90% of the time I'm wearing heavy duty work pants, and most times it just goes deep in the pocket and don't even use the clip. Half tempted to just remove the clip all together
The Official Zebralight Thread .
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knucklegary
Flashlight Enthusiast
^ What ilkeguns40 (cal?) said.. Malkoff clips I leave on but hardly ever use. Small flashlights, they just drop into bottom denim dungaree pockets
chillinn
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's how I feel about Surefire E Series clips. I know they're designed to be that way for reasons, but they are horrid nevertheless. Affecting watertightness has stopped me, but now Mark sells clip slot studs to prevent that, so... very soon, this year at least, I'll cast off the SF clips I hate worst of all.
I am unaware of any, but there should be an accessory to replace the ZL clip that provides a different kind of fastener, a swivel ring that secures to the standard clip holes which would allow quickly securing to a carabiner on a belt. I suppose if one got creative, something could be fashioned easily.
What a crime. Gene's clips are exquisite and matchless. I'll wager he'll develop a deep carry version eventually.
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marinemaster
Flashlight Enthusiast
Be a good sport, email Gene and let us know.
He used to make a deeper carry clip
knucklegary
Flashlight Enthusiast
Not sure why Malkoff stopped selling the DPC. Could be they felt clip interference with thumb to rubber boot action, idk
Yeah who knows, I never owned that style body so I don't know what it's like, but it seems as I'd like it. I think he made a mistake removing the knurling on the MD bodies and tailcaps. Not a fan of the newer style, they have slipped out of my hands numerous times. Maybe it's just me and a personal preference, but I prefer knurling. Wish he also had knurling on his MDC bodies, along with that deep carry clip would be fantastic, for me anyhow
I do know one of the screws in the newer MDC bodies locks the switch in place. One screw is longer than the other. You have to remove the clip in order to remove the switch
I do know one of the screws in the newer MDC bodies locks the switch in place. One screw is longer than the other. You have to remove the clip in order to remove the switch
I'm curious, how old are your lights? The SC64/SC53/SC5 clip was updated to a thinner gauge in 2021, and the current design is much easier to clip to a pocket and doesn't tend to eat them the same way.
chillinn
Flashlight Enthusiast
From late 2020. The clip changed, you say?
Some variations on these SC53's. Probably small tolerance differences between lights of the same model on fit and driver...
- My SC53w has no difference in output from H1 & H2 using an Eneloop.
- My SC53c N has noticeable bump in output from H1 & H2 using an Eneloop.
- Both models work fine on Li-ion. Li-ion brightens the 519A nicely on high.
- My SC53w will take flat-top Vapcell H10 but not button top. My SC53c N will not take flat-top but will take button top Vapcell H10 (little tight).
- 519A has more CRI for sure but looks very slightly dimmer probably more due to lower 4000K color temp and maybe very few less lumens.
These pics are not what my eyes see at all; bad representation actually. LED Colors look much better in person for both. Nichia 519A is not that rosy... (used Iphone) To the eyes ones a little cooler and ones a little warmer with the 519A better CRI. Not a giant difference in person like in the photo...
Left: SC53w Right: SC53c N
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Top SC53w Cree XP-L2 EasyWhite LED 4500K
Bottom SC53c N Nichia 519A-V1 4000K
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Old clip from years ago. (Zebra should bring those back as an option!)
- My SC53w has no difference in output from H1 & H2 using an Eneloop.
- My SC53c N has noticeable bump in output from H1 & H2 using an Eneloop.
- Both models work fine on Li-ion. Li-ion brightens the 519A nicely on high.
- My SC53w will take flat-top Vapcell H10 but not button top. My SC53c N will not take flat-top but will take button top Vapcell H10 (little tight).
- 519A has more CRI for sure but looks very slightly dimmer probably more due to lower 4000K color temp and maybe very few less lumens.
These pics are not what my eyes see at all; bad representation actually. LED Colors look much better in person for both. Nichia 519A is not that rosy... (used Iphone) To the eyes ones a little cooler and ones a little warmer with the 519A better CRI. Not a giant difference in person like in the photo...
Left: SC53w Right: SC53c N
.
.
.
Top SC53w Cree XP-L2 EasyWhite LED 4500K
Bottom SC53c N Nichia 519A-V1 4000K
.
.
.
Old clip from years ago. (Zebra should bring those back as an option!)
chillinn
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have experimented with this clip config... (second from right)
Yes, the clip was updated around May 2021. The current clips are thinner and much more flexible.
lampeDépêche
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- May 15, 2012
- Messages
- 1,241
Lips! Thanks for taking the plunge and verifying that the new SC53c N works on Li-Ions.
Once mine comes in, I'll try to do some rough-and-ready comparisons of output. I don't have anything like a proper measuring set-up for lumens (no integrating sphere), but with a simple lux-meter on my cell phone I can at least say, e.g. "H1 with a Li-ion reads 50% higher than H1 with an Eneloop," and from that plus some other info we can make some estimates of lumen output.
The new sc53c N does not work with flat top li-ions.
Had one out of four vapcell H10 that wouldn't make contact on the SC53w, Little flat solder blob and it works fine now.
Looks like SC53c N has a little bit more room in the tube and needs button tops although H10 are a tight fit & work, they could use a little button top sanding.
the ones I've tried were Vapcell L10 flat top. I'm just gonna use my go to eneloop anyway, but nice to know button top will work
SYZYGY
Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2019
- Messages
- 314
No, nothing at all, and we would expect not, as it is brand new, except, of course, what I already mentioned that you have inexplicably contradicted without support when it is widely known: ZL's clips get loose over a short time with not much use, and they eat pockets. We may consider these as serious flaws. Its stiffness and proudness is short lived.
Well, you know, either you're serious about flashlighting or you're not. Use the Zebralght clip every day, by the end of the year you'll not only need new pants, it will begin to escape you, and then you can replace the clip along with the entire light that got away from you. If you missed it, the cost of several pairs of pants and a new Zebralight makes the cost of a clip that does not eat pockets nor lose its ability to remain firmly clipped to them after decades of heavy use more than worth it as it pays for itself many many times over, especially on top of only paying for the materials, labor, and workmanship needed to create it, customize it for you, and ship it to you.
My recommendation was neither frivolous nor for any benefit to myself whatsoever. I made it out of compassion and from the perspective of years of experience. The anodized aluminum Zebralight clip not only will lose its ano and scratch easily, it also has sharp edges that can cut into skin with little effort, on top of succumbing to the stress of normal use, losing its stiffness and its ability to succeed in its purpose. The Zebralight stock clip is, in a word, crap, and it is unbecoming of such a high quality flashlight.
Two year old pants. ZL clips destroy pockets within two months of daily use.
Low profile, deep carry.
This clip is superior to Zebralight's stock clips, more durable, hand made with high quality workmanship out of better materials.
Pro clip, not for amateurs, but instead for any that recognize the value of not losing an expensive flashlight and untold pockets to a poor quality clip fashioned from the cheapest materials, such as the stock Zebralight clip.
First of all, "k" means "one thousand," while "K" stands for kelvins. 5000k = 5,000,000, the number with no unit, and sometimes 5,000 kilometers, while 5000K = 5k kelvins. Also, not for nothing, one can not set "color balance" to a color temperature. Color balance is the adjustment of the intensities of colors, typically referring to the primary colors of red, green, and blue. Adjusting color balance changes the overall mixture of colors in an image and is used for color correction. White balance, otoh, which is what you mistakenly referred to as color balance, balances the color temperature in your photograph by adding the opposite color to those in the image to bring the color temperature back to neutral. To properly set white balance one would not arbitrarily choose a color temperature out of thin air, as you did, but requires calibrating to an 18% grey card, being half way between white and black, in the available ambient lighting, which produces an accurate rendition rather than what could be considered false advertising.
While your images reveal a certain talent which is impressive, and are in and of themselves quite beautiful, they have no relation to reality and will confuse any that are not aware of these details, and disappoint them when they discover for themselves what the SC53c N beam shot actually looks like IRL.
And if you love the color temperature they appear to be in your images, as I do, why not go with an LED that actually produces that color temperature, somewhere between 2700K—3200K, instead of a much cooler 4000K?
I would give almost anything to have a stock Zebralight that produces such a warm temperature as your first image instead of such a pale lifeless neutral, which is the reality of the beam when white balance is properly calibrated.
the clip is important! but i think it's not all about the clip. it's also about what the clip's attached to – the device's general shape and roughness in the clip area. and then on top of that, both of those combined need to be matched to what you're clipping it to. the thickness/material of the pants (or other pocket) matters. a stiff clip without enough clearance is badly matched to thick pocket material. also, delicate material lacking abrasion resistance (think jersey dress pants vs canvas or denim) is not suitable for a rough device.
for example, some sypderco knives with rough FRN scales have really chewed up my pants pockets. my pants are relatively thick and abrasion resistant...
a well tuned clip-device-pocket system should be harmonious. the clip clearance, clip spring tension, and device roughness should give the right balance of ease of insertion over pocket and retention force, and it should not chew up your pants in the process.
when i got a new sc64 series with the flimiser clip, i noticed the change. however, when i compared it to the previous clip, i surprisingly didn't notice a difference in retention or pocket wear. it seemed to perform about the same for my pants, although it did look and feel crappier.
i've never had an issue with the ZL clips being too sharp or putting undue wear and tear on my pants. i have experienced them coming loose, though. i have loctited them when it happened.
i like your clip, but just from the look of it, i wonder if it would have more retention than i need on my thick pants. i might try one though.
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Even if the clip is not used for its intended purpose, it also serves as additional grip when held, lessening the chance of dropping.
It provides superior attachment to headstraps.
A clip is also a benefit for being able to more efficiently index the location of the switch, though the excellent Zebralight side switch design is leagues above most other side switch flashlights.
It provides superior attachment to headstraps.
A clip is also a benefit for being able to more efficiently index the location of the switch, though the excellent Zebralight side switch design is leagues above most other side switch flashlights.
this_is_nascar
Flashaholic
I'm still in the camp of preferring the older thicker clip.
