The Ultimate EagleTac M2*** TRIPLE REVIEW!

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Can you guys check something out? The clickie replacement kit I have received says "replacement kit II" on the little paper and does not include extra tray, do you people with extra tray say something other the "kit II"?
 
I wonder why nobody has talked about the standby current drain yet? It is considerable higher than for the TK40 and the M2 does not have any way to stop it, except to dismantle the light or mount the switch.
 
Kiessling said:
It has a standby current drain? :sick2: :green:

That sucks big time, and I mean BIG time.

bernie
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I had decided not to mount the switch, but I will reconsider that now. I do not like it to run my batteries down in 4 months.
But at least I has verified that it does not have any pwm and the strobe frequency is just above 8 Hz.
 
Kiessling said:
It has a standby current drain? :sick2: :green:

That sucks big time, and I mean BIG time.

bernie
Click to expand...

I think that wattnot has mentioned that using the clicky switch will break the complete circuit in the battery tray and prevent the standby drain.

Given the design of the switching ring where there's no physical connection, i'm not surprised that there is a standby drain.

Kit II without the extra tray here as well.

The strobe really hurts. The few times i accidentally hit strobe while shining it at my wall at close range really gave me a headache and made me decide to do the plastic shim mod to lock out strobe.
 
Oh boy. Another lesson learned. Almost every time I succumb to the seduction of the lights of those new manufacturers I end up being thoroughly disappointed.

Oh well, that settles the issue at least. I'll play with it a bit and then bye bye to the light and back to quality stuff.

bernie
 
Kiessling said:
Oh boy. Another lesson learned. Almost every time I succumb to the seduction of the lights of those new manufacturers I end up being thoroughly disappointed.

Oh well, that settles the issue at least. I'll play with it a bit and then bye bye to the light and back to quality stuff.

bernie
Click to expand...

Don't give up yet on the mass-produced quad-lights. I think it won't be long before one that's just about perfect comes out.

selfbuilt's review of the Jetbeam M1-X was very favorable, but I am presuming that you were attracted to the shorter length of the Eagletacs.
 
It's the UI and power source that makes all of them a no-go for me ... meaning multi-click programmable stuff and Li-Ion cells. This was the first one that showed promise, but no, they mess it up with poor design and execution. Too bad.

I'll get over it I guess 😀
 
Kiessling said:
It's the UI and power source that makes all of them a no-go for me ... meaning multi-click programmable stuff and Li-Ion cells. This was the first one that showed promise, but no, they mess it up with poor design and execution. Too bad.

I'll get over it I guess 😀
Click to expand...

We are all different, I like 18650 as power source and think it is one of the best ways to power a light.
If Neoseikan get all his problems fixed, try a Legion II, it is a very good light (even with the problems) and it is only a tailcap longer than the M2.
 
Kiessling said:
It's the UI and power source that makes all of them a no-go for me ... meaning multi-click programmable stuff and Li-Ion cells. This was the first one that showed promise, but no, they mess it up with poor design and execution. Too bad.

I'll get over it I guess 😀
Click to expand...

But you can use 3 CR123s (ie non-li-ion cells) in the Jetbeam M1-X

In addition the UI is a very simple one. When the head is tightened its on high, when its loosened slightly its on low.

Its true that you can set the lower setting to be whatever level you like, but you don't have to.

Anyway I'm dragging this thread off-topic so back to the Eagletacs.
 
Okay, time to cool off here folks.

I was going to get on here and scold some folks for spreading rumors about parasitic drain but I just did another test and low and behold, there is some. I don't understand why it would be needed on a light that has no memory function and a rotary switch. My guess is that this type of design calls for less components but who knows.

Anyway, I still see no dealbreakers for this light. The leakage I discovered was quickly corrected and the while the UI isn't perfect, it's not that bad either. Aside from the Surefire A2 or L1, etc., no UI is perfect. Even the Legion II has some delay for either coming on or going off or both (where you have to hold the switch?).

So onto the parasite: I put my meter on the most sensitve scale (1ma) and found a .72ma (that is seven tenths of one thousandth of an amp) drain while the light was off. Even though it seemed silly, I then tested it with the optional clicky in the off position and it became zero.

Now you folks can do some math on this for your own piece of mind. I just thought of something regarding the small drain: Everyone knows it's not good to store lithium ion rechargeables FULL. Well this tiny drain could possibly help extend the life of your batteries! Also, if you choose to install the tailcap clicky switch and keep it off when not in use, there is no drain at all. So the only issue I see where the drain might matter is for CR123 users who are NOT using the clicky tailcap.


Enjoy!
 
Wattnot said:
So onto the parasite: I put my meter on the most sensitve scale (1ma) and found a .72ma (that is seven tenths of one thousandth of an amp) drain while the light was off. Even though it seemed silly, I then tested it with the optional clicky in the off position and it became zero.

Now you folks can do some math on this for your own piece of mind. I just thought of something regarding the small drain: Everyone knows it's not good to store lithium ion rechargeables FULL. Well this tiny drain could possibly help extend the life of your batteries! Also, if you choose to install the tailcap clicky switch and keep it off when not in use, there is no drain at all. So the only issue I see where the drain might matter is for CR123 users who are NOT using the clicky tailcap.
Click to expand...

You measurement match with mine.

The drain is no problem if you use the light daily, but if you plan on storing it for some time, you better remember to take out the batteries (or install the clicky and turn it off), or the batteries will get drained and that is not healthy for LiIon. This "tiny" drain is emptying the batteries in only a few months.


Oh, I forgot, I am not in the rumor business, I have a workshop with equipment to test a lot of electric stuff.
 
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Mike Painter said:
So send it to me, why let it be forgotten?

People who purchase things like this from small vendors should expect that they are in essence Beta testers.

Perhaps pioneers is a better term. Pioneers are easy to spot, they are the ones with arrows in their back.
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what a load of cods. this was rushed, end of story. i assume they tightened the screws during the process of manufacture, so why not tighten fully? rushed. when u pay full asking price for anything, it should be 100% spot on. thats just my opinion.
 
Metatron said:
what a load of cods. this was rushed, end of story. i assume they tightened the screws during the process of manufacture, so why not tighten fully? rushed. when u pay full asking price for anything, it should be 100% spot on. thats just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Of course it was rushed.People here were clamoring for it and pre-announcing a product like that has killed more than one business.
Screws to tight to remove or loose screws are one of the hall marks of early production runs when QC is not solidly in place, the workers are not experienced and working on a production line.
When the PC moved past the hobby stage after the IBM hit the market this happened all the time with new vendors. (admittedly loose screws were rarely a problem but getting a machine in where you could not get the case off because 4 of the 6 screws *could not* be loosened was common.)

It's one of the dangers of being an early adapter in any industry.
 
Re durability of the light:

A few nights ago I was walking along the sidewalk, shining my M2XC4 at the top floor of a 30 story building. I didn't notice a slightly raised edge and fell flat on my face. As I went down I instinctively put my hands out which saved me from injury, but the Eagletac in my right hand hit the concrete with a loud SMACK! It survived with very small dings on the head and tail and worked perfectly. That was a really hard hit and the light came through beautifully.

Brightnorm
 
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I am thinking of purchasing this light but waterproofness (IPX8?) is a critical factor. It cannot be simply "splash proof" as some lights are due to the nature in which I'll use the light.

Anyone here can shed some light? From EagleTac's webbie they mentioned nothing about waterproofing.
 
I feel like I'm the luckiest guy in the world!

My M2X came with everything included that was supposed to be included.

All the screws were tight!!

Mine suffers from none of water leakage problems others bemoan.

I did not install the clicky since the "ring" works perfectly for me. I think that anyone can learn to use it if they just try. I can go from off to any stage of brightness or strobe and back again with little chance of error. It's kind of like learning to play a trombone.....no indents, no clicks or flashing lights to "tell" you what position you're in. You just know by the feel of it.

I don't understand why anyone would pay $$$ for a totally new light, put fully charged batteries in it and put it away for months on end without ever using it.😕

I love this light. It's everything I expected and more. It's a beauty.

It really sucks the batteries down fast on turbo. 😀 I still have no idea of the amp draw of this light. Have I missed it somewhere?
 
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