The Ultimate EagleTac M2*** TRIPLE REVIEW!

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Couples of things I noticed on my light. I have the Tri-cree cool.
I was not able to fit the rectangular o-ring to the clicky. Used the o-ring from the base tail instead.
The travel between modes is different between each mode.
Between strobe and super high it is very close.
Super high and high is a little more.
High and medium are the furthest apart.
Medium and low are are a little less than high/med are.
These are not complaints just observations.
 
I just received my M2X from Mike @ PTS. Really amazing brightness and buttery smooth adjuster ring. I haven't tried it with the clicky yet. That will come.

I've taken to calling it low-med-high-and crazy. It appears to strobe in Crazy and yes, it's a little slower than Fenix's current strobe. More like their old P2D-CE strobe, if I remember correctly.

Review to follow! Just give me a few days to gather my impressions.
 
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Couples of things I noticed on my light. I have the Tri-cree cool.
I was not able to fit the rectangular o-ring to the clicky. Used the o-ring from the base tail instead.
The travel between modes is different between each mode.
Between strobe and super high it is very close.
Super high and high is a little more.
High and medium are the furthest apart.
Medium and low are are a little less than high/med are.
These are not complaints just observations.

I just received mine as well. I will +1 your observations about the different travel lengths between modes. Mine appears similiar to yours.

I don't see it as a problem, just something to get used to. Now to get a smallish screwdriver so I can play with the clicky.
 
Since the selector ring is just a mechanical switch, maybe with bit of tinkering the strobe can be disabled. Probably void the warranty though.
 
Since the selector ring is just a mechanical switch, maybe with bit of tinkering the strobe can be disabled. Probably void the warranty though.

An idea to play with would be to put a zip tie around the body just below the ring. Adjust it so the "bump" (technical term) stopped your fingere from sliding into the strobe.
If that works womething more permanent could be put in place.
 
view.sfly


Eagletac M2 Warm (250 ft)
 
I took a few photos tonight of the following: Fenix P3D Rebel, Fenix T1, Surefire C2 w/Malkoff M60, and the Eagletac M2. This is the first time I've taken photos of my lights at night, so I don't know if the settings on my camera were consistent for all the shots. I used the "auto" setting with no flash, so I'm assuming the camera adjusted differently for each shot. In my attempt to avoid this, I focused the lens using the same object and lighting before actually snapping each photo, but I'm not sure if that ensures that the camera settings remain the same? If someone can provide tips here, I'd be open to trying again. I'm using a Nikon D50.

In the pictures, you'll notice the top of a very small Japanese Maple at the bottom of each shot - that little tree is only about five feet in front of me, and I hope it helps depict the intensity of the spill. The first group of trees/bushes following is about 100 feet away, and then the final tree in the background is about 225 feet. By the way, I just walked off the distances, so don't hold me accountable to the exact measures.


Fenix P3D Rebel
fenixp3drebel250ft.jpg


Fenix T1
fenixt1250ft.jpg


Surefire w/Malkoff M60
surefirec2malkoffm60250.jpg


Eagletac M2 Warm
eagletacm2warm250ft.jpg




I like the idea of the control ring, but I expected it to be smoother/easier to turn with my thumb. Don't get me wrong, it's not difficult to turn by any means, but it definitely feels a little tight. Granted, this might be a positive in the sense that a slight bump or rub won't inadvertently change my light setting, and overtime, this ring might actually loosen up a bit from normal usage. I haven't tried the clicky, so I can't weigh in on that yet. I wanted to use the ring control for a few days before switching.

I agree with the previous posts that it's just way too easy to go straight to strobe with the control ring. It would be so nice to have the strobe as a "left" turn, and leave the low, med, high, turbo setting to the right turn. This is really my only complaint with the light.

I'm looking forward to the diffuser kit - I think it will make the light even more versatile and useful in different situations. For $140, I would actually expect Eagletac to make a diffuser a standard offering with the light, but hopefully they'll price them fairly.

Overall, I'm impressed with the M2. It's definitely heavier than I expected, but man, this thing puts out the light. The warm tint of the neutral LED version is a really nice tint at night. Compared to my stock 3D Mag, it's a slight bit more white, but I'm impressed that we now have LED's that offer this warm of a tint. I would have probably gone with the P7, but since I have a Legion II on the way, I wanted to see how useful/different the warm tint is when camping/hiking (or messing around in the garden at night).
 
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I took a few photos tonight of the following: Fenix P3D Rebel, Fenix T1, Surefire C2 w/Malkoff M60, and the Eagletac M2.
great pictures :thanks:
comparing two of my favourite lights to what I ordered lovecpf
The difference between the M2XW and the T1 looks bigger than I expected :devil:
 
Another thought on preventing the strobe is if the spacing between levels on the adjustment ring can be changed, the strobe could be set so that a long turn past the max output would be required. The problem is that it is such a short hop from max.
 
Vernon,

Good pics for comparison, thanks for time and effort. I have the M2X (cool) and M2(P7). Found the control ring as you described in that the P7 is real smooth and almost loose and the 2X is a bit tighter. Maybe it is in the lubrication.
 
Vernon:

Well done. I especially like that you included the japanese red maple in the foreground, it really shows off the M2X neutral tint's better color rendering. Nice!
 
When the Legion II gets here (eventually), I'll do another comparison with the M2. I think the Legion will have more output, but you just can't beat the nice warm tint of the M2. Can someone who already has both post a comparison?
 
Since the selector ring is just a mechanical switch, maybe with bit of tinkering the strobe can be disabled. Probably void the warranty though.

Not sure I would call it a mechanical switch. With the ring off of the flashlight, you have a metal tab on the inside of the ring that, when on the flashlight, is stopped in its 90 degree travel by tabs machined on the flashlight head. With the ring off, you can activate modes by placing the ring near the correspond area on the flashlight head to turn on the flashlight. So if you glued some thin material on the the plastic tab on the inside ring you could prevent the metal tab from being able to ride above the area that activates strobe.

Make sense.
 



This shows part of the reason for the UI manipulation problem between the turbo and strobe modes. The separation between modes is NOT uniform! The combined high and turbo modes are LESS THAN the single medium mode.

It's understandable why users tend to overshoot the high and turbo, into the strobe, if they are not careful.

Disclaimer: This chart is based on a sampling of one. Accuracy is approximately + 3/4 degree.

EDIT: CORRECTED ERROR IN DEGREE SPREAD CALCULATION.
 
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There's a magnet embedded into the selector ring. It will be easy to lockout Strobe by filling the last amount of the threads the selector ring travels in. Silicone caulk would be more reversible than epoxy.

G27
 
CPF member Nakahoshi posted some pictures of the insides of the M2 triple cree, on his sales tread, credit goes to him.





The sink looks very capable of dissipating the heat generated by the leds, I like the self centering holes for the leds, same idea Fenix used on some of their lights, Nakahoshi did say that puting it back together was almost impossible and he ended up selling it.

Tread here:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=195182

AlexGT
 
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