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The Titanium "Haiku"

Duster1671

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 16, 2017
Messages
246
Thanks for your observations and comments! The primary ground path is through the lip of the battery tube into the rear shoulder on the E-Can. The tight seat of MCPCB against the shoulder of the head is primarily intended as a thermal path from MCPCB to head.
I think you're referring to electrical ground here. I was commenting on the mechanical grounding of the LE to the head, which I now realize is confusing and maybe esoteric terminology.

This has to do with how force flows through the head components when the LE is tightened down. With a tight LE, the force in the threads needs to be balanced out with an equal-and-opposite force elsewhere on the LE. A head that uses a "stack-up" of parts transfers that force through the centering ring, reflector, window, and o-ring before making its way back to the "mechanical ground" of the head. In the Haiku, the force flows directly back into the head through the MCPCB.

The "stack-up" method works okay, but I'm more drawn to the way the Haiku does it. It has the advantage you noted of a good thermal path to the head, but also prevents excessive force at the emitter/reflector interface. I've made the rookie mistake of crushing the corners of an LED by tightening a pill down without having everything lined up correctly. That seems much less likely, if not entirely impossible, in the Haiku.
 

desert.snake

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
2,109
Location
Eastern Europe
Hello, I decided to look for colored rings for Haiku. There was a question about the actual size and hardness.

1669121007848.png


If I understand correctly, then the sizes of the rings must comply with the standard AS568

And here the question arises, in different sources the cross sections are indicated in fractions, in others in the decimal system, and these numbers do not match. Why is everything so confusing? :faint:

1669121649682.png


In tolerance tables, everywhere they write in decimal system and it coincides with what is called the actual size
1669121754546.png


And the second question, I noticed that the hardness of rubber is measured in certain Shore units from 25 to 90.
What hardness should I choose for a flashlight? I remember in the AquaRam thread, it mentioned harder silicone rings that improve water resistance, but it didn't mention how hard they were.

1669121970653.png
 

desert.snake

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
2,109
Location
Eastern Europe
After 2 years, I was finally able to adjust levels on Haiku (hive) so that I don't want to change them anymore:clap:

1 - 5 - 16 - 21
1 - 10 - 21
11 - 21

The brightness spikes look equally spaced, but that's just to my eyes and this shaved dome LED. The driver worked perfectly in winter with temperatures of -30 Celsius at all levels
 

desert.snake

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
2,109
Location
Eastern Europe
I decided to change the LED to SFT40, it turned out well except for one thing. I decided to wipe off the flux marks with isopropyl alcohol, as I always do with electronics, and the phosphor of the diode simply dissolved, now I have a great flashlight with a very blue color, LOL

This Luminus SFT40 gives an excellent beam shape in a standard reflector, I didn't have time to photograph it, but I took a photo in the mule's head. Now I don't know what to do with the blue flashlight, probably change the LED again
 

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F89

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 15, 2014
Messages
1,547
Oh no! Now you have a UV Haiku 😀
That board's looking messy. Might be worth modifying another to fit and start again?
I always use isopropyl alcohol to clean up excess flux (even on the LED if necessary), first time I've seen that happen.
 

desert.snake

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
2,109
Location
Eastern Europe
Oh no! Now you have a UV Haiku 😀
That board's looking messy. Might be worth modifying another to fit and start again?
I always use isopropyl alcohol to clean up excess flux (even on the LED if necessary), first time I've seen that happen.
Yeah, me too, I found out that it is Luminus SFT40 that does not have a protective coating on top of the phosphor. Usually all diodes have either sapphire layer on top like dedomed 519A, or a thin silicone layer like XPL HI or Osram

It's more of a Royal Blue. I remember Don making Cyan lights for scuba diving, so it's part of the tradition. I'll have to try it underwater. If I don't like it, I'll send this diode to illuminate tomato seedlings. I agree about the board, but no one sees this in the reflector head ;)
 
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