The Official Zebralight Thread .

lampeDépêche

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Check out the runtime charts of SC64w Hi here and compare to same for SC64c LE here. Unless you're actively cooling the light while in use, the only difference is slightly brighter but similarly rapidly dimming light for literally a few minutes before holding regulation just under 400Lm. Actually, the SC64c LE drops down to a higher level, just under 500Lm (60% of 828Lm is 496.8Lm).

Thanks for the charts, chillinn! That's very interesting.
I guess my answer is that, for my use, that first minute or so of 1300 lumens often really is important. I don't often keep my lights on high for 20 minutes. For extended use, I'm more likely to use a medium level or even low (in the house, at night, I mostly want the sublumen levels.)
But I pretty often *do* want 30-90 seconds or so of turbo. That's my initial look around the yard, or my initial glimpse down the dark hole. That's when I want as many lumens as I can get. Of course I also love other things about the ZL's -- the size, the UI, the quality of manufacture, etc.. So, I'm not going to go for a cheap and ugly pocket-rocket just to get a few more lumens.
But if I have a choice between two SC64 models with everything else the same, then that extra output in the initial period genuinely matters to me.
 

lampeDépêche

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Hope not, because it's a few seconds of 1300Lm at best. But don't blame the Zebralight. It's our cells.
I won't blame ZL, that's for sure.
But is it the cells? Looks like that first chart shows the cooled SC64w HI holding about 1040 for about 40 minutes!
In which case it looks like the limiting factor is the cooling, not the cells. Or am I reading that chart wrong?
 

chillinn

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Or am I reading that chart wrong?

I don't think so. I was thinking of limitations of today's cells and manufacturers claiming 4000Lm, which our cells can only do for a few seconds, but 1000Lm is perfectly reasonable. If Zebralights had big finned copper heads, it could probably hold 1000Lm with passive self-cooling.
 

defloyd77

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I don't have much to compare it to. But from my past experience with the AA models I'd say output on H1 is around 275 lumens on a primary. Similar to the previous models. It's a nice upgrade from what was offered in the past. Definitely a win for Zebra going the 519a route. However, I'd rather it be 4500k-5000k but that's just my personal preference

That's going to be something no company is going to win at, choosing between 4000K and 4500K. Personally I'm glad it's 4000K as in my personal experience it's the perfect middle ground between warm night lighting and natural daylight. Any warmer and it looks too warm during daytime use. Any cooler and it's too cool for nighttime use. Bonus points for being close to the color temp of moonlight too.
 

chillinn

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I think 4000K is too cool for nighttime, too warm for daytime. There is no compromise, and I know this sounds radical, but hear me out: TWO LIGHTS! Yes, not one but two, if you can comprehend that, one for the daytime, one for night, unless it's a light with a dual channel driver and two sets of LEDs of vastly different color temperature. But why stop there? We can dial it in even more accurately with four lights! One for pre-dawn, one for daylight, one for dusk, and one for night time, with color temperatures spread from 2200K all the way up to 5200K. I know it sounds absolutely insane, but with a little practice, I bet anyone could do it. I know what you're thinking: how would you keep track of all those lights? Well just imagine if they all were anodized in separate colors, and all their hosts had a different feel to them so they could be identified by touch. I was born way before my time, I really was.
 
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defloyd77

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I think 4000K is too cool for nighttime, too warm for daytime. There is no compromise, and I know this sounds radical, but hear me out: TWO LIGHTS! Yes, not one but two, if you can comprehend that, one for the daytime, one for night, unless it's a light with a dual channel driver and two sets of LEDs of vastly different color temperature. But why stop there? We can dial it in even more accurately with four lights! One for pre-dawn, one for daylight, one for dusk, and one for night time, with color temperatures spread from 2200K all the way up to 5200K. I know it sounds absolutely insane, but with a little practice, I bet anyone could do it. I know what you're thinking: how would you keep track of all those lights? Well just imagine if they all were anodized in separate colors, and all their hosts had a different feel to them so they could be identified by touch. I was born way before my time, I really was.

Genius! We'll put you in charge of arranging that with Zebralight :grin2:

EDIT: The proper way to organize them of course is to have them all around your belt with their position on your body correlating to the time of day with your front being 0:00 (midnight) and your back being 12:00 (noon).
 
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Derek Dean

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Okie dokie, here's my new SC53c N:
ZL.jpg


Here is a shot of the beam with the color balance set to 5000k:
Beam-1.jpg


I personally tend to prefer a bit less yellow, with maybe a hint of rose, so I added a -1 green Lee Zircon filter:
Beam-2.jpg


Well, that was still a bit too red, so I tried a Lee Lilac (#169), and BINGO, got a beautiful white, just slightly creamy tint, again with the color balance set to 5000 k:
beam-3.jpg


And here is how it looks with real stuff:
Soups.jpg


Of course, I've never understood why Zebralight simply refuses to find nicely tinted LEDs in the first place. They are a specialty niche product, so why not give us LEDs that produce beautiful color light without the need for filters.

In any case, the light itself is the usual stellar quality, with vitually perfect fit and finish. The clip is super sturdy, and all functions seem to work as expected, and I like the beam on this one, with a more diffuse hot spot fading gradually into the spill. A nice, useful beam shape. A keeper for sure.
 
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chillinn

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The clip is super sturdy
Zebralight clips are, honestly, tragically weak sauce, with use become loose clippers, and yet they are also world class pocket-eaters. Here is a decent replacement, and seller will bend to order, polished, anodized, with or without spaces and stamped designs. Turnaround is not fast, but it's definitely worth the wait and the price.
 
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Derek Dean

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Zebralight clips are, honestly, tragically weak sauce, with use become loose clippers, and yet they are also world class pocket-eaters. Here is a decent replacement, and seller will bend to order, polished, anodized, with or without spaces and stamped designs. Turnaround is not fast, but it's definitely worth the wait and the price.
Nothing wrong with the clip on the SC53c N. Stiff and sturdy, and I certainly don't see any reason to spend half the cost of the light on a new clip, but of course it's always nice to have options. However, with this small light I tend just to drop it in the bottom of my pocket, so for me it's not a big deal either way.
 

chillinn

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Nothing wrong with the clip on the SC53c N.
No, nothing at all, and we would expect not, as it is brand new, except, of course, what I already mentioned that you have inexplicably contradicted without support when it is widely known: ZL's clips get loose over a short time with not much use, and they eat pockets. We may consider these as serious flaws. Its stiffness and proudness is short lived.

I certainly don't see any reason to spend half the cost of the light on a new clip,
Well, you know, either you're serious about flashlighting or you're not. Use the Zebralght clip every day, by the end of the year you'll not only need new pants, it will begin to escape you, and then you can replace the clip along with the entire light that got away from you. If you missed it, the cost of several pairs of pants and a new Zebralight makes the cost of a clip that does not eat pockets nor lose its ability to remain firmly clipped to them after decades of heavy use more than worth it as it pays for itself many many times over, especially on top of only paying for the materials, labor, and workmanship needed to create it, customize it for you, and ship it to you.

My recommendation was neither frivolous nor for any benefit to myself whatsoever. I made it out of compassion and from the perspective of years of experience. The anodized aluminum Zebralight clip not only will lose its ano and scratch easily, it also has sharp edges that can cut into skin with little effort, on top of succumbing to the stress of normal use, losing its stiffness and its ability to succeed in its purpose. The Zebralight stock clip is, in a word, crap, and it is unbecoming of such a high quality flashlight.

M5eb90y_d.webp

Two year old pants. ZL clips destroy pockets within two months of daily use.

K1TDO6E_d.webp

Low profile, deep carry.

LMg0ZDs_d.webp

This clip is superior to Zebralight's stock clips, more durable, hand made with high quality workmanship out of better materials.

JMbjaZc_d.webp

Pro clip, not for amateurs, but instead for any that recognize the value of not losing an expensive flashlight and untold pockets to a poor quality clip fashioned from the cheapest materials, such as the stock Zebralight clip.

the color balance set to 5000k

First of all, "k" means "one thousand," while "K" stands for kelvins. 5000k = 5,000,000, the number with no unit, and sometimes 5,000 kilometers, while 5000K = 5k kelvins. Also, not for nothing, one can not set "color balance" to a color temperature. Color balance is the adjustment of the intensities of colors, typically referring to the primary colors of red, green, and blue. Adjusting color balance changes the overall mixture of colors in an image and is used for color correction. White balance, otoh, which is what you mistakenly referred to as color balance, balances the color temperature in your photograph by adding the opposite color to those in the image to bring the color temperature back to neutral. To properly set white balance one would not arbitrarily choose a color temperature out of thin air, as you did, but requires calibrating to an 18% grey card, being half way between white and black, in the available ambient lighting, which produces an accurate rendition rather than what could be considered false advertising.

While your images reveal a certain talent which is impressive, and are in and of themselves quite beautiful, they have no relation to reality and will confuse any that are not aware of these details, and disappoint them when they discover for themselves what the SC53c N beam shot actually looks like IRL.

And if you love the color temperature they appear to be in your images, as I do, why not go with an LED that actually produces that color temperature, somewhere between 2700K—3200K, instead of a much cooler 4000K?

I would give almost anything to have a stock Zebralight that produces such a warm temperature as your first image instead of such a pale lifeless neutral, which is the reality of the beam when white balance is properly calibrated.
 
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knucklegary

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Good looking clip. I see you got the clip made without cut-out. It's stronger and Ti less likely to lose retention (If titanium clips are accidentally snagged and pulled hard, past a certain point, it will not return to original shape)

@chillinn, your clip is made of Ti and not stainless, the steel pocket eaters, correct?

Btw, Stainless spring steel is magnetic. It has just enough nickel in it to keep it from rusting
 

ilikeguns40

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I actually prefer the stock clip, never had an issue. I did put titanium spyderco clips on them before, I enjoyed the appearance but it made it annoying because of the "ledge" underneath the deep carry part of the clip and would get caught every time while inserting it into my pocket. So functionality sucked IMO
 

chillinn

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your clip is made of Ti and not stainless, the steel pocket eaters, correct?
Ti, which I initially had reservations about. I would have preferred 410 stainless steel, like Malkoff's clips, but the custom Ti clip from blade4sell has really worked out great.

I actually prefer the stock clip, never had an issue.
I find it extremely difficult to believe that if you've been clipping to your pocket for an extended period that they are not damaged. This is the most common complaint about Zebralight clips.

Where do you come up with this nonsense? None of the stock ZebraLight clips are aluminum.
  • They're quite bendy (hint #1)
  • They're magnetic (hint #2)
I stand corrected. They are made of a lower quality steel alloy that is weakly ferrous.
 
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