The Quark lights thread! (Part 5)

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Crimson

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No it can't. I think he was just suggesting having AA's as backups, which is a good idea because of their availability. When I finally get around to getting some 14500's, I will keep one in my QAA and have two eneloops in my QAA^2 body. For now, three eneloops do the job.
 

tslrc

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I read somewhere that either of the different Quark heads (.9-4.2 or 3-9) could be used with the 2-123 body and a 17670 cell, but is there any difference in Max or any other modes depending on which head you use with a 17670 cell? Is one better than the other for any other reason, efficiency, brightness, etc...

I'm thinking Quark Lego here, and of also getting into Li Ion for the first time. I've been researching and I know of the extra care one needs while using Li Ion.

Edit: Added additional ?
 

Badbeams3

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I read somewhere that either of the different Quark heads (.9-4.2 or 3-9) could be used with the 2-123 body and a 17670 cell, but is there any difference in Max or any other modes depending on which head you use with a 17670 cell? Is one better than the other for any other reason, efficiency, brightness, etc...

I'm thinking Quark Lego here, and of also getting into Li Ion for the first time. I've been researching and I know of the extra care one needs while using Li Ion.

Edit: Added additional ?

If your going to run only Li-ion the 2x123 head is the way to go as it drops in brightness fast at around 3 volts. Might be a tad brighter too.

If you want flexibility you have no choice but to go with the other head.
 

DHart

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Thank you guys, but basically my plan failed. I wanted to have a Q123 in my pocket as my main light and the x2 tube in my bag just in the I case I needed a bigger light or longer runtimes, but I can't use neither the Q123's head with 2 batteries, nor the Q123x2's head with one battery because it falls out of regulation. :sigh:

Use a 17670 in your 123x2 and you'll be thrilled with the performance...
 
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tslrc

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Thx Badbeams3...... I shoulda mentioned my plan for Quark Lego, I was gonna get a Tactical 2AA, a regular AA, and by getting the 2x123 body I'd have quite a setup, then able to use a 17670 or eventually 14500 (in the regular AA) if I want. I was thinking in this way I wouldn't need the 2x123 head which saves some $$$$
 

wapkil

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The 123^2 head is decently regulated on 1xRCR cell, which is why running it on 17670 is a popular setup.

Are you sure that it will run regulated with an RCR?

A 17670 is bigger and holds the voltage better. Looking at the HKJ's graph, I'm afraid that an 123-2 head at 0.9A with a freshly charged RCR will run for the first three or four minutes in regulation (i.e. at or above 3.6V) and then the voltage and the output will have to drop.
 

Biginboca

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I'm afraid that an 123-2 head at 0.9A with a freshly charged RCR will run for the first three or four minutes in regulation (i.e. at or above 3.6V) and then the voltage and the output will have to drop.

Is there a definitive answer on this? Has anyone tested the RCR in the 123x2 head and graphed the output?
 

kwkarth

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Is there a definitive answer on this? Has anyone tested the RCR in the 123x2 head and graphed the output?
Are you talking about 1xRCR123 or 2xRCR123 with a 123x2 head?
You can forget 1xRCR123 with a 123x2 head.
As you can see an rcr123 is good for about 30 minutes with the 1x123 head.
Reading between the lines, you can estimate 2xRCR123's on a 123x2 head to go for about 1.5 hours at best.
 

Biginboca

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Are you talking about 1xRCR123 or 2xRCR123 with a 123x2 head?
You can forget 1xRCR123 with a 123x2 head.

Yes, I was asking about 1 x RCR123 with the 123x2 Head. I have a single 123 body coming today, and I am going to try the 123x2 head and a single RCR to see how it performs.

I ordered the 1x123 body last week so I could use this combo, and if this doesn't work I will have wasted $20... :mad:

I had thought that the light would just direct drive on Turbo and last maybe 35 mins to 50%.
 
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wapkil

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Yes, I was asking about 1 x RCR123 with the 123x2 Head. I have a single 123 body coming today, and I am going to try the 123x2 head and a single RCR to see how it performs.

I ordered the 1x123 body last week so I could use this combo, and if this doesn't work I will have wasted $20... :mad:

I had thought that the light would just direct drive on Turbo and last maybe 35 mins to 50%.

I think it should work somehow. It may be unregulated but the brightness with an 123-2 head for most of the runtime should still be similar to the an 123 head. At least that's what I guessed looking at the graphs, please report how your setup really performed.
 

xenonk

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I had thought that the light would just direct drive on Turbo and last maybe 35 mins to 50%.
I don't see why it wouldn't work. It ought to behave like it does on 17670, only with the RCR123 having far less capacity.
 

NonSenCe

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i caved in.

ordered a titanium quark aa regular.

i just pray that i made a right choice.

i still kinda want the momentary and the simple to use interface. and hope i didnt make a mistake buying the regular quark with its damn blinker modes..

because i wanted the momentary, i ordered a tactical tailcap and blue boot kit just in case if they can be swapped into the Ti regular version. -no reply from 47s yet on my questions in cpfmp, and time is running out on preorders.

now.. i need to sell something to recoup some of the 100$ i just spent.
 
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wapkil

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I don't see why it wouldn't work. It ought to behave like it does on 17670, only with the RCR123 having far less capacity.

As I wrote in the previous post - an RCR is smaller than an 17670 and won't able to hold the voltage as well as an 17670. If the 123-2 head runs in regulation only above ~3.6V (like in the HKJ's graph), the battery will probably be able to supply it only for the first few minutes. If that's the case, it will work afterwards but will work unregulated with the output diminishing as the battery voltage gets lower.

That's what the graphs told me, I'm also interested to here how it works in practice.
 

kwkarth

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As I wrote in the previous post - an RCR is smaller than an 17670 and won't able to hold the voltage as well as an 17670. If the 123-2 head runs in regulation only above ~3.6V (like in the HKJ's graph), the battery will probably be able to supply it only for the first few minutes. If that's the case, it will work afterwards but will work unregulated with the output diminishing as the battery voltage gets lower.

That's what the graphs told me, I'm also interested to here how it works in practice.
Ditto. Beginboca, I'm interested to read your results!
 

Biginboca

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Ditto. Beginboca, I'm interested to read your results!

Ok, well here you go. In my unscientific testing it works fine!

I only have one light but here is how I tested. I ran the 123x1 body with 123x2 Head on Turbo for 20 minutes with a AW RCR123 that was maybe 80% charged at start. Then I tested all the levels to see how bright the turbo was by itself in also the contrast stepping up from high to turbo.

Then I quickly switched to an AW 17670 which was also about 80% charged in the 123x2 Body with the same head, tested the turbo for brightness by itself and also switching from high to turbo to see the contrast in the stepping.

They appeared to my eyes to be exactly the same. I know it's not scientific, but I'm not selfbuilt :grin2:

I also tried the 123 body w/ 123x2 Head and a partially used (50%) 123 primary. Switching between setting it gets no brighter than medium. So high and Turbo look exactly the same brightness as medium with the used 123 primary.

So there you go. I don't feel that I wasted $20!

I would like to charge the AW123 fully and then see how long it runs on turbo before dropping to a level equivalent to high, but I'll try that another time. For now I am satisfied with these results, and I also like my Sterile Lego 123x1 light!
 

CRZ

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I've been checking out a lot of different lights that have been reviewed here, and as a licensed and regular concealed handgun carrier I was pretty late in the game of ensuring I always had a flashlight on me.

But instead of rushing out to buy a department store light or to plunk down what I consider to be an inordinate amount of cash on a Surefire, I figured I'd google for the experts on the subject and came upon this place. When I was initially reading about this obsession most of you share I didn't think I had much in common with you. I thought a flashlight was a tool, nothing more, nothing less. I thought it would be like being obsessed about a wrench.

Weeks later, I still don't know a fraction of what the serious hardcore flashaholics around here have forgotten, but I felt pretty good about picking up a Quark 123*2 Tactical. And after some research and the many recommendations, I also picked up a couple of the AW protected 17670s and the WF139 charger 4Sevens has on his site.

I ordered it Friday. It showed up in my mailbox at lunch today.

Now I'm not so sure I haven't picked up an unhealthy issue. I had no qualms about a cool white tint on the flashlight, and while I know that many on this forum have issues with off-color tints I think this light suits my needs perfectly. That said, I can't help being curious about how it would look with a different tint.

I haven't stopped messing with it. This afternoon I've been particularly unproductive at work, trying merely to decide which two modes I'm going to settle in on. And while I'm certainly not already considering which light I want to buy next, I can now understand why having a quality light like this can start to change your mind about the functionality and reliability of having flashlights of this caliber.

In any case, I greatly appreciate all the posters that have aided me in making this purchase, and simultaneously curse you all for starting me on what looks to be a fairly expensive obsession. :broke:
 

kwkarth

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Ok, well here you go. In my unscientific testing it works fine!

I only have one light but here is how I tested. I ran the 123x1 body with 123x2 Head on Turbo for 20 minutes with a AW RCR123 that was maybe 80% charged at start. Then I tested all the levels to see how bright the turbo was by itself in also the contrast stepping up from high to turbo.

Then I quickly switched to an AW 17670 which was also about 80% charged in the 123x2 Body with the same head, tested the turbo for brightness by itself and also switching from high to turbo to see the contrast in the stepping.

They appeared to my eyes to be exactly the same. I know it's not scientific, but I'm not selfbuilt :grin2:

I also tried the 123 body w/ 123x2 Head and a partially used (50%) 123 primary. Switching between setting it gets no brighter than medium. So high and Turbo look exactly the same brightness as medium with the used 123 primary.

So there you go. I don't feel that I wasted $20!

I would like to charge the AW123 fully and then see how long it runs on turbo before dropping to a level equivalent to high, but I'll try that another time. For now I am satisfied with these results, and I also like my Sterile Lego 123x1 light!
Well, in that case, congratulations! I seem to remember reading in one of the Quark threads, someone (might have been David) posting that the circuit in the 1x123 head was boost only and the circuit in the 2x123 head was buck only, so I'm a bit puzzled how the superior current drain capability of the RCR over the 123 primary turns into longer run time on turbo, but I'm sure there's a rational explanation. We just don't have all the information to accurately characterize what's going on.

Thanks for the update!
k
 
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