The Olight/ITP Titanium EOS A3 AAA – First Look

[Luminescent]

The Olight/ITP Titanium EOS A3 AAA – First Look


ITP has produced an amazing little light for an incredibly reasonable price.

There are now three versions –

- Anodized Aluminum

- Stainless Steel

- Titanium


I was so impressed with the original EOS A3 light that I immediately purchased the Stainless Steel version when it became available.

I have just received the Titanium version, and am happy to report that it is built to the same high standards.

The Olight(ITP) EOS A3 Titanium basically offers the weight of Aluminum (only 9 grams!) with the strength, scratch resistance, and durability of Stainless Steel.

All three lights share the same electronics and optics, and share the same maximum output and regulated multi-level output options -


- A low that is low enough to insure an amazing 30 –50 hours (depending on the battery type) and is still bright enough to easily read a paperback book.

- A very nice useful Default MEDIUM level that really is noticeably lower than the HIGH level and noticeably higher than the LOW level. Wow, imagine that!

- A nice bright HIGH level with amazingly good throw for a tiny AAA light. Forget all the sour grapes garbage you might have heard about how the 80 lumens claimed isn't 'real'. In both throw and ceiling bounce tests, the ITP EOS A3 is as bright as any light I own that claims a similar 80 lumen output INCLUDING FENIX.


Let's compare the performance of my Fenix LD01 Stainless to the ITP EOS Stainless and Titanium


BEAM QUALITY


ALL of my ITP lights have very high quality orange peel reflectors that give absolutely PERFECT beam shots with amazingly good throw. These tiny AAA light have some of the best beam shots of any light that I own (best by far in an AAA light).

My Fenix LD01 arrived sporting the worst beam shot of any light that I have purchased that cost over 10 dollars, in the last 10 years. I got it replaced, and the replacement was still not perfect. I have since rubber armored the LD01 and installed an added diffuser. The light now has a beautifully wide even floody beam that is ideal for close up work, but still has enough throw to fill a moderate sized room. Good to know my investment wasn't a total waste.


AVAILABLE LEVELS AND RUN TIME


My ITP lights all have a nice ultra long 30 to 50 hour run time low level. Aside from the long run time, this lower level is very useful when you intentionally don't want too much light (like when you don't want to zap you're your night vision) Output on the ITP EOS A3 is very well regulated throughout the run time until the very end, where there is a couple hours of diminishing output to let you know that the battery is dying. This is EXACTLY how you would want your light to behave, good regulation, but at least some warning. The incredibly long run time in low, could be a life save in an emergency like Katrina, where you might have to rely on the same battery for several days use. This is the BEST run time and most useful LOW level of any multilevel AA or AAA light that I own.

My Fenix LD01 has a LOW level that is only barley lower than the MEDIUM (default) level, and as a result it's way too bright to preserve your night vision, and doesn't give much longer run times. Even the eight and a half hours claimed by Fenix is a ridiculous exaggeration. The LD01 falls out of regulation in barely 4 hours and then limps along in dimmer and dimmer "moon mode" so that if you make it to eight hours at all, you will barley see enough light to even tell that the light is turned on. This is the WORST run time and usefulness when set to LOW level of any multilevel AA or AAA light that I own.



PWM


Both the ITP EOS A3 and the Fenix LD01 use PWM. The LD01 does use a higher frequency so if you are very sensitive to PWM the LD01 might be a better option (though if you are that sensitive, you will probably want to find a light that uses no PWM at all). Personally, I don't notice the PWM of either light, though I used to occasionally notice it on my LOD (which uses a very low PWM frequency).


VALUE

The standard Anodized Aluminum Fenix LD01 is over TWICE as expensive as the equivalent standard ITP EOS A3 in Anodized Aluminum. (~20 vs ~40+ dollars)

My Fenix LD01 Stainless light was also about TWICE as expensive as the competing ITP EOS A3 Stainless (a little over 50 dollars shipped vs a little less than 25 dollars shipped).

Let's compare the new exotic Titanium ITP EOS to the most basic standard Anodized Aluminum LD01 -


Olight(ITP) EOS A3 Titanium -> Going Gear 44.95 – 10% CPF discount = 40.46

Fenix LD01 -> FenixStore 44.95 - %8 CPF discount = 41.35

This means you can own an exotic TITANIUM EOS A3 light for LESS than Fenix's lackluster LD01 in plain old aluminum.

(this is assuming that you add a couple of needed minor purchases to your GoingGear order to total than 49 dollars so GoingGear also gives you free shipping)

Sorry Fenix, but if you put a LD01 on the table (aluminum OR stainless) and a Olight/ITP EOS A3 in pure Titanium right beside it, and let me choose, I know which one I would pick to walk away with.

Since I have already PO'd the Fenix Groupies, let me raise my sights a little –

You put a Surefire Titan and an ITP EOS A3 Titanium on the table, and I still know which one I would pick up.

The Titan


(You think I'm crazy? You can re-sell the Titan to some hopeless Surefire nut, buy Three EOS A3's in Titanium, and pocket a few hundred in change!!!) :devil:

[FONT=&quot]-[/FONT]Luminescent

 

[recDNA]

My LD01 is a little brighter than my ITP AAA aluminum standard ed. (only high)....not enough to matter but definitely brighter.

Have they corrected the UI issue I've read about...failing to switch levels without 2 twists or skipping a level?

 

[HKJ]

My LD01 is a little brighter than my ITP AAA aluminum standard ed. (only high)....not enough to matter but definitely brighter.

Have they corrected the UI issue I've read about...failing to switch levels without 2 twists or skipping a level?

In my test they basically has the same brightness, but there are is small difference in beam profile.

I have not seen any UI problems, but a very fast twist is ignored.

 

[kramer5150]

It needs to be pointed out that titanium is a thermal insulator. It does not have the heat conductive properties of Aluminum. So those of you planning on using this light with a 10440 should keep this in mind. Yes you can run the ITP-A3 off a 10440 and it is INSANELY bright, but also gets INSANELY hot. The time I tried it at MrGmans place, my light got alarmingly hot in 2-3 minutes.

The ITP mode sequence is MED-LO-HI, no memory.

 

[Luminescent]

It needs to be pointed out that titanium is a thermal insulator. It does not have the heat conductive properties of Aluminum. So those of you planning on using this light with a 10440 should keep this in mind. Yes you can run the ITP-A3 off a 10440 and it is INSANELY bright, but also gets INSANELY hot. The time I tried it at MrGmans place, my light got alarmingly hot in 2-3 minutes.

The ITP mode sequence is MED-LO-HI, no memory.

I most emphatically do NOT recommend 10440 batteries in ANY light not specifically designed for them (which would include ALL the ITP EOS A3 versions INCLUDING the aluminum model)

In the lights that ARE designed for 10440s like the Lite Flux, they don't really get much brighter and have lousy run times, so why bother?

Your point about Titanium not being as good as a thermal conductor also applies to the Stainless model.

Very few materials conduct heat as well as aluminum except Copper, Silver, and Diamonds. (Some how, I don't thing we are going to be seeing any lights carved from solid 1000 caret Diamonds for 40 dollars any time real soon.)

Another really good reason to stay with the aluminum model is that way, the light you senselessly destroy will be a lot less expensive.

- Luminescent

 

[HKJ]

In the lights that ARE designed for 10440s like the Lite Flux, they don't really get much brighter and have lousy run times

Where did you get that from?
Try looking at my shotout with AAA light, that might convince your otherwise.
We do agree on not using LiIon in light not designed for LiIon.

 

[DigMe]

The Olight/ITP Titanium EOS A3 AAA – First Look
This means you can own an exotic TITANIUM EOS A3 light for LESS than Fenix's lackluster LD01 in plain old aluminum.

(this is assuming that you add a couple of needed minor purchases to your GoingGear order to total than 49 dollars so GoingGear also gives you free shipping)

so you have to spend $49 in order to make it less than $41?! I see.

Seriously though. It seems like the iTP is a fine light. I think it can stand on it's own without the twisted hyperbole, right?

brad

 

[TONY M]

I have two ITP A3s and they are cracking little lights. My LD01 SS came with a great beam IMO with better throw than the ITP and it is brighter too. Saying that I do prefer the ITP to the LD01 in most ways.

 

[kramer5150]

In the lights that ARE designed for 10440s like the Lite Flux, they don't really get much brighter and have lousy run times, so why bother?


- Luminescent

I don't think this is a true statement. Every 10440 designed light I can think of is significantly brighter when used with the Lithium Ion cell type.

CPF for the most part has a "brighter is better" mentality. Its common for CPF members to brush aside manufacturer warnings and use products in ways that they are not intended in order to get more light OTF. I ran into one this weekend at a CPF meet, where I found another A3-EOS with a 10440 in it.

My commentary here is merely to warn others that Titanium is a thermal insulator and despite the "brighter is better" temptation, members should be aware that they could permanently damage their lights. Lights made of less conductive materials (SST and Ti) are at the greatest risk. ITP does not recommend the use of 10440 cells in any of the A3 lights.

 

[selfbuilt]

Should be a nice light in Titanium - I may pick one up for Mrs Selfbuilt for Xmas (she is currrently EDCing the black-anodized aluminum version). :santa: The lower thermal conductivity of the the titanium/stainless steel versions shouldn't really be a problem for the standard batts she uses.

On the issue of output on 10440, I have output/runtimes graphs for the ITP EOS A3 and LiteFlux LF2XT on in my ITP A3/Maratac review. As you'll see, in my lightbox, the LF2XT is about 50% brighter on 10440 on Max, but with ~half the runtime of a regular NiMH (so may not be worth it to many). The ITP A3, like the Fenix L0D/LD01, is more than twice as bright on 10440 on max, but with an unsafe >4C discharge rate. I will add my voice to chorus against running 10440 in these lights.

Personally, the LF2XT is the only AAA light I have that I would consider running 10440 in (i.e. designed for it with a cut-off circuit). But I prefer to stick with NiMH or L92 lithiums even there, for the greater runtime - and I currently keep a LF2XT on my keychain EDC.

 

[Luminescent]

My LD01 is a little brighter than my ITP AAA aluminum standard ed. (only high)....not enough to matter but definitely brighter.

Have they corrected the UI issue I've read about...failing to switch levels without 2 twists or skipping a level?

I original also thought my Stainless ITP EOS A3 was brighter than my new Titanium version.

It was also a situation where is was just 'a little brighter' but was very consistant - Right up until I reversed the batteries, then it was very consistant THE OTHER WAY (it was NOT the lights, which were identical, it was the conditon of my old NiMH batteries).

Hard to compare my LD01's total output, with the ITP's because the Fenix's beam pattern was so funky, but in ceiling bounce they were identical. (again, after insureing identical batteries).

As others have already commented, the UI on the ITP EOS A3 doesn't have problems with skipped modes unless you switch very very fast or it makes a inconsistant connection.

All mode switching twisty lights suffer from this situation to one degree or another, and I would say that the ITP is about average in this regard.

I have also seen missed modes on the LD01 occasionally, but the situation got better as the light loosened up so I could turn it with a more consistant motion and insure that the on-off-on cycles made clean consistant contact.

I expect that the ITP light will be the same (I have allready seen posts from folks who originally had lots of problems say that the ITP had gotten better with time when it came to the 'missed modes' issue)

- Luminescent

 

[adirondackdestroyer]

I'm considering picking this one up right now, but I'm doing my best at holding off until the Illuminati comes out. We'll see how they stack up against each other.

 

[Luminescent]

so you have to spend $49 in order to make it less than $41?! I see.

brad

Actually, the 49 bucks is calculated on the pre-discount total, so my total bill was less than 45 bucks. The other item I purchase was a small firestarter stick easily worth a few bucks more than the 3.50 or so that it cost me after the discount, so I'm quite pleased.

So, I did get the light for less than 41 dollars, and am pretty damn happy with the other item I purchased also.

I wasn't trying to introduce hyperbole, just to be accurate, so that some helpful Fenix groupie didn't feel compelled to point out, "- but the Fenix Store always has free shipping and GoingGear doesn't because the light is Soooo inexpensive it doesn't qualify!!!! - na, nan, na, na, na.

On the other hand, if by hyperbole, you meant that this isn't about the dealers, I would agree 100%.

We could argue all day on who is being nicer, the dealer that always gives free shipping but only has an 8% discount, or the dealer that only has free shipping on total orders more than 49 dollars (really about 45) and gives a slightly more generous 10% discount.

Fact is, I think they are both being DAMN NICE, they don't have to give CPF members didily squat.

Also, before someone thinks I am trying to knock 4Sevens, I should point out that I didn't buy my LD01 light from them, I want to make that clear. They didn't have any stock on the LD01 in stainless, so I was forced to go elsewhere.

Wonder why the Stainless LD01's disappeared? Could it be that Fenix saw the little EOS A3 Stainless selling for 26 bucks and figured no one was going to be stupid enough to keep paying them TWICE as much for an inferior light, so they stopped making them?

But I am sorry that 4Sevens was out of stock, because I am pretty sure that they would have made sure that I was satisfied in the end.

I like the folks at the 4Sevens, I have done business with them in the past, and they are first rate.

GoingGear was also first rate, they sent me a nice Email indicating when they would be able to ship, and hit that mark and shipped the light right on schedule.

- Luminescent

 

[HKJ]

Wonder why the Stainless LD01's disappeared? Could it be that Fenix saw the little EOS A3 Stainless selling for 26 bucks and figured no one was going to be stupid enough to keep paying them TWICE as much for an inferior light, so they stopped making them?

The SS LD01 was an xmas 2008 special.
And it looks like the Titanium A3 is a Xmas 2009 special, at least the one I got was marked with "Xmas 2009":

Note: The reason for the Xmas label might also be because I bought the M20/A3 XMas set.

 

[Luminescent]

Where did you get that from?
Try looking at my shotout with AAA light, that might convince your otherwise.
We do agree on not using LiIon in light not designed for LiIon.

Not counting lights that were obviously running in direct drive, the only light I saw in the shootout that really seemed to be designed to handle LiIon properly was the LiteFlux.

I had one of the old original LiteFlux AAA lights and 10440s were disappointing, almost no additional brightness, and lousy run times. That light was also too frigin complicated. I gave it away to a computer geek friend who I knew would appreciate it more (he had given me an old PC that didn't interest him anymore, but was about 10 times better than what I was using at the time).

I see that the more recent liteflux does much better, but the runtime still suffers, and I hardly think ONE light from one manufacture constitutes a major paradigm shift.

But thanks for the heads up.

LiIon batteries do offer major power storage vs. weight advantages (less so on volume) so such a shift may be coming (I note that some high end battery operated tools are shifting to LiIon batteries).

For now, 95% of the folks running LiIon 10440 cells in their AAA lights are running them in lights that can not regulate them properly and that just shift to direct drive.

I'm sorry, I don't see this a simple case of "brighter is better," I see it as "abusing your tools is stupid."

- Luminescent

 

[Luminescent]

The SS LD01 was an xmas 2008 special.
And it looks like the Titanium A3 is a Xmas 2009 special, at least the one I got was marked with "Xmas 2009"

Note: The reason for the Xmas label might also be because I bought the M20/A3 XMas set.

You are correct about the Olight/ITP EOS A3 Titanium being a holiday special.

I bought my AAA light individually, and mine is marked the same way.

My Fenix old L0D Q4 was also a 'holiday special', bright red, with cute little snowflakes and bells. That light was virtually perfect in every way, tint, beam, brightness, it's a shame Fenix seems to have lost it recently on the LD01.

As to your point about the SS Fenix light being ONLY a 'holiday special', and that being why it disapeared, I feel compelled to point out that the L0D-Q4 started out life as a 'holiday special' but that didn't keep Fenix from going right on producing 1000's of them after the holidays.

If my Olight/ITP EOS A3 Titanium 'holiday special' gives me even a fraction of the joy that my little L0D Q4 has, then I will be happy indeed.


I suppose though, that some might object to a light marked "X'mas 2009" as an unnecessary bit of frivolity, and I did bring it up in another thread, but forgot to mention it here, so thanks for mentioning it.

- Luminescent

 

[vmspb]

Thanks to this thread, just purchased the Olight AAA Titanium from GoingGear.com in addition to my iTP A3 EOS SS which I like very much using as a keychain. Hope its titanium version would be even better due to its weight.

BTW, the Olight AAA Titanium is described as 9g by GoingGear.com and 32g by BatteryJunction.com (here and after without battery and keychain). Neither seem to be true. SS iTP A3 is actually 23.8/22.5g with/without clip, so the titanium would be lighter. But 9g is the (declared) weight of the aluminum iTP A3 Advanced, so the Ti is to be heavier. Playing with these numbers, densities and unknown pill and glass weight, I would suggest it to be about 12g.

Would someone who has the Ti version in hands measure its actual weight?

 

[Luminescent]

Thanks to this thread, just purchased the Olight AAA Titanium from GoingGear.com in addition to my iTP A3 EOS SS which I like very much using as a keychain. Hope its titanium version would be even better due to its weight.

BTW, the Olight AAA Titanium is described as 9g by GoingGear.com and 32g by BatteryJunction.com (here and after without battery and keychain). Neither seem to be true. SS iTP A3 is actually 23.8/22.5g with/without clip, so the titanium would be lighter. But 9g is the (declared) weight of the aluminum iTP A3 Advanced, so the Ti is to be heavier. Playing with these numbers, densities and unknown pill and glass weight, I would suggest it to be about 12g.

Would someone who has the Ti version in hands measure its actual weight?

You are correct, all three of the ITP EOS A3 lights (AL, TI, and SS) seem to use the same physical deminsions, and due to the added density of titanium the declared weight is too low.

The real weight is closer to 13 to 14 grams (the same or a little less than the L0D-Q4 in anodized aluminum).

Sorry for the earlier missinformation, as you pointed out, the value listed on the web site is wrong.

Being lower in weight than the L0D in aluminum, but strong as a stainless steel light, is still pretty impressive. :thumbsup:

A few more grams just makes the light stronger and more substantial. It still feels feather light in your hand.

Given that most other manufactures price thier titanium lights like they were made of gold, using the excuse of how horribly expensive titanium is compared to other more common metals, a few more grams of titanium is more value for your money.

- Luminescent

 

[HKJ]

Not counting lights that were obviously running in direct drive, the only light I saw in the shootout that really seemed to be designed to handle LiIon properly was the LiteFlux.

Both LF2X and LF2XT are designed for LiIon, Eiger is also specified for LiIon, but I am not very confident about the specification.

I see that the more recent liteflux does much better, but the runtime still suffers, and I hardly think ONE light from one manufacture constitutes a major paradigm shift.

More brightness and shorter runtime, it is no surprise for me

For now, 95% of the folks running LiIon 10440 cells in their AAA lights are running them in lights that can not regulate them properly and that just shift to direct drive.

I do not have any statistic about who abuse their Fenix/Maratac and who uses a LiteFlux, but I agree that many people abuse both light and batteries.

I'm sorry, I don't see this a simple case of "brighter is better," I see it as "abusing your tools is stupid."

Brighter is better is not the case, but having some extra brightness for occasionally cases is very nice.

As to your point about the SS Fenix light being ONLY a 'holiday special', and that being why it disapeared, I feel compelled to point out that the L0D-Q4 started out life as a 'holiday special' but that didn't keep Fenix from going right on producing 1000's of them after the holidays.

Then I wonder why not all suppliers restocked it, but anyway I like the light.

 

[Luminescent]

Now having taken a second more detailed look at the ITP A3 EOS Titanium -

I have to admit that for most folks, if thier only criteria is value, usability, and durability, then they may conclude that the A3 EOS in Stainless Steel may be a better choice than Titanium.

I say this because, in the case of this tiny light, the use of Titanium only buys you about 10 grams weight savings, and getting the threads to turn cleanly and smoothly is ALWAYS an issue with a titanium light, and the ITP is no exception.

I love my titanium A3 light, but it has taken a bit of fiddeling to get it working smoothly.

By trimming the battery spring so that it creates less battery tension, and by using expensive high quality Krytox lubricant, I was able to finally get the light turning reasonably smoothly (but it's still not as smooth as the stainless model even after all that trouble).

When I trimmed the spring, I removed about 1/8 inch from the top of the spring, not from the bottom. Always trim the top of the battery spring, where it contacts the battery, then reshape the part that contacts the battery (because this shape is not too critical). Do not trim the bottom of the spring, otherwise, you will have a hard time getting the spring shaped to fit tightly in the light without falling out.

Folks who have posted comments saying that they are always worried about loosing the head on their EOS A3 light if it should ever unscrew and fall off by itself, might find the additional friction on the titanium light welcome, but I think most folks will not like it, and would perhaps be happier with the stainless model.

Again, the difference in weight is only about 10 grams (the weight of 2 nickels).


- Luminescent