The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

[Wiggle]

Min flux for R2 is about 114 lm (@350mA) and 94 lm (@350mA) for Q3 which is about 22% difference lumens wise. Forward voltage will of course vary from emitter to emitter due to tolerances, but I believe that the flux bin is independant of Vf in the Cree XR-E series.

Yes Q3 is lower than Q4 and Q5 (which are 100 and 107 lm at 350mA respectively), this difference will be less than the 22% calc'ed above. I've done 2 emitter swaps (Q5->Q4-5B and R2->Q3-5A) and in neither case was the reduction noticeable, but the improvement in tint sure was🙂

 

[pobox1475]

Using the difference in the Zebralight H501 as a reference my estimate would be 15-20%.

 

[mon90ey]

Got my Quark 123x 2 (regular, cool white) on Monday, and after 3 days of use, here are my humble observations.

1. Upon receipt and after assembly, took it outside in total darkness along with my L2D Q5. Set them both on turbo (Max) and hit the switches. No Contest. The Quark is a light saber! I have never, in my limted experience with LED's, seen a beam as pure and clean as this one. Nice even spill and NO artifacts! None! The Fenix is and always will be a keeper for me, but it's 180 lumens compared to the Quark's 190 OTF lumens, at least to my eyes, doesn't even qualify for the horse race. I know I'm comparing a 2x123 light against a 2xAA light, but I'm ordering a Quark 2xAA in about two weeks, and am very anxious to compare it with the L2D Q5. That should really tell the tale.

2. Yes, the flash is there, but only if you are cycling thru the modes. If the light has been off for a while, and you turn it on (at least in my sample), there is no flash.

3. Absolutely no PWM-like flicker in the moon mode. It's just not there.

In short, this is the most outstanding flashlight in its class that I have ever owned. If the AA, AA2, and 123 are anywhere near this good, you can't go wrong with these lights. :thumbsup:

 

[bcwang]

Min flux for R2 is about 114 lm (@350mA) and 94 lm (@350mA) for Q3 which is about 22% difference lumens wise. Forward voltage will of course vary from emitter to emitter due to tolerances, but I believe that the flux bin is independant of Vf in the Cree XR-E series.

Yes Q3 is lower than Q4 and Q5 (which are 100 and 107 lm at 350mA respectively), this difference will be less than the 22% calc'ed above. I've done 2 emitter swaps (Q5->Q4-5B and R2->Q3-5A) and in neither case was the reduction noticeable, but the improvement in tint sure was🙂

Good info there. I'm using a L2D rebel 100 right now and wonder where that sits compared to the R2-WH and the Q3-5A. I assume the rebel100 has the flux of near the Q5 bin, and it's supposed to be warm but I'm not sure how much so compared to the Q3-5A. To me, especially at the lower levels, my L2D looks greenish. I certainly hope the Q3-5A will not be dimmer looking than my Rebel100.

 

[DHart]

Yes Q3 is lower than Q4 and Q5 (which are 100 and 107 lm at 350mA respectively), this difference will be less than the 22% calc'ed above. I've done 2 emitter swaps (Q5->Q4-5B and R2->Q3-5A) and in neither case was the reduction noticeable, but the improvement in tint sure was🙂

For those who might be concerned about taking a 12-20% hit in brightness due to selecting a Q3 or Q4 vs. Q5 or R2.... when comparing flashlight brightness, a 100% change in brightness is definitely noticible (a doubling of output). A 50% change is noticible, but not dramatic. A 25% change is subtle enough that it may not be that noticible to everyone. A 12% change would be difficult, if not impossible, for most people to discern.

But as Wiggle indicates, tint differences are what is most noticible!

 

[burntoshine]

the 'flash' people are talking about when you turn the flashlight on in the lowest setting (moonmode) only happens if your flashlight was on in the last 30 seconds. if your light has been off for about 30 seconds or more, it won't do the quick, bright 'flash'. at least that's my experience.

 

[hiker123]

Is 47's going to do some "official" extra accessories with this series - like a white diffuser and a red filter? I was going to buy a Fenix LD20 but the Quark AA2 seems better and has won my heart - now it's just a matter of should I get a warm tint or not... just please make a diffuser so I can hang it in the tent!

I was also planning on getting a Fenix TK20. Would that be different enough from the Quark AA2 and be worth getting as well? I mean besides the mode differences, would they complement one other for camping/canoeing/outdoor use?
Cheers

 

[AFAustin]

I have really been enjoying my Quark AA Tactical the last few nights. One thing that has been a small bother, though, is that too much force is needed to twist the head (to change levels) one-handed. It's not impossible by any means, but hard enough to detract from the enjoyment of using this nice little light. I had read somewhere that the o ring wasn't the problem, as another user had removed it completely with no difference noted. So, I guess I sort of put that thought out of my mind.

I shouldn't have. Tonight, I finally got around to experimenting and did remove the o-ring. It was now very easy---too easy---to twist. Obviously, the o-ring was the problem with mine. A little quality time with the head o-ring, my Dremel, and a sanding block, and---voila'---the head now has just the right amount of resistance. Twisting one-handed is easy, and I am going to enjoy my Quark even more. 🙂

 

[Egsise]

Is 47's going to do some "official" extra accessories with this series - like a white diffuser and a red filter? I was going to buy a Fenix LD20 but the Quark AA2 seems better and has won my heart - now it's just a matter of should I get a warm tint or not... just please make a diffuser so I can hang it in the tent!

I was also planning on getting a Fenix TK20. Would that be different enough from the Quark AA2 and be worth getting as well? I mean besides the mode differences, would they complement one other for camping/canoeing/outdoor use?
Cheers

I have Fenix LD10 and TK20, and for hunting and outdoor use I preordered the Quark AA Q3 5A.
Quark AA will be in my pocket and TK20(+diff.cone) in backpack, for backup/campsite and also if I needed more throw.

When I tested different Fenix models the LD10 and LD20 difference between brightness was so small that I bought LD10 and TK20.
And most of the time the low and medium modes of LD10 are enough.
It's just that if i use LD10 and TK20 at the same time, the LD10 cold blue tint is very noticeable, hate it.
On the other hand, IF size is not a problem, 2xAA would be much more efficient than 1xAA.

I strongly believe that Fenix L/PD series diffuser cone can be used in Quark, the inside of the cone perhaps needs some dremeling.
That is not a problem because those cones are indestructible, and the modification is quite easy because only the "teeth" needs to be partially removed.

 

[CaNo]

Q123-2 HEAD with AA-2 Tube with TWO 14500 cells
Yes, I've done this and it works fine.

DQuark, how bright was this light lumen-wise? Compared to the 17670?

 

[Mr. Tone]

For those who might be concerned about taking a 12-20% hit in brightness due to selecting a Q3 or Q4 vs. Q5 or R2.... when comparing flashlight brightness, a 100% change in brightness is definitely noticible (a doubling of output). A 50% change is noticible, but not dramatic. A 25% change is subtle enough that it may not be that noticible to everyone. A 12% change would be difficult, if not impossible, for most people to discern.

But as Wiggle indicates, tint differences are what is most noticible!

Also the LED ratio of output/current gets smaller as the current drive goes up. So theoretically if you could even perceive the difference in output between the emitters it should be more noticeable at the lower levels than on Max/Turbo. Whatever the rated output percentage difference between the emitters is at 350ma would be smaller at 700ma or 900ma. If I am wrong LED experts chime in to correct.

 

[Wiggle]

Also the LED ratio of output/current gets smaller as the current drive goes up. So theoretically if you could even perceive the difference in output between the emitters it should be more noticeable at the lower levels than on Max/Turbo. Whatever the rated output percentage difference between the emitters is at 350ma would be smaller at 700ma or 900ma. If I am wrong LED experts chime in to correct.

Should be the same relative difference. Both emitters will get less efficient at higher currents but the outputs should still be the 15-20% (or whatever value) different.

 

[Mr. Tone]

Should be the same relative difference. Both emitters will get less efficient at higher currents but the outputs should still be the 15-20% (or whatever value) different.

Ah, yes. It was way early when I wrote that. Yes, the difference would be relative and I laugh at my cognitive abilities on 2-3 hours sleep. :nana: Thanks for the correction.

 

[oldpal]

the 'flash' people are talking about when you turn the flashlight on in the lowest setting (moonmode) only happens if your flashlight was on in the last 30 seconds. if your light has been off for about 30 seconds or more, it won't do the quick, bright 'flash'. at least that's my experience.

My QAA with 14500s does it each time, no matter how long it has been off. This flash is very insignificant and shouldn't be a concern for anyone.

Hugh

 

[Julian Holtz]

Beacon mode

We're looking at other options such as driving it at a lower current as well as the time between pulses. There are too many possibilities.

I can't wait to get my neutral AA and AA², and from what I have read, I'm sure I will love them.
But that does not keep the little pedantic perfectionist in me from disagreeing that the current beacon mode is the best what could be possible.
In my opinion, 0.25sec flashes, 2sec apart, would be better. This would be the same duty cycle, thus the same runtime.

My thoughts are the following:
The bacon mode should make it easy for the light to be found in an emergency, right?
Now imagine one is searching something in the wilderness or so. For how long would one look in the same direction? 10sec? I think less.
So a 2sec strobe mode would be more likely to flash while someone looks in the right direction.
And even if someone saw the 10s flash:
The most likely reaction would be: "Wait, I think I saw something over there!" and then - nothing for 10sec. But how long will someone continue to watch? Possibly less than 10sec, but surely more than 2sec.

Just a little nitpicking.
Anticipation is the most joy.😎

Cheers,

Julez

 

[DM51]

Re: Beacon mode

The bacon mode should make it easy for the light to be found in an emergency

Mmmm bacon...

LOL, yes, just follow your nose and you'll find it easily... [sorry Julian, couldn't resist it!]

 

[matrixshaman]

I have really been enjoying my Quark AA Tactical the last few nights. One thing that has been a small bother, though, is that too much force is needed to twist the head (to change levels) one-handed. It's not impossible by any means, but hard enough to detract from the enjoyment of using this nice little light. I had read somewhere that the o ring wasn't the problem, as another user had removed it completely with no difference noted. So, I guess I sort of put that thought out of my mind.

I shouldn't have. Tonight, I finally got around to experimenting and did remove the o-ring. It was now very easy---too easy---to twist. Obviously, the o-ring was the problem with mine. A little quality time with the head o-ring, my Dremel, and a sanding block, and---voila'---the head now has just the right amount of resistance. Twisting one-handed is easy, and I am going to enjoy my Quark even more. 🙂

Glad to hear yours is better. That may have been me talking about finding no difference after removing the O-ring. I ended up getting a replacement body which is better but not quite 100% where I'd like it. It still looks on mine like the threads weren't cut completely to the bottom. Can you expand a bit on exactly what areas you dremeled or sanded? Was the O-ring groove not deep enough? Did you use a different O-ring? When I get the time I plan on some filing or dremel work to fine tune this to a purring kitten 🙂

 

[DHart]

DQuark, how bright was this light lumen-wise? Compared to the 17670?

Insignificant difference.

 

[Egsise]

Re: Beacon mode

I can't wait to get my neutral AA and AA², and from what I have read, I'm sure I will love them.
But that does not keep the little pedantic perfectionist in me from disagreeing that the current beacon mode is the best what could be possible.
In my opinion, 0.25sec flashes, 2sec apart, would be better. This would be the same duty cycle, thus the same runtime.

My thoughts are the following:
The bacon mode should make it easy for the light to be found in an emergency, right?
Now imagine one is searching something in the wilderness or so. For how long would one look in the same direction? 10sec? I think less.
So a 2sec strobe mode would be more likely to flash while someone looks in the right direction.
And even if someone saw the 10s flash:
The most likely reaction would be: "Wait, I think I saw something over there!" and then - nothing for 10sec. But how long will someone continue to watch? Possibly less than 10sec, but surely more than 2sec.

Just a little nitpicking.
Anticipation is the most joy.😎

Cheers,

Julez

Very short flash every 2sec would be my choice too, the runtime would still be decent, and it would make the beacon mode more usable.
Also the flashing beacon would be easier to spot than ramping beacon.
I just have to hope that 4sevens left a backdoor so we can reprogram the Quark...

 

[pobox1475]

My one wish is that they could have designed a deep pocket clip at least for the 123 since it is the most pock friendly. I personally don't like them loose in pocket or sticking out and easily snagged or lost. Since my preferred warm tint is a limited run I am stuck with having to carry a bag.