The Official Zebralight Thread .

WalkIntoTheLight

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I wonder if the cold weather issue would persist if a cold specific battery was used. There are some lithium ion 18650 with less capacity designed for colder weather use.

I've tested it with all kinds of batteries, from low drain to high drain. The battery doesn't seem to make any difference. It's the driver, it doesn't like the cold on H1. Note, the problem doesn't happen all the time, and once the light is warmed up (just takes a couple of seconds on H2), it goes away completely. So, while it's an annoying problem, it's not a game-stopper.

Since Zebralight has stopped shipping to anywhere other than the US, it's probably going to only affect Alaskan people. :ironic:
 

Rhodie

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I read in another forum that the tint is greenish in color? It's advertised as NW with a CRI 90+ rating? Any truth to the Greenish in color comment? Thanks.
 

WebHobbit

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It DOES have a slightly greenish corona but I generally only notice it on a very white surface...or when directly comparing it to other lights. It's a problem with a LOT of modern CREE LEDs
 

Derek Dean

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I read in another forum that the tint is greenish in color? It's advertised as NW with a CRI 90+ rating? Any truth to the Greenish in color comment? Thanks.
EVERY single LED based light I've gotten that has been listed as "neutral", with a color balance of 4500k to 5000k, has had a greenish tint, and that goes for all brands of lights. Maybe I'm just more sensitive to it, but I've solved the problem by simply adding a magenta filter to every new light I get.
 

Rhodie

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EVERY single LED based light I've gotten that has been listed as "neutral", with a color balance of 4500k to 5000k, has had a greenish tint, and that goes for all brands of lights. Maybe I'm just more sensitive to it, but I've solved the problem by simply adding a magenta filter to every new light I get.

Then maybe the Nitchia Led's are an outlier whereas the Acebeam RK18 is pure white to my eyes, great for inspecting underneath a tractor seeing if the leak you might observe is either motor oil or coolant. Not slamming ZebraLight. I may pick up the SC700d, just trying to get a feel for the tint before I plunk down $120.


Thanks for your replies...
 

Fespe

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EVERY single LED based light I've gotten that has been listed as "neutral", with a color balance of 4500k to 5000k, has had a greenish tint, and that goes for all brands of lights. Maybe I'm just more sensitive to it, but I've solved the problem by simply adding a magenta filter to every new light I get.
Can I ask you what kind of specific filter do you use? By the way I order the sc700d. If I hadn't hurry I wouldn't be able to get it! It's already sold out on Nkon.

Inviato dal mio Mi 9T utilizzando Tapatalk
 

burntoshine

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Yup. I've brought up this problem, before. In my case, it affects all my zebras using the XHP35 HI emitter. It turns off from H1, in cold weather. That's what you get when you try to use a light in cold weather, that was designed and tested in Texas summer. Lots of others have complained about this problem, too. They clearly have a driver design problem with some of their models.

So, my pal was just experiencing this cold weather problem with his H600W (mkii, i think) using a AW 18650. The light gave 3 flashes with the four-click capacity test. He said it was 12 degrees outside and it would immediately step down from high to low. Later the light worked at full power with the same battery when it was at a warmer temperature.

Can anyone recommend a 18650 that works best in ZLs; for cold weather, but in general, too? I bought a couple ones based on a recommendation on CPF a few years ago, but am unsure as to what it was I bought; possibly a sony - they're green with a white label that reads "18650 3000mah 3.7V".

Thanks bunches in advance!

cheers
 

likethevegetable

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I have the issue of H1 "tripping" to a low level with about 3.7 V left in my H600Fc IV. No issues observed with my SC64w HI, even at -30C.

For 18650, can't go wrong with NCR18650GA (3500 mAh). For cold weather, I suspect Sony VTC6 would be what you mention.
 

dydx

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I have the issue of H1 "tripping" to a low level with about 3.7 V left in my H600Fc IV. No issues observed with my SC64w HI, even at -30C.

For 18650, can't go wrong with NCR18650GA (3500 mAh). For cold weather, I suspect Sony VTC6 would be what you mention.

Good luck....I've NCR18650GA, fully charged, in my H6000c Mk IV, minus 5°F this morning.....instant step down. Doubt the battery hypothesis.
 

Connor

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-20°C is well out of the "comfort zone" of a NCR18650GA, though .. as soon as this battery goes below 0°C (actual cell temperature) it gets pretty weak.
 
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Derek Dean

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Can I ask you what kind of specific filter do you use? By the way I order the sc700d. If I hadn't hurry I wouldn't be able to get it! It's already sold out on Nkon.

Inviato dal mio Mi 9T utilizzando Tapatalk
I started off by getting a Lee Filter Swatch book (the Designer edition), with is a neat little deal that has about 200 or so different color swatches of gel material, with each one measuring about 1.25" x 3.25", so big enough to cut out 2 or 3 circles and place over the front glass of the light. These are also made by Roscolux and Cinegel. Here is an example, but look around, as you can often find them for less:

https://www.cinemagadgets.com/leeswatchbook.html

These are neat because you can play with the different amounts of filtration, so just a little, or a bit more color correction, plus many of them also have swatches of diffusion material that is good for softening the light, so making a light floodier.

If you can remove the bezel, you just cut to size, place under the glass, and put the bezel back on. If the bezel doesn't come off, simply cut to size and attach with a tiny piece of double sided tape in the middle.

Personally, I've found that almost all my lights look better with either a minus 1/4 green or minus 1/2 green filter (which are magenta filters), so ended up purchasing a 21" x 24" square and just cut out what I need because remember, you'll only get 2 or 3 circles from each swatch in the swatch book, and most of the colors you won't be using. By the way, you can stack filters, so stacking two -1/4 green filters is equal to one -1/2 green filter. And do remember, adding any filter will decrease light output, but with most of today's high powered lights that is rarely a problem.

https://www.cinemagadgets.com/31-lee-s249.html

https://www.cinemagadgets.com/31-lee-s248.htm

One other thing. Lee has a new filter material specifically made for LEDs. I believe it's the Zircon series, and I think it's more heat resistant (but also a bit more expensive). I've never tried it, but I've never had any problems with the regular filter material on my 2300 lumen lights, but if interested, you can read all about it on the Lee Filter website:

https://www.leefilters.com/lighting/zircon.html
 

Fespe

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I started off by getting a Lee Filter Swatch book (the Designer edition), with is a neat little deal that has about 200 or so different color swatches of gel material, with each one measuring about 1.25" x 3.25", so big enough to cut out 2 or 3 circles and place over the front glass of the light. These are also made by Roscolux and Cinegel. Here is an example, but look around, as you can often find them for less:

https://www.cinemagadgets.com/leeswatchbook.html

These are neat because you can play with the different amounts of filtration, so just a little, or a bit more color correction, plus many of them also have swatches of diffusion material that is good for softening the light, so making a light floodier.

If you can remove the bezel, you just cut to size, place under the glass, and put the bezel back on. If the bezel doesn't come off, simply cut to size and attach with a tiny piece of double sided tape in the middle.

Personally, I've found that almost all my lights look better with either a minus 1/4 green or minus 1/2 green filter (which are magenta filters), so ended up purchasing a 21" x 24" square and just cut out what I need because remember, you'll only get 2 or 3 circles from each swatch in the swatch book, and most of the colors you won't be using. By the way, you can stack filters, so stacking two -1/4 green filters is equal to one -1/2 green filter. And do remember, adding any filter will decrease light output, but with most of today's high powered lights that is rarely a problem.

https://www.cinemagadgets.com/31-lee-s249.html

https://www.cinemagadgets.com/31-lee-s248.htm

One other thing. Lee has a new filter material specifically made for LEDs. I believe it's the Zircon series, and I think it's more heat resistant (but also a bit more expensive). I've never tried it, but I've never had any problems with the regular filter material on my 2300 lumen lights, but if interested, you can read all about it on the Lee Filter website:

https://www.leefilters.com/lighting/zircon.html
Thank you! For sure I'm going to try some of this filters after I play a little bit wit the flashlight!

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SubLGT

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Lee has a new filter material specifically made for LEDs. I believe it's the Zircon series, and I think it's more heat resistant (but also a bit more expensive). I've never tried it, but I've never had any problems with the regular filter material on my 2300 lumen lights, but if interested, you can read all about it on the Lee Filter website:

Here is an interesting little filter durability test:
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/75045

....After putting an eight minus green filter on a H600Fc IV I saw it losing its effect quite rapidly, like after one or two runtimes. This prompted me to switch to Zircon filters as they are supposed to be more durable.

Since then I got a spectrophotometer so I decided to test their durability....
 
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