Modernflame
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's fantastic, Stevie-Ca! First rate and old school. True classics!
That's fantastic, Stevie-Ca! First rate and old school. True classics!
Here is MD2 S/N 48 and 49 plus a couple of twists.
Great mint examples of early MD2's.. Luv the rubber switch boots!
Those are some of my favorites too ....
What engines do you have under the hood ?
INFRNL you are forming a new collection of flashlights very interesting. this uv model should be very curious. when possible post your impressions on him and what you can do with a "flashlight" like that.
with regards to graphics: better and more complete every day! a gigantic contribution to the junkie community.
I'll soon beg for an updated worksheet![]()
I did sell off all my CW lights. I got these during the sale to help xdavy out.Great chart! I thought you sold all of your cool white Malkoffs on to better homes. As I've lived with both of these devices for a few months now, I've come to prefer the HOT, whereas I initially favored the T. The HOT has more spill.
I’m seriously thinking about paring a new 18650 Cool HD with my old body.
INFRNL, I too have an early model MD2 body with a Kroll switch. I unscrewed the Kroll, and screwed in a tail cap from a Minimag, minus spring. I adjusted the mini tailcap so I could use it as a twisty. Probably less resistance than the Kroll, and it can tail stand.
Bill
Hey, Blues. Do you guys use these on crime scenes? All I know about cops I learned from TV.
TV showing crap. You need a special chemical agent applied to see blood in UV. Normally blood is black in UV.
Here is Hot vs T on the same chart. T test finished. Currently testing HOT on rayovac primaries:thumbsup:
Keep in mind that this was a one time test but it should gives us an idea. If i reran the test, I imagine it would be similar; only thing changing is output a little.
I forgot to mention, The HOT ran for an additional 12+hrs even though it may have not been exactly useful output. It died while I was sleeping. according to the data logger, the T didn't make it past 15hrs.
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but not sure it's any better than CW for outdoors use.
Thanks for the very valuable runtime graph! It seems that T and HOT have very similar lumen-hours which is a bit surprising taking the first 80min output difference in consider. Still I think the perceived brightness difference is pretty subtle for the eyes. After ~120min and 2hours after that the T is much brighter, though. Therefore I think T would be my choice.
It would be good if that gets done. I was looking at the M61LLL which should be 50 lumens for 10 hours and the M31LL which should be 50 lumens for maybe 5? not sure. If these were Cree LEDS XP-G they would be brighter. Ok the Nichia does make the scared bacon look nice (that's no small thing) and the tint snobs go plant of the apes crazy for those color charts but not sure it's any better than CW for outdoors use. Still it would be the only game in town for for LLL/LL and I got a G2 and MD3 looking for an engine.
<<<removed content EDIT: ok, I just went and did the easy thing...took it apart. It is an o-ring. I'm thinking the original owner changed it out. Makes more sense now cause he also put some on the outside of the HD v3 i got from him. I feel likeNow I have to check my M60 and M60F modules for GITD gaskets! :twothumbs