Tiablo A10 R2 WC Review

If we are getting so high lux readings, what is the amperage on the emitter? I am afraid it is too high for such a big increase....

The Regalight EDC with the Snipe Bezel was getting around 36,000LUX when the emitter was being hit with around 1.7A I believe. So if there is something going funky with the A10 that is similar to the EDC (maybe they use the same driver?) it could be doing the same thing.
 
But Mev is measuring over 43,000 Lux with a single 18650, and mine only draws 1.15A with this setup, so I don't think it has the problem like Regal.
 
OK, but do you find it logical to have such a big increase by changing a switch only?
Well i am happy i didn't buy the Tiablo A10 yet. When it will be a fine product i might buy it, it looks like all of you are beta testers(but you paid also) for the company.🙁
 
OK, but do you find it logical to have such a big increase by changing a switch only?

It is not only a switch, look at the picture I posted.
Your will get less resistance from the battery and probably be rid of the pwm. But your are right, it is a big increase.
 
It is not only a switch, look at the picture I posted.
Your will get less resistance from the battery and probably be rid of the pwm. But your are right, it is a big increase.

I have read about the switches and the pwm , but, do you find it logical? Tiablo hasn't made any testing on their products? Or you are all as i said something like beta testers? Tiablo wanted to make some money early? Well what they have created is worser. I would like to see the amperage draw with the new switch, even with 18650.

I hope at last that these lux readings from Mev are achieved with logical amp draws and that the only problem was the older switch. But i am afraid it is not like this.
 
FWIW I know someone with a super DBS pill that can produce over 40,000 lux @1m it was recommended to him however to back it off to 37,000 lux and that is with a R2 emitter,in mevs review I see 46,000 lux yes! this does seem to high for the A10 IMO



[edit]battery draw at 37.000lux was 1.4A
 
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I have read about the switches and the pwm , but, do you find it logical?
I find it quite logical that the multilevel switch has some pwm and that it disappears when using a dumb switch.
The increase in lux is a bit high, and maybe to high to be logical.

Tiablo hasn't made any testing on their products? Or you are all as i said something like beta testers?
We are always beta testers with new products, I have also bought expensive cameras with problems. The question is how good the manufacturer is to fix the problems, and Tiablo has not been the best in that regard.
 
I have a couple of lights with a super low, like my Hermes H20 (JetIII M) that I can use when I don't need extreme output. Too bad Tiablo didn't use that same method (loosen head) to switch levels. If they had, even though I'd personally probably never use low or strobe on my A10, It would be nice to know it it's there if I wanted it.

It is worse that they advertised that as being offered in the A10 but they did not ship with such a UI nor offer any sort of compensation. :whoopin:
 
Apart from the lux output increase, will the tactical switch "fix" the voltage issue as well?

I have many RCR123A (16340?) lying around (for my A9), will the new switch allow use of these batteries with no issues in the A10? Or should I just stick with the 18650?

No, it will make it worse. Without the tailcap, the LED emitter immediately draws more current on fresh cells; with the multimode switch the draw was less.

I am surprised that its a plain switch. I imagined it was a better UI with a forward clicky. :thumbsdow Time will tell when I get my hands on mine, but this is a bit disappointing to hear.

One more thing came to my mind - Tiablo claims to have a step-up driver, but the current measurements do not support this. With a single 18650 I would expect the current draw to increase when the cell voltage decreases, but this is not showing up in my readings - the current draw decreases, same as would be observed with a dumb regulator/plain resistor.
 
No, it will make it worse. Without the tailcap, the LED emitter immediately draws more current on fresh cells; with the multimode switch the draw was less.
With a freshly charged pair of RCR123s (8.39V), my light only draws 1.13A at battery without the tailcap. It is only with pairs of higher capacity cells (18350, 18650) that it draws 3.5A, and then it's only for about 2 minutes (for 18350, I didn't run the test long enough on 18650s for the current to drop).

I am surprised that its a plain switch. I imagined it was a better UI with a forward clicky. :thumbsdow Time will tell when I get my hands on mine, but this is a bit disappointing to hear.
I am actually happy that it's a standard forward clicky with momentary capability.

Besides, I don't think an electronic (MCU) tailswitch can be made with forward momentary capability, otherwise AW would probably made his "soft start" switch that way. It's one thing some who have bought his switches have said they miss.
 
With a freshly charged pair of RCR123s (8.39V), my light only draws 1.13A at battery without the tailcap. It is only with pairs of higher capacity cells (18350, 18650) that it draws 3.5A, and then it's only for about 2 minutes (for 18350, I didn't run the test long enough on 18650s for the current to drop).
Yeah, but question was in regards to change from multimode tailcap to regular switch tailcap. With the multimode tailcap, even with two 18650's the current draw was much less than measuring without the tailcap. I guess it has to do with PWM regulation, but I still don't get why it kept climbing up in terms of current draw when it initally started at a lower level.

I am actually happy that it's a standard forward clicky with momentary capability.
Forward clicky is good, but I would still have liked to seen the rotate to change brightness UI.

Besides, I don't think an electronic (MCU) tailswitch can be made with forward momentary capability, otherwise AW would probably made his "soft start" switch that way. It's one thing some who have bought his switches have said they miss.

It can be done - pretty easy actually 😉 but I guess much less profit from that.
 
Even if it were only drawing 1 amp on a pair of li-ion cells (naked2 reports 1.13A on the smaller cells that are likely sagging enough under a load to prevent it from doing the "3.5A" glitchy thing)., that's still too much for a single R2. 1 amp from a PAIR of li-ion cells translates to almost 8 watts, an R2 driven to ~1.2A would still only be running around 5W, so it sounds like either this A10 is severely overdriving the LED or heating up something else....

Overall something does not feel right about this light... Can anyone take temperature readings of the emitter with one of those laser thermal thingamajigs, compare that to a more normal light that runs ~3-5W to an R2...?

Eric
 
My switch arrived today too. I notice Tiablo included a warning with the switch - Do not use with RCR123a batteries:thinking: however its printed on the light 2.7 - 8.5v. clearly the pwm in the multi mode tailcap helps to control current flow at the higher voltage.

I tested the new switch with 2 x rcr123a LiFePo2 (totaling 6.5v) and current draw was 1.16amps, same as a single 18650, the lifepo2's would have been discharging a little over 1c

why Tiablo didn't use a circuit that could handle up to 10v like the A9 is beyond me:shakehead

I rekon someone will come up with a modified circuit for the A10 pushing 1.2mah to the led & correctly regulated up to 8.4v, thus making this light the brilliant light that it almost is, anyone ??.......
 
I just received my battery extension tube.

No forward switch yet.

The battery tube looks just like the tube shown in the CPFMP Tiablo A10 Thread.

My tube came with a slight "ding" on the edge of the tube that connects to the A10.

The Type III Hard Anodize black color of the extension battery tube is slighty shiner than the rest of the A10.

Once the extension is connected to the A10 the light becomes very long.

I read in the CPFMP Tiablo A10 Thread that this extension tube is made for the MCE but I ran 2RCR's and it seemed like I had no problems. I will just wait to use the extension tube when I get the MCE upgrade.

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This side connects to stock A10 battery tube.

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This side connects to the rear clickie assembly.

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This baby looks huge!

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Size comparison to a Maglite 2D.

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I knew this light would look too long with an extension for 2x 18650, I thought one for 2x 18500 would make a better compromise of runtime AND looks. Unfortunately when asked by PM if they would be making one for 2x 18500, Tiablo replied "no".

I'll settle for using 2x 18350, and hope someone (hopefully AW!) eventually produces either protected 18350s, or IMR 18350s.
 
That extension tube would look better if they used the aggressive knurling instead of standard cross knurling. It still ends up the same length though, which does look really looong.
 
The reason it looks longer is because it is longer!! But whether the extension is too long or not is a subjective one.
In terms of looks, I'm not fussed either way, in terms of praticality, my usage requires long runtimes without having to change batteries to often, therefore I like the extension. Problem is we now find out we should'nt be using 2 x 18650 with the R2, but its only for use with the ACE MCE :thumbsdow

cheers.
 
Mev has his A10 review up at Light-reviews.com! 😀 For all intents and purposes, I think it might be the "DBS Killer", and finally be crowned the new "King of Throw"! :devil:
 
Mev has his A10 review up at Light-reviews.com! 😀 For all intents and purposes, I think it might be the "DBS Killer", and finally be crowned the new "King of Throw"! :devil:

I don't know. By looking at the the photos in the 1st thread of the Beam shots taken against buildings, the DBS looks to still have it. Thats just my opinion.

Beam shots taken against buildings. At this time distance unknown.


Tiablo A10 R2 WC

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DBS V2 R2 3S

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