The Quark lights thread! (Part 4)

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I have a Lego problem. I purchased a QAA regular with 123 body and have no problems switching back and forth. The QAA head is a little tight but usable on the AA tube, and turns nicely on the 123 tube.

Yesterday I took delivery of a QAA2 Tactical Warm. I tried to Lego with the AA tube, and had no problems, but when I tried to lego with the 123 tube it did not light. I think the thread length of the 123 tube is a little short to make contact with the tactical tailcap.
(so it is permanently locked out)

Any ideas.
 
Ordred my QAAWT (yay for acronyms!) but haven't received yet, and wanted to know:

How many people have lights w/o the pre-flash problem (switching to a diff. mode when off causes it to flash brightly at turn-on). Is there a cure for this? Or is it just luck of the batch?
 
Ordred my QAAWT (yay for acronyms!) but haven't received yet, and wanted to know:

How many people have lights w/o the pre-flash problem (switching to a diff. mode when off causes it to flash brightly at turn-on). Is there a cure for this? Or is it just luck of the batch?

I have a flash on all my lights, both standard and tactical and it has nothing with mode change to do.
Here is from my tactical 2x123:
Quark1232turnon.png


My regular AA version looks like this:
QuarkAA%20turnon.png


I do not have a low voltage tactical head, but I will guess that is works the sames as my regular AA version.
 
Which Quark to buy? AA or 123?

Heya just got a nitecore d10 r2 and its really small and am quite impressed with it. Now I'm thinking of getting a quark. Should I get a quark AA or 123? Whats the difference between regular and tactical? It says on the site that the Q123 is 190 lumens max and the AA is 90, so I guess that the quark 123 is a lot brighter? Thanks.
 
Re: Which Quark to buy? AA or 123?

the quark123 is indeed quite a bit brighter.

run the quarkAA on 14500s, though, and you'll get 170 lm.
 
Re: Which Quark to buy? AA or 123?

If the size difference doesn't matter, get the QuarkAA. You can get the brightness of the 123 by using a 14500 cell and still have the flexiblity to run it on Alk or NiMH AA cells. I bought an additional 123 body to go with my QuarkAA and can switch around to any of the batteries.
 
Re: Which Quark to buy? AA or 123?

Heya just got a nitecore d10 r2 and its really small and am quite impressed with it. Now I'm thinking of getting a quark. Should I get a quark AA or 123? Whats the difference between regular and tactical? It says on the site that the Q123 is 190 lumens max and the AA is 90, so I guess that the quark 123 is a lot brighter? Thanks.

For an extra $20 you can have both with one head.
http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297_304
 
I only have this bunch here and they all have it:
DSC_7557.jpg


The two small ones are from the first batch and the two big ones are with warm emitters, i.e. very recent.

Since they're modular, I guess that pretty sums up all has it. 😱oo:
 
I only have this bunch here and they all have it:
DSC_7557.jpg


The two small ones are from the first batch and the two big ones are with warm emitters, i.e. very recent.

I think though that the preflash in the same light can show with varying intensity, at least judging from what I saw in the tactical Quark demonstration video (e.g. 1:30 and 2:08). I'd say it's quite simple - if you don't see it, it's not there 🙂
 
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Re: Which Quark to buy? AA or 123?

Get the Q123, the QAA doesn't function correctly and comes with heads that are too tight to use without serious frustration. Until you hear it has been corrected I wouldn't get one.
 
Since they're modular, I guess that pretty sums up all has it. 😱oo:

Probably, but my selection does not cover everything, I am missing low voltage tactical and high voltage standard and 4Sevens might have modified the program and/or circuit to reduce the flash-

But my guess is that they all have it.

I think though that the preflash in the same light can show with varying intensity, at least judging from what I saw in the tactical Quark demonstration video (e.g. 1:30 and 2:09). I'd say it's quite simple - if you don't see it, it's not there 🙂

Or you can not see it, just like some people does not see pwm.
I can see that there is something "funny" when turning on, but I am using an oscilloscope and light sensor to get the exact flashing.
This also showed something else on the high voltage head, strobe looks like this (This has no practical implications):
Quark1232strobe.png
 
Or you can not see it, just like some people does not see pwm. I can see that there is something "funny" when turning on, but I am using an oscilloscope and light sensor to get the exact flashing.

Hmm, then maybe tactical versions are worse :shrug: Have you looked at the demonstration video? I don't think anyone could miss the flash like the one at 2:08, but unfortunately I do see PWM 😉
 
Hmm, then maybe tactical versions are worse :shrug: Have you looked at the demonstration video? I don't think anyone could miss the flash like the one at 2:08, but unfortunately I do see PWM 😉

Video is not really a good media to show this kind of flashes in. In a video each picture is shown for 0.04 second (Depending on format), i.e. a 0.003 second flash will be stretched more than 10 times, if it is captured, the flash might also happen between frames and then it will not be recorded.

The 0.003 second includes both peaks in the trace and the pause between, the first very bright peek is more like 0.0002 second!
 
Re: Which Quark to buy? AA or 123?

The AA version is more versitile. You can run on NIMH, lithium primaries, or 14500's for maximum output.

The clip is also removable and reversible, neither of which you can do with the CR123 body.
 
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