The Official Zebralight Thread .

jon_slider

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Zebralights are potted, which contributes to their durability.

Zebralights can be modified (LED swap, driver swap, addition of Aux lights), and then repotted.
 

chillinn

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Just get an HDS Rotary.
Just as soon as HDS designs an efficient constant current driver and begins using warmer 3500K HiCRI LED, and a smooth bezel, I absolutely will. But I'm not paying that much just to have all too common and pedestrian cool color temperature LED, and PWM along with its accompanying migraines, and a purposeless vanity bezel with scallops.
 

lampeDépêche

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And because you never know what lumen output you get, it's impossible to estimate runtime at a particular brightness.

Yes, yes, and yes. One thing we know about humans is that their eyes always want more light. Whatever light level you are at, you will always be tempted to nudge it up a bit. You think you only need 1 lumen, but you adjust it to 5 lumens without knowing it. And then you burn through your battery that much quicker.
Compare people who add sugar to their coffee one spoonful at a time, versus people who just tip the sugar dispenser and let it pour. Their tongues always want more sugar, and counting the spoonfuls is the only thing that regulates their usage. The people who pour will pour out more.
 
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radellaf

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Frankly, apart from curiosity, knowing the lumens and estimated runtime just doesn't factor into my day-to-day flashlight use.

For normal use: I just want the right light level with minimum time and clicks, and minimum time looking at too-high outputs.

So, depending how it is done, a ramp is fine. Click or hold on, click to ramp. Often I'm not sure which direction the ramp is gonna go, and yeah, it's easy to over or under-shoot and have to "correct" once or twice. ZL rarely is exactly what I want, either, so I have to settle for the closest brightness. On the SC53, I find that M2 is WAY dimmer than M1, and that's right where I want an intermediate level.

Generally, tho ZL's interface is a fine compromise. I'm used to it, and I get close to what I want more quickly, and if I'm turning it off and on, it's easier to get to where I want. I can't set a L,M,H in Anduril that aren't evenly spaced, much less a L,M,H where an action will toggle between two brightnesses, which can be useful.
OTOH, Anduril never blinds me with a high when I want a low. Yes, I know I could program a ZL to M,H,L or something, but I like one-click H. Neither is perfect.

Still, I'd love to have a couple of Anduril ZLs. Hardly necessary, as I have a pile of Emisars (and a few Sofirn, etc.) I can use my favorite mode with: candle.
 

chillinn

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For normal use: I just want the right light level with minimum time and clicks, and minimum time looking at too-high outputs.

Don't you find that getting the right light level the first time is rare? Isn't more common to adjust a few times to dial in on it? I believe the choice of any light level typically adds more time to the exercise than to just clicking once or twice.
 

radellaf

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Don't you find that getting the right light level the first time is rare? Isn't more common to adjust a few times to dial in on it? I believe the choice of any light level typically adds more time to the exercise than to just clicking once or twice.

"minimum time and clicks" -- that is, indeed, rarely the first action (click, double click, click-hold, just hold, etc).
It's a good question if Anduril or ZL gets me to that level quicker. Both are decent, and depending on the situation, one can be easier/quicker than the other.


If I had a gripe about Anduril, no matter how configured, it's the same gripe I have about a lot of new tech with lots of functions and inadequate/incomplete visibility of the state of the system: it's possible to get into a state where you changed something, you may or may not know what caused the change, and you don't know what will undo the change.
That... does not happen with ZL. There's no lockout, as one very simple example.
I have ramping lights with a simplified interface where you can toggle steps to ramps, but never remember what does that, and end up checking the manual for how to get back. Configuring the ramp, or the temperature, or whatever... I was really into that for months, now I'd have to read a text description of how, since the little diagram isn't doing it for me.
ZL? I haven't read the manual for YEARS. I've had periods of a year where I may not have used a ZL. Pick one up? I know how it works. It's just simpler. That's good and bad.
 

Connor

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My main gripe with the ZL UI is: no double-click to high/turbo when the light is already on, you always have to go through some of the other levels first. Ofc you could set the G6/7 secondary all to turbo but that's not really a good solution either.
 

chillinn

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My main gripe with the ZL UI is: no double-click to high/turbo when the light is already on

That's really not possible with ZL's interface. Double click while on toggles between the two submodes. If double click went to Turbo, how would you toggle between submodes?

There is a triple click to turbo while on, but it's more like click (pause) double click.
 

defloyd77

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Don't you find that getting the right light level the first time is rare? Isn't more common to adjust a few times to dial in on it? I believe the choice of any light level typically adds more time to the exercise than to just clicking once or twice.

I have no more trouble with a ramping UI getting a desirable level than I do with a Zebra. I can't even count how many times since I got my SC53C N I meant to get it in one mode, only to mistime it and get strobe instead. Also, what if I'm in medium and want a high mode(in default Zebra UI)? I either have to turn the light off and then back on or press and hold and cycle LMH and I'd have the same problem if I reprogrammed it to be HML and wanted to use low.

Not to mention going slightly over your intended light level isn't that big of a deal since it's not going to be that much brighter or that much lower. More time? What, a whole second? Anduril has mode memory, which usually for me is saved as a middle of the ramp level. If I need something dim, I just press and hold from off. Need a lot of light? Double click from off. Most importantly I don't have to go dimmer to go brighter or turn off my light entirely which not only saves time, but prevents me from being in the dark, even if it is just for a moment.
 

chillinn

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You've just rationalized away the original point you were trying to make, that the ramping UI is simpler and faster.

You can just like it without inventing reasons. That's allowed.
 

radellaf

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You've just rationalized away the original point you were trying to make, that the ramping UI is simpler and faster.

You can just like it without inventing reasons. That's allowed.
What? That was not my original point. And this is not a philosophical debate.
 

chillinn

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It is a debate. You have an argument. It goes something like this, "smooth ramping is better than ZL's interface." You're trying to support this argument. "It's more efficient to ramp to a light level than press a button a up to four times." You're defending your argument that smooth ramping is better with your responses, even though this is the Zebralight thread and some are getting annoyed. When anyone makes an argument, for me it's like a bell ringing, and I come out swinging.
 

defloyd77

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It is a debate. You have an argument. It goes something like this, "smooth ramping is better than ZL's interface." You're trying to support this argument. "It's more efficient to ramp to a light level than press a button a up to four times." You're defending your argument that smooth ramping is better with your responses, even though this is the Zebralight thread and some are getting annoyed. When anyone makes an argument, for me it's like a bell ringing, and I come out swinging.

So because this is a Zebralight thread, people can only debate if that debate is pro everything Zebralight?

You argued against ramping and guess what, everyone else came out of swinging just like you, except we're bad because we're not falling in line.

"Some are getting annoyed." That's the to entire Internet in a nutshell. If you get annoyed that easily, you might want to go offline.
 

Megalamuffin

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Impulse buy one the new sc53c with 4000k 519a. Glad I did. This is a tiny light and the 519a looks really great.

7A7C2D0E-8861-457E-81BC-49B0ED99F5DF.jpeg


So far there is no redundancy in my zebralight stable.

A3DFCDC6-4F76-49AB-AB12-B29CE2F0A998.jpeg
 

chillinn

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So because this is a Zebralight thread, people can only debate if that debate is pro everything Zebralight?
That's the entire point of having a thread with a topic. If you want to discuss, say, the switch on a Maglite, that's really fantastic, but it's off topic and annoying. Here's a suggestion, and I'm not talking to just you, start a new thread to opine about other topics rather than derail existing threads.
 

Lips

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So, how much more bandwidth is going to be wasted discussing a UI that ZL doesn't have in a ZL thread?

Zebra responded to email, late May or early June for the new SC64 Hi 719A. Gotta kill some Mick Jagger time with useless information!


My main gripe with the ZL UI is: no double-click to high/turbo when the light is already on, you always have to go through some of the other levels first. Ofc you could set the G6/7 secondary all to turbo but that's not really a good solution either.

True; Even the old Mr. Bulk (2006) lights had latch full brightness from lower levels.

Anduril 2 has low level weakness of sub-lumen on hold or setting a floor to a higher level and no way to get bellow that.

Useless Information - Toykeeper wrote code in 2016 named DarkHorse that mimics Zebra UI before Anduril was written.

.
 

this_is_nascar

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So because this is a Zebralight thread, people can only debate if that debate is pro everything Zebralight?

You argued against ramping and guess what, everyone else came out of swinging just like you, except we're bad because we're not falling in line.

"Some are getting annoyed." That's the to entire Internet in a nutshell. If you get annoyed that easily, you might want to go offline.
My comment and displeasure is scrolling thru dozens of post in a thread that's supposed to be about ZL, discussing a UI that it doesn't have, but it's suggested that I just move on apparently. If I'm a jerk"off for that, than so be it.
 

desert.snake

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A concrete floor covered with vinyl is not accurate for flashlight testing. Need a normal concrete, stone, metal or tile floor. I have a pair of zebras - for head and fot hand. I always worry about hand zebra glass as there is too little material to cover it. I don't think the flashlight will break if it gets a few good hits on the side of the bezel, but how will its water resistance change? Therefore, HDS is always paired with a Zebra, and with SF 6PX and a couple of smaller lanterns. The HDS bezel is not useless, it is durable and protects the glass from damage and at the same time maintains water resistance. I've dropped my Clicky many times on concrete and steel, there are quite a few dents, but it still works and remains waterproof (for my use). Rotary - I still do not really trust her in terms of water resistance of the swivel tail.

Predicting the future is a very difficult thing, yet few people succeed, even meteorologists with all modern instruments and satellites. I think it's the same with batteries. No person will be able to accurately determine the remaining flashlight time if they use several levels alternately, no matter - fixed or smooth. Only the processor in the flashlight can make it more accurately, and it will also not be accurate and does not predict the future, but only shows the current state except Nitecore. It can give a forecast in terms of running time, but it gives it on the basis of assumptions about the external environment embedded in it or the assumptions of the developers when they wrote this program. If the ambient temperature drops or rises too much, the operating time may change dramatically. Especially if the flashlight has a temperature-controlled brightness control.


The Nitecore in the TM series has a screen that can more or less accurately show the time, but with the proviso that it is configured for batteries with a certain capacity. H17Fx quite accurately reads the voltage on the battery. In Lupine, the processor constantly counts how much mAh was spent, but sometimes it makes a mistake if the flashlight was disconnected from charging before it was fully charged. But none still gives good accuracy. Alternatively, it would be possible to create a driver that could set the lamp's operating time, for example, 1 hour at one level, 10 hours at the second level, 1000 hours at the third level. Next, the timer starts and the flashlight will do everything to keep this time, that is, if the environmental conditions or the state of the battery change, it will regulate the light flux itself so that the battery is empty and turns off exactly by specified time. The flashlight also needs to detect the state of the battery that is placed in it, so as not just to follow the timer, but to change the timer 1 time based on the state of the battery just inserted. Accordingly, it must be able to work as a high-level battery analyzer. For example, if a battery with 50% charge is put in it, it will change the timer from 1000 hours to 500 hours and start counting from that moment. And he must have a screen that will show the information, or a radio link with a computer to show the data. In my opinion, this is redundant for flashlights, it is enough to carry spare batteries with you or a spare flashlight with spare batteries and always use the light sparingly and economically. And the systems for accurately determining the remaining operating time should be left to the mars/moon-rovers and satellites.

If Zebra made a version with a normally protected glass - a powerful steel bezel on a thread, so that it protrudes above the glass by at least 5 mm and 2 mm outside the diameter, and the button ring is also threaded, and powerful springs to fit batteries of different lengthsthen, that would be great! As well as thicker walls everywhere. But I'm already describing the Convoy))) The only thing that the Convoys are inferior to the zebras is the driver and the heat sink. In a zebra, it is better due to the one-piece body. But Convoy has a better selection of LEDs and maintainability.

As for control - control of 1 button will always have compromises and you will have to choose either one type or some of the others. 2 control buttons already gives more space. Better yet, have 5 buttons and a swivel magnetic ring - you can set up a smooth change in brightness with a button, instant access to the desired level from the off or running level, access to fixed levels by turning the ring, etc. But this obviously will not physically fit on a small lamp + it will be really expensive, respectively, there will be little sales and losses for the company. Maybe multi-button control can be organized in a smartphone, some kind of application for controlling an LED in a phone so that you can have both smooth and discrete levels, etc., but I think such an application would not be bought due to the fact that it no one needs a weak LED with complex management in the phone.

I don't like Anduril because there is no blocking the entrance to programming, as on HDS, HIVE on McGizmo, H17FX and some others. If you could make the necessary changes and then block so that the uninitiated (or I forgot the instructions) could not change anything, that would be good. Zebra also doesn't have a programming lock now, I don't like it either, but it's tolerable, since I can quickly change everything back if someone changes the settings, if I remember how I set it up :grin2:
 
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