The Official Zebralight Thread .

What about the factory reset? If you want to reset G6, do you need to be in G6?

This is a bit confusing from the website.
  • Three consecutive 5-click (or 6-click, 7-click) to reset the G5 (or G6, G7) back to the factory default settings
Thanks
I’m not sure. The manual doesn’t say specifically. Personally if I were to reset any of the three I would go into that program first though.
 
Anduril is fine out of the box and I once programed they are great. However, I can never remember how to program it on the fly. Always need the cheat sheet.
I have but one Anduril light. I’m not opposed to getting more but for me it’s sort of a gimmick UI. Most of its capabilities I never use unless I’m just playing around. If I want to use the light I turn it on and ramp it up or down. If all my lights were Anduril I would probably have more of it memorized but still never use it.
 
I'm not even sure that I need to program G6 and G7. I figured out that you can double click in G5 to select lower output for L, M, and H. That's pretty versatile.

I have plenty of Anduril lights for the fancy stuff. I am happy with these Zebras so far.
 
I'm not even sure that I need to program G6 and G7. I figured out that you can double click in G5 to select lower output for L, M, and H. That's pretty versatile.
If it works for you, that's all that matters. You're fortunate to find G5 amenable.

Personally, I'm a stickler for a low setting w/o having to cycle through anything brighter. Very happy that the ZL UI makes that possible. Anduril too, with the a fore mentioned caveat.
 
I get annoyed with the tendency of Anduril lights to briefly flicker on high before going to firefly.
that really bothers me too.. it seems to be specific to boost drivers.. I tolerate it in my D3AA for the benefit of the NoPWM

my other anduril light, the Wurkkos TS10, does not preflash when I go to firefly with press hold from off.. but I dont like that it is a YesPWM driver.. tradeoffs..

Zebras also preflash, for example when going to medium.. in fact Zebras have a lot of flashes and unintended outputs.. its easy to get strobe by mistake too.. ;-)

One thing the Zebra does best is endurance.. and the new AA only driver has 50% longer runtime. I also really like that Zebras use NoPWM on AA. Here is the Flicker Index for the 7 lumen level.. the LED is powered constantly, the output is rock steady:

Screen Shot 2025-01-28 at 8.36.10 PM.png

almost all the other outputs have a similar flat and steady Lux output, with similar Ultra Low Flicker Index.

AA Zebras are definitely an excellent choice for the long runtimes with NoPWM ;-)
 
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Zebras also preflash, for example when going to medium.. in fact Zebras have a lot of flashes and unintended outputs..

The way I program my ZL eliminates the pre flash. The downside is to scroll through levels I get low, high, medium, low, high, medium, low etc.

There are always downsides it seems. Its just finding out your tolerance level to each one.
 
The downside is to scroll through levels I get low, high, medium,
yes, I agree there are tradeoffs

fwiw, I also compared the Flicker Index of a 2023 H53 when using LiIon: (this is the 55 lumen level on LiIon, aka M1):

Screen Shot 2025-01-28 at 8.26.46 PM.png


Although that modulation is not visible to the naked eye, the LED does not hold constant Lux, and the flicker index is higher than on AA.

I actually tested the Flicker Index on the 6 modes I chose to use on my AA/14500 2023 Zebra H53Fc N, on both AA and 14500:
combo g.png


btw, if someone would like to buy an AA/LiIon capable 2021 H53Fc, there is a nice one modded to 3000K 219b by Bob_McBob available here

The advantage of LiIon is that H1 goes up to 400 lumens (instead of 200 lumens on AA). All the other outputs stay the same on both AA and 14500.
 
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...
btw, if someone would like to buy an AA/LiIon capable 2021 H53Fc, there is a nice one modded to 3000K 219b by Bob_McBob available here

The advantage of LiIon is that H1 goes up to 400 lumens (instead of 200 lumens on AA). All the other outputs stay the same on both AA and 14500.

Thanks for the advert! I do wonder about 519a vs 219b performance on a 14500 cell. Do you happen to know how much current your H53 draws on H1 using a 14500? I'd imagine this might be influenced by the max current rating of your cell, e.g. a Vapcell H10 might be able to pump a fair bit of current. Based on this Texax_Ace 219b test, it appears 3A should be safe for a 219b.
 
Do you happen to know how much current your H53 draws on H1 using a 14500?
I do not.. and did not keep the light, so cant test

the official current limit for a 219b is 1.5A, and a typical 14500 has a 3A CDR
Screen Shot 2025-01-29 at 11.29.58 AM.png

that chart is from this 219b datasheet

but I dont think your 2021 H53Fc will allow a full 3A to reach the LED. My hunch is the Zebra driver wont exceed 1.5A on H1.

I say that because the Texas Ace test (thanks for the link), shows 3A direct to the 4500K 219b LED would give 643 lumens, which does not actually happen in the 2023 Zebra H53Fc N (with a 4000K 519a).
Screen Shot 2025-01-29 at 11.35.26 AM.png

The 4000K 519a in the 2023 H53Fc N actually maxes out at about 420 lumens (the 519a datasheet says that output would come from a 1.4A current)..

The Texas Ace test of 219b 4500K puts 413 lumen output at 1.5A (green arrow)..

So imho, If you were to try a 14500 in your 2021 H53Fc w 3000K 219b, I dont think it will receive the full 3A from a 3A CDR 14500.. My guess is the output will max out around 300 lumens, and the current would be no more than 1.5A from the Zebra driver on LiIon. That would not exceed the official spec of 1.5A for max current to a 219b. (The Zebra driver may actually limit H1 to just 1A)

I suggest you ask @Bob_McBob whether he thinks it would be safe for the 3000K 219b to use LiIon in the 2021 H53Fc... He might be able to tell us if the Zebra driver limits H1 to 1.5A or less.
 
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After seeing that video I remember one thing I didn't like about the newest Zebralight headlamp I bought, was the soft clicky switch. Wish they never changed from the original.
 
After seeing that video I remember one thing I didn't like about the newest Zebralight headlamp I bought, was the soft clicky switch. Wish they never changed from the original.
What are you comparing it to? They've been using the same switch in almost everything since 2014-2015ish.
 

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