Ti-ght Ti Threads???

[lyte~speede]

As it turns out this thread could go many places within this forum. I thought I'd post here, because, well...you'll see...

Let me start by saying that my McGizmo lights are among my favorites and the info to follow is not intended to be critical of any of Dons lights, after all, this'll make them even better. My Ti-PDS just happened to be the subject of this successful experiment.

Okay, I've got a hard-won secret I'm willing to share with fellow flash-o-holics.

Heresy? maybe...

After lengthy discussions between myself, a materials test engineer and a very wise millwright from yesteryear I have come up with a solution for the occasional tight/gritty threads on Titanium lights.

Fix:
1) remove o-rings and batteries
2) Wipe all lubricants away.
3) DEGREASE. Use a citrus product, lighter fluid, weapon solvent--nothing
too aggressive.
4) Dry with rag and let air dry. Keep your oily hands off these threads.
5) INSPECT threads with loupe. If OK go to step 7.
6) If threads need a clean use a scotch-brite/(0000) steel wool--although Ti
is tough, don't get top aggressive with cleaning. Repeat step 3-5.
7) Mate threads to full bottom for tactile inspection WITHOUT OVER
TIGHTENING. They should screw smoothly. A spring loaded battery in the chamber will defeat this inspection. No batteries allowed.
8) Un-mate. Wipe or blow threads with compressed air.
9) *HOLY GRAIL* Lube threads using the folowing:
Mix a thin weight synthetic lubricant (I use 3-5 drops of Finish Line Cross
Country) with only one of the following ingredients:
A) Baking soda or B) Well powdered cigar ashes.
The amount of A or B should be what you can scoop with the last 1/4" of
a toothpick--not too much. You may have to play with ratios here.
10)Do not over lube.
11)Install o-rings
12)Apply VERY thin swipe of synthetic lube only (no soda or ash mix) to
outer surface of o-ring.
13)Reassemble light.
14)Enjoy THE best thread twisting experience of a lifetime.

(start of edit)

14b The "don't panic if it's not perfect" step.
If not perfect start by adding a bit of lube only (no mixture) directly to threads. Test threading action. If not perfect then add a little soda or ash directly to threads. Test threading action.
Try not to overlube=mess.

(end of edit)

Disclaimer: This is not rocket science but since I can't show you this in person, I'm not responsible for a goof on your part.

I wanted to share this here to simply make the best lights better.

Trust me...I've tried ALL the products out there and I've spent unhealthy amounts of time searching this forum for lubrication "threads" to no avail (without naming products).

 

[maxspeeds]

This sounds very interesting. I'll definitely try the scotch bright. But, I'm not sure where to find the Finish Line Cross Country lube. 😀

 

[brucec]

This sounds very interesting. I'll definitely try the scotch bright. But, I'm not sure where to find the Finish Line Cross Country lube. 😀

Bike stores. At the moment, I'm also using some kind of Finish Line cold weather bike lube on my Ti PD-S. Seems to work well on the orange o-rings and makes for smoother lighter piston operation as well as a pretty smooth twist action. I tried using it on the black o-ring on an AMC mule with not as good results. It seemed to slightly bind the head so maybe there was some chemical incompatibility. I mostly use the 50:50 Krytox mix now. I haven't had to relube my Haiku or LS20, but when I do, I'll use the Krytox mix.

 

[Tekno_Cowboy]

Interesting...
I've been using Krytox 226, with a drop of 101 on the o-ring, with great results. I might try this too, just to see how it works. 😀

 

[lyte~speede]

Trust me people...You'll never know unless you try. And if it doesn't work for you (its most likely your mix ratio) simply wipe clean and lubricate with product x, y or z (such as what you find mentioned on this forum). You are not going to damage Ti with this mixture. If you get it right you will be amazed. Again, this is for Ti to Ti threads. The key is the "rolling agent"--the soda or ash. They are not abrasive enough to damage threads in such small amounts--especially Ti.

I prefer the baking soda mix.

Finish line is available at bike stores or where bike parts are available.

I do not work for, sell or promote the product mentioned here.

Avoid synthetic lubes with distillates on certain/most o-rings.

 

[coloradogps]

I have had the best luck with teflon tape.

One wrap around the threads only, other wise it will be hard to turn.

:thumbsup:

 

[I'mGatMan!]

Great info. I'm gonna tag this for when it's time to lube mine up.

Thanks, people!

 

[karlthev]

I have had the best luck with teflon tape.

One wrap around the threads only, other wise it will be hard to turn.

:thumbsup:

+1 This is the best, easiest (1 second if you fall asleep during the process!) and, when the twisting gets tough again, can be repeated in that 1 second timeframe. Cost? I dunno--I have one roll of teflon tape for the past 20 years....



Karl

 

[nfetterly]

I've been using the Krytox 50/50 (sig line). Dupont products - oil & grease - synthetic (teflon) based.

May be somewhat similar with the grease supplying some rolling action.

Needless to say - cleaning & inspection of the threads is always a good idea.

 

[McGizmo]

I have had the best luck with teflon tape.

One wrap around the threads only, other wise it will be hard to turn.

:thumbsup:

3M makes a cool and expensive very thin teflon tape with adhesive on one side. I put some of this on a piston at the open end and it seemed to enhance the action. (no aid in the thread action but it can be an enhancement in the piston action).

The softer battery spring from Lee spring that was brought to our attention a number of months back also helps as it puts less load on the face of the threads.

 

[tino_ale]

I have had the best luck with teflon tape.

One wrap around the threads only, other wise it will be hard to turn.

:thumbsup:

Yep, does work very nicely but the tape is easy to tear or get cut by the threads so has to be replaced quite on a regular basis

 

[lyte~speede]

Though my instruction set above seems tedious it's actually a quick process once you get the mixture right.

It only seems complicated because I wanted to offer clear steps.

I can't wait for someone to try this, become enlightened and report back with their independent confirmation.

For months my Ti-PDS has been 'twisting' better than it ever has and as good if not better than any light I own--without any additional maintenance. The mixture lasts without drying out or discoloring, at least with the baking soda mix. As with any unsealed system I'm sure reapplication will be needed but this is lasting longer than I ever anticipated.

 

[karlthev]

Yep, does work very nicely but the tape is easy to tear or get cut by the threads so has to be replaced quite on a regular basis

Yeah, the tape does cut and have to be replaced but, seems OK for me. Hey, lots of methods to work for this. I had tried valve lapping paste on one light but found it to be too abrasive. As I said, whatever works...


Karl

 

[mendhammarsh]

Just curious. Is there any reason why a product such as Titanium Lubricating Paste not be as effective?

 

[Tekno_Cowboy]

It might be just as effective, but it might not be as nice, depending on your personal preferences. I've found the smoothest action to be had from my 2 Ti lights is with straight grease on the threads. Anything thinner than GPL201 Krytox just didn't give me the "butter smooth" action I like.

 

[mendhammarsh]

Thank you Tekno for the information.

 

[lyte~speede]

I mostly agree with 'tekno'... Lubricants that are too thin aren't smooth and grease CAN be okay.

If a lube is too thin the piston spring pressure overcomes the lubes ability to remain between points of friction.

With grease we have found some products are okay, but if too thick you're back to a tight feeling thread again.

 

[precisionworks]

The softer battery spring from Lee spring that was brought to our attention a number of months back also helps as it puts less load on the face of the threads.

+1

Less thread loading = easier twisting. My PD-S gets a ton of use, as it's with me 40+ hours per week at work. Since installing the Lee spring, and cleaning/relubing with Krytox 50/50, it is the smoothest light I own - even smoother than my aluminum lights with twist tail caps.

Plus the piston action is perfect - light enough for easy activation on low or high, stiff enough that it always turns off when the piston is released.

 

[lyte~speede]

Perhaps someone has tried this but has not posted their results(?)--I'm surprised!

I will be happy to post pictures of the mixture step if it helps...

-Minor revisions to the steps in post #1.

 

[Death's Head]

OK, I tried a variation of what you instructed. First off, I used my favorite folding knife lube, Militec-1. And with this lube, I mixed it with a bit of graphite lubricant that was given to me from friend on another forum who says his company produces the finest graphite powder in the business.
Now I've got to say, I've already tried Militec-1 by itself in the past but didn't notice any difference on the action being smoother. But from what I've read here in the past about titanium having a tendency to "grab" titanium, hence that tight action that you always experience with Ti threads. It did make sense to have something in the threads like baking soda and the such to act as very small ballbearings.
So after putting in the Militec-1 with some graphite, I have to say that the threads are very, very smooth. I'm able to twist on my Ti Arc easily with one hand, or with the light in my mouth and one hand twisting the head. I wasn't able to do that with the Ti Arc before applying the combination of lubricants.