Thrunite Lynx (1x18650, XM-L2) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!

kj2

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In October of 2012, I sent 5 suggestions to ThruNite to improve the Scorpion, and incorporate into the V3 (which I now understand was changed to Lynx).

The following was my first and most important suggestion:
"1. I have noticed that when I pocket-carry the light, sometimes when I take it out to use it, it will NOT turn on. For tactical purposes this could be dangerous. I've found that if the end cap (where you put the batteries in) is just a few degrees turned-loose then the light will NOT turn on. I have to ensure that the end cap piece is fully tightened down or else the light fails on me upon deployment. Even 3 or 4 degrees of loose-twist from snug will cause the light to become deactivated. I would recommend at least a quarter-turn (90 degrees) before the light cuts out... if possible even more."

Any one know if they have fixed this issue with the Lynx?
When I loosen the tailcap slightly, it won't turn on. If you need your light to be 'tactical', and always should turn on, I suggest a light that has no anodized threads at the tail.
But it does take some force, to loosen the tailcap on my sample.
 

Mrgunsngear

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In October of 2012, I sent 5 suggestions to ThruNite to improve the Scorpion, and incorporate into the V3 (which I now understand was changed to Lynx).

The following was my first and most important suggestion:
"1. I have noticed that when I pocket-carry the light, sometimes when I take it out to use it, it will NOT turn on. For tactical purposes this could be dangerous. I've found that if the end cap (where you put the batteries in) is just a few degrees turned-loose then the light will NOT turn on. I have to ensure that the end cap piece is fully tightened down or else the light fails on me upon deployment. Even 3 or 4 degrees of loose-twist from snug will cause the light to become deactivated. I would recommend at least a quarter-turn (90 degrees) before the light cuts out... if possible even more."

Any one know if they have fixed this issue with the Lynx?

For those interested, my other 4 suggestions were basically: 2. Make the tailcap+button metal, 3. More aggressive bezel spikes, 4. Eliminate tab alignment on tailcap, and 5. All 4 modes programmable.

...interestingly, ThruNite never responded to my email/suggestions.


I have the new Lynx---it still cuts out with a quick turn (under 90 degrees).
 

yalskey

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When I loosen the tailcap slightly, it won't turn on. If you need your light to be 'tactical', and always should turn on, I suggest a light that has no anodized threads at the tail.
But it does take some force, to loosen the tailcap on my sample.

If they haven't improved this aspect, I would consider that a big design blunder on their part. You make a tank-like premium tactical flashlight, that can be rendered completely inoperable by turning the tail cap a couple of degrees. If you EDC it in your pocket like me, your bound to get the light to loose just by everyday wear and tear and bumps, etc. I've pulled out the light to use it, only to have it fail on me due to this oversight in design (my opinion).

Well, I guess there's still hope they will fix this on the Lynx V2.
 

kj2

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If they haven't improved this aspect, I would consider that a big design blunder on their part. You make a tank-like premium tactical flashlight, that can be rendered completely inoperable by turning the tail cap a couple of degrees. If you EDC it in your pocket like me, your bound to get the light to loose just by everyday wear and tear and bumps, etc. I've pulled out the light to use it, only to have it fail on me due to this oversight in design (my opinion).

Well, I guess there's still hope they will fix this on the Lynx V2.
Biggest 'issue' I got, is the selector-ring. When I wear it in my jeans, it some times rotate. Which can cause blinding in dark places, or moonlight when you need all the power.
But will mention this further, in my upcoming review :)
 

Dubois

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Biggest 'issue' I got, is the selector-ring. When I wear it in my jeans, it some times rotate. Which can cause blinding in dark places, or moonlight when you need all the power.
But will mention this further, in my upcoming review :)

I've been playing with the Lynx for a week now, and have never had a problem with the selector ring rotating in my pocket. I did worry about accidental activation, with the fairly prominent switch, but have found that leaving the ring set to the momentary position helps, if I forget to use the simple three click lock out.
 

kj2

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I've been playing with the Lynx for a week now, and have never had a problem with the selector ring rotating in my pocket. I did worry about accidental activation, with the fairly prominent switch, but have found that leaving the ring set to the momentary position helps, if I forget to use the simple three click lock out.
Two days ago, I had a accidental activation while it was in my jeans. Luckily I had it on moonlight mode :)
 

wyoben

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Thank you for the review looking into getting a new light. These reviews and forum comments help a lot.
 

zifnab69

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I have both scorpion and lynx and i don't see a big difference between the fireflight modes .
when i buy the lynx i expect a lower fireflight mode :(

it is possible to swap lynx and scorpion tailcap. I prefer the scorpion tailcap.
 

selfbuilt

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I have both scorpion and lynx and i don't see a big difference between the fireflight modes .
when i buy the lynx i expect a lower fireflight mode :(
it is possible to swap lynx and scorpion tailcap. I prefer the scorpion tailcap.
I haven't tried swapping the tailcaps. It may be physically possible, but I'm not sure what effect that would have on functionality (i.e., the tailcap circuit's interaction with the main circuit). I would suggest you check with Thrunite (or get feedback from someone who has done this) first.

As for the firefly mode, I have noticed on other lights that this can be quite variable from one sample to the next. So the fact that my Lynx was slightly lower than my Scorpion (i.e. 0.07 vs 0.12 estimated lumens in my lightbox) should not be taken as indicative of all samples. It's possible that they all vary around a common average firefly, and that there is in fact no consistent difference between Lynx and Scorpion. We would need to see data from more samples to have a better idea.
 

zifnab69

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I have already swaped the tailcaps between the two flashlight and every things are working as usual.

i prefer the scorpion tailcaps because the "cut" are deeper and i can turn it with just one finger. ( its more difficult with the lynx tailcap).
Lynx is a nice flashlight for people who don't have the scorpion. I think there is not a 'real" great difference between both (in every day use). i probably setup my flashlight the same way my scorpion work. ( fireflight, 200lumens, strob, momentary 1000) or perhaps (fireflight, 200 lumens, 400 lumens, momentary 1000) (right to left)

But, the diffuser is a great improvement, and i'll love to buy one other for my scorpion ( and the color filters to) but i don't know where to found them
 

akapuckthecat

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I see that interest in this thread seems to have ended a couple months ago. Selfbuilt mentioned in the review that he had problems with higher capacity (3100, 3400mAh) batteries achieving turbo mode. Does anyone who owns one of these lights know if Thrunite has addressed this issue? Is it still an issue? I think Selfbuilt was reviewing a pre-production prototype.
 

rickypanecatyl

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Don't know that answer but have my own question since you brought it back up...

Does anyone know if Thrunite eventually made a version with clockwise turbo/ccw low mode for the LOGICALLY THINKING people?

Such a cool U.I. - pity they put it in backwards! :)
 
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Rick_R

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User defined mode problem.

Just got mine in (8-7-14). When “ramping” through brightness levels, it will step to the lowest mode, flash twice and start ramping higher/brighter. The problem is when it reaches max output, I get 3 flashes, the light goes out and will not come back on, as if it goes into “lockout”. Never gets to any of the strobe modes.
Regardless of the number/pace of button pushes, no joy. To re-activate the light, you have to remove the tail cap assy. completely from the body, re-attach, then the light will function again (???).
Trying to set it too, momentary, max, med, fast strobe.

Anyone with this problem?
 

selfbuilt

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Sounds like it could be similar to the problem I identified in the review on 3100mAh and 3400mah cells. What kind of cells are you using?
 

Rick_R

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The cells used were, 1) their 2600mAh that came with the light. 2) Orbtranic 3400mAh. Both cells were toped-up and tested again. Same issue persisted?
In your review, you mentioned that temperature may/was the problem. Here on the San Francisco Bay Peninsula, the temp. was apx. 67 deg. F. So I hope cell temp. isn’t the culprit with this production sample.
I have added some “Deoxit” red to the switch assy. (it seemed a little ‘dry’ in it’s operation).

Update.(8-10-14)


Seems now all is well. Was able to set the ‘user defined’ modes, and not “lock-out” while setting the output level/mode.
I think the problem may have been with the switch mechanism. After adding the “Deoxit” red around the button, it ramped through all the brightness levels and strobe modes without a hitch (an hour later).
If it was a cell voltage issue, we will see as the cell runs down, and the settings hold (seems strange that a current controlled, buck/boost driver and electronic switch flashlight would be this sensitive to cell voltage).
I will be using this light heavily this week and see what happens.

I set the modes/output to: (from L to R) 1=momentary turbo; 2=turbo: 3=fast strobe; 4=med. Low (apx. 40%). I know this isn’t the orig. Gladius spec., but what the heck, I’m a ‘lefty’.

Build impressions:
Likes
– 1) Solid construction. 2) Very gripy. Feels good in the hand. 3) Good balance between ‘hotspot’ and ‘spill’. 4) Almost, insane output. People cannot look at you (“it hurts!”, don’t know exactly where you are). Good!


Dislikes – 1) spring on button switch to soft. 2) Threads between bezel and head to loose (bezel unscrews to easily). 3) Tail-cap assy. probably needs an o-ring at the end of the tube body to help from loosening to easily, when belt/pocket clip is removed. Gap between belt/pocket clip retention ring and tail-cap assy.

For LEO/Security duty carry, there is only one (in my opinion) belt carrier,
is the ESP LHU-14-37/43 carrier/holster.
 
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selfbuilt

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Seems now all is well. Was able to set the ‘user defined’ modes, and not “lock-out” while setting the output level/mode.I think the problem may have been with the switch mechanism. After adding the “Deoxit” red around the button, it ramped through all the brightness levels and strobe modes without a hitch (an hour later).
Good to know. Let us know if it continues to work reliably.
 

Rick_R

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Thrunite ‘Lynx’ - Update (8-18-14)
This light is great. I have used it for a bit over a week now, and it performs as reviewed/advertised.

The beam profile is almost the best of all the lights I have (except for the Eagletac SX25L3 w/MT-G2). The ‘hotspot’ to ‘spill’ transition is smooth, not ringy all the way to the outer edge of the spill. When you light someone up, they cannot look at you, they look at the ground, try and shade their eyes, with body language as if ‘they are in some pain’.

I was normally carrying a Nitecore MT-26 (and a P-12 as backup) before acquiring the “Lynx” and comparing the two in field use, the ‘Lynx” just handles better, puts more intense light on and off target to get the job done with punch.

The problems that I reported earlier have not re-occurred. Have changed cells three times, without any issues. The pre-sets are still in place, transitioning from ‘Turbo’ to ‘Strobe’ and locking-out the light hasn’t happened. I did notice a slight dimming in output, when the battery got low (from a current controlled, buck-boost driver ??).
The only problem (if I would call it that) that I have in use, is the transition from a ‘forward-clicky’ to a ‘reverse-clicky’.

If I were to add/change anything:
1- The SS bezel. A) Needs to be “blackened” at least internally, to eliminate the ‘ring’ outside the spill (also reported by HJK). If you remove the bezel, it’s gone. (Note: You can’t just remove the bezel to eliminate this. If you were to drop the light head down, it would deform the thread area, as this is to thin to escape damage). I replaced it with the diffuser, after removing the glass insert. B) Tighten the tolerances in bezel threads to head. It un-screws way to easily. C) The outside edge of the SS bezel is a little too sharp, needs deeper de-burring.
2- Increase the strobe rate to 18Hz (Or variable between 10 & 18Hz). Eliminate ‘Slow Strobe.”
3- Add a fifth position, for ‘Momentary Strobe’.
4- Remove ‘lock-out’ feature. Not needed. Twist the tail-cap slightly loose (I think this would work out the best, while
5- Add an o-ring to be placed between the clip fixing ring and tail-cap assembly (this will help the tail-cap and ring from loosening).
6- Reduce the switch ‘stroke’ slightly (20% ?), and increase the spring rate a bit (to easy to depress).
7- Add some light knurling to the ‘mode’ switch, then cut in some the flutes (Needs just a little more traction).
under stress, and needing get the light on ‘now’).

The on/off & mode switching, all at the tail-cap is definitely the way to go for a ‘Tactical’ flashlight. The on/off and mode switching at each end of a light, is problematic.
I thought the Nitecore SRT-7 would be a nice mode switcher quickly, but with the functions opposed from each other,
you have to change grips or use the other hand.

All-in-all I’m very happy with this light. In a urban environment, this light doesn’t get ‘washed-out’ by the ambient lighting as much as some of the other tactical lights that I have. Is it perfect in the LEO/Security world. No, It’s awfully close though. Oh, did I say I liked this beam. Yea I really like it.

Note: The holster that comes with the light, is way to flimsy for daily use. It’s also about ¾” short in grabbing all of the Velcro patch, without activating the button on/off switch.

Thankz, Rick

 

Danielsan

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Is the light out of production? IN the review it says the Lynx will switch to an ultra low mode to indicate the voltage is low. The question would how low is the voltage when this happens? 3V under load? because probably the protection of the battery will kick in before the light indicates the low voltage?
 

Rick_R

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I don't think it's out of production (it's to new). It appears that Thrunite has production run’s in batch’s.

As to: ultra low mode to indicate the voltage is low. I would not know, never have run the cell down to where ‘low voltage’ protection kicks in. I have noticed a significant reduction in output (while on high/turbo) and just changed the cell out.
I don’t use/carry this light outside of work. It would be un-healthy and problematic to not have full capability, Now.
 
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