Thrunite, eagletac, zebralight or sunwayman?

[Gunner12]

It took me a whole to get the lingo right jomax, so no worries

 

[jomox]

Sorry again though, will work on improving my posts in future with better knowledge (Thanks to you guys)

 

[Mendel272]

I said I'd post some thoughts, so here they are. I like it a lot, but I don't love it. It is quite bright for its size, but rated at 397 lumens (I'm using a duracell cr123), it barely registers as brighter than my ancient fenix p2d with 2xAA (180~ish) That said, it is the perfect edc size. I have set the first click to be moonlight, and I find this extremely useful. The second click is medium, after which I cannot perceive any increase to high or turbo, so I don't really use them much. Maybe I will if I need more distance. I did, however, set it to turbo before handing it to a friend, and had my favorite light-related interaction of all time.

me: here, check out my new toy
my friend: what's that? Oh, just a flashli--[at this point he clicks it on, shining the turbo on his palm] Jesus Christ, I'm blind. Wow that's brighter than I expected

Me: $#!% eating grin


so I guessI just want a 1k lumen output on something smaller than my thumb, which is obviously not going to happen. For all intents and purposes, this exceeds my needs. It's the perfect size for me, it looks fine (I think you can't beat the swm for looks) The beam is very floody, and all that remains to be seen is how long this battery lasts. As an aside, I don't love the lanyard that came with it, so I made my own, but the clip is great.

I think that's what I'll do. I have a supply of cr123s from a couple years ago. I bought a couple fenixs in around 2007-2008, and I got an almost lifetime supply of cr123s back then, I just finally felt the need to upgrade.

The light arrived this morning, but I need to find my batteries :/

I'll post some thoughts shortly

 

[cyclesport]

Sorry you're dissapointed with the perceived output of the D25C. This light has been measured to hit 450 OTF lumens (*compared to ET's conservatively published 277 OTF lumens) on a RCR123 batt...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...nd-up-Review-(D25C-D25A2-D25LC2-XM-L-amp-XP-G)

We perceive light logarithmically, for lack of a better description, and comparing the D25C's (roughly double) max output on a RCR123 side-to-side next to your P2D...will make the D25C seem only around 40% brighter. You'd essentially need to go to around 600 lumens for your new light to appear twice as bright as the P2D.

Also, when a lot of light is dispersed in a floody beam like the D25C, it won't seem as bright as the same output more tightly focused in a light with a deeper reflector. Even tint differences will make one light seem brighter than another. If your purpose is to get the most output, and can accept the trade-off of higher heat and somewhat shorter runtimes, you may want to buy a couple of 3.7v protected 16340 ICR's and a charger and you will up your output considerably.

 

[AVService]

Sorry you're dissapointed with the perceived output of the D25C. This light has been measured to hit 450 OTF lumens (*compared to ET's conservatively published 277 OTF lumens) on a RCR123 batt...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...nd-up-Review-(D25C-D25A2-D25LC2-XM-L-amp-XP-G)

We perceive light logarithmically, for lack of a better description, and comparing the D25C's (roughly double) max output on a RCR123 side-to-side next to your P2D...will make the D25C seem only around 40% brighter. You'd essentially need to go to around 600 lumens for your new light to appear twice as bright as the P2D.

Also, when a lot of light is dispersed in a floody beam like the D25C, it won't seem as bright as the same output more tightly focused in a light with a deeper reflector. Even tint differences will make one light seem brighter than another. If your purpose is to get the most output, and can accept the trade-off of higher heat and somewhat shorter runtimes, you may want to buy a couple of 3.7v protected 16340 ICR's and a charger and you will up your output considerably.

While what you say is true it seems odd to me that someone would choose to do this but then be losing the different modes which are one of the best features of this light to me?
I know we each have our own uses for the light but being able to blast for a short time is less useful for me as opposed to having the full range of outputs available as this was designed to be used.

I hope at some time soon they just fix this by making the light the same inside as the new Ti model allowing the use of RCR and full mode selection too.

 

[TEEJ]

Yeah, humans tend to look at the "hot spot" to judge "brightness".

That means all the rest of the light, in the corona and spill, etc, is not "counted" by our eyes.

Lights with a higher cd measurement look 'brighter".


Lights with a higher lumen measurement can look dimmer if the cd is low, and so forth.

People commonly see my 131 lumen/high cd light as "brighter" than my 750 lumen/low cd light.


The low lumen/high cd light SUCKS for hiking or tasks...as its just a tiny but bright spot, but the high lumen/low cd light is GREAT for hiking or tasks, as it lights up everything around me at once.

Conversely, the low lumen/high cd light CAN hit a target 300 yards away, even if it only hits it with a teeny patch of light...but the the high lumen/low cd light cannot.

I could of course simply aim a high lumen/HIGH cd light at my 300 yard target and lit it ALL up fine.


And so forth.

 

[cyclesport]

While what you say is true it seems odd to me that someone would choose to do this but then be losing the different modes which are one of the best features of this light to me?
I know we each have our own uses for the light but being able to blast for a short time is less useful for me as opposed to having the full range of outputs available as this was designed to be used.

I hope at some time soon they just fix this by making the light the same inside as the new Ti model allowing the use of RCR and full mode selection too.

I largely agree, hence my #12 post.

It would be nice to have all modes fully available on a 16340 and better spacing between medium and high since IMHO, they're too close now. I'm guessing this will ultimately be updated in the 2013 Aluminum version too, but one will still have to accept the high heat generated from a 3.7v power source.

Actually, from a practical viewpoint, I never really saw loosing the medium on the first gen D25C's as a big downside since the medium is so close to the next level anyway, even using a 3v CR123. All other modes function fine on the first gen D25C using 16340's and I don't mind jumping from moonlight or low to full max since IMO medium was always kind of a useless mode with this light (due to it's too high of an output) anyway.

 

[Dubois]

I have a D25A ...... good for close combat situations ...............

Err, what? You use the D25a in combat situations? Wouldn't be my choice in a combat situation (I prefer to run).

 

[jomox]

Err, what? You use the D25a in combat situations? Wouldn't be my choice in a combat situation (I prefer to run).

No I don't use it for that, but that's what the light seems good at in terms of what the beam can do (Nevermind size or whatever). It's the D25A2 by the way, not a D25LC, I use it in the woods mainly as it's most useful there.

 

[mcnair55]

I really am enjoying this thread as i am about to snag a D25 but before i do would like opinions on the following two lights if anyone has them.


Klarus P1A and or

Klarus P1C

Nitecore MT1A and or

Nitecore MT1C

I have listed both the AA and 123 versions of each.

 

[Satisfactionassured]

Hello, im ebay seller
want to sell flashlight
looking for a good dealer to cooperate,
could anyone help
many thanks
cheers

 

[jimboutilier]

I'm looking for a very small edc, preferably with an xm-l engine. I would like to be able to take it close to 300 (280+) lumens otf on turbo, and hold at around 100 (70-120) for as long as possible. My only other preference is maximum shelf life. It does me no good if when I finally need it, the battery is dead.

i've narrowed it down, I think, to an eagletac d25c ti, a thrunite 1A, a sunwayman v11r, or a zebralight sc52.
i prefer something I can run with an enerloop, but I'd be ok with something in a cr123.

i like the idea of the magnetic twisting brightness adjustor, but I've heard that the v11r suffers from parasitic drain. So of my above options, which should I buy? Am I missing something better than all of these in the sub-100$ range?


thanks

I have all those lights except the Thrunite and like them all in different ways.

I like the V11R for it's fully variable output and the fact it can take any flavor of CR123/RCR123/16340 or (with extender) any flavor of AA/L91/14500. It does NOT have any parasitic drain btw due to its mechanical tail clicky - it's smaller sibling without tail clicky the M11R has some parasitic drain. And it's UI is very simple - select brightness with the ring and turn on/off with the clicky. On the down side it's fairly large, doesn't have a deep pocket clip, and requires LiIon battery to get beyond 200 lumens.

I have very mixed feelings about the SC52. It's small and light but due to its shape isn't as comfortable to carry for me. While it's UI is great in theory, if you use many lights it's different enough to be confusing when stressed. It seems very well built but only comes with a 1 year warranty (and mine is loosing some anodizing in sharp areas). It has a greenish tint I'm not thrilled about. It's very floody and thus doesn't seem as bright as some lower rated lights. it can run on any flavor or AA/L91/14500 fully regulated and is highly efficient (but does have some parasitic drain). It's the brightest or any light on conventional AAs.

I carry the D25C most often. It's the smallest, lightest, has a deep pocket clip and is easiest carried. It has a good yet simple UI common to a variety of lights. It can run on any flavor of CR123/Rcr123/16340. I like its variety and spacing of brightness and it's mix of throw and flood. It's available in titanium if you want something super tough. On the down side not all versions are fully regulated on LiIon batteries so older models can loose moonlight mode and/or med and/or low so you want a 2013 XML2 or XPG2 model.

I don't think there are any bad choices in you list so hope you are happy once you decide.

 

[jimboutilier]

Frankly I NEVER want the "Disco" modes to come on unless I need them.
From what I can tell if I go around more than 2 times with Memory mode on they will always come on?

I don't understand why they are linked to the Memory feature in any way?

So I either lose Memory and don't have to worry about it as much or I gain Memory but then almost at random they will activate as the spot in the rotation is memorized too,just seems odd to me.

The way it seems to me is that with memory mode on you only have to cycle through L/M/H once to get to the blinky modes so if you memorize med (the only one that makes sense as you have instant access to low or high with memory off) you are only a couple of presses away from blinky modes. It remembers presses - even full ones for several seconds so it's easy to accidentally get to blinky modes with memory on.

So I keep memory off. With it off you have to cycle through L/M/H twice to get to blinky modes. And you can get to the initial low again at any point in the cycle with a long half press.

 

[Satisfactionassured]

Hello, may i ask are you a flashlight dealer. Im a ebay seller, want to sell flashlight and looking for a dealer to cooperate.
Could you provide me with the information of flashlight you have
and would appreciated if you can give me ur email address
Many thanks