The Official Zebralight Thread .

LEDBE
jon_slider said:
Thanks for the link.. I just bought two... Im on a Spree!
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I hope you got at least two! They're honestly really useful, and they work for most headlamps I have. I got a pair, just to try it out. I gifted one away, and immediately realized it's a STEAL. The Skilhunt one is absolutely better, but this one holds...everything...for $4 MSRP.
 
I have two versions of the H600. The flood with clear lens which is actually a wonderful mule and a regular clear lens with reflector. Both are XHP35 if i am not mistaken. I don't let the night interfere with my mowing of the pasture because my H600 with reflector kicks ***. Having skied Utah many times I will recommend the H600 with clear lens and reflector as the one light I would want to ski with. At 1616 lumens (rated) you might just light up the entire mountain. LOL.
 
jon_slider said:
thank you for confirming that two CR123a do fit in a Zebra.. very helpful


thank you.. I wonder why you say they dont fit, while ilikeguns40 says they do? Have you actually tried CR123a in a Zebra, or are you just expressing an untested opinion?
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I'm looking at the difference in size, as shown in my pics, and knowing that the pogo pins have little, if any give to them, so 1) I don't want to attempt to put the tailcap on and 2) more importantly, I don't want to engage the tailcap and activate that extra voltage to the light. I don't have the balls or money to experiment.

If you've tried and they fit, good for you guys and good luck. If you have no problem sending extra voltage to the switch, circuit and emitter, good for you guys and good luck.

I've stopped experimenting using higher voltage that suggested a long time ago when I used an Energizer E2 cell in a clock that meant a lot to me, only to have to ruin said clock. That difference was only a half a volt difference from the recommended battery.

What your asking is a couple volts difference. I'm all ears though in hearing everyone's experiences in doing this.
 
BigusLightus said:
Having skied Utah many times I will recommend the H600 with clear lens and reflector as the one light I would want to ski with
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Thank you very much for commenting about your preference for a clear lens instead of the frosted lens.. A traditional hotspot and spill is more efficient than a floody beam. I tend to prefer floody beams, because there is less glare, than with a hotspot.

When I use a hotspot light, I often move it around to get the boundary between hotspot and spill on target.. this creates extra effort than when I use a floody beam with a more even field of illumination. But I have no experience skiing at night, and appreciate your first hand experience.

So far, I have purchased two Floody AA options, one from early 2023, and one from 2024.. still waiting for them to arrive. I want to compare the LiIon capable model, to the AA only model.. I may gift he AA only model, to a good friend, and keep the LiIon friendly model, for myself. In both cases they are Lithium Primary compatible, if either the Eneloop or LiIon have difficulty at below freezing temperatures... Its nice to have options ;-)

this_is_nascar said:
What your asking is a couple volts difference.
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true, and I respect your reluctance to risk it, especially with older models that are not rated for 6V, like the newer H600Fc MkIV:
Screen Shot 2025-01-21 at 1.20.33 PM.png


Update:
I wrote to Zebralight a few days ago, asking if the 6V limit means two CR123a (nominal 3V, although actual can be as high as 3.2V fresh), can be used in an H600 Fc Mk IV.. their Official Reply is:

"Two CR123s are too long to fit inside the light."

(Even though we know ilikeguns40 has successfully used two CR123a in a Zebra).

That leads me to the option to buy cold tolerant Molicel LiIon instead, as they are rated to operate at ultra low temperatures, down to -40° F

And I can take comfort justifying my H53's because they can use Primary Lithium, even if an H600 can not ;-)
 
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Schokokeks said:
and an crappy little ugly white AAA!
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yup,

got one of those free Olight i3e too ;-)
its a crappy LED, but the free price is right, battery included, and the beam is very useable

Im waiting for someone to ask me for a keychain light, so I can reduce my inventory.. lol
 
jon_slider said:
yup,

got one of those free Olight i3e too ;-)
its a crappy LED, but the free price is right, battery included, and the beam is very useable

Im waiting for someone to ask me for a keychain light, so I can reduce my inventory.. lol
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Hahah, that's exactly how I use them.

I picked up another headband, and the free light.

When someone says they need a light, I have these and some cool white E3A's from Skilhunt to toss their way.
 
AMD64Brunette said:
Would be interesting to see Zebralights made in different materials.

(Copper or brass are what I was thinking of.)
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Ehh, not a fan of those metals in a flashlight. I'd hate to see them get like oLight and just re-case the same technology in a different tube for the sake of claiming they released a new product, but that's just me. I'm usually in the minority:).
 
this_is_nascar said:
Ehh, not a fan of those metals in a flashlight. I'd hate to see them get like oLight and just re-case the same technology in a different tube for the sake of claiming they released a new product, but that's just me. I'm usually in the minority:).
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i agree
 
I just received a May 2023 H53Fc N. It does work on the Button Top LiIon that came w my Wurkkos TS10, and also works on AA Eneloop. It does not work on Flat Top LiIon nor on my Skilhunt Button Top LiIon (it has a flatter button than an Eneloop or my Wurkkos 14500.

All the outputs are the same on both battery types except for H1 is 410 lumens with LiIon, and 200 Lumens with AA Eneloop.

I find that when going from LiIon to AA Eneloop, it is necessary to first press the switch button after removing the LiIon. Otherwise the AA, if it is depleted, at 1.2V, it only gives two modes, 8 lumens and 23 lumens.

If the Eneloop is freshly charged, it does work with all modes after removing a LiIon without first pressing the switch on an empty chamber. But voltage check is still wrong and only gives 1 blink, unless the switch is pressed first on an empty chamber, in which case battery check will give 4 blinks on a full 1.4V charged eneloop.

Moral of the story.. when going from LiIon to AA, press the button on an empty chamber, to clear the LiIon battery voltage from memory.
 
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I wonder why they don't list a 14500 as an acceptable battery in the instructions?

I plan to run Eneloops in mine, but it's nice to know that you can use a 14500.
 
i am a alkaline guy i say there safe long as ya dont leave them in light.i like you can buy them every where .
 
raggie33 said:
i am a alkaline guy i say there safe long as ya dont leave them in light.i like you can buy them every where .
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This is amazing to me, because I think you might be the only Alkavangelist left.

I just can't get around exactly the fact you can't leave them in lights, and that they're actually REALLY expensive to use.

Plus, that sweet, sweet flat discharge of Eneloops:
1737817249789.png
 
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