The FURY is a bit smooth and want to hear about or see pics of what others use or put on the body to make it more grippy.
I’ve recently got a Fury (500L) that I’m really starting to like.
I’ve searched and can’t find pictures, write ups, or anything where somebody has opened up the head and detailed it’s innards or performed an LED swap.
Am I missing something, or is everybody leaving the head stock? Come on, there are tint snobs all over, me included. I’ve got a 4000K XM-L2 looking for a home.
If the head will not come off, the Fury (2-cell or 3-cell) can be bored with the head intact. As long as the boring bar & reamer are stopped 1mm short of the board it turns out nicely:... I dismantled mine to bore it for a 18650 battery.
If the head will not come off, the Fury (2-cell or 3-cell) can be bored with the head intact. As long as the boring bar & reamer are stopped 1mm short of the board it turns out nicely:
If the boring bar or the reamer are run in too far the board is destroyed. Not to worry, just fill the tube with lead shot & use it for a paper weight :fail:
I recently modded my P2X with an aftermarket body and am concerned about water resistance. Has anyone experienced water intrusion after modding, whether it be boring the body or swapping to an aftermarket body? I lubed the o ring with nyogel, but still wonder if this is adequate as my light comes into occasional contact with all kinds of substances and gets washed after. The light was rediculous to separate head from body, took me and a buddy and three strap wrenches. The loctite that was in there looked different from others I've seen...it appeared a little softer and was reddish. Possibly a different type than commonly used.
Also does anyone know if water was to seep into the battery tube, is it possible to make its way into the emitter ares? That would be just about impossible to dry out...
Regards in advance...from my phone...
What! An LED in the hands of DRoc? Now were talking. Anyway, you should be just fine if you've got the O-ring back on the head and tail, in good condition, lubed nicely so it can move around on the way back in, and all of the bits and pieces of the old thread locker removed. If water does get inside you might be in trouble. Obviously best to avoid. I don't think the internals are potted or have any conformal coating at least from what I could see when I had mine apart.
That's the challenge of boring with the head intact & that's also the reason I had special tooling made up. Both the boring bar & the finishing reamer are built with clearance that allows the spring to remain untouched as the tube is bored & reamed.Doesn't the positive spring (if present) present a problem in getting the tooling deep enough?