The Official Zebralight Thread .

[holygeez03]

I wonder what emitter the SC600w MkV Plus will use?

And will the SC65w out-throw the the SC64w HI?

 

[this_is_nascar]

I have zero interest in a ZL that has either magnetic or USB on-board charging. If I had one suggestion, it would be to allow for any sized 18650 sized cell on the SC64 and SC600 Series.


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[Bob_McBob]

I think it's a pretty safe bet the next generation of lights will be XHP35.2, XHP50.2, and XHP70.2 for the most part. AA lights will probably be LH351D or SST-20. I suspect the SC64c LE will become another XHP35.2 variant of the SC65 unless Zebralight wants to save a few dollars on the LED.

 

[Luminesce]

id30209: How did you remove the bezel ring and lens on your SC600Fc? In the 1st photo the ring on your 600 looks to be sticking out a tad above the head of the light vs my SC700Fd which is flush if not a tiny bit recessed.

 

[SYZYGY]

Re: The Official Zebralight Thread

id30209: How did you remove the bezel ring and lens on your SC600Fc? In the 1st photo the ring on your 600 looks to be sticking out a tad above the head of the light vs my SC700Fd which is flush if not a tiny bit recessed.

i would link to a topic on another forum, but as i've heard that -- for bizarre reasons beyond my comprehension -- i could get reprimanded or even banned for doing so, i'll just play it safe and repost this here. basically you just need to slip a thin (probably ground down with sand paper) metal wedge of some sort under the bezel ring (between the glass and the ring) and work your way around.

i suggest not using a razor blade. they're too brittle. you'll snap the edge off under the bezel.

it wasn't clear to me if you're trying to open sc700 series or sc600. sc700 is harder, and i have not succeeded yet. good luck:

using sandpaper, i ground down handle end of a lockpick stamped from a single sheet of 0.5mm spring steel. spring steel is nice because it's stiff, tough, and not brittle.

my initial impression is the sc700 is probably more annoying to open than sc64. i'm able to slip my tool much deeper under the sc64 bezel, and it's much easier going. i didn't actually try to open up my sc64 since that's not my goal, but i think i could probably do it with the tool i made.


i tried to get the sc700 open, but i don't know if i actually made any progress. i might've lifted the bezel a little, but it's probably my imagination.

i wonder if the sc700 bezel tolerances are different, or if the oring is compressed more. or if the oring sits in a deeper retention channel, and the bezel is basically sitting right on a metal lip. maybe they wanted a positive stop for sc700 assembly.


i guess i could try pressing the glass in a vise or something in case the oring will give a little. will update if i learn anything else.


edit: this is a stubborn SOB. obviously breaking the glass to get into the light is admitting failure. i'm not there yet.


i think what i may do is use a pin vise to drill a small hole into the face of the bezel. that would give me a spot to insert a dental pick or something as a pry tool to lift up and get one spot started. with one spot lifted up a little, maybe then i could work the other tool around like how bob was doing it.

has anyone here gotten sc700d open?

 

[Luminesce]

Re: The Official Zebralight Thread

i would link to a topic on another forum, but as i've heard that -- for bizarre reasons beyond my comprehension -- i could get reprimanded or even banned for doing so, i'll just play it safe and repost this here. basically you just need to slip a thin (probably ground down with sand paper) metal wedge of some sort under the bezel ring (between the glass and the ring) and work your way around.

i suggest not using a razor blade. they're too brittle. you'll snap the edge off under the bezel.

it wasn't clear to me if you're trying to open sc700 series or sc600. sc700 is harder, and i have not succeeded yet. good luck:

has anyone here gotten sc700d open?

Thanks 4 the reply. I was afraid you'd say what you said, when you said what you said. I see the breaking of the glass as a real problem I'd prefer to avoid. Don't need to get inside that badly, just curious. Rules are rules, cross post and all. It ain't our forum so we play by the rules but you could aways PM me with the link, doubt if that is breaking any rules. All in all, I still am pleased with the Fd version but I don't generally need a thrower during my night time activities. Maybe if we actually get the promised $2000 kickback from Uncle Sam, I can justify getting the F version too.

Need to do a bit of research and see which of the 21700 batteries out there will fit these lights. Perhaps something with a bit more kick than the Samsung 40T that ZL sells but so far they are doing the job and with a small thin washed inserted at the positive end of the battery to insure contact when placed into my XTAR Dragon VP4 charger, I can charge the battery up in ~2 hrs.

 

[quahog]

I'm curious if anyone has seen this issue I'm seeing. I received my first ZL today, an H600Fc Mk IV and I've noticed some visible flickering on L1 (3.3lm) and only on this mode. It's not a huge deal because I can use G6/G7 and skip this mode.

Here's a close-up video using my phone:
https://streamable.com/5072fz

The flickering is quite visible to the naked eye looking directly at the light or when viewing it normally lighting up the room/wall.

 

[NPL]

If adding a magnetic charging feature adds weight or size to the headlamps especially, I prefer without. If they manage to implement it in such a way that doesn't compromise the super light and compact design, no harm to me. Very curious to find out more about this new ground breaking efficient driver they mentioned.... The likely xhp35.2 xhp50.2 etc is nothing to be excited about...

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[SYZYGY]

Re: The Official Zebralight Thread

I'm curious if anyone has seen this issue I'm seeing. I received my first ZL today, an H600Fc Mk IV and I've noticed some visible flickering on L1 (3.3lm) and only on this mode. It's not a huge deal because I can use G6/G7 and skip this mode.

Here's a close-up video using my phone:
https://streamable.com/5072fz

The flickering is quite visible to the naked eye looking directly at the light or when viewing it normally lighting up the room/wall.

just tried with a recently-received h600d. no flickering on L1 or L2 via G5.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

I'm curious if anyone has seen this issue I'm seeing. I received my first ZL today, an H600Fc Mk IV and I've noticed some visible flickering on L1 (3.3lm) and only on this mode. It's not a huge deal because I can use G6/G7 and skip this mode.

Here's a close-up video using my phone:
https://streamable.com/5072fz

The flickering is quite visible to the naked eye looking directly at the light or when viewing it normally lighting up the room/wall.

It's really hard to tell from your video. But, anyway, I have that exact light, and there's no visible flickering or changes in brightness on the default L1 (or any other mode). Sounds like it may be a driver issue. I'm surprised you don't notice it on the moonlight levels too, if it's having problems at low output.

 

[quahog]

It's really hard to tell from your video. But, anyway, I have that exact light, and there's no visible flickering or changes in brightness on the default L1 (or any other mode). Sounds like it may be a driver issue. I'm surprised you don't notice it on the moonlight levels too, if it's having problems at low output.

Yes, very strange that it's only on this single mode. I've programmed G6 and tested all modes.

You won't see the flickering on the video but it does show up as the vertical black bars (rolling shutter effect). The vertical bars don't seem to have a pattern and are random which is how the flickering looks like to my eye (random changes in brightness).

Just made another video by pointing the light at the wall (a few inches away) and then recording:
https://streamable.com/jdi76t

I guess I need to decide if I can live without the 3.3lm level otherwise I need to do an RMA.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

I guess I need to decide if I can live without the 3.3lm level otherwise I need to do an RMA.

Personally, I find that one of the most useful modes, if you just want dim illumination outdoors. I'd return it, unless you're absolutely sure you'll never use that mode.

 

[Bob_McBob]

I guess I need to decide if I can live without the 3.3lm level otherwise I need to do an RMA.

I would not accept a light with any unusual driver behaviour, especially for $89. There is clearly something wrong with it, and it's possible it could get worse in the future.

 

[quahog]

I would not accept a light with any unusual driver behaviour, especially for $89. There is clearly something wrong with it, and it's possible it could get worse in the future.

Thanks for the input. I'll contact NKON and see about a replacement.

 

[Luminesce]

I'm curious if anyone has seen this issue I'm seeing. I received my first ZL today, an H600Fc Mk IV and I've noticed some visible flickering on L1 (3.3lm) and only on this mode. It's not a huge deal because I can use G6/G7 and skip this mode.

Since it's only on one mode I would think it's not the LED itself. That leaves the software side as the suspect. I'd be concerned that it could popup on other modes (probably unlikely) and ask for a replacement under manufacturer's warranty or seller's return policy to avoid dealing with a worsening future issue.

 

[this_is_nascar]

I can honestly say that I've never regularly used any of my ZL's on G5. The 1st thing I do when getting one is to program G6 and G7 and toggle between them.

I'd definitely return the light if you're concerned.


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[PoliceScannerMan]

So after years of ZL ownership I finally programmed mine to my liking. Click comes on to a good EDC medium, double click from there is a slightly lower yet usable level. Long press is the second from lowest level, double click to 3rd from lowest. Two clicks from off is max, double click to get 3 from max. Love it!!

 

[Owen]

Some years ago, I put a H60w, one of the original 18650 Zebralights, on my hardhat. It eventually succumbed to water ingress around the optic(I'm out in all weather, and the worse the weather, the more time I spend out in it), and left me a bit disillusioned about both Zebralight and the idea of having a "nice" light on my hardhat.

After ~9yrs of using a variety of 3AAA headlamps supplied by my employer, my own comment here that my work headlamp saw more runtime than all my other lights combined drove me to buy another Zebralight. They have the only UI that I really like, aside from a simple forward clicky, and my EDC light and backpacking headlamp for the last 8yrs are Zebralights, so I decided to put aside any misgivings, and give them another shot as a heavy user.

Last night made 3 weeks for my new H600w XHP35.
18 night shifts, plus a couple of evenings, and >60hrs of use.
Its combination of large spot and broad spill has proven much more useful than the flood and narrow beams, respectively, that preceded it, and the long runtime at steady, usable outputs makes it very practical.
The modes I use, almost exclusively, are the 127Lm/13.8hr and 264Lm/6.3hr ones.
I work 11-7, and the sun doesn't come up until after 6 right now. The 127Lm mode is on whenever I'm busy.
I love it. Where there's lots of ambient light, I can't even tell it's on until I look at something, or into areas, the light doesn't reach...and I can see.
The 264Lm mode gets used for the same stuff, only when I need to see things a little better, it's raining, etc. It may or may not get bumped back to G5 for a taste of that 1400Lm H1, now and then, too

So far, so good. It's seen quite a bit of rain, already, along with being washed and scrubbed in the sink a few times.
I just hope it remains reliable over time, and earns my wholehearted endorsement in addition to the good first impression.

Can't believe I was running around with a dang Rayovac on my head:ironic:

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

Great report Owen, love it man.

 

[markr6]

Good real-life use. Kinda makes me want to find a job to fit my flashlight, not a flashlight for my job