The Official Zebralight Thread .

[NutSAK]

I'm doing inventory of a couple of my bugout bags this morning. Here is a quick shot of the H50-Q5 headlamps I keep in them--simple, reliable, and compact.

 

[AstroTurf]

I'm doing inventory of a couple of my bugout bags this morning. Here is a quick shot of the H50-Q5 headlamps I keep in them--simple, reliable, and compact.

View attachment 28801

nice!!!

 

[NutSAK]

While they're out, a quick comparison of some AA models. Back in 2007 I was shocked at how small the H50 was and, honestly, it's still shocking.

Left to right: H50-Q5, H51fw, H52fw, SC52w L2

 

[Repsol600rr]

Yeah the "w" model is 4500k and lower cri. I had one and didnt like it. The old sc52w was glorious to my eyes. The "c" was I think the xpl2 easywhite in 4000k and higher cri with a 93-95 I think cri 2 step binned emitter. I do have this. They haven't made a "d" model since the sc62 and sc52 I think. I have both. Those were 85ish cri 5000k phillips luxeon t emitters. They also made a sc52 and sc62 "c" model that was also 4000k but I don't remember the emitter, never had one.

 

[NutSAK]

Rather than speculate, just go to the comparison spreadsheet on the Zebralight website. All the old models and their specs are there, except for the original H50 and H30.

 

[this_is_nascar]

I'll have to compare each of the beams when I get home tonight. I can usually tell a high CRI light, by shining it on my dresser.

 

[NutSAK]

I received my H53fc LE yesterday. It's a worthy successor to the H52fw, with a slightly lower color temperature and much better color rendition. It may still unofficially support 14500 as has been suggested, but my Keeppower 14500s don't fit length-wise in the battery tube, so I can't test it. It is clearly shorter than the H52. The switch has a better feel and the new headband material seems like a good upgrade too. I think it's a keeper!

 

[nollij]

The size and efficiency of this series are fantastic.

I actually just picked up an SC64c LE myself, replacing my 2016 SC62w. One thing to note if you're new to ZL, you can switch to one of the other mode groups (G6 or G7) and have total control over the brightness of every mode and sub-mode.

I loathe the way ZL's default setup makes a double-click for medium pass through a burst of high (the first click), so the first thing I always do with mine is change that. My SC64c LE is set up with click and hold for low, single click for medium, and two clicks for high.

If you don't mind me asking, how exactly did you set that up? It sounds like a worthy bit of reprogramming as I also don't like getting blasted to get into Medium mode quickly.

 

[3oni]

If you don't mind me asking, how exactly did you set that up? It sounds like a worthy bit of reprogramming as I also don't like getting blasted to get into Medium mode quickly.

ZL's walkthrough (linked below) is probably better than mine, but I'll take a stab at it. The timing of the double-clicks can sometimes be a bit fussy, but you can't break anything and you only need to do it once.

1. From off, 6 clicks to switch to G6.
2. Turn on the light to the mode or sub-mode you want to program, e.g. double-click to program the default medium mode (which you're going to adjust to be high).
3. 6 double clicks to enter programming for that mode/sub-mode, with a very brief pause between double-clicks. You can pretty much just click 12 times and keep going, because once you're in programming mode a double-click increases brightness so you'll know you did it right.
4. Double-click to increase brightness, triple-click to reduce it, stop when it's at the level you like.
5. Turn the light off.
6. Repeat steps 2-5 for each mode you want to program.

To set a single click to be medium, you'll just lower the brightness on that mode; then increase the brightness on the two-clicks mode; and finally adjust low (click and hold) to whatever level you like.

https://www.zebralight.com/assets/images/ZebraLightUserGuide2019.pdf

 

[moozooh]

Has anyone noticed that output numbers for H53c LE and H53Fc LE seem to be copied wholesale from their non-LE counterparts? Hard to believe they've matched it precisely for two completely different LEDs with different output specs. Going by the difference between SC64c and SC64c LE which use the same pair of LEDs (Cree XP-L2 and Samsung LH351D respectively), the LE output numbers should be roughly 8% lower.

This should put the numbers at ~254 and ~51 lm for H1 and M1 respectively on the frosty one. Still very good and comparable to H52Fw, mind you. I've already notified ZebraLight's sales department, so just take it as an FYI.

Okay, an update on this since ZL's sales dept got back to me.

According to their response, it's not the output that is different (they have indeed designed it to match the non-LE versions), but the runtimes. So yeah, those should be proportionally lower then.

I also asked them about the new tech, specifically the UI update that should introduce, among other things, the ability to tone down slow strobe in the high-end lights (because in the current lights it defaults to the H1 output which is so damn bright it renders the feature unusable, and it's a big deal if you want to use them as a bike strobelight or some such). This is indeed still coming, but apparently it fell victim to the same delays that plague A6 and the next-gen SC/H models which were supposed to feature it in the first place.

Hopefully they'll be able to resolve it soon; I'm super interested in what else they've cooked up in the meantime.

 

[Mr. LED]

So which runtime is longer, the new LE or the older version?

 

[Duster1671]

ZL's walkthrough (linked below) is probably better than mine, but I'll take a stab at it. The timing of the double-clicks can sometimes be a bit fussy, but you can't break anything and you only need to do it once.

1. From off, 6 clicks to switch to G6.
2. Turn on the light to the mode or sub-mode you want to program, e.g. double-click to program the default medium mode (which you're going to adjust to be high).
3. 6 double clicks to enter programming for that mode/sub-mode, with a very brief pause between double-clicks. You can pretty much just click 12 times and keep going, because once you're in programming mode a double-click increases brightness so you'll know you did it right.
4. Double-click to increase brightness, triple-click to reduce it, stop when it's at the level you like.
5. Turn the light off.
6. Repeat steps 2-5 for each mode you want to program.

To set a single click to be medium, you'll just lower the brightness on that mode; then increase the brightness on the two-clicks mode; and finally adjust low (click and hold) to whatever level you like.

https://www.zebralight.com/assets/images/ZebraLightUserGuide2019.pdf

Very good crash course on ZL programming.

One tip I'll add—it's easy to make the mistake of trying to enter programming too quickly after switching sub-modes. That first double click will get counted as one of the six to enter programming and you'll wind up all wrapped around the axle.

If you always turn the light on directly to the sub-mode you want to program, the above will never be an issue. (You can also just wait an excessive amount of time after switching sub-modes before going into programming).

 

[moozooh]

So which runtime is longer, the new LE or the older version?

Older version has slightly longer runtimes (by less than 10%, in theory).

 

[Nuppet]

It's good to see that Zebralight released new lights after three years, and I'm looking forward to new lights with new UI for better strobing (even turn it off completely). It's so very easy to turn on strobing by mistake when in the middle of the night.

I assume that availability of Zebralight flashlights around the world will improve as well.

 

[Mr. LED]

Don't get your hopes high, they already released new lights now, with the same UI. If more will come, they won't change the UI.

Strobe is activated with a triple click, and I don't see how it's easy to activate it in the middle of the night, since moonlight is a long press on the button (by default). I have never accidentally activated strobe in any situation. I suggest you change the strobe mode to moonlight beacon and leave it there, so in case you accidentally activate it, it won't blind or startle you while waking up.

To change it, just activate strobe using a triple click, and then double click to cycle through the modes from: low beacon, high mode beacon, slow strobe and fast strobe.
Also, the low beacon will have the output currently set on the low mode, so it can be moonlight (L2) or low (L1). It's pretty neat.

 

[3oni]

I suggest you change the strobe mode to moonlight beacon and leave it there, so in case you accidentally activate it, it won't blind or startle you while waking up.

Dang, I had no idea you could do this! Thank you. Just changed my SC64c LE to never bug me with strobe again.

 

[Stefano]

I received my H53fc LE yesterday. It's a worthy successor to the H52fw, with a slightly lower color temperature and much better color rendition. It may still unofficially support 14500 as has been suggested, but my Keeppower 14500s don't fit length-wise in the battery tube, so I can't test it. It is clearly shorter than the H52. The switch has a better feel and the new headband material seems like a good upgrade too. I think it's a keeper!

Where did you buy this H53Fc LE ?
The Zebralight site says it only accepts purchases from US customers.
I wrote to customer service and they reply that maybe the Dutch NKON could have it in a month or two.

 

[Nuppet]

Don't get your hopes high, they already released new lights now, with the same UI. If more will come, they won't change the UI.

Strobe is activated with a triple click, and I don't see how it's easy to activate it in the middle of the night, since moonlight is a long press on the button (by default). I have never accidentally activated strobe in any situation. I suggest you change the strobe mode to moonlight beacon and leave it there, so in case you accidentally activate it, it won't blind or startle you while waking up.

To change it, just activate strobe using a triple click, and then double click to cycle through the modes from: low beacon, high mode beacon, slow strobe and fast strobe.
Also, the low beacon will have the output currently set on the low mode, so it can be moonlight (L2) or low (L1). It's pretty neat.

Pretty easy to get to strobe by a double click and a click where the single click is to short after the double click.

 

[NutSAK]

Where did you buy this H53Fc LE ?
The Zebralight site says it only accepts purchases from US customers.
I wrote to customer service and they reply that maybe the Dutch NKON could have it in a month or two.

I'm in the US.

 

[Mr. LED]

Pretty easy to get to strobe by a double click and a click where the single click is to short after the double click.

Using the standard UI (G5), from off, a double click will turn on medium, then a click will turn it off. I don't see the point?