The Official Zebralight Thread .

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Mr. LED said:
The tailcap spring has a sharp edge and scratches the battery negative pole like crazy. The SC64w HI spring tip is slightly bent inwards, I'll try to bend the SC65c HI spring as well.
Click to expand...

yeah wtf, i noticed that as well. lmk if you have good luck fixing it.
 
I was foolin around with SC65 and SC64LE. Swapping emitters was fun.
Now 65 has 5000k and it's amazing while LE got special order 519A 5700k which truely is 5700K.
IMG_8726.jpeg

IMG_8727.jpeg

IMG_8728.jpeg

L-65, R-LE


IMG_8730.jpeg

L-65, R-LE
IMG_8720.jpeg

SC65


IMG_8724.jpeg

SC64LE
 
ohio72 said:
timmcmahon.com.au

ZebraLight H53Fc N Nichia 519A Headlamp Review

The ZebraLight H53Fc N is a lightweight AA sized headlamp that can either be carried on its own or used in a headband. What's so special about this headlamp?
timmcmahon.com.au timmcmahon.com.au
Click to expand...
Thanks for linking this. I was actually looking at that article last night. It has a couple of measure mode levels and runtimes, but not all 12 levels. It does list the output and runtime from the older XP-L2 model but not sure how closely that would mirror the newer Nichia model.
 
gurdygurds said:
output levels and runtimes for the H53C N?
Click to expand...
I have not found any info for that model, only what you saw from Tim McMahon for the version with Frosted lens.

there is a little bit of info for the clear lens SC53C N here

fwiw the XP-L2 model has a 25 lumen M2, whereas the Nichia model has a 7 lumen M2... so you cant really go by the XP-L2 runtime specs, because the output spacing has changed on the Nichia model..

> It does list the output and runtime from the older XP-L2 model but not sure how closely that would mirror the newer Nichia model.

not really comparable
for example M1 runs 2.5 hours longer on the XP-L2 model..

maybe if you write to Zebralight, it could encourage them to post the specs
 
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I suspect the Nichia 519 and XP-L2 have quite different efficiencies, so don't judge the SC53N runtime or lumen rating based on the SC53c. I'll try to measure both models currents on all levels and will report back.
 
This little SC53c N is a winner.
Been packing it around for a bit, nice tint.
Really like this tiny AA light, recommended.

Programmed it like this to keep it simple:

G5: Default
- - - - -
G6 & G7 :
1-click: Long Press: 2-clicks:
L1=4 ....... M1=7 ....... H1=11
L2=4 ....... M2=7 ....... H2=11

Sample size comparison:
zl-hds.png
 
Odd that they don't at least have output levels posted, and why they would wait until after the light is selling to provide specs but whatever.
indigon said:
This little SC53c N is a winner.
Been packing it around for a bit, nice tint.
Really like this tiny AA light, recommended.

Programmed it like this to keep it simple:

G5: Default
- - - - -
G6 & G7 :
1-click: Long Press: 2-clicks:
L1=4 ....... M1=7 ....... H1=11
L2=4 ....... M2=7 ....... H2=11

Sample size comparison:
View attachment 49484
Click to expand...
I agree, it's a great light although I just traded mine to get into an Sc5c MKII LE. Just like the chunky knurled body. Comparing it to my h53c N, the Nichia is the better led as far as tint goes but the lh351d is pretty efficient from what I've read. Will I notice that efficiency in real life? I'm not so sure I would. I will say that the headlamp versions rule as far as versatility goes. They're good as handheld lights, can be clipped to clothing for hands free and of course with the head strap. H53c could easily be my only light. Also runs AAA without any adapters or spacers needed. Thought this was pretty cool from the article posted above…farmer's edc light for 3 years….
 

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indigon said:
G6 & G7 :
1-click: Long Press: 2-clicks:
L1=4 ....... M1=7 ....... H1=11
L2=4 ....... M2=7 ....... H2=11
Click to expand...
so the outputs you chose are 1.5, 31 and 430 lumens..

question, when you are in G6 or G7, with your new programming,

if you hold the button does the light still cycle from Low, to Medium, to High? (as it does in G5) or do the customised modes cycle in a different order? (for example Low, High, Medium)
 
jon_slider said:
so the outputs you chose are 1.5, 31 and 430 lumens..

question, when you are in G6 or G7, with your new programming,

if you hold the button does the light still cycle from Low, to Medium, to High? (as it does in G5) or do the customised modes cycle in a different order? (for example Low, High, Medium)
Click to expand...
Roughly 1 - 25 - 240 lumens with a NiMH battery, the new SC53c N specs aren't out yet from ZL. Yes mine scrolls low - med - high in G6 & G7.

This is fairly close to what I get with a NiMH:
sc53cbl.png
 
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gurdygurds said:
farmer's edc light
Click to expand...
the lens is the Achiles Heel of the Zebralight design, it is only 1mm thick, and surrounded by a very thin bezel. As you can see, the lens is what breaks on a Zebra:
zebralight-h53fc-broken-lens-1.jpg
image from the Tim McMahon review

indigon said:
Yes mine scrolls low - med - high in G6 & G7
Click to expand...
thank you.. I must have done something wrong when I tried to program my first Zebra.. it would scroll low high medium.. I got so frustrated with the Zebra UI that I resold the light immediately, and went back to my Anduril lights, and HDS and Jetbeam Rotaries, all of which allow me access to scroll through the full range of outputs, not just 3, as in a Zebra.

The Zebra UI was just not my cup of tea. I had a lot of trouble with the timing of the hold command and the double clics. I often ended up in Strobe unintentionally, and had trouble accessing the low mode because I would hold the button to long and end up scrolling to medium or high.

I respect that a lot of people Love their Zebras, different strokes.. carry on ;-)
 
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jon_slider said:
the lens is the Achiles Heel of the Zebralight design, it is only 1mm thick, and surrounded by a very thin bezel. As you can see, the lens is what breaks on a Zebra:
View attachment 49519
image from the Tim McMahon review


thank you.. I must have done something wrong when I tried to program my first Zebra.. it would scroll low high medium.. I got so frustrated with the Zebra UI that I resold the light immediately, and went back to my Anduril lights, and HDS and Jetbeam Rotaries, all of which allow me access to scroll through the full range of outputs, not just 3, as in a Zebra.

The Zebra UI was just not my cup of tea. I had a lot of trouble with the timing of the hold command and the double clics. I often ended up in Strobe unintentionally, and had trouble accessing the low mode because I would hold the button to long and end up scrolling to medium or high.

I respect that a lot of people Love their Zebras, different strokes.. carry on ;-)
Click to expand...
I could be wrong, but seems like the frosted lens is more prone to breaking than the standard lens. I remember seeing photos of multiple frosted Zebras with cracked or shattered lenses. Not sure if there's something to that or not. Had a frosted lens on an older model but sold it pretty quick. I like the standard and folks will DC Fix them if they need more flood. I will at some point try the mule AA. Didn't realize that they're even smaller than the other headlamps.
 
This is a pair of SC53c N lights with MXG Gear titanium black powder deep carry clips installed. Seems to fit on most current Zebralights. Any Spyderco para 2-3 deep carry clip will work.

MXG Link

Other Clips

There is enough room under the MXG clip in the grooves for a Paracord constrictor knot lanyard which doesn't interfere with pocket carry if you are so inclined.

A deep carry clip should be the standard install from Zebralight along with a thicker lens and beefier bezel assy. that can survive a hard drop or two.. - JMHO.

sc53clan.jpg


- Edited to show clip fitted on SC65c HI / SC64c LE
sc65c_hi.jpg
 
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jon_slider said:
the lens is the Achiles Heel of the Zebralight design, it is only 1mm thick, and surrounded by a very thin bezel. As you can see, the lens is what breaks on a Zebra:
View attachment 49519
image from the Tim McMahon review


thank you.. I must have done something wrong when I tried to program my first Zebra.. it would scroll low high medium.. I got so frustrated with the Zebra UI that I resold the light immediately, and went back to my Anduril lights, and HDS and Jetbeam Rotaries, all of which allow me access to scroll through the full range of outputs, not just 3, as in a Zebra.

The Zebra UI was just not my cup of tea. I had a lot of trouble with the timing of the hold command and the double clics. I often ended up in Strobe unintentionally, and had trouble accessing the low mode because I would hold the button to long and end up scrolling to medium or high.

I respect that a lot of people Love their Zebras, different strokes.. carry on ;-)
Click to expand...
Doubling back to this topic, Zebralight in my experience has been pretty robust. I just knocked my H53C N from the top of my shower door,(about 6 and 1/2 ft) straight onto the tile floor. Smacked hard, never flickered or turned off. Ate it like a champ. No chips on the anodizing, just a mark where it hit and got smushed a bit. Hard to notice in person but you can see in the pic. Solid light!
 

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