The SureFire P2X-B "Fury" 500lu flashlight thread

cland72

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Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...

I bought mine shortly after they first came out, and mine does not have a spring at the positive end of the battery.
 

Toohotruk

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Mine is from the first run too and does not have a spring. That's the only thing I don't like about it...it hasn't been a problem, but I would rather have a spring too.

I can't speak for the newer Furys.
 

precisionworks

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Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...

Unless you're running the light on a long gun the lack of spring shouldn't matter. When the bolt of a semiautomatic or full automatic rifle slams home it may cause a non-spring light to flicker (or change modes if it's a 2-stage model). Same thing with some shotguns.
 

mikedsokc

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Re: Glass not all its cracked up to be in the Fury...

I saw in the 2014 Surefire catalogue, the Fury was listed as a 600 lumen light. When can we expect to see these?
 

mckeand13

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Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

I’ve recently got a Fury (500L) that I’m really starting to like.

I’ve searched and can’t find pictures, write ups, or anything where somebody has opened up the head and detailed it’s innards or performed an LED swap.

Am I missing something, or is everybody leaving the head stock? Come on, there are tint snobs all over, me included. I’ve got a 4000K XM-L2 looking for a home.
 

mckeand13

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Re: Surefire Fury

The FURY is a bit smooth and want to hear about or see pics of what others use or put on the body to make it more grippy.

Put an RPM tailcap on it and you're all set. It feels perfect in hand after one change.

www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?373742

27922424-9e80-47b9-a7e4-0cfa3c02fc5a_zps369406b2.jpg
 

880arm

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

I’ve recently got a Fury (500L) that I’m really starting to like.

I’ve searched and can’t find pictures, write ups, or anything where somebody has opened up the head and detailed it’s innards or performed an LED swap.

Am I missing something, or is everybody leaving the head stock? Come on, there are tint snobs all over, me included. I’ve got a 4000K XM-L2 looking for a home.

AZPops had his modded to use an XP-G2 for a tighter beam (link). I can't remember seeing any that were modded with a different XM-L but I'm sure it could be done.
 

mckeand13

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

AZPops had his modded to use an XP-G2 for a tighter beam (link). I can't remember seeing any that were modded with a different XM-L but I'm sure it could be done.

Definitely a tighter hot spot with the XP-G2. Beam shots looked nice.

Still no pics of it taken apart though.....
 

precisionworks

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

... I dismantled mine to bore it for a 18650 battery.
If the head will not come off, the Fury (2-cell or 3-cell) can be bored with the head intact. As long as the boring bar & reamer are stopped 1mm short of the board it turns out nicely:

Image-9853934-202834489-2-Web_0_26f1d2ff3e76b0418700bb85a3709b4c_1


If the boring bar or the reamer are run in too far the board is destroyed. Not to worry, just fill the tube with lead shot & use it for a paper weight :fail:
 
Last edited:

DRoc

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

I recently modded my P2X with an aftermarket body and am concerned about water resistance. Has anyone experienced water intrusion after modding, whether it be boring the body or swapping to an aftermarket body? I lubed the o ring with nyogel, but still wonder if this is adequate as my light comes into occasional contact with all kinds of substances and gets washed after. The light was rediculous to separate head from body, took me and a buddy and three strap wrenches. The loctite that was in there looked different from others I've seen...it appeared a little softer and was reddish. Possibly a different type than commonly used.
Also does anyone know if water was to seep into the battery tube, is it possible to make its way into the emitter ares? That would be just about impossible to dry out...
Regards in advance...from my phone...
 

mckeand13

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

If the head will not come off, the Fury (2-cell or 3-cell) can be bored with the head intact. As long as the boring bar & reamer are stopped 1mm short of the board it turns out nicely:

Image-9853934-202834489-2-Web_0_26f1d2ff3e76b0418700bb85a3709b4c_1


If the boring bar or the reamer are run in too far the board is destroyed. Not to worry, just fill the tube with lead shot & use it for a paper weight :fail:

Barry,

Doesn't the positive spring (if present) present a problem in getting the tooling deep enough?
 

mckeand13

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

I recently modded my P2X with an aftermarket body and am concerned about water resistance. Has anyone experienced water intrusion after modding, whether it be boring the body or swapping to an aftermarket body? I lubed the o ring with nyogel, but still wonder if this is adequate as my light comes into occasional contact with all kinds of substances and gets washed after. The light was rediculous to separate head from body, took me and a buddy and three strap wrenches. The loctite that was in there looked different from others I've seen...it appeared a little softer and was reddish. Possibly a different type than commonly used.
Also does anyone know if water was to seep into the battery tube, is it possible to make its way into the emitter ares? That would be just about impossible to dry out...
Regards in advance...from my phone...


What! An LED in the hands of DRoc? Now were talking.

Anyway, you should be just fine if you've got the O-ring back on the head and tail, in good condition, lubed nicely so it can move around on the way back in, and all of the bits and pieces of the old thread locker removed.

If water does get inside you might be in trouble. Obviously best to avoid. I don't think the internals are potted or have any conformal coating at least from what I could see when I had mine apart.
 

DRoc

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

Yea...I have a few LEDs...lol. not as many as incans, but I have a few for sure. Those 500 lumens are useful for work a lot. I cannot deny that. Hahaha!
What! An LED in the hands of DRoc? Now were talking. Anyway, you should be just fine if you've got the O-ring back on the head and tail, in good condition, lubed nicely so it can move around on the way back in, and all of the bits and pieces of the old thread locker removed. If water does get inside you might be in trouble. Obviously best to avoid. I don't think the internals are potted or have any conformal coating at least from what I could see when I had mine apart.
 

precisionworks

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

Don't mean to necropost but I just saw this question.

Doesn't the positive spring (if present) present a problem in getting the tooling deep enough?
That's the challenge of boring with the head intact & that's also the reason I had special tooling made up. Both the boring bar & the finishing reamer are built with clearance that allows the spring to remain untouched as the tube is bored & reamed.

It is certainly a challenge to enlarge the bore without contacting the head spring or the circuit board. It takes more time to machine with the head on but I've done quite a few without any issues.
 

kyhunter1

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

Thinking about picking up another 2 mode fury. Where can I get one that has the XML2 and 600 lumens? If memory serves correct, the newer Fury's are suppose to be rated at 600 now and updated with the new emmitter.
 

ForrestChump

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

Buy the latest stock from an authorized dealer. Handheld Furys have been running 600 lumens for awhile now. This is not noted in the specs. Under promise, over deliver has always been Surefires MO.
 

kyhunter1

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Re: Opening the Fury head or swapping the LED

It would be nice to know which dealer has them. If anybody knows for sure, shoot me a pm.
 

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