Thrunite ‘Lynx’ - Update (8-18-14)
This light is great. I have used it for a bit over a week now, and it performs as reviewed/advertised.
The beam profile is almost the best of all the lights I have (except for the Eagletac SX25L3 w/MT-G2). The ‘hotspot’ to ‘spill’ transition is smooth, not ringy all the way to the outer edge of the spill. When you light someone up, they cannot look at you, they look at the ground, try and shade their eyes, with body language as if ‘they are in some pain’.
I was normally carrying a Nitecore MT-26 (and a P-12 as backup) before acquiring the “Lynx” and comparing the two in field use, the ‘Lynx” just handles better, puts more intense light on and off target to get the job done with punch.
The problems that I reported earlier have not re-occurred. Have changed cells three times, without any issues. The pre-sets are still in place, transitioning from ‘Turbo’ to ‘Strobe’ and locking-out the light hasn’t happened. I did notice a slight dimming in output, when the battery got low (from a current controlled, buck-boost driver ??).
The only problem (if I would call it that) that I have in use, is the transition from a ‘forward-clicky’ to a ‘reverse-clicky’.
If I were to add/change anything:
1- The SS bezel. A) Needs to be “blackened” at least internally, to eliminate the ‘ring’ outside the spill (also reported by HJK). If you remove the bezel, it’s gone. (Note: You can’t just remove the bezel to eliminate this. If you were to drop the light head down, it would deform the thread area, as this is to thin to escape damage). I replaced it with the diffuser, after removing the glass insert. B) Tighten the tolerances in bezel threads to head. It un-screws way to easily. C) The outside edge of the SS bezel is a little too sharp, needs deeper de-burring.
2- Increase the strobe rate to 18Hz (Or variable between 10 & 18Hz). Eliminate ‘Slow Strobe.”
3- Add a fifth position, for ‘Momentary Strobe’.
4- Remove ‘lock-out’ feature. Not needed. Twist the tail-cap slightly loose (I think this would work out the best, while
5- Add an o-ring to be placed between the clip fixing ring and tail-cap assembly (this will help the tail-cap and ring from loosening).
6- Reduce the switch ‘stroke’ slightly (20% ?), and increase the spring rate a bit (to easy to depress).
7- Add some light knurling to the ‘mode’ switch, then cut in some the flutes (Needs just a little more traction).
under stress, and needing get the light on ‘now’).
The on/off & mode switching, all at the tail-cap is definitely the way to go for a ‘Tactical’ flashlight. The on/off and mode switching at each end of a light, is problematic.
I thought the Nitecore SRT-7 would be a nice mode switcher quickly, but with the functions opposed from each other,
you have to change grips or use the other hand.
All-in-all I’m very happy with this light. In a urban environment, this light doesn’t get ‘washed-out’ by the ambient lighting as much as some of the other tactical lights that I have. Is it perfect in the LEO/Security world. No, It’s awfully close though. Oh, did I say I liked this beam. Yea I really like it.
Note: The holster that comes with the light, is way to flimsy for daily use. It’s also about ¾” short in grabbing all of the Velcro patch, without activating the button on/off switch.
Thankz, Rick
