The Ultimate EagleTac M2*** TRIPLE REVIEW!

[Wattnot]

The water leakage problem, which was a tiny amount in the battery tube only, NOT the head, was quickly addressed and a conversation stopping solution was posted. Eagletac will send you a fix in the mail. By now I'm sure the fix is being done at the factory on the newly manufactured units.

That being said, the IPX8 standard, from what I've read on this board, is a loosely applied term with multiple definitions. Most of the lights talked about on this board carry the IPX8 designation which (don't quote me on the exact numbers) means it was tested at a depth of 1 meter for 30 minutes? Or is that 30 meters at 1 minute? Either way IPX8 does NOT make it a dive light. Not even close. It means if you drop it in the pool or show off to your friends by putting in the fish tank for a few minutes, you'll be fine.

I am thinking of purchasing this light but waterproofness (IPX8?) is a critical factor. It cannot be simply "splash proof" as some lights are due to the nature in which I'll use the light.

Anyone here can shed some light? From EagleTac's webbie they mentioned nothing about waterproofing.

 

[TAIGERSX]

I am thinking of purchasing this light but waterproofness (IPX8?) is a critical factor. It cannot be simply "splash proof" as some lights are due to the nature in which I'll use the light.

Anyone here can shed some light? From EagleTac's webbie they mentioned nothing about waterproofing.

It looks like you've been searching for a dive light since the water-proofness is a critical factor for you. So here it is: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=195451 . It can withstand the water at 100m under the water. What u are doing at that depth, I don't know but I hope this helps and :welcome:.

 

[Mike Painter]

That being said, the IPX8 standard, from what I've read on this board, is a loosely applied term with multiple definitions. Most of the lights talked about on this board carry the IPX8 designation which (don't quote me on the exact numbers) means it was tested at a depth of 1 meter for 30 minutes? Or is that 30 meters at 1 minute? Either way IPX8 does NOT make it a dive light. Not even close. It means if you drop it in the pool or show off to your friends by putting in the fish tank for a few minutes, you'll be fine.

Temporary immersion is the IPX7 test. This is a pre-set depth of 1m and a pre-set time of 30 minutes. During the test there should be no ingress of water to cause harmful effects.

The continuous immersion IPX8 test, is set against a pressure and a time agreed between manufacturer and user. Again, during the agreed period, there should be no ingress of water in quantities sufficient to cause harmful effects. The test has to be more severe than the IPX7 test.
For IPX8 the test states - ‘protected against long periods of immersion under pressure'. Hence the result of the test should be specific and clearly quantified i.e. IPX8 15 bar, illustrating that the product has been tested at a depth of 150 metres of water for a specified time.

So 1 meter for 31 minutes would work.
30 meters at any time *would* make it a dive light. The rotary switch would work but teh clicky would not after just a few feet.

 

[StandardBattery]

Wow people seem to be very vocal these days about problems with this light. So many problems in the past people said nothing about.

Yes, the parasitic drain with the selector switch is disappointing, but I guess I was prepared for this based on my knowledge of electronics. Still I did hope they had a clever solution, but I really didn't expect it at this price point. I consider this light a bargain (M2XC4).

As I've mentioned in other threads, I'm loosening the head a couple of turns when not in use. If I was using this light very frequently I might not be happy with that solution, but then if I was using it frequently I'd be recharging frequently and it would not be an issue. So really this is mostly an issue for the infrequent users, or when there are prolonges periods of non use. I like the light without the tailcap so I prefer to loosen the head than to install the tailcap switch.

The screws on my light were also not super tight, they were not falling out though. Phillips #0 and tighten them up, I do like a problem that can be quickly fixed. I'll be loosening them once more though for the o-rings. The missing o-rings might also partially explain why the screws are a bit loose.

It's only been a short while, but I'm very happy with this light still.

 

[StandardBattery]

Can you guys check something out? The clickie replacement kit I have received says "replacement kit II" on the little paper and does not include extra tray, do you people with extra tray say something other the "kit II"?

kit II without extra tray here.

Mine is "M25 Clicky Replacement Kit" and it contains the extra tray.

 

[chanjyj]

The water leakage problem, which was a tiny amount in the battery tube only, NOT the head, was quickly addressed and a conversation stopping solution was posted. Eagletac will send you a fix in the mail. By now I'm sure the fix is being done at the factory on the newly manufactured units.

That being said, the IPX8 standard, from what I've read on this board, is a loosely applied term with multiple definitions. Most of the lights talked about on this board carry the IPX8 designation which (don't quote me on the exact numbers) means it was tested at a depth of 1 meter for 30 minutes? Or is that 30 meters at 1 minute? Either way IPX8 does NOT make it a dive light. Not even close. It means if you drop it in the pool or show off to your friends by putting in the fish tank for a few minutes, you'll be fine.

I know. IPX8 is being loosely used nowadays just like the term "aircraft aluminum" (what the heck is that? anything can be aircraft aluminum".)

However, I'm not looking for a dive light. But I need something that can withstand being dropped into the water. Won't be more than 1 metre in depth, or more than 30mins at one time.
To make it simpler, it has to be as "waterproof" as the Fenix TK10 or Fenix T1.

 

[chanjyj]

It looks like you've been searching for a dive light since the water-proofness is a critical factor for you. So here it is: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=195451 . It can withstand the water at 100m under the water. What u are doing at that depth, I don't know but I hope this helps and :welcome:.

nada, not a dive light. See my above post. It must be "dunkable". Full immersion in water but in depths not exceeding 1m, and not for an extended period of time.

 

[chrisWELD]

removed as you didn't want a dive light - posted before reading the rest of the thread..

 

[houtex]

This light started as a WOW light for me at first. I took it with me to South Texas this weekend and it became a real tool. the holster was no use to me at all . I rigged a camera strap to it and away we went, the hogs never had a chance. The way we used it this weekend was PERFECT. Low for walking and high when we needed it. I did go into strobe a couple of times but went right back to high. Something this bright,this small, with these modes, I can't think of another light that would have worked like this.

 

[Zeruel]

My eagle has landed...

I would like to substantiate most users' comment on this monster.

:thumbsup:
- Premium quality
- SS bezel
- Hot spot's bright, mine's a M2X
- Tension is just right for selector ring
- Nice essential pouch
- Single hand operation is easy
- Generously lubricated

:thumbsdow
- Head is heavy
- Very easy to activate strobe, no indication or indentation
- If I'm not wrong, plastic lens is used (depending if it's a good or not to you)

 

[brightnorm]

With the strobe fix (semi-permanent or temporary as described elsewhere), along with the waterproof-improving washers just received, my Eagletacs are nearly perfect except that the selector ring is hard to turn with my injured thumbs, even when well lubed. But that is my problem, not a design flaw.

BTW, the lens is glass.

Brightnorm

 

[kwarwick]

My M2XC4 Neutral White arrived today. Two issues I've noticed right away:

1) All 3 LEDs flicker on lowest level, not noticeable in any other levels.

2) O-ring for optional clickie switch is slightly over-sized so won't stay in the grove. I'm going to try putting the o-ring in the freezer to get it to shrink down slightly so that it will fit.

I can also confirm the strobe mode is annoyingly easy to activate. I'll be considering completely disabling or adjusting the activation position.

 

[StandardBattery]

...
1) All 3 LEDs flicker on lowest level, not noticeable in any other levels.

2) O-ring for optional clickie switch is slightly over-sized so won't stay in the grove. I'm going to try putting the o-ring in the freezer to get it to shrink down slightly so that it will fit.
...

#1 does not sound good. You may have to return the light. Check your battery and contacts, but it really does not sound good.

#2 this issue was identified by Eagletac, I'm not sure if it applies to all kits, or just some of them. They recommend transplanting the 0-ring from the other cover. Contact EagleTac.

 

[V8TOYTRUCK]

Nice, a flashlight that looks like a Canon L series lens 🙂 That alone will make me get one!

 

[kwarwick]

#1 does not sound good. You may have to return the light. Check your battery and contacts, but it really does not sound good.

#2 this issue was identified by Eagletac, I'm not sure if it applies to all kits, or just some of them. They recommend transplanting the 0-ring from the other cover. Contact EagleTac.

When first engaged (in low) the light will flash bright for a split second and then dims down and begins a rhythmic flickering that morphs into a more distinct pulsing as the light warms up. If I run the light on high for a bit and switch back to low I lose the low completely. The flickering is also barely visible in the other levels. Based on the symptoms I'm guessing this is a defective driver. It is definitely not the batteries nor holder as I tried powering it directly from a different 2 cell 7.4V pack and the symptoms are exactly the same.

Regarding #2: Transferring over the o-ring from the standard tail cap also does not work well as it tends not to stay in place and shift to the inside when tightening down the screws for the cap.

Definitely not a happy camper to wait this long and then receive a defective light. :scowl: I've emailed Eagletac to see what they say.

 

[Wattnot]

Along with the mentioned improvements to the next batch of the M2 line, for the folks who already bought one (or two, or three!), EagleTac informed me you will soon be able to buy the new laser marked ring directly from EagleTac as an accessory. :thumbsup:

 

[jtice]

How about a ring that doesnt allow you to go into strobe?
I am tempted to glue something in mine.

Other than that my light is doing well, everyone at camp about crapped their pants when I fired it up.

~John

 

[kwarwick]

Along with the mentioned improvements to the next batch of the M2 line, for the folks who already bought one (or two, or three!), EagleTac informed me you will soon be able to buy the new laser marked ring directly from EagleTac as an accessory. :thumbsup:

Sorry, what are these improvements? Eagletac is going to replace my defective light, but if there are some significant improvements coming I might want to delay slightly and get the improved version.

 

[Justin Case]

Has anyone tried the light with a handgun yet? I don't mean mounted on a rail. I mean using one of the usual gun+light methods like Harries.

 

[Wattnot]

Sorry, what are these improvements?

Sorry, I thought everyone saw the other thread and didn't want to repeat it but:

Improved weight balance between the head and tail
Improved LED center alignment (even though I found nothing wrong with mine)
Laser printed/labeled control ring
Larger screws made of stainless steel
Improved waterproof seal overall
Complete battery tray with clicky (not sure what this means exactly)
An M2 screw driver

And best of all (but not as good as a click or detent) Increased separation between turbo and strobe.

Has anyone tried the light with a handgun yet? I don't mean mounted on a rail. I mean using one of the usual gun+light methods like Harries.

This light with a handgun? Yikes. They should but a handgun rail on the LIGHT! :laughing: