Tough single 14500 light?

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kdaq

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After a slew of 123 lights, I picked up a Fenix LD10 R4. To my great surprise, I fell in love with the single AA form factor. Now I'm wanting for more...

:broke: lovecpf

Here are my two current favorites, and what I'd like to change:

  • Fenix LD10 w/R4
    • Desired changes: forward clicky, regulated 14500, make it more substantial (steel bezel?)
  • Lumapower D-Mini VX
    • Desired changes: make a 1 x AA/14500 version, XP-G, and add a good clip :)
After some research, here's the closest I got:

  • Jetbeam Jet-I Pro v3
    • Desired changes: forward clicky, XP-G
The Jetbeam is really close. I'd call it a day if it had a forward clicky. I don't want to go bigger (which unfortunately rules out the RRT-0 on 1xAA).

Any ideas?
 
I don't have experience with the lights you mention, but I got rid of my Surefire's and 4Sevens when I got the Dereelight C2H. Rugged, forward clicky, single 14500 or AA or CR123. If you get the Javelin head, it is quite impressive running a single 14500, but I use the C2H head just as much.

By way of reference, I've also owned ITP, Eagletac, Streamlight, plus the assorted odds and ends from Trustfire. I'm very happy with Dereelight.
 
I don't have experience with the lights you mention, but I got rid of my Surefire's and 4Sevens when I got the Dereelight C2H. Rugged, forward clicky, single 14500 or AA or CR123. If you get the Javelin head, it is quite impressive running a single 14500, but I use the C2H head just as much.

By way of reference, I've also owned ITP, Eagletac, Streamlight, plus the assorted odds and ends from Trustfire. I'm very happy with Dereelight.
+1 on the C2H
 
He loved the LD10, why wouldn't he love a Quark?

I have an LD10 and I love it too, but I've got a Quark on the way just to see how I like it (I don't need it at all: my addiction is growing faster than my wallet seems to be able to find cash - strange thatlovecpf).

Anyway the reason I went for the Quark, other than the fact it was warm white as I've been keen to try warm for ages, is due to the fact you can run Li-ion with full regulation.

You can also 'lego' the parts to make a number of flashlight combinations running on a multitude of different battery types without a different head. The only exception to this rule is the 2x123 model as it's got a higher required voltage as the R/CR batteries hold more (2x3V or 2x4.2V).

You can buy any of the 123, AA, or 2xAA models and just a spare battery tube to make a different torch :nana:

I'd keep going on and on but you're probably best reading about it here or here.

Also, I'm not sure on this, but I want to try, I've heard you can buy the regular Quark (has a reverse clicky) and buy the tactical tailcap (forward clicky) if you like the interface of your Fenix: the Quark Regular is pretty much the same as the LD10 operation wise but it has a lower low included and it has regulation for 14500, that's what I've gathered from reading anyway.
If you do this you wont be able to half click to change modes when the light is on. Each time you momentarily turn it on it'll also change modes so you do that until you find the level you want and then click it to stay on.

I'm tired and rambling and you can find out about the difference between the regular and tactical models from the review and the 4sevens site.

OH I just remembered, if you want to know ANYTHING I think you'll find it here..ti-force is obviously way more knowledgeable than myself and it also appears he has a little too much free time to himself....with his Quarks of course :jealous: haha
 
Quark AA. Look into the available regular or tactical UI and flush tail cap (good for tail standing) or tactical (forward clicky). You may find the R2 Quarks throw better. You can't go wrong either way.
 
Anyone know definitively if the forward clicky switch can be put in the tailstanding cap or vice versa?
 
Anyone know definitively if the forward clicky switch can be put in the tailstanding cap or vice versa?

I switched my quark tactical tailcap to reverse clickie from time to time whenever i feel like it to tail-stand. You just need to replace the switch module AND the rubber switch boot.
 
Great replies all, thank you much.

My thoughts:

  • Peak El Capitan
    • Wow, interesting light - thanks for the tip! Not quite what I want in an EDC, but definitely will remember if I want to round out my collection of "tough" lights.
    • Desired changes: Brighter, non-collimating optics, multi-level
  • Dereelight C2H
    • Ah yes. Definitely a cool light. It was on my radar back when I was considering P60 hosts (Javelin head). Will probably end up owning one eventually for this reason.
    • Desired changes: for EDC, I'm trying to find something designed for AA/14500 from the get-go (just feel like it ends up cleaner, maybe slimmer). Tougher (stainless steel bezel, or at least crenelated).
  • Nitecore Defender Infinity
    • Oh man, SO close again! This looks like the form factor and bezel I want, but the LED / driver falls short...
    • Desired changes: XP-G, driven harder (at least on 14500!)
  • Quark AA
    • 4Sevens is cool. I might have gotten the Quark AA over the LD10 if not for the fact that it was financed with an Amazon gift card :). I love that you can get it tactical or regular. Are both AA and 14500 regulated (can't find a review that says)?
    • Desired changes: Regulated on both battery types? Tougher (stainless steel bezel, or at least crenelated), tailstanding with forward clicky (not a deal breaker).
Not sure yet which direction I want to go. The stuff I really don't want to compromise on are regulated 14500, forward clicky, and tough / crenelated bezel. XP-G is a strong want: I love the clean beam profile, efficiency, and great EDC flood/throw balance that results with most AA reflectors.

Just another point of reference: Lumapower gets my nod for best clicky. I love it on the IncenDio CPF edition R5, and especially the D-Mini VX.

Again, some great brainstorming - you guys rock! Any interesting custom options out there?
 
Volere AA.
No question on its toughness based on the material and quality. The question lies in your budget.

:drool:

That is BEAUTIFUL. Oh my.

I've never owned any Ti torches, but I've had a titanium watch. It was ridiculously light-weight. I actually like some heft in my torch, even for an EDC... If this thing was in a different metal...say stainless, I'd jump in a second.

Thanks for the tip!
 
it also appears he has a little too much free time to himself....with his Quarks of course :jealous: haha

:nana: :D


Anyone know definitively if the forward clicky switch can be put in the tailstanding cap or vice versa?

I switched my quark tactical tailcap to reverse clickie from time to time whenever i feel like it to tail-stand. You just need to replace the switch module AND the rubber switch boot.


The Quark tailcap housings are exactly the same. The only difference between the Regular tailcap and the Tactical tailcap is the boot, the switch and I have seen differences in the screw-in contact ring. So to answer your question, yes you can easily swap a Tactical switch into a Regular tailcap or vise versa, but chances are, if you have a Regular or Tactical switch, you also have the housing. What I mean is, if you switch a Tactical switch into a Regular housing, you still won't be able to tailstand because both housing are the same, so you might as well just screw on the Tactical tailcap when you want a forwarding switch, and the Regular tailcap when you want tailstanding instead of swapping the switch.

If you're having trouble when swapping the Regular or Tactical tailcaps, try swapping just the contact ring and see if that helps. You can always purchase the Quark Turbo "Flat" tailswitch (click here for price), which houses a Tactical switch (the same one in the Tactical) and it allows tailstanding, but keep in mind that it's larger in diameter than the non-Turbo body. Click here for more info.

I'll include a couple of pics while I'm here:


Tactical Switch:
DSC00127.jpg



Regular Switch:
DSC00132.jpg



Left to right- Turbo, Turbo "Flat", Tactical and Regular:
DSC00265.jpg
 
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One of the toughest 14500 / AA lights ive seen is the Maratac 9290 (Rebranded itp C7)

The thing is solid like a tank! Deep reflector resulting in super tight hotspot and great throw. The UI is a ramping type. Really comes to life on 14500

Pretty much everyone that has played with one agrees its one of the toughest AA lights out there.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=208440
 
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Zebralight eh? Interesting design. I've never tried any serious torches with side buttons before - would have to try this out in person to see how I like it. Rear switches feel intuitive to me, at least in small form-factors.

As for the itp C7 - I've been eyeing and wondering about itp lights for something like a year now. I dunno...the shape of it or something makes it look plasticy in low-res pictures, so I never took it seriously on quick glance. Good to hear that it's actually quite substantial! I love my little Maratac AAA keychain light, so I should have known.

Looks like that series is discontinued, unfortunately. The new iTP SA1 looks nice, though. I just wish it came in XP-G.
 
Zebralight eh? Interesting design. I've never tried any serious torches with side buttons before - would have to try this out in person to see how I like it. Rear switches feel intuitive to me, at least in small form-factors.

As for the itp C7 - I've been eyeing and wondering about itp lights for something like a year now. I dunno...the shape of it or something makes it look plasticy in low-res pictures, so I never took it seriously on quick glance. Good to hear that it's actually quite substantial! I love my little Maratac AAA keychain light, so I should have known.

Looks like that series is discontinued, unfortunately. The new iTP SA1 looks nice, though. I just wish it came in XP-G.

I have the Maratac version of the C7. It really is a tank, I've dropped it plenty of times and still holds up.

Shiningbeam still has them for sale, btw.
 
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