The Tint Snob Thread

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Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Speaking of XP-G2, whatever Don is using in the Haiku pleasantly surprised me. I have to find out what bin it is.


I was never a big fan from the start with xp-g2 being honest, throwy little LED though(maybe because i am more biased towards flood than throw). Over time things have swapped around and now appreciate all this time on ,how good they are. De-domed it can not be beaten all this time on, granted not the highest lumen/output but still a force to be reckoned with. The 4000k in malkoffs is real nice, 5000k i have in a quad, to 6000k in a sportac triple to name some..............all great in their own way.
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

I find the 6000k Low CRI of the XPG2 tolerable outdoors during the day, when there is lots of ambient sunlight to add the missing reds. Most of all when working on a greasy old car motor, I care less about the color, just need the brightness.

But before anyone gets the wrong impression, the Low CRI Cool White still sucks at showing reds, and is not my first pick at night for close range. I only tolerate cool white when I need the brightness and don't care about the green tint.

A simple demonstration of how bad the CRI of a 6000k LED really is, can be seen by shining the 6000k light at the palm of your hand. Zombie, Dead, Pale, pathetic, come to mind.

When it comes to showing realistic skin tones, the N219b High Cri options are FAR superior. Try it yourself. Shine a 6000k Low CRI at the palm of your hand, then do the same with a High CRI Nichia..
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Shine a ... at the palm of your hand...
This is the first thing I do with any light, then I go looking for leaves, followed by items with red or orange, and finally, look for the beam pattern and throw/flood transitions.

Yep, palm of hand test for me too.
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Does anyone know of a decent zebralight-ish side-clicky 1x14500/AA or 1x18650, between 3500 and 4500K, that would have <BBL tint? I guess I am looking for equivalent of 4R, 4U. 5R. 5A1, 5A4, 5D1, 5D4 or 6A.

Looking for a tint roughly like my Prometheus Beta QRv2 Nichia 219B 4500K on the left. And preferably high CRI. Spending way too much time searching here. Maybe a Convoy S2/+ or Jaxman E2L (dont see 4000K/4500K Nichia 219B version of E2L currently) is closest I've found, but I want smaller and a side clicky.
mlb88kJ.jpg
 
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Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Does anyone know of a decent zebralight-ish side-clicky 1x14500/AA or 1x18650, between 3500 and 4500K, that would have <BBL tint?
...
a tint roughly like my Prometheus Beta QRv2 Nichia 219B 4500K on the left. And preferably high CRI.
...
and a side clicky.

My Beta QRv2 started my love affair with Nichia 219b LEDs, it ruined me for Cool White and low CRI. So Ive ended up having people modify lights for me, to LEDs Im interested in.

I had a Mecarmy PT-18 light modified to 4000k n219b 90+CRI LEDs, and it has a beautiful pink cast. I no longer have my Beta, so I can't show you a direct comparison.
this is where we got the 219b LEDs, its a very good batch imo

You could choose a 14500 version, the PT-14, if you prefer. It does have a sideswitch..

As far as I know Zebras are not easy to modify, and I have never heard of one with a Nichia.. If you need help with modding, out member gunga offers that service...

here is a thread about the PT series, with pics
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

As far as I know Zebras are not easy to modify, and I have never heard of one with a Nichia.. If you need help with modding, out member gunga offers that service...
Ah yes, they ARE difficult to mod. Fortunately, I had an older model SC600 with the removable bezel, however, my understanding is that it was still a bear to mod, but here it is, still my most used and loved light to date (skip to post #35 to see the finished mod):
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...dded-with-Triple-Nichia-219-and-Carlco-Optics
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Does anyone know of a decent zebralight-ish side-clicky 1x14500/AA or 1x18650, between 3500 and 4500K, that would have <BBL tint? I guess I am looking for equivalent of 4R, 4U. 5R. 5A1, 5A4, 5D1, 5D4 or 6A.

Looking for a tint roughly like my Prometheus Beta QRv2 Nichia 219B 4500K on the left. And preferably high CRI. Spending way too much time searching here. Maybe a Convoy S2/+ or Jaxman E2L (dont see 4000K/4500K Nichia 219B version of E2L currently) is closest I've found, but I want smaller and a side clicky.
mlb88kJ.jpg


You will struggle getting anything rosy from ZL as Mr ZL is not a nichia fan ................unfortunately. Now my sc63w which is an xhp35 and 4500k, with 80+cri has a nice "tint" to it. Hard to describe, hint of warmth and a creamy to it. The xp-l2 easywhite does lean towards yellow to my eyes, yet the 4500k not as much as the 4000k i have. The 4500k is quite pleasing in the sc53w . Thats just my experience, and ZL is well known for the tint lottery.
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Does anyone know of a decent zebralight-ish side-clicky 1x14500/AA or 1x18650, between 3500 and 4500K, that would have <BBL tint? I guess I am looking for equivalent of 4R, 4U. 5R. 5A1, 5A4, 5D1, 5D4 or 6A.

Looking for a tint roughly like my Prometheus Beta QRv2 Nichia 219B 4500K on the left. And preferably high CRI. Spending way too much time searching here. Maybe a Convoy S2/+ or Jaxman E2L (dont see 4000K/4500K Nichia 219B version of E2L currently) is closest I've found, but I want smaller and a side clicky.

Not quite - The Nitecore Tip CRI is reportedly 3500K and side-clicky, but in a different form factor. It's got a built-in battery almost equivalent to a 14500 cell.
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

All 4500k, left sc63w xhp35 4500k, middle sc53w xp-l2 easywhite 4500k and haiku 219b 4500k

Does not show on the sc63w, but there is actually a hint of rosy in the beam, presumably down to the lens coating! Either way, in use its become one of my fav's.............very nice. The 4500k haiku in use comes across as the most pure out of my 219b's(have many).

pRkFsx2l.jpg
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

The Nitecore Tip CRI is reportedly 3500K and side-clicky
I don't love those photon-type key lights, but I might try it on keychain. I prefer swappable batteries, though. I should get my 360lm 10440 Ultratac K18 SS modded.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?366586-Zebralight-SC600-Modded-with-Triple-Nichia-219-and-Carlco-Optics
Awesome ;) My precious indeed, hehe.

My Beta QRv2 started my love affair with Nichia 219b LEDs, it ruined me for Cool White and low CRI.
A modded Mecarmy looks cool for a coat pocket outdoor light, but for this purpose I'm looking for length <95mm, head diameter <26mm, to replace my Manker E11 NW, which is 83mm x 20mm. An sc53w/c, sc63w, or sc64w/c would be perfect form factor. Tints don't look bad in your shots. Lottery, though. Also no Cree's have good R9 value, from what I've seen.

CW is the one thing I too can't tolerate anymore, except in a long thrower just-for-the-sake-of-throw.

As for tints, my brain adapts to a slightly green NW Cree unless I'm looking for green. But sometimes I look for green. And they don't render colors quite as well as something with a better R9 value. I am going to buy a 7A binned 3500K XM-L2 or XP-L Convoy S2. 7A is entirely < BBL. But a 120mm long rear-click is not my ideal.

And while the Nichia 219B is great compared to most flashlight LED's, it isn't the be-all/end-all. After learning about TM-30 and shortcomings of CRI (thanks Maukka for posting the TM-30 video), I don't put a ton of stock in CRI alone.

Nichia's high CRI lights have R9 values in 70's, great compared to other flashlight led's. But as people have mentioned, there is better tech- those yuji's, or I think better still:

Xicato Artist Series, R9 value of 96 ;)

About better color fidelity than a halogen. Supposedly these are some of the best color rendering LEDs, with best TM-30 metrics, on the market.
3Xjs6c9.jpg


Those Xicato lamps are of course for fixed usages, with Zhaga-compatible holders. If Watts = Amps x Volts, they require 30-40 Volts.

But the point is, the technology is out there. There might be some emitter like this that could actually be put into a flashlight.
 
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Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

And while the Nichia 219B is great compared to most flashlight LED's, it isn't the be-all/end-all. After learning about TM-30 and shortcomings of CRI (thanks Maukka for posting the TM-30 video), I don't put a ton of stock in CRI alone.

Nichia's high CRI lights have R9 values in 70's, great compared to other flashlight led's. But as people have mentioned, there is better tech- those yuji's, or I think better still

It's all about what bin you can get man. Nichia's can have far higher R9's then 70. The 219B SW40 R9080's Clemence recently ran out of were 98CRI with an R9 of 97, and a TM-30 of 92.
 
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Regarding LEDs with 90+ R9, some of the modders, such as gunga, may have stock of the N219b 4000k 9080 LEDs from Clemence.. pic is a link:



as far as the issue with yellow/green tint above the BBL, that is common for Zebras, a 1/8 minus green filter can help with the tint.. it also very slightly raises R9.. see this post by maukka
 
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Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

It's all about what bin you can get man. Nichia's can have far higher R9's then 70. The 219B SW40 R9080's Clemence recently ran out of were 98CRI with an R9 of 97, and a TM-30 of 92.

Oh that's cool. I didn't see anything about TM-30 metrics in the 2017 Nichia catalogue.

I want a Nichia 9080 bin light now!

Also, as Michael Royer of PNNL points out in this video, a TM-30 Rf of say 90 but an Rg of greater than 100 with saturation towards the reds might be more visually pleasing to those of us who like the slightly rosy tints.

Example, subjects preferred this lighting source for this scene, above a bunch of others:

OPkm2pZ.jpg


So, fidelity measures like CRI/, CRI-15, Rf arent everything. As I'm sure most posters in this thread know more than I.

But as fidelity gets closer to 100, range of possible saturation departure gets smaller:

R1uXV6I.jpg
 
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Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

I want a Nichia 9080 bin light now!

Also, as Michael Royer of PNNL points out in this video, a TM-30 Rf of say 90 but an Rg of greater than 100 with saturation towards the reds might be more visually pleasing to those of us who like the slightly rosy tints.

Example, subjects preferred this lighting source for this scene, above a bunch of others:

OPkm2pZ.jpg


So, fidelity measures like CRI/, CRI-15, Rf arent everything. As I'm sure most posters in this thread know more than I.

But as fidelity gets closer to 100, range of possible saturation departure gets smaller:

R1uXV6I.jpg

here are the N219b 4000k 9080 , and N219b 4500k 9080
38440979292_92c4e2631c_c.jpg


here a those leds in Maratacs, along with a stock Nichia Worm
38491945181_f9e468b0ce_b.jpg


and those 9080 LEDs w a 3000k 219c 9050
37604818145_f160b0a77d_b.jpg


and the benefit of minus green filters:
38459837662_ac5979b673_b.jpg
 
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Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

I've got a dilemma with my triple s2+ with 4500k 219b 9080 Nichia ,
i don't know if I should mod this with something different now such as XPL hi CW , XHP 50cw, even if possible the Nichia 6500k in hcri!.
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

What's the motivation for even considering replacing the R9080's? Do you have one of Mountain's high-powered mods that might severely overdrive 219B's at max mode? Can't the drivers in those modded lights have their max-mode programmed?

Unless it's a concern like that, it seems to me they should stay there unless you found an even better use for those emitters.
 
Re: The Tint Snob Thread .

Quick test shot of Yuji's 135L COB hooked up to my benchtop power supply.

They're rated for about ~800 lumens at 600mA (~16V). I tested it all the way up to the max specified current of 900mA, then dialed back down to around 100mA so it wouldn't blind me while focusing the camera.

It looks excellent - like a far more powerful version of their 5mm LED's, just like I hoped. As shown it's a pure mule. I've got a couple 30mm Carclo TIR optics that work with it, too. One makes floody beam similar to the 5mm LED's, and the other is tighter, similar to my Emisar D4.

Edit - trying to fix picture link:
c62vej7idhd01.jpg
 
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