Re: The Tint Snob Thread .
fwiw, I don't need High CRI to see green plants well
I do need High CRI to see the palm of my hand, the cooking of my food at camp, the skin tone of my lover, and other things that contain red, with realistic color.
in fact, I will admit that after being a 4-4500k snob for a while, I have a new appreciation for cool white. It is actually Better at showing green plants than High CRI. Cool white is also better for working on a car during the day, and it is brighter than my High CRI option.
My conclusion is to have Both.
I do find white wall tests very informing when comparing beams side by side, and I agree that the people that say things like "I don't notice in actual use" are just missing the point, changing the subject, and also at times, ridiculing someone who cares.
Recently I posted a number of tests of a V11R, which has very wide brightness fluctuations on a Light Meter. People without a light meter can NOT see changes of 60 lumens easily. Does that mean it does not matter to me, no. Does it mean it may not matter to them, sure. Do I care if my battery drains faster because my light turned itself up by 60 lumens, yes.
There is no One PURE White. That is a misconception. In fact, there is White at 6000k, and White at 4000k, and at every other CCT, depending on the white balance of ones brain.
If I have been outdoors in the sun, 6000k seems white, but if I have been indoors in the evening under incandescent, 4000k looks white. Here is an illustration of that concept:
When the white balance is set to the 6000k cool white led on the right, it looks white. Notice the pink 4000k N219b in the. middle, in the next photo it will be white
now white balance is set to 4000k, so the pink Nichia looks white
(I removed the 6000k so my auto white balance iPhone would choose the 4000k for white balance.) Notice the very same light that looks pink during 6000k white balance, looks white during 4000k white balance. People who prefer 4000k, are most definitely NOT using it to work on a car in the sunlight. And people who prefer 6000k, are certainly not using it as a night light, for which 3000k is far superior, even better than 4000k.
Ive spent a lot of time demonstrating things that some people claim do not matter to them, PWM, circuit noise, brightness flux, green tint, pink tint, blue tint, warm, neutral, cool, etc. It is often the people who want to change the conversation, that will bring up comments like, "I don't notice in actual use".
I also "don't notice in actual use" the green tint in a Cool White light used to work on a car in the sun. There is plenty of ambient CRI to offset the pathetic CRI of a Cool White LED. But after dark, I again become a High CRI Neutral White Tint snob, I put away the Cool White, and put a High CRI 4-4500k light in my pocket.
then again, If Im trying to spot a bear at 100 yards, Cool White rules, because of the brightness. But if Im inspecting Bear Scat at close range, and want to know if its been eating any berries with red seeds, then High CRI, which will usually Not be in the Cool White Color Temperature range, will be my preference.
Do whatever makes you happy. Buy lots of different lights, use the ones that work best for you at the time. There is no one single color temperature, tint, and CRI that works equally well as a nightlight, scat reader, spotlight, or mechanics light. Some situations call for high brightness, and CRI is secondary, some situations call for low brightness, and CRI becomes more important. Some applications call for Cool, Warm, or Neutral White. Each has their place.
A white wall will help demonstrate the differences.
Here is a photo comparing two 3000k LEDs (far left top and bottom), one has a Magenta tint, one has a Yellow tint. I prefer the magenta, but, if Im only using the Yellow one at the time, my brain will adjust itself to make that OK.
At my current stage of learning I like a choice of 3 different color temperatures, depending on time of use.
Pure White Tint is NOT a specific CCT, it is simply any LED that lands on the BBL.. I wish they called it the White Body Line, so people would understand that Whiteness is an absence of green or magenta tint. It is any CCT that lands on the ideal radiator line, shown as a black line in this pic:
some LEDs land above the "Pure White (black line) Radiator line". Typically they are Cool White Cree LEDs, optimized for brightness. Our eyes are especially sensitive to green, so an LED with a lot of green will seem brighter. Its CRI may not be ideal, but it will spot bear at 50 yards, better than a 4000k Nichia.
Courses for horses.
