The Official Zebralight Thread .

[NutSAK]

...or click-hold from off to advance through low to medium. If this method is used, it's very unlikely you'll accidentally activate strobe.

 

[Nuppet]

Using the standard UI (G5), from off, a double click will turn on medium, then a click will turn it off. I don't see the point?

And then a fast single click will on strobe instead of off. Is that so hard to understand?

 

[this_is_nascar]

Dang, I had no idea you could do this! Thank you. Just changed my SC64c LE to never bug me with strobe again.

With absolutely no disrespect directed at you, that's seems to be a huge issue with casual ZL users. They criticize the UI, without ever learning its full capabilities.

Regardless, I'm glad this was worked out and you can enjoy your ZL. It's really the best UI I've ever used in a flashlight.

 

[Mr. LED]

And then a fast single click will on strobe instead of off. Is that so hard to understand?

Yes it's hard. Why would you turn it on medium quickly using a double click, just to turn it off half a second later (and activate strobe)?

Did you know you can change the strobe to a low beacon, instead?

 

[3oni]

Why would you turn it on medium quickly using a double click, just to turn it off half a second later (and activate strobe)?

For me accidental strobe happens most often when I turn the light on with a single click (which I have set as medium brightness) and then double-click "too soon" to switch to my medium sub-mode.

In the years between carrying my first ZL regularly and carrying my new one, I got used to UIs that didn't feature strobe, or which buried it outside of the realm of casual activation. The timing just takes a bit of getting used to, and I'll get used to it again. But in the meantime, switching strobe to low beacon is lovely.

 

[moozooh]

For me accidental strobe happens most often when I turn the light on with a single click (which I have set as medium brightness) and then double-click "too soon" to switch to my medium sub-mode.

Yeah, this is totally a thing. Not something that happens often, but can cause quite a bit of annoyance when it eventually does.

 

[Duster1671]

With absolutely no disrespect directed at you, that's seems to be a huge issue with casual ZL users. They criticize the UI, without ever learning its full capabilities.

Regardless, I'm glad this was worked out and you can enjoy your ZL. It's really the best UI I've ever used in a flashlight.

This sounds quite like the "you don't like it because you just don't understand it" fallacy.

I, for one, know the ZL interface inside and out and find it significantly flawed in a couple of ways. I've seen plenty of valid criticism from others too with no indication that the critics don't understand the UI.

 

[Megalamuffin]

Does anyone have a new h600c mk4 with the 4000k xhp50.2? If so how do you like it and how is the tint compared to other high cri 4000k emitters?

I'm thinking of that model to give zebras a try, but still not 100% sure yet.

 

[Pi_is_blue]

Does anyone have a new h600c mk4 with the 4000k xhp50.2? If so how do you like it and how is the tint compared to other high cri 4000k emitters?

I'm thinking of that model to give zebras a try, but still not 100% sure yet.

I have two of the H600c. The beam really isn't the best. It is hard to capture, but the center of the beam is slightly blue, and there is some tint shift from the corona to the spill (which are both rather yellowish). Both of my H600c lights exhibit these beam defects. I used to have the H600Fc variant, and the tint was much more uniform with the frosted lens, though still rather yellowish.

Some comparisons:

Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia (4500k) on the left vs. H600c on the right. I should note that by itself, the Armytek has a very slightly yellowish tint, but the H600c really overpowers it.

Next, Emisar DW4 with dedomed 5700k Nichia 519a (should be close to 4000k after the dedome - nice and rosy, very comparable to the Nichia 219b sw40 that I have in several Peaks).

If only I could get a slightly rosy XHP50.3 HI in the Zebralights...

As for form factor, there is an obvious winner:

 

[Pi_is_blue]

All three lights from above in one shot (left to right: Armytek Wizard Nichia, DW4 Dedomed Nichia 519a, H600c). Quite close to how I see things in real life, and not so favorable for the H600c!

 

[Megalamuffin]

Thanks for the comparisons.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Very interesting images. Using a wood type horizontal surface with the white wall is really nice for comparisons! But can't help thinking that the xhp50.2 would most likely be "ok" for woods walking and such.

 

[Pi_is_blue]

The H600c is ok outdoors. I have two mainly for mountain biking - I run one on the handlebars and one on my helmet. As long as the tints match between paired lights things are acceptable. I like the wider hotspots so that I don't get tunnel vision (which was an issue with an older H600w mk II that I had). I will say, the XHP50.2 doesn't bring out the reds we have in rocks and soil in Utah nearly as well as the Nichia lights I have.

 

[Fireclaw18]

I wish Zebralight would come out with some new flashlight models.

It's been literally years since they came out with anything new.

 

[this_is_nascar]

I wish Zebralight would come out with some new flashlight models.

It's been literally years since they came out with anything new.

There's something to be said to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" philosophy. That being said, I can see why many want the latest and greatest emitters.

Based on how I use my ZL, the only thing I'd want new or different is an optional magnetic tailcap. Sure, it will at a few mm to the overall length, but it would be worth it, to me. That would totally be an optional accessory and wouldn't change the light offering in any way.

 

[Megalamuffin]

I ordered an sc64c le as my first zebra. If I end up liking it there may be more modes in the future. I want to like them so I can consolidate my amount of lights in a significant way.

Has anyone used samsung 35e batteries in the sc64? The specs seem to check out for fitment and I have a bunch of them so I didn't buy the batteries zebra sells.

Also, I noticed the voltage range for the sc64c le goes up to 6v. Are two cr123's too long to fit?

 

[Fireclaw18]

"If it ain broke don't fix it?" .... well, the SC64 is by no means perfect. There's plenty of room for improvement, such as:

• SC64 host is very slippery. Replace the smooth body with knurling. Keep the light the same size.
• Deep carry clip. There are deep carry clip options available from 3rd party sellers, but perhaps Zebralight can come up with something better.
• Thicker lens. The SC64 lens is extremely thin. It would be nice to have a thicker, more durable lens option.
• Emitter. All the emitters offered by Zebralight are quite old. Even the LH351D in the SC64 LE is old. It might be nice to have a selection of more modern emitters. For those who like lumens and throw, perhaps SFT-40. For those who like high-CRI, perhaps 519a.
• Onboard charging. This one isn't for everyone, but it is sometimes a nice feature to have. Supposedly the SC65 will have it, but the SC65 seems to be vaporware. Meanwhile, Zebralight hasn't come out with a new product other than just minor emitter changes for something like 4 or 5 years now.

 

[ieslei]

Hi guys! Sorry to interrupt any on going subject but I really want another zebra and I am in between two emitters H53c LE NW and H53w. One uses xp-l2 easywhite and the other lh351d.... I have one sc64w HI and love it so much, the tint is perfect for me. I know the Samsung's is warmer but wich one is closer to 64w HI? Please, give me some light....

 

[Mr. LED]

SC64w HI is kinda unique, very nice tint without any shift. XP-L2 is most of the time greenish with a big shift, and LE is warmer but high CRI, no shift. I would go for the LE.

 

[ieslei]

SC64w HI is kinda unique, very nice tint without any shift. XP-L2 is most of the time greenish with a big shift, and LE is warmer but high CRI, no shift. I would go for the LE.

One vote for the Samsung. Thank you. I have a manker e02 ll that has sst20, maybe the Samsung's is closer to that.