Are you suggesting that thin oil is better than thick Greese?
I don't see where I have made this suggestion. The lube situation is as much a mystery to me as it is most of you.
Going back a few years, initially I used Nyelube on the merits of SF endorcement. I found that after a light sat for a few days, the lube was very resistant to rotation of the parts; major "stiction". I then moved to pure silicone grease which had much less of a tendency to bind up after sitting for a while and this is the grease used on all under water housings and camera gear. A friend had given me a tube of a special bike lube which sat on my shelf until the time I had some real thread issues with some chrome plated PD's. I found that this bike lube did wonders. Upon investigation, it was no longer available but boasted being Krytox based. Upon further investigation, I found that MaryKate had a similar lube packaged for salt water fishing reels and gear. Cool! Well cool until I realized that MaryKate had recently changed ownership and the new owners did not maintain the agreement with Dupont and this lube was discontinued.
At that point, I found a distributor for the full line of Krytox oils and greases and started buying various weights of oil and grease, looking for a solution. After many trials and errors and over $1000 spent on lube, I came to a combination of I believe it is 101 oil (thinest oil) and 201 grease (thinest grease) which best mimicked the lubes of the Bike and Fishing lubes that had been packaged by Dupont. The combo is really weird to mix and prone to separation. However, it is the best I have tried to date. Since then I have wasted more money on tips and testimonials from CPF members but have yet to find a lube that performs, for me, better or even on par with the Krytox concoction. :shrug:
Dupont also has a liquid teflon with a highly evaporative delivery fluid which quickly leaves you with a dry and teflon coated part. This would seem ideal for the metal surfaces as it should make them more slippery and yet not dust and debris magnets. I believe it does improve the friction in the threads and say on the piston and sleeve surfaces but I still get the best results with the Krytox.
Quite candidly, it remains a mystery to me and I am not comfortable making any recommendations based on anything beyond experience that has little basis of understanding or "theory". In a similar thread not too long ago, I left it to the experts among you and many come off as quite knowledgeable about the various lubes.
Some time ago, I spoke to a guy who had a lot of machining and practical experience with Ti threaded parts. We were discussing the propensity of Ti to gall when significantly loaded and then moved relative to loaded surfaces (like threads). He said he always used a little bee's wax and never had a problem provided he used the wax. Jeff Hong (Mr. Ted Bear) reported some time back that he found a certain expensive car wax provided a good dry lube for his Ti lights.
I don't know the answer and I have learned what works for me as well as have a good healthy skepticism for any claims to some new solution or snake oil offered up by someone else.