "EZAA" Part 2
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As am I. Although I must add that I'm not buying any more lights that aren't neutral tint. So if they'd release a Q3 LF3XT I'd have bought in long ago.
AFAustin
Flashlight Enthusiast
I received my EZAA today---thanks very much to 4sevens & crew for the very fast ship. 2 days from Atlanta to the outskirts of Austin, Texas---not too shabby.
My experience playing with this little light has so far been an unusual one. The first thing I did was promptly break the USB charged AA cell (the 4sevens pre-order bonus gift). I (clumsily, it would seem) pushed the + end over to expose the USB plug, and it broke apart instead, about 5mm below where it is supposed to, exposing the circuit board. For good measure, the plastic wrap around the cell rather easily began to unravel as well. I will take blame for not being as careful as I should have been, but at the same time I've got to say I'm not impressed with the construction of this cell. It really seems awfully flimsy.
But, oh well, I wasn't expecting much from the novelty cell anyway, and it was a free gift---and a nice gesture from 4sevens---so NBD. On to the light.
The main attraction has been the diminutive (for an AA light) form factor, and the EZAA doesn't disappoint. It is very slim, yet long enough to provide a good gripping surface for 4 fingers at least, and it feels very good in the hand.
Likewise, the knurling is excellent, as is the case with most Nitecores that I have handled. I wish the band of knurling on the head were a tad wider, but that is a small quibble as there is still plenty for a good twisty grip.
I opted for the standard issue tint, and I must say I am very pleased. I am not a warm tint fanatic, but likewise don't care for anything overtly cool. The tint on my EZAA is what I would describe as a very nice neutral---neither yellow warm nor cool blue to these old eyes, and I find it very pleasing. A big :thumbsup: on this aspect.
As for output, high is very strong---on an eneloop it is maybe a hair less than my EX10 on max (on an RCR123A cell). Low is probably right around what Nitecore said it is in the revised version---10 lumens---judging by the fact that its overall output, based on a quick ceiling bounce test, is close to my EO1, which is rated at 10 lumens as Benson points out above. The very great difference in the two output levels concerns me, and I don't yet know exactly how I will use this light.
I did a quick informal runtime test, and got about 45 minutes on high on an eneloop. This was a bit less than the 50 minutes given by Nitecore, although I don't believe they said what kind of cell was used to arrive at that number. However, output appeared to be quite flat during that entire time.
Well, I said my early experience with the EZAA had been unusual, and I didn't mean just as to the USB AA cell. I soon discovered that mine, unlike some of the other revised models already received, required about 85% of a full 360 degree rotation to get from onset of low to high, as had been reported for the original version. A fast, easy way to change levels is a necessary feature for any multi-level light, IMO, so I was not a happy camper.
Long story short is that I began to fool around with the spring on the head, trying to tweak it so that the low to high twisting would be shortened, and I managed to break it off. So, I started playing around and fashioned a small tin foil disc that I placed on the head where the spring had been, held down by sliding its edges under the hard foam pad. Well, the result is a much shorter travel distance from low to high. I don't know if this is a satisfactory permanent solution, but I definitely prefer it to the original scheme in my light.
All in all, I don't know how I will feel about the EZAA after using it for a few days, but it will be fun finding out. The size, feel, and beam are all excellent, and that makes me want this nice little light to succeed.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Updates: I did a second informal runtime test earlier today, and tried to pay a bit closer attention to how the EZ maintained its output on high. It probably helped that this morning I was drinking coffee, as opposed to some good Dos Equis beer last night. 😛
As before, I used a fully charged eneloop. The first 30 minutes, output was flat. At 40 minutes, there was discernable dimming, but it was still quite bright. At 45 minutes, it remained about the same. At 50 minutes, there was more noticeable dimming, but there was still significantly more output on high than on low. At 55 minutes, there was now only the slightest difference between high and low. At that point, I concluded the test and so don't know how long the tail will last.
Secondly, as to the "long twist" issue, I decided to try and improve on my tin foil disc fix from last night. This time, I fashioned a new spring, or maybe "coil" is a better term because it is fairly flat, from thin wire. I was careful to have a small piece in the very middle so as to make contact with what I am assuming is the contact point for high in the middle of the head. I made the coil just wide enough so as to fit snugly against the sides of the cushion inside the head, so that it will stay put.
I had good luck with this, and after only a couple of attempts was pleased with the results. This is a more stable fix than tin foil, and I can now access high within about a quarter turn from off. 🙂
I am happy with my "twist fix", and the EZ is definitely easier to use with a shorter turn to access the levels. The only thing that concerns me is that while I, an admittedly unhandy guy, could so significantly improve the UI in about 30 minutes of trying, I would've preferred that the experts at NiteCore pay a bit more attention to this issue, particularly in light of the wide variations that appear to exist in the finished product. I'm not bashing NiteCore here, and in fact, I am a big fan of their innovation and their products. Just wondering. :thinking:
My experience playing with this little light has so far been an unusual one. The first thing I did was promptly break the USB charged AA cell (the 4sevens pre-order bonus gift). I (clumsily, it would seem) pushed the + end over to expose the USB plug, and it broke apart instead, about 5mm below where it is supposed to, exposing the circuit board. For good measure, the plastic wrap around the cell rather easily began to unravel as well. I will take blame for not being as careful as I should have been, but at the same time I've got to say I'm not impressed with the construction of this cell. It really seems awfully flimsy.
But, oh well, I wasn't expecting much from the novelty cell anyway, and it was a free gift---and a nice gesture from 4sevens---so NBD. On to the light.
The main attraction has been the diminutive (for an AA light) form factor, and the EZAA doesn't disappoint. It is very slim, yet long enough to provide a good gripping surface for 4 fingers at least, and it feels very good in the hand.
Likewise, the knurling is excellent, as is the case with most Nitecores that I have handled. I wish the band of knurling on the head were a tad wider, but that is a small quibble as there is still plenty for a good twisty grip.
I opted for the standard issue tint, and I must say I am very pleased. I am not a warm tint fanatic, but likewise don't care for anything overtly cool. The tint on my EZAA is what I would describe as a very nice neutral---neither yellow warm nor cool blue to these old eyes, and I find it very pleasing. A big :thumbsup: on this aspect.
As for output, high is very strong---on an eneloop it is maybe a hair less than my EX10 on max (on an RCR123A cell). Low is probably right around what Nitecore said it is in the revised version---10 lumens---judging by the fact that its overall output, based on a quick ceiling bounce test, is close to my EO1, which is rated at 10 lumens as Benson points out above. The very great difference in the two output levels concerns me, and I don't yet know exactly how I will use this light.
I did a quick informal runtime test, and got about 45 minutes on high on an eneloop. This was a bit less than the 50 minutes given by Nitecore, although I don't believe they said what kind of cell was used to arrive at that number. However, output appeared to be quite flat during that entire time.
Well, I said my early experience with the EZAA had been unusual, and I didn't mean just as to the USB AA cell. I soon discovered that mine, unlike some of the other revised models already received, required about 85% of a full 360 degree rotation to get from onset of low to high, as had been reported for the original version. A fast, easy way to change levels is a necessary feature for any multi-level light, IMO, so I was not a happy camper.
Long story short is that I began to fool around with the spring on the head, trying to tweak it so that the low to high twisting would be shortened, and I managed to break it off. So, I started playing around and fashioned a small tin foil disc that I placed on the head where the spring had been, held down by sliding its edges under the hard foam pad. Well, the result is a much shorter travel distance from low to high. I don't know if this is a satisfactory permanent solution, but I definitely prefer it to the original scheme in my light.
All in all, I don't know how I will feel about the EZAA after using it for a few days, but it will be fun finding out. The size, feel, and beam are all excellent, and that makes me want this nice little light to succeed.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Updates: I did a second informal runtime test earlier today, and tried to pay a bit closer attention to how the EZ maintained its output on high. It probably helped that this morning I was drinking coffee, as opposed to some good Dos Equis beer last night. 😛
As before, I used a fully charged eneloop. The first 30 minutes, output was flat. At 40 minutes, there was discernable dimming, but it was still quite bright. At 45 minutes, it remained about the same. At 50 minutes, there was more noticeable dimming, but there was still significantly more output on high than on low. At 55 minutes, there was now only the slightest difference between high and low. At that point, I concluded the test and so don't know how long the tail will last.
Secondly, as to the "long twist" issue, I decided to try and improve on my tin foil disc fix from last night. This time, I fashioned a new spring, or maybe "coil" is a better term because it is fairly flat, from thin wire. I was careful to have a small piece in the very middle so as to make contact with what I am assuming is the contact point for high in the middle of the head. I made the coil just wide enough so as to fit snugly against the sides of the cushion inside the head, so that it will stay put.
I had good luck with this, and after only a couple of attempts was pleased with the results. This is a more stable fix than tin foil, and I can now access high within about a quarter turn from off. 🙂
I am happy with my "twist fix", and the EZ is definitely easier to use with a shorter turn to access the levels. The only thing that concerns me is that while I, an admittedly unhandy guy, could so significantly improve the UI in about 30 minutes of trying, I would've preferred that the experts at NiteCore pay a bit more attention to this issue, particularly in light of the wide variations that appear to exist in the finished product. I'm not bashing NiteCore here, and in fact, I am a big fan of their innovation and their products. Just wondering. :thinking:
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Lite_me
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thank you for your thoughts and experiences with the EZ, Andrew.
The two quotes above are the main reasons why I think I'm gonna take a pass on this one. These have been my thoughts all along so don't go thinking you talked me out of it. :ironic: :wave:
AFAustin
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hi there, Dennis. Great to hear from you. Yep, I haven't made up my own mind yet on the EZAA, but time will tell.....
Cheers,
Andrew
I must be one of the lucky ones. In an informal measurement, with the Nitcore name in front of me, I only need to twist the head about 30 degrees for low and another 50-60 for high. About a quarter of a turn or 90 degrees in total, if my math is correct.
That is with the USB battery. It is the same with an Energizer Lithium battery.
I believe Peter has mentioned on the marketplace therad that the 50min runtime on max is rated for 2700mah Nimhs, given that you are getting 45 minutes out of a 2000mah eneloop, it seems that they have been conservative with their rating. I wonder how straight the regulation is.
Flying Turtle
Flashaholic
Sorry to read of your bad luck with battery and light, Andrew. It's not real obvious how that battery top opens. I may have come close to doing the same thing. To future recipients, pull up on the cap and you'll see how the elastic bands hold it on. Hope your light fix holds up. I guess the QC on NiteCore's spring adjustments was not completely consistant.
Geoff
Geoff
StandardBattery
Flashlight Enthusiast
The new specs for low of 10lm for 20Hrs, if true should be OK as far as efficiency, but I think with two levels they just could not make everyone happy and decided to please those that wanted a pretty low low on this light. For general purpose however it makes the low:high ratio 1:13 which is rather high (true output measurements might reduce it a bit).
Still looking forward to having the neutral-tints shipping next week for testing. The size of this light does look attractive.
Still looking forward to having the neutral-tints shipping next week for testing. The size of this light does look attractive.
Peter Atwood
Enlightened
Well I did the same darned thing. Thought the black bands were a hinge and promptly snapped off the head on the cell. No biggie as I have two lights and therefore a second cell which is charging right now.
Anyhow, this light is quite nifty. Form wise it compares very well with the old fashioned Arc AA light but it's actually even thinner. Mine goes from low to high in about 1/2 turn and I'm quite happy with that. Even if it were a bit more it wouldn't bother me in the least.
On low with an alkaline I'd say we're talking Arc AAA strength light. Beam is just a tad ringy but certainly within the realm of acceptable. Very good tint. On high it's a serious torch!
Bottom line, I love the simplicity of two levels and for me the settings are terrific. The build quality is fantastic and the light looks sharp with the crisp matte black ano and the bright brass accent of the heat sink. Wonderful size. I really like this light and may pick up a few more as gifts and to stash around the house and vehicle.
Anyhow, this light is quite nifty. Form wise it compares very well with the old fashioned Arc AA light but it's actually even thinner. Mine goes from low to high in about 1/2 turn and I'm quite happy with that. Even if it were a bit more it wouldn't bother me in the least.
On low with an alkaline I'd say we're talking Arc AAA strength light. Beam is just a tad ringy but certainly within the realm of acceptable. Very good tint. On high it's a serious torch!
Bottom line, I love the simplicity of two levels and for me the settings are terrific. The build quality is fantastic and the light looks sharp with the crisp matte black ano and the bright brass accent of the heat sink. Wonderful size. I really like this light and may pick up a few more as gifts and to stash around the house and vehicle.
oldpal
Enlightened
Why is there, as reported in this thread, so much variation in rotation of these lights when switching from low to high?
Hugh
Hugh
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
As an EDC light it would be nice if the high was a real 60 lumens for longer runtime as a work light. I wish they would forgo the "wow" high lumens for the one cell AA or AAA lights. :naughty: Would be nice to be able to use it for 2-3 hours on a decent high setting, and being so small it could be carried on a neck lanyard for instant always ready to use for whatever. Maybe we will be able to access the driver for some mods. 😗
Bill
Bill
regulator
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2006
- Messages
- 1,221
I agree. I like to have at least around 2 hours runtime on high. I am also a bit disappointed that they changed the specs to match the light rather than make the light correct to the 15 lumens output.
10 lumens is easy to do with an AAA cell light with decent runtime and there are several out there. 15 lumens would cut runtime short with an AAA cell - and is why a 15 lumen EZAA would be perfect. I am on the fence about the EZAA. I really like the size and overall concept - just not the output levels. Decisions.
Beacon of Light
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2005
- Messages
- 2,087
My EZAA came in today. Glad it is on the cooler side of the light spectrum. I like it. Simple and convenient. I can see this being a useful EDC for a lot of people. Low seems low enough and the high is about as high as I ever need.
Thanks to 4-7's and Nitecore for a nice light. They handled the revised versions in a timely manner which is a good thing to see in this day and age. USB Cell was a nifty touch too.
Thanks to 4-7's and Nitecore for a nice light. They handled the revised versions in a timely manner which is a good thing to see in this day and age. USB Cell was a nifty touch too.
Well, mechanically, there's a conical spring that makes initial contact (low) and is collapsed down flat to contact the center of the PCB (high); the exact set of the spring and any variations in soldering it are critical, and there's less than one turn in all cases reported, which is IMHO quite close lengthwise. Of course, I'd have liked a coarser and/or multi-lead thread, which could have reduced this, but given the thread choice, I can't see controlling the spring gap much tighter than this.
If anyone's bothered by it... build up the center pad with solder. With a needle-tip iron and steady hands, you should be able to do it directly, but I wound up removing the spring, building up the pad, and replacing the spring. Mine's now down to 1/3 turn from off/low to low/high -- could be a little less, but I can now twist between off and high in one motion.
AFAustin
Flashlight Enthusiast
Benson, thanks for that insight on the spring/twist issue. If a clumsy solderer, like me, attempted this, and bled solder between the center (high) contact point and the perimeter (low) contact points, would that result in losing the low level? At any rate, that was my concern, and so, not being skilled with a soldering iron, or even owning a needle tip iron, I went at it a bit differently.
I've updated my Post #122 above regarding this, and added a bit more runtime info.
I've updated my Post #122 above regarding this, and added a bit more runtime info.
StandardBattery
Flashlight Enthusiast
I think it might be harder for Nitecore to be consistent in this because of a variation in battery lengths. It is also likely a small difference at the tail, or mounting of the spring in the head may produce a big rotational difference given the amount of distance to play with for a 1/4" turn. You also want to be sure that when off, slight pressure on the head won't activate the light due to play in the threads.
Try it with another battery type and see how it goes, I'm not sure if the biggest issue is tolerances in assembly, battery length, or both.
Nice to know that it may not be too difficult for us to tweak it to our personal preference.
Well... the real problem is if you attempt to build up the pad without removing the spring, and your iron is too fat or jitters too much (I think both were factors with me) you'll wind up soldering the spring to the center pad. This will eliminate the low mode, and is a royal pain to recover from -- took me about a half hour.
If you take the spring off, there's basically no way you could accidentally bridge the contacts on the PCB, and supposing you somehow did, it would be easily fixed with desoldering wick. Just make sure the center pad is domed to the height you want and the outer pad is almost completely devoid of solder before you put the spring back on, then a little heat, a touch of solder, and it's stuck back down. I got it stuck back down centered on the second try, and I'm no great solderer. I do really need to get a finer iron if I'm gonna make a habit out of this SMD spring stuff. 😉
DHart
Flashlight Enthusiast
Bill, I carry my LD01 that way around the house and I'm amazed at how oftern I am able to find a use for the light which helps just a bit more than without a light... things which in the past I would not have bothered finding a flashlight to help illuminate. I love the neck lanyard carry with the LD01!
I'm curious to know how close in size this light comes to the LD01, which is a phenomenal light, especially on a 10440.
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Flying Turtle
Flashaholic
Check out my post #102 in this thread for a size comparison pic. That is a L0D, but I think it's the same size as the LD01.
I know it's risky (battery leakage), but the EZAA seems to perform way above par on dead batteries. I finally checked the voltage on the one I'd initially tried and commented about. It's a cheap alkaline and reads 0.80 in the test mode on my multi-meter. No problem firing up, and it's nearly as bright as the normal low level. This battery won't do squat in the Fenix and only lights the red LED in the Proton. Makes this light a good candidate for emergency kits. And don't forget it'll work about as well with a AAA. Just pop a wad of aluminum foil in the tube to make it fit.
Geoff
