Tiablo A8 SSC P7 flamethrower

[StefanFS]

Finished. 2.4A driver with modes. OP reflector and UCL-lens. Modified clicky switch to single level. O-rings are for improved grip.

It performs like the P7 Tiablo A8 did in post 1.

Stefan

 

[StefanFS]

I've been using the bare alu A9 in the post above for three months now. 2.4A to the first generation CSWOI emitter, it's high in that first binning. Everyday. Sometimes as a bike light to work, hehe. At work. In the bag/pocket. Works so well. It washes out in well lit parking lots or similar settings, but it's still blinding. Works like a wall of light with throw in searches or in area lighting. I'm so happy with this mod!

Edit. Added pic with one of my other edc items!

 

[easilyled]

I've been using the bare alu A9 in the post above for three months now. 2.4A to the first generation CSWOI emitter, it's high in that first binning. Everyday. Sometimes as a bike light to work, hehe. At work. In the bag/pocket. Works so well. It washes out in well lit parking lots or similar settings, but it's still blinding. Works like a wall of light with throw in searches or in area lighting. I'm so happy with this mod!

I'm not surprised. Its a great mod.

I have 2 bi-flupic Aleph-P7 L.Es (made by darkzero) in 2 E-series lights (27XRE & Aleph1) and I love the beam that is produced.

A nice, even, powerful flood, with enough power to throw for 100m easily.

I'm sure they throw even better with a reflector like the Tiablo.

I wish that I had a spare McR38 to mod but they seem to be rarer than hens' teeth these days. :mecry:

 

[Hellbore]

Just curious, don't you get gray residue on your hands from handling the bare AL?

That seems to be normal when handling bare AL because of the constant formation of oxidization that rubs off easily.

 

[StefanFS]

Just curious, don't you get gray residue on your hands from handling the bare AL?

That seems to be normal when handling bare AL because of the constant formation of oxidization that rubs off easily.

No. It's polished with felt and compound, then with Autosol and a rag. We mainly use alu cooking pots and they don't stain either. The oxide layer doesn't rub of that easy.

 

[saabluster]

Did you just get married or something? Looks that way going by your new avatar.

 

[Hellbore]

No. It's polished with felt and compound, then with Autosol and a rag. We mainly use alu cooking pots and they don't stain either. The oxide layer doesn't rub of that easy.

That's odd, I have had bare polished aluminum parts before that were polished to a mirror finish but when handled frequently, would stain your hands a little bit. For example an aluminum billet handle on a paintball gun or the tube of a regulator. The machinists I have talked to who do custom paintball parts generally avoid leaving things in bare aluminum because of this and because it scratches easily. Is this some harder alloy of aluminum or something?

Anyway it looks like you got some good throw out of that tiabolo, that's cool, a lot of the cheap P7 lights being sold right now (DX and KD) have pretty lousy throw compared to Cree and P4 lights.

 

[StefanFS]

Hellbore,
it's not mirror polished. It still has structure from the deanodizing process. Mirrot finish is way too sensitive.


saabluster,
yes, I recently got married. With the woman I've been calling my wife for years...

 

[saabluster]

Hellbore,
it's not mirror polished. It still has structure from the deanodizing process. Mirrot finish is way too sensitive.


saabluster,
yes, I recently got married. With the woman I've been calling my wife for years...

Well congratulations then!

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

WOW! just WOW!

I have a couple cheap direct drive P7 lights now and WOW!

That A8 is just freakin' awesome!

 

[wachtelhund]

StefanFS,
Please excuse my ignorance. I've been hangin out here for about two weeks and don't understand what most of you are talking about. If I under stand this correctly, you are using drivers to increase the current to the emitters while keeping the voltage at required opersting levels. Is this ture? I assume that it is and that is what boost the lumen output. Now to figure out how you select drivers and where to purchased them.

 

[easilyled]

StefanFS,
Please excuse my ignorance. I've been hangin out here for about two weeks and don't understand what most of you are talking about. If I under stand this correctly, you are using drivers to increase the current to the emitters while keeping the voltage at required opersting levels. Is this ture? I assume that it is and that is what boost the lumen output. Now to figure out how you select drivers and where to purchased them.

It is because a quad-die emitter is being used that has 4 dies instead of 1 die. (The SSC-P7)

The driver needs to be different as well in order to drive the current high enough for this emitter.

I would recommend you do a search on SSC-P7 as I'm sure you'll find this helpful in understanding this thread.

 

[StefanFS]

StefanFS,
Please excuse my ignorance. I've been hangin out here for about two weeks and don't understand what most of you are talking about. If I under stand this correctly, you are using drivers to increase the current to the emitters while keeping the voltage at required opersting levels. Is this ture? I assume that it is and that is what boost the lumen output. Now to figure out how you select drivers and where to purchased them.

I use two 'affordable' drivers that are available in a number of web shops. They are simple but very reliable. The goal is to keep the current at a level that doesn't make the light overheat. It also will keep the output in a somewhat flatter discharge curve instead of the quick drop of direct drive. There are other drivers available that do essentially the same thing. See the section about flashlight electronics.

 

[Tatjanamagic]

Hello Stefan... Very nice thread...

Can U help unlightened people like me and tell how did U modify stock switch to get only single level.

Thanks...

 

[Mettee]

the tiablo tail in modular, you can pull out the multi level switch and put in the simple reverse clicky that comes with other tiablo lights. IF you pull the tail apart you will see, you cant hurt it really. Just unscrew the plastic holder and the parts should come out.

 

[ohaya]

Hi,

Sorry to resurrect a really, really old thread, but I just got a couple of Tiablo lights (garage sale at Illumination Supply) and while they're all working, I've been thinking about how I could get them "up-to-date". I got an A10G, ACE.G, and an A7. I actually like the A7 the best, but anyway, the first thing is they all have a light module (not sure what else to call it) and it's locked solid.

I think that the top cover that surrounds the emitter is where to get access, but haven't figured out how to remove that without seriously damaging it.

The first (OLD) post in this thread seems to indicate to use a small screwdriver and a hammer?

Has anyone opened one of these guys up, and if so, can you tell me how to do that (without damaging it)?

Thanks,
Jim