dasBULK
Newly Enlightened
Here's the "sharp" threads on my quark turbo 123sq'rd.
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I just got it recently in the limited warm white runs. I was surprised to have found the square threading gone. 4sevens refused to make any single cell limited runs and asks users to lego themselves if they already have a single cell tube, or alternatively to buy a spare tube. How then do they expect users to lego the lights when the threadings are different?How long ago did you get it? Recently?
Must be some thing new.
I guess I should say that the two issues with mine do not affect performance.
I can't see any artifact from the tiny bubble and the threading, while not square still works fine.
Just curious more than anything.
Hell, now that I'm looking at it more, I can see a small hair or something on the side of the led lense...
I think I must have gotten a bad one. It works fne but I'm kinda worried about if it might pose a problem later.
Hmm.
Let me see if I can't post a pic from my phone.
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well that wasn't a pain in the *** at all...
I just got it recently in the limited warm white runs. I was surprised to have found the square threading gone. 4sevens refused to make any single cell limited runs and asks users to lego themselves if they already have a single cell tube, or alternatively to buy a spare tube. How then do they expect users to lego the lights when the threadings are different?
And to answer to your question, square threadings are more robust. Not that it really matters to me but I am just voicing a concern for others who has an intent to lego their lights.
Btw, I believe the hair you are talking about is the contact wire for the LED diodes and is totally harmless. It is supposed to be there.
I guess a few out of spec pieces got on the boat. lol Totally not worried. That kind of thing can happen.
I work manufacturing and know all to well what happens when specs get miffed once in a blue moon.
I should also say that I ordered from firearmspro.com
Just about to place my first ever Quark order for a couple of different Quark torch types (turbo 123-2 high-voltage, AA-2 low voltage) plus an extra body (123) to do some lego'ing with various cells (16340, 17670, 14500, dummy-123, dummy-AA).
I had the objective of being able to run any head on even a single alkalines AA/AAA in an emergency.
So I have a couple of questions, please excuse me if they are silly, still learning...
1) does the square vs "sharp" thread issue only apply to the male thread side or both? If it were both, then our lego plans are foiled as you say pjandyho, but if it's male-side only, then things should still work ok? (ie. both square & "sharp" males will fit in a ["sharp"] female).
2) I can't decide if the small extra output of the high-voltage 123-2 head offsets my failed "emergency" objective. I guess a high-voltage 123-2 head should actually work (just) on a pair of AA lithiums, but not AA-alkalines yes?
If there was no real difference in output (less than 20% isn't noticable?), then sticking with low-voltage heads and having the ability to run the turbo head on a single cheap AA alkaline (maybe on low/med power) sounds pretty flexible to me.
Thanks for any advice.
Erm... If you work in manufacturing you should also know that there's quite a huge difference in cutting 'normal' or square threads, its not like you can 'accidentally' mess that up on at least 3 different parts (tail/body/head). I'm really hoping this isn't a sign of things to come..... Different threads, now why would they go and do something like that?
I'm really interested in what you get for replacement, keep us posted!
1) does the square vs "sharp" thread issue only apply to the male thread side or both? If it were both, then our lego plans are foiled as you say pjandyho, but if it's male-side only, then things should still work ok? (ie. both square & "sharp" males will fit in a ["sharp"] female).
Now I know what you meant regarding the bubble and the hair. I had thought you were referring to a very tiny wire in the LED which is not easily seen.I don't know man. I have a few other lights, and they have thicker copper colored leads. The one in my Quark is HAIR thin and greyish colored. You can barely make it out in the pic.
I took a new pic and I cant tell you how hard it was to get it to focus on such a small hair. Not bad for an iPhone though...
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EDIT/UPDATE!
Just got done playing email tag with 4Sevens HQ and they asked me to send this one in with an RMA. A new one is on its way to my house RN.
GREAT Customer service if I do say so. 🙂
I guess a few out of spec pieces got on the boat. lol Totally not worried. That kind of thing can happen.
I work manufacturing and know all to well what happens when specs get miffed once in a blue moon.
I should also say that I ordered from firearmspro.com
As far as I am concerned, my older neutral white Q3 5B Quark 123^2 has square threading and the newer warm white 123^2 turbo has the sharp threading. I can't get the turbo warm white head to screw down onto the 123^2 tactical body and that was what got me to check the threads.
There could only be two way this could happen. Either the factory made a mistake on the threading or 4sevens made a change in the specification of the threading. If it is the latter being the case then I think 4sevens should openly acknowledge this issue so that existing Quark users who wishes to lego the parts would be well aware of the problems that they would face.
Definitely a noob question (this is my first real flashlight): 'Are these the square or regular threads?
Those are the square threads. Look at the picture at the top of this page to see the non-squared threads.
Agreed.Perhaps we should let 4Sevens have their say before we run amok with speculation.