The Quark lights thread! (Part 5)

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jcw122

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Has it been mentioned that the softer rubber boot and tool are available now?:)

Are you sure? Looks like it's just a kit to change your boot to be a blue one. Does this change how hard the button is to press?
 

Nitroz

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Are you sure? Looks like it's just a kit to change your boot to be a blue one. Does this change how hard the button is to press?

It is suppose to.

Does anyone have any pictures of this blue button on a regular quark?
 

DHart

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Has anyone tried the 123x2 head with a single primary 123 battery in the 123 body?

I wonder if this combo would work. Obviously with a RCR123 you could use the small body no problem, but I was wondering if primaries would be an option as well.

Can't answer your question directly with respect to primaries because I don't use primaries (except as back-up/emergencies) but I can say that with a 4.2v li-ion, the 123-2 head runs great... especially the 123-2 head driven by a 17670! I love that combo.
 

Nitroz

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Can't answer your question directly with respect to primaries because I don't use primaries (except as back-up/emergencies) but I can say that with a 4.2v li-ion, the 123-2 head runs great... especially the 123-2 head driven by a 17670! I love that combo.

Excellent news! I made the right choice then.
 

Badbeams3

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Some neutral white heads are up for sale. Missing are the 123x2 heads...the one I want.
 

Owen

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Anybody's 2AA losing the ability to program when the batteries get low?
This concerns me since the single AA model uses the same bezel.
I'd been using my Hybrids with no problems, but switched to alkalines since they're free at work. Tossed the batteries without checking voltage or anything, but will probably burn another set of alkalines tonight on Max, and see if it happens again.
I know they were low enough that Max wasn't much brighter than High...then when I tried to reset the levels, it would go to moon then back to high. No intermediate levels, no strobe to verify programming, just back to high.
 

yuk

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Does anyone know if the spare Quark 123x2 body with its covers could be a waterproof battery case?
 

kwkarth

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Does anyone know if the spare Quark 123x2 body with its covers could be a waterproof battery case?
I suspect it would. I have a spare 2xAA tube and the screw on end caps seem to make good compression with the O-rings on the tube on both ends.
 

yuk

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Thank you guys, but basically my plan failed. I wanted to have a Q123 in my pocket as my main light and the x2 tube in my bag just in the I case I needed a bigger light or longer runtimes, but I can't use neither the Q123's head with 2 batteries, nor the Q123x2's head with one battery because it falls out of regulation. :sigh:
 

CaNo

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Thank you guys, but basically my plan failed. I wanted to have a Q123 in my pocket as my main light and the x2 tube in my bag just in the I case I needed a bigger light or longer runtimes, but I can't use neither the Q123's head with 2 batteries, nor the Q123x2's head with one battery because it falls out of regulation. :sigh:

If you buy the Q123*2 light and a spare Q123 body tube it will work. The regulation minimum for the Q123*2 head is 3.0v, and a lithium battery is a minimum of 3.0v. Stick with your plan bud!
 

Marduke

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CaNo

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Thank you guys, but basically my plan failed. I wanted to have a Q123 in my pocket as my main light and the x2 tube in my bag just in the I case I needed a bigger light or longer runtimes, but I can't use neither the Q123's head with 2 batteries, nor the Q123x2's head with one battery because it falls out of regulation. :sigh:

Alright... the Duke even confirmed it. To make your plan work, use a 3.7v RCR123 cell with the Q123 tube and Q123*2 head. The 17670 cell he was referring to is also 3.7v, so you should have no problem with this arrangement. Also keep that in mind. It is also another great set-up with the Q123*2. :popcorn:
 

Owen

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Thank you guys, but basically my plan failed. I wanted to have a Q123 in my pocket as my main light and the x2 tube in my bag just in the I case I needed a bigger light or longer runtimes, but I can't use neither the Q123's head with 2 batteries, nor the Q123x2's head with one battery because it falls out of regulation. :sigh:
You could have the 2x123 body with a 17670, or 2AA body with rechargeables, lithiums, or alkalines in your bag, to complement the 1x123 in your pocket, though. That .9-4.2V head is really versatile.

If mine is still doing well in a few more weeks, and I decide to get another 2AA, I'm going to order a clipless 1x123 body for use with a R123, and 2x123 body for use with a 17670.
 

yuk

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[...]or 2AA body with rechargeables, lithiums, or alkalines in your bag, to complement the 1x123 in your pocket, though. That .9-4.2V head is really versatile.[...]
I don't get it. The 2AA tube can hold 123s?

I see my best bet for max versatility is a 2x123 body and a Q123 with RCRs. I haven't use any rechargeable batteries in a flashlight in the past, for some reason I don't trust them... Maybe it's time to reconsider. Are the AWs still the best and safest ones out there? ;)
 
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