The Official Malkoff Junkie thread - Part 2

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Greenbean

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Here is MD2 S/N 48 and 49 plus a couple of twists.

Man I used to have a single twisty that had a little lanyard bump on the end. Ran an old M30 in it and braided some cool paracord onto the end.

Ended up selling it for some odd reason.

[emoji19]
 

stevie-ca

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Those are some of my favorites too ....

What engines do you have under the hood ?

The 1X123 twist has a M31.
The 2x123 twist has a M61LL.
Both look to be neutral. Think I got the hosts about eight years ago but play a bit with the drop-ins.

Need to check on the MD2s, once i take them apart.. lol..

I love to collect the lights but I have not really learned much about them. I really need to do that.

Been gathering my Malkoff collection for about 10 years now.
 

INFRNL

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I must have dozed off at the wrong time but seems like the questions got answered.

As far as the UV light, I just thought it would be cool to check out. It has a similar effect to a black light. I won't really have any official use for it, just a check this out factor.
I went to tmobile the other day to make a change to my plan, the guy shined a uv light on my ID to make sure it was real. That really got my curiosity.

So obviously there are many uses but I would say mainly forensics or someone just wanting to spot pet urine, etc. It can be used to determine if money is real or not. I did enjoy checking out my Colorado license with it though, there are a few things on there that cannot be seen with the naked eye., I tried it on a $20 bill and I did find where my belated male dog sprayed a wall downstairs.

It seams very sensitive to white, will pick up glue/adhesive and i'm sure many other things. For my use it will most likely be a temporary new toy, as i won't have a consistent use for it.
it cannot be used too well if it is too bright. I could definitely see it being useful for scorpion hunting, sea shells, etc, etc...it can charge glow-in the dark things probably better than other lights.

Not as cool as the ID but another example:
QvAO7s5.jpg
3WsDajx.jpg





INFRNL you are forming a new collection of flashlights very interesting. this uv model should be very curious. when possible post your impressions on him and what you can do with a "flashlight" like that.

with regards to graphics: better and more complete every day! a gigantic contribution to the junkie community.

I'll soon beg for an updated worksheet :)

I don't think I have added too much since the last because those Super tests have been taking up sooo much time. Just let me know


Great chart! I thought you sold all of your cool white Malkoffs on to better homes. As I've lived with both of these devices for a few months now, I've come to prefer the HOT, whereas I initially favored the T. The HOT has more spill.
I did sell off all my CW lights. I got these during the sale to help xdavy out.

I haven't taken these out to play yet because of the tests. I did do a quick test in the garage and seemed like they had the same profile. I want to take them outside to be able to see the real difference.


I’m seriously thinking about paring a new 18650 Cool HD with my old body.

I think this would be a great idea, keep em coming, cause i am not sure what i want to do.
Unfortunately mine is a user SN 1190. I also thought about getting a new kroll switch for it but I typically do not like switch to protrude past the end. I guess it depends on what i do with it.

If I used it on a HD I could possibly live with the kroll switch. If i use it as a twistie, I would prefer it to be a single mode light. IDK


Thanks for all the 1 piece body pics, very cool bit of history:thumbsup:
 
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Bullzeyebill

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INFRNL, I too have an early model MD2 body with a Kroll switch. I unscrewed the Kroll, and screwed in a tail cap from a Minimag, minus spring. I adjusted the mini tailcap so I could use it as a twisty. Probably less resistance than the Kroll, and it can tail stand.

Bill
 

INFRNL

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awww, they will just find my criminal background, which is not pretty:crackup:but you might be right, I don't feel like editing them, so I will replace them with a $20. although it won't show the effect as well. at least someone got to see it;)
 

INFRNL

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INFRNL, I too have an early model MD2 body with a Kroll switch. I unscrewed the Kroll, and screwed in a tail cap from a Minimag, minus spring. I adjusted the mini tailcap so I could use it as a twisty. Probably less resistance than the Kroll, and it can tail stand.

Bill

That is exactly what the original owner did. It currently has a chrome minimag tailcap but is still using a spring as well. seems to work great.

Thanks for sharing the option. I'm sure i will eventually figure out a more permanent home.
 

INFRNL

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Has anyone ever seen this. The same guy I bought the one piece MD2 and HD v3 from, I got a cool older Bravo with M60F module in it/ low pro bezel.
Well I fired it up and notice a green glow after turning it off. I haven't taken it apart yet, but it has a glow in the dark gasket. it's pretty cool, never seen this but that's not saying much as I have way too much to learn. sorry if this should be posted in the elzetta thread, just thought it fit since I'm talking about the M60F setup

qQDvK5Q.jpg
 

INFRNL

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TV showing crap. You need a special chemical agent applied to see blood in UV. Normally blood is black in UV.

Now I'm going to have to try this. I believe you though as blood dries really dark anyway.




On a side note, I keep forgetting to mention: I have been communicating a little with Craig (illumn) the past few days. According to his last response, he will hopefully be pushing the 219B order. Here is his last response:
"[FONT=&quot]Hi Phillip,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Understood! I'll be pushing for getting this project going ahead quicker, then.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Craig S.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Illumination Supply LLC[/FONT][FONT=&quot]"

Now, Gary said he will be stopping by there soon, hopefully we will get some 219b products available in a decent time frame. However, I am not sure exactly how this will play out since we wiped Gene out of stock and things haven't been restocking yet. There have been a few items but not modules/lights. Hopefully stock will show up on both ends fairly soon.[/FONT]
 

Swedpat

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Here is Hot vs T on the same chart. T test finished. Currently testing HOT on rayovac primaries:thumbsup:

Keep in mind that this was a one time test but it should gives us an idea. If i reran the test, I imagine it would be similar; only thing changing is output a little.

I forgot to mention, The HOT ran for an additional 12+hrs even though it may have not been exactly useful output. It died while I was sleeping. according to the data logger, the T didn't make it past 15hrs.


aAf2npT.jpg

Thanks for the very valuable runtime graph! It seems that T and HOT have very similar lumen-hours which is a bit surprising taking the first 80min output difference in consider. Still I think the perceived brightness difference is pretty subtle for the eyes. After ~120min and 2hours after that the T is much brighter, though. Therefore I think T would be my choice.
 
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Woods Walker

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It would be good if that gets done. I was looking at the M61LLL which should be 50 lumens for 10 hours and the M31LL which should be 50 lumens for maybe 5? not sure. If these were Cree LEDS XP-G they would be brighter. Ok the Nichia does make the scared bacon look nice (that's no small thing) and the tint snobs go plant of the apes crazy for those color charts but not sure it's any better than CW for outdoors use. Still it would be the only game in town for for LLL/LL and I got a G2 and MD3 looking for an engine.
 

Greenbean

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but not sure it's any better than CW for outdoors use.

You referring to the lower output modules?

Because I can tell a huge difference between two generations of MagCharger modules, one pretty neutral and the other almost snow white. Both are XM-L2s.

In my back yard I have about 40 yards to a white shed with black shingles and shrubs and such all around it. The color difference is astonishing.

When it comes to lower lumens I think my aging eyes like brightness over CRI, but sometimes I find that sweet paring of both and want to carry it for a while.
 
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INFRNL

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Here are the initial results for the HOT on rayovac primaries single run test as usual. Still running but not using data logger. Put the T on data logger now. I think the graph will give you the general idea of what to expect.

23an9Z9.jpg

tfojuHc.jpg
 
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INFRNL

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Thanks for the very valuable runtime graph! It seems that T and HOT have very similar lumen-hours which is a bit surprising taking the first 80min output difference in consider. Still I think the perceived brightness difference is pretty subtle for the eyes. After ~120min and 2hours after that the T is much brighter, though. Therefore I think T would be my choice.

I wish I could also include beamshots as well. Indoors at approx 20ft-ish range, I see no difference in beam profile. However ModernFlame says he like the beam of the HOT better. I guess it depends on what exactly someone wants.
I can probably also agree that the first 1hr 50mins that you have more output from the HOT is probably minimal to the eyes, but as you said and we can see; T has a much better curve after that 1hr 50min mark. This is also continuous runtime too which most will not use like this. except maybe our friend Woods, but he uses just the amount of light he needs for his runs, no sense in messing with a persons night vision.

I imagine the T will behave similar to li-ion on primary test as the Hot seemed to do. The one other advantage of the T is MD3. That test will be tomorrow but we shouldn't expect too much since it relies on the first cell to cutoff. So we can expect higher output for a certain time then nothing.

It would be good if that gets done. I was looking at the M61LLL which should be 50 lumens for 10 hours and the M31LL which should be 50 lumens for maybe 5? not sure. If these were Cree LEDS XP-G they would be brighter. Ok the Nichia does make the scared bacon look nice (that's no small thing) and the tint snobs go plant of the apes crazy for those color charts but not sure it's any better than CW for outdoors use. Still it would be the only game in town for for LLL/LL and I got a G2 and MD3 looking for an engine.

Sounds like we need to find you a couple engines;) but you are right, for what you are looking for (unless Gene is hiding a secret) you will be limited to 219b.

I wonder if an M61LL with modified H/L putting [email protected] would work for you. If I had a M61LL I could test it for you and do a runtime comparison. I do not think I have any LL modules...

ok, the secret is starting to come out of the bag...
I just looked and I do have an M61NLL and M61WLL. I will see what I need to get these to run at half output on H/L ring to give you an idea of what can be expected from a M61LL modified to work as a M61LLL. Not sure if it would be close enough to the real deal, but we will get an idea.

I will try to get you results by the weekend.
 

INFRNL

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Now I have to check my M60 and M60F modules for GITD gaskets! :twothumbs
<<<removed content EDIT: ok, I just went and did the easy thing...took it apart. It is an o-ring. I'm thinking the original owner changed it out. Makes more sense now cause he also put some on the outside of the HD v3 i got from him. I feel like :stupid:
well at least I had ya going, I guess. sorry to get you excited about my stupidity for the day:ohgeez:
emk7QfI.jpg








@Woods: I had a nice message typed out to post but it got lost in translation (when I went to post)
I had specs for all the M61LL/LLL varients posted with runtimes/current draw.

Just let me know what output you want to duplicate and i will run a runtime test on the M61NLL in low mode duplicating the output of your choice. 30, 40, 50lm?

If I remember, I will try to repost tomorrow
 
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