The Official Zebralight Thread .

i can almost recall having a zebra aa light that was 550 lumens why don't they make something like it now?
Exactly, li ion battery tech was meant to be the future but looks like zl have decided longer running low outputs are better, I know I don't need 12 lumens for more than a few hours. People take batteries with them it's no big deal
 
I recently re-bought an H53FcN headlamp (I had gotten a defective one years ago) when they were clearancing them out recently...

The H54FcN is the new one, and is even more efficient.

If I was looking for an AA/14500 headlamp in 2025, I'd probably save the $30-40 and get a Skilhunt H150 instead of a H54FcN.

It's, of course, a matter of your preferences, and what you favor and disfavor.

Here is my logic:

Pros for the H150:
-The flood on the H150 is much, much wider (which is a pro OR a con, depending on what you need)
-The headband is lightyears better and more comfortable (I don't run the top strap)
-You can keep the clip mounted to the light while it's in the headband with the H150
-The button placement is much better
-COLORS!
-3 CCT's!
-On sale, you can almost get two for the price of one ZL
-Magnetic charging (This is a pro or a con, but I don't mind not having to remove the battery, and not having a port to eventually get filled with gunk, and you can still open it and charge the cell normally)


Pros for the H53FcN (or H54FcN):
-More efficient (not that the Skilhunt is bad; it is well regulated)
-Slightly smaller
-Throwier beam

Both have great beams, but if you're working with your hands, the H150 is amazing. If you're using it for walking/cycling, the ZL is likely better.

I know I'm blasphemous when I discuss quality and durability with and Zebralight... I fully acknowledge the durability/reliability metric is going to vary much more widely from person to person. It's all down to anectdotal evidence, and I understand that (heck, I bought another ZL, eventually). I have four H150's, and haven't had any issues with any of them. I've had two H53fcN's, and one was a complete turd. Both lights are one the better end of Chinese build quality, which is good. I haven't run into any major issues with having to warranty anything with Skilhunt, but they're in China, so I don't expect it'd go well. Dealing with the ZL warranty was one of the absolute worst CS experiences I'd ever had. I think the "Zebralight has a goofy UI" always sounds like people just don't like it, but mine behaved very erratically, and that ultimately ended up having to contact and deal with Zebralight. So, potted, goofy electronics is kind of a wash for me. I drop my H150's pretty often, and they've definetly fallen off my desk onto some cast iron free weights more times that I can count, and still no issues.

I tend to not place a lot of emphasis on durability of headlamps, anyway, because they are right on my forehead, so I tend to naturally shield my head from damage (while I tend to drop hand lights constantly, haha). So, for me, the durability/reliability aspect is a wash. I think both are perfectly fine choices, and I wouldn't be worried about either (to be fair to ZL, my new one worked correctly out of the box, and I haven't had any issues, yet).
Thanks I've never owned a skilhunt or heard much about them but I'll look them up and see. Personally I'd rather pay premium for premium products, I've had my zl for 10 years and they always work and look like the day I got them.
 
I was told that 14500 support was dropped once the extensive G6-G7 programming was introduced. The chip did not have enough storage to house both the new G6-G7 code and the code for 14500 detecting/switching logic.
 
Thanks I've never owned a skilhunt or heard much about them but I'll look them up and see. Personally I'd rather pay premium for premium products, I've had my zl for 10 years and they always work and look like the day I got them.
Headlamps are one of those things where there's not a TON of really high quality options. There are plenty of "better than average" ones, though.

And, like I said, I naturally protect my head from damage, so I find my headlamps CAN be way less robust than my other lights, with no issues.

If you REALLY want to get an ULTRA PREMIUM headlamp, check out Lucifer in Czechia. I don't think anyone makes a higher quality, more durable headlamp than they do. And, honestly, they're not that expensive. Their 18500 headlamp is abut $150 USD.

In fact, you've reminded me I need to get one of their headlamps. I'm sure it'll enhance the night time Pilsner drinking experience, too!
 
i can almost recall having a zebra aa light that was 550 lumens why don't they make something like it now?
The SC5c II LE goes to 475 lumens on its highest setting. Narrow beam too, so it throws well for the output. Standard 1.5V AA, no 3.7V compatibility. It steps down after a minute, and a partially discharged battery wont let it hit the high settings for more than a few seconds.

Still one of my favorite lights. It's an oddball for ZL. Somewhere between an AA size and a 18650 size. I don't think they used the body for any other model, and it was discontinued after one run. Wish they would have continued on with the concept. It has a very high CRI.
 
The SC5c II LE goes to 475 lumens on its highest setting. Narrow beam too, so it throws well for the output. Standard 1.5V AA, no 3.7V compatibility.

Have the SC5c II LE and run a Lith-Ion 3.7v Vapcell F12 button top with no problems for years...

I think all will run Lith Ion except the last batch-run of the SC53 and the new SC54...

IMG_9058 Copy.JPG
 
Have the SC5c II LE and run a Lith-Ion 3.7v Vapcell F12 button top with no problems for years...

I think all will run Lith Ion except the last batch-run of the SC53 and the new SC54...
That light was definitely advertised with a max input of 2.0v: https://www.zebralight.com/SC5c-Mk-...ral-White-High-CRI-Limited-Edition_p_246.html

I'm surprised that it works at all on li-ion and that the brightness levels are still usable.
Never tried before, but just used Fenix button top and it worked. Suprised. Seems to step down immidiately from H1 setting though. I'll have to give it a try with some other protected 3.6 14500s.

I've gotten 3.6V buttontops to work in a slew of AA zebras that they're not supposed to work in (including the SC53), but the performance always goes screwy while using them. Perhaps it's different for the SC5c II LE?
 
Last edited:

I've gotten 3.6V buttontops to work in a slew of AA zebras that they're not supposed to work in (including the SC53), but the performance always goes screwy while using them. Perhaps it's different for the SC5c II LE?

It's all documented in old post in this giant thread here and on Reddit... I started using Li Ion after others tested and figured it out. Nascar mentioned few post ago why they technically removed Li Ion support but they still work fine.

From my flawed memory:

The Sc5 has 4 inductors vs the Sc53 1 inductor and that's how it boost an Eneloop efficiently. Mr. Bob said the Sc5 is the hardest to Mod and the legs on the inductors are tiny and come off some times. I think the legs on mine have come loose as it doesn't boost an Eneloop very well. The driver has the same components as the Sc52 which will run Li Ion. It was tested and works just fine with a little higher output on H1 than on an Eneloop. The energy density of the Vapcell F12 (and now F15) allow you to hit the H1 max for 1 minute timer way more than an Eneloop.

On your Sc53 (as long as it is not from the last batch)
To have it run normal (and not go haywire) on a Li ion all you have to do is press the On/Off button to clear the capacitor when you change from an Eneloop to a Li ion. Take the Eneloop out then press the button. Put the Li ion in. Works as normal now. Going back to an Eneloop you don't have to do anything...


.
 
From my flawed memory:

The Sc5 has 4 inductors vs the Sc53 1 inductor and that's how it boost an Eneloop efficiently. Mr. Bob said the Sc5 is the hardest to Mod and the legs on the inductors are tiny and come off some times. I think the legs on mine have come loose as it doesn't boost an Eneloop very well. The driver has the same components as the Sc52 which will run Li Ion. It was tested and works just fine with a little higher output on H1 than on an Eneloop. The energy density of the Vapcell F12 (and now F15) allow you to hit the H1 max for 1 minute timer way more than an Eneloop.
The SC5 II and SC53 have completely different drivers. The reason the original SC53 driver works with Li-ion is because the boost converter supports Vin > Vout operation, along with the vestiges of firmware support retained from the SC52, which has the same driver. The boost converter the SC5 II uses isn't supposed to work like this, but well... it does. Absolutely no LVP though, so personally I would only use protected cells.

The SC5 II has four inductors because the LTC3425 is an unusual 4 phase boost converter. It will work fine with fewer inductors, but the efficiency goes down. I've opened many SC5 IIs and found one inductor disconnected or missing. I don't think it impacts the ability to boost a NiMH cell. However, I've come across lots of SC5 IIs that have issues with H1 and do not reach or maintain the advertised output, especially repeatedly. I actually thought I was damaging the drivers myself until I went through my inventory and found a couple with the same issue. I have several modded SC5 IIs kicking around here I keep meaning to sell as Li-ion only because I don't like the way they behave on AA.
 
Do two CR123a work in an 18650 Zebra?

I see the voltage range is specified as 2.7V to 6V. But a pair of new CR123a would total 6.4V…

I ask because Im debating buying a Zebra for a backcountry skiing emergency kit. I could choose an AA model, but not sure if that would be the best option in terms of output and runtime.

Im considering an 18650 model but LiIon can have performance issues when frozen. So Im wondering if a matched pair of CR123a would make a good backup battery option.

Also, for anyone that may have experience skiing in the dark, would you pick the Floody lens, or the clear lens? Im leaning towards floody, but have no outdoor Zebra beam experience.

Suggestions welcome ;-)
 
Top