TS10 mod to 4500K E21a

[jon_slider]

 

[PaladinNO]

CRI 99...and here I thought that was just a myth. 😍

 

[TimeOnTarget]

Is the goal to be on the line (duv)?

Above the line being green and below the line becoming rosy?

 

[jon_slider]

CRI 99

my meter is not professional grade.. take the numbers with a bit of salt.. but close, here is the same type of LED measured on professional instrument, and it scored 98 CRI:

Is the goal to be on the line (duv)?

people have different preferences, partly based on what sort of ambient light they are adapted to when they turn on a flashlight.. a car mechanic during the day, has a different brain preset than someone camping and eating food at night

the line is called the Black Body Line (BBL) or Neutral Tint line. Whose numeric value is Tint DUV 0.0000, except above 5000K the BBL has a jog up to Tint DUV 0,0032. Above 5000K the tint reference is nominal for sunlight, which is greener tinted than incandescent bulbs.. that are are the reference for the DUV of 0.0000 on sources below 5000K..

Above the line being green and below the line becoming rosy?

yes.. and above BBL is very typical for Low CRI LEDs

rosy became a new phenomenon when the 219b 4500K came out, it is a very high CRI LED..

and for some people, myself included, rosy tint became preferred. (on the mistaken assumption that pink tint was a predictor of High CRI, which it is not actually)

over time the 219b was released in less and less pink tint.. still a great LED, even if less pink tinted.. or for some preferably not pink tinted

enter the e21a in this thread.. it is considerably less rosy than 4500K 219b, but still very High CRI

lately the 519a LED has become very popular.. its domed tint is slightly above the BBL (what I would call greenish), but many people dont notice that slight greenish cast.. your AA Zebra has such an LED..

here you can see mine tested to have Tint DUV of 0.0040, above the BBL:

because Im a creature of habit, when I see the greenish tint of domed 519a, I react against it.. (there are also studies that suggest people generally prefer slight rosy tint, over neutral or greenish tint). My solution to greenish 519a is usually to DeDome that LED (not all LEDs can be DeDomed, the 519a is unique in that it has a layer of glass between the dome and the phosphor)..

In the case of the Zebra, opening the light risks marring the bezel or breaking the glass, so I did not consider dedoming that one

DeDomed 519a tends to move the Tint DUV below the BBL, which is my personal preference.. it also has other effects, such as changing the color temperature to be about 25% warmer..

Color temperature preferences also vary.. I for example like warmer LEDs at night when relaxing, and cooler during the day, and at night when working..

These two lights would serve me at different times of day.. I switch to the warmer one in the evening, when Im adapted to my incandescent house lights: (the light on right ends up being about 3400K.. just slightly cooler than my ambient light)

for people that hike outdoors at night, where there are few red things (High CRI specifically improves LED's ability to show Red accurately), a Low CRI Cool White LED with Green Tint is somewhat typical, and not objectionable to most people who are just trying to see the trail ahead.

At worst, a Low CRI LED just makes the foliage a more vibrant green ;-)..

courses for horses, there is nothing wrong with Low CRI and Green Tint, in some applications: (we can still see there is something in the tree either way):

(not my photos)
Note the Owl is willing to look at the Warm White light source, but looks away from the Cool White one.. this is a hint that a cool white light has the potential to deter some animals, that hunt by sight at night (such as Lions)..

Someone in Africa recently figured out that lights will stop lions from killing livestock:

A light can also be used to deter a dog, or a bear, but they can still track us by sound and smell..

to add to the complexity of the Tint discussion, the rosy, neutral, or green Tint DUV, are not directly responsible for the difference in those two photos.. on the left was a High CRI HDS, on the right a Low CRI Surefire.. The Color Temperature is the biggest visible variable.. imo the High CRI of the light on the left, is responsible for the more complex gradation of colors

 

[TimeOnTarget]

I am using a pair of new Nitecore EDC23 & 29 at work now for pre-flight duties as they are very bright. I think they are 6500K.

For the vast majority of actual EDC, I prefer warmer tints with good CRI like you do. I find that I use low lumen modes more than anything else most of the time. I really like a low/moonlight mode for navigating hotel rooms.

 

[jon_slider]

a low/moonlight mode for navigating hotel rooms.

agree
One of my primary uses is to walk to the bathroom.

Thats one of the things I like about the little AA Zebras
The stock low mode is just about the perfect minimum amount of light for me.

The ability to go that low, is also why I like my D3AA and TS10..

 

[defloyd77]

Kind of interesting between those 2 pictures, the owl stands out more with the lower CRI light. I'm curious if that is actually the case or if it's because of how and where on the tree it's positioned or perhaps just how the camera shot it.

 

[jon_slider]

the owl stands out more with the lower CRI light

yes, the more monochromatic beam is better at showing form factor differences between branches and bird

the high cri light gives so much more information, its almost information overload..

depends whether we just want to see the form factor, or the subtle gradations of color

if the goal is just to identify a target, Low CRI works fine.. otoh, if the goal is to observe the colors of the target, High CRI offers a lot more detail

Low CRI makes the Grass Look Greener.. lol:

 

[defloyd77]

yes, the more monochromatic beam is better at showing form factor differences between branches and bird

the high cri light gives so much more information, its almost information overload..

depends whether we just want to see the form factor, or the subtle gradations of color

if the goal is just to identify a target, Low CRI works fine.. otoh, if the goal is to observe the colors of the target, High CRI offers a lot more detail

Low CRI makes the Grass Look Greener.. lol:
View attachment 73815

It's just strange because it's kind of the opposite of my in person experiences with animals like deer. The headlight on my bike uses SST-40s and when deer are in overgrown patches, it's very hard to see them. When I turn on the KR1 with a 5700K 519A I mount next to the headlight, it becomes so much easier to spot them.

Looking more at the pictures, I think it's because the owl is a brown-gray color and with a light that produces little brown, it just looks bright gray among green, where a brown deer with lower CRI will still be some sort of brown among brown and greens, so the extra contrast helps.

This all kind of makes me rethink a lot of what I thought I knew about light 🤔

 

[jon_slider]

The headlight on my bike uses SST-40s and when deer are in overgrown patches, it's very hard to see them. When I turn on the KR1 with a 5700K 519A I mount next to the headlight, it becomes so much easier to spot them.

If the SST-40 is warmer than the 519a, that fits with a hunch I have not verified, that Cooler Light, such as your 5700K works better than Warmer Light, for spotting animals at night.

 

[defloyd77]

If the SST-40 is warmer than the 519a, that fits with a hunch I have not verified, that Cooler Light, such as your 5700K works better than Warmer Light, for spotting animals at night.

There actually pretty close by my naked eye, kind of hard to tell with how warm the 519A looks despite being a cool white. I'm guessing it's the 5700K 70 CRI variant of SST40. I really should do a swap, but I'm no modder unfortunately.