The Official Zebralight Thread .

Bob_McBob

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For SC700 enthusiasts, here's a 3500K dedomed XHP70.3. Nice evenly tinted beam and negative Duv throughout the entire output range. A considerable improvement over the original XHP70.2.

H1 M1 L1:

CCT = 3551K (Duv -0.0007)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 90.7 [ R9 = 58.7 ]

CCT = 3348K (Duv -0.0009)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 93.6 [ R9 = 68.8 ]

CCT = 3343K (Duv -0.0005)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.1 [ R9 = 70.4 ]00:25 AM

PXL_20220518_182937464.MP.jpg

P5184472 (1).JPG

P5194480.JPG
 

twistedraven

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What is the difference between a dedomed XHP70.3 vs a factory XHP70.3 HI?

Also, where do I send my money?
 

Bob_McBob

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What is the difference between a dedomed XHP70.3 vs a factory XHP70.3 HI?

Also, where do I send my money?
The difference is I can produce an LED with a tint like that rather than the 0.0045-0.0060 I've measured from the few available high CRI XHP70.3 HI. Same with XHP50.3 HI. The only issue it's difficult to get much over 4000K through dedoming, so for the SC700 the best options so far are 3500K and 4000K. Plenty of options if you don't mind green tint, but the whole point for me was to get a neutral to rosy tint and clean even beam.

This wasn't intended to be an advertisement, but feel free to PM me. These are a little pricey given the cost of the original light and a new XHP70.3, but it's a pretty huge improvement unless you really don't notice the Cree rainbow on the original light.
 

Derek Dean

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Nicely done, Bob, but a minus green filter cleans up the beam on my original SC700 just fine, and to be honest I tend to prefer a wider beam profile, but it's nice that you've been able to get your SC700 to where you like it. The SC700 is such a useful light.
 

twistedraven

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I'm sure there'll eventually be rosy binned XHP70.3 HIs out there eventually. That 5000k dedomed is a little too warm for my tastes. Minus green filters are great as well, but they don't get rid of the CREE rainbows.

I was at one point in time looking at the SC700D as a new EDC workhorse, but I'm waiting for Hank to get 519As in so I can get some dedomed ones in a KR4.

Amazing work though!
 

J_C_S

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Ordered my first zebralight, an SC64c LE. Any recommendations on battery?
 

brachypelma44

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my choice:

So, this battery has a slightly higher capacity (better runtime) but only has an 8A continuous discharge. Depending on the draw of your light on the highest setting that you actually use, that may or may not be a problem. Another thing to consider is whether or not that battery will ever be put into other devices in the future, and if those devices are also going to draw 8A or less. Totally depends on your situation.

All of my Zebras seem to work on flat tops. Not sure if button top would fit or not.
 
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KITROBASKIN

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8A or 10A should be fine. Doubtful anyone could demonstrate impaired performance in everyday use. Test graphs do not always jive with what the eyes perceive.

It is easy to order a GA from ZL for a decent price.

Illumn is a good choice for purchasing batteries. Orbtronic is another option.
 

raggie33

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if this help i have both sanyo reds and sony green vtc5a the sonys was brighter in my emisar dv42
 

Duster1671

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if this help i have both sanyo reds and sony green vtc5a the sonys was brighter in my emisar dv42
Yup, that is a light that will eat as much current as you can feed it. A VTC5A will be brighter than a GA.

Zebralights only draw as much current as the driver needs, so any battery that meets that minimum will work fine.
 

brachypelma44

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8A or 10A should be fine. Doubtful anyone could demonstrate impaired performance in everyday use. Test graphs do not always jive with what the eyes perceive.
AFAIK, it depends if the light in question only draws a specific amount of current, or if it will allow more if it's available (in which case you'll get higher output.)

It's also a good thing to think about the future, and what devices that battery will be put in throughout its lifetime, and what their performance might be with the battery in them. There's no such thing as future-proofing, but you can sort of future-resist!
 

KITROBASKIN

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Any claims that purport to say one (fully charged, good condition) quality battery is effectively brighter in a flashlight than another (fully charged, good condition) quality battery of similar design, is highly likely to be based on sketchy belief unless specific, accurate test equipment is used that reports a substantial increase. There is no way a person can discern the difference by looking at the light produced, then removing a battery and inserting another battery and eyeballing the difference. It also simply won't be enough to make any practical difference in actual use. Rapid heating will reduce the brightness soon enough.

LED/battery technology at this point is pretty evolved. Unless something big pops up, just not sure a battery rated for 8A continuous is going to be a pitiful loser compared to a 10A continuous. It is easy to forget but important to remember that when using flashlights up to maximum levels , they are going to be limited by resistant spring(s) and circuits with internal heat buildup. Now if anyone wants to bring forth solid test data demonstrating this post is erroneous... otherwise we're engaging in mere claptrap. (Apologies if you all are just kind-of chatting-it-up informally)
 

J_C_S

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Whoa this thing is tiny for an 18650 light! I get the appeal! One question, is it normal when quick pressing once to high for the light to step up quickly from low to high? It’s so fast it’s hard to notice but it seems to step up to high from a lower brightness.
 
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