The Quark lights thread! (Part 4)

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Re: The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

Unforgiven said:
There are a few threads on it in the 4sevens forum at the market place.
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At first I thought it may have been a very bright flash. Bad if I don't want someone to know where I am working security at night and doing paper work.

Then I saw how bright the pre flash really was and then I :crackup: I got all concerned over a non issue for me. I still can't wait for this light to get here. I really need to buy backups in the future. Not having a flashlight now sucks
 
Re: The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

Personally, the pre-flash doesn't bother me at all...in fact, I had my Q123 (+AA body) for a couple of weeks at the time and I never noticed it until I read about it at the CPFMP.
 
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Re: The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

I know that the preflash is a pretty big issue here on CPF, but I don't get it. If it bothers you, there is such an easy fix, just cover the light in your hand etc when you turn it on.

A much bigger problem for me which nobody seems to care about is the startup voltage a circuit needs. Most lights can run for days on low but few people realise that it doesn't really matter if you can't turn your light on. For ex, if your battery is almost down and your running it on low and you turn it off cause you want to save battery, you wont be able to turn on the light again even though that the light would had continue to run for a couple of hours if you hadn't turned it off. In a survival situation this could be crucial. A direct driven light would had crammed all the juice out of that battery. Which makes me think that most runtime test on low levels are not that useful. At least that was the case with my old multi stage lights with circuits like Fenix L2D and Nitecore DI. Has that changed?
 
Re: The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

Lobo said:
...A much bigger problem for me which nobody seems to care about is the startup voltage a circuit needs. Most lights can run for days on low but few people realise that it doesn't really matter if you can't turn your light on. For ex, if your battery is almost down and your running it on low and you turn it off cause you want to save battery, you wont be able to turn on the light again even though that the light would had continue to run for a couple of hours if you hadn't turned it off. In a survival situation this could be crucial. A direct driven light would had crammed all the juice out of that battery. Which makes me think that most runtime test on low levels are not that useful. At least that was the case with my old multi stage lights with circuits like Fenix L2D and Nitecore DI. Has that changed?
Click to expand...

Excellent point...that's something I've noticed with my own Fenix lights. Maybe that should be something included in reviews...both a constant runtime and intermittent, at least on Low. I suspect you get much less out of a battery using it intermittently.
 
Re: The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

With almost 30 days of run time on a 2x123A neutral LED I'm not going to be to concerned about a couple of hours.
 
Re: The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

I re-read the thread but haven't seen it yet.

For the 2x 123A model what will the battery and brightness difference actually be between neutral and standard?

The only things I have heard is dimmer and shorter:shrug:
 
Re: The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

Lobo said:
I know that the preflash is a pretty big issue here on CPF, but I don't get it. If it bothers you, there is such an easy fix, just cover the light in your hand etc when you turn it on.

A much bigger problem for me which nobody seems to care about is the startup voltage a circuit needs. Most lights can run for days on low but few people realise that it doesn't really matter if you can't turn your light on. For ex, if your battery is almost down and your running it on low and you turn it off cause you want to save battery, you wont be able to turn on the light again even though that the light would had continue to run for a couple of hours if you hadn't turned it off. In a survival situation this could be crucial. A direct driven light would had crammed all the juice out of that battery. Which makes me think that most runtime test on low levels are not that useful. At least that was the case with my old multi stage lights with circuits like Fenix L2D and Nitecore DI. Has that changed?
Click to expand...

You mean that Quark working voltage is 0.9-4.2V, and if i leave my Quark AA on low it drains the battery below overdischarge protection which is at 0.9V?
Or do you mean that it needs more than 0.9V, if it needs, how much is it?
I have not noticed this kind of behaviour in my Fenix LD10, i need to run a few tests with it....
 
I think we could find a scenario for any light that isn't perfect. For those using primary batteries having them sucked completely dry is no problem. However, for those using rechargables that is a problem. I personally like having the light maintain the same level of brightness on any given level for however long it can. That can be seen as a weakness in a "survival" situation but in others it is a Godsend. I have a couple of Fenix lights that just basically drop down in level to the closest they can regulate. For instance, if I am using turbo and the batts can't maintain regulation anymore it drops down to medium or low. I don't have my Quarks yet so I don't know how they will respond.
 
Re: The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

Egsise said:
You mean that Quark working voltage is 0.9-4.2V, and if i leave my Quark AA on low it drains the battery below overdischarge protection which is at 0.9V?
Or do you mean that it needs more than 0.9V, if it needs, how much is it?
I have not noticed this kind of behaviour in my Fenix LD10, i need to run a few tests with it....
Click to expand...

I don't know about the working voltage of the Quark(or that many details at all), I just mentioned a problem I discovered on other multistage lights, and I guess that goes for all multistage lights(especially those with really really low levels). This is just an issue I remember when you guys brought up other "minor" issues. I don't remember at which voltage my light(think it was a L1D or NDI) but I remember that if I didn't turn the light off, it ran for a LONG time. But if I turned it off and tried to turn it on again, it refused. So the circuit needed more start up juice than it required to run the light. My thought was just that the runtimes could be very misgiving then(especially on lights that has REALLY low) since they will run a lot longer than it's actually practical(you can't turn the light on if it's off).

About the over discharge protection, I don't know if the Quark has that(I asked the same question in an earlier post). The 0,9 might just be the voltage the circuit requires to run the light and you will the battery down if you leave it?
And does the Quark step down in levels or does it just empty the battery and then don't work on low?

Mr. Tone said:
I think we could find a scenario for any light that isn't perfect. For those using primary batteries having them sucked completely dry is no problem. However, for those using rechargables that is a problem. I personally like having the light maintain the same level of brightness on any given level for however long it can. That can be seen as a weakness in a "survival" situation but in others it is a Godsend. I have a couple of Fenix lights that just basically drop down in level to the closest they can regulate. For instance, if I am using turbo and the batts can't maintain regulation anymore it drops down to medium or low. I don't have my Quarks yet so I don't know how they will respond.
Click to expand...
Oh, I know, there are scenarios when it's prefered that you can't suck your batteries dry. I'm just nitpicking, and was bringing up an "issue" many people don't think about. Personally, I would prefer if I could chose myself to turn of the battery. It would be ideal if there was a mode that was direct drive, and it was up to the user to care for the batteries. But this is as said just nitpicking. Overall I think the Quark seems to be a terrific light.
 
You were right, my LD10 refuses to start when it was on low, and i shut it, battery was almost empty the open circuit voltage was ~1.0V

On the other hand, overdischarge protection is something why i dont use 2xAA lights, they ruin rechargeable batteries easier than 1xAA lights.
There is always that Murphy dude who leaves my lights on until batteries are empty, or overdischarge protection is triggered....
 
Re: The Quark lights thread! (Part 3)

Mikellen said:
I ordered within the first couple of hours that the warm tacticals became available and I didn't receive a shipping notice.
Maybe tomorrow (I hope, I hope, I hope). 😱
Click to expand...

Just checked my e-mail and I got the "shipped" status! :twothumbs
 
Got a "shipped" notice on my 123 Tactical Neutral Tint, no clip, this morning. :thumbsup:
 
Got a "shipped" notice on my 123 Tactical Neutral Tint, no clip, this morning.
Click to expand...
+1. Will give an overall impression of it 24 hours after it has been in hand. It will be my first warm tint and I am anxious to say the least.
 
For those that were wondering, I got my replacement 2xAA Quark today (first one had no visible output change between high and max) and the replacement fixed the problem.

The max is noticeably brighter now and its on par with my Fenix T1's max. I'd say the quark has a wider spill beam that is less intense than the T1, and the Quark is on par or brighter in the throw spot.

Very impressed with the light and happy that I can consolidate all my flashlight needs into this one light (camping, biking, around the house, and edc with the 1xAA tube).
 
I think my returned order (to exchange for a Warm) got lost in the mail 🙁 I has been 8 days and 4Sevens hasn't received it. WTF USPS.
 
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