Turquoise Energizer Folding Mod...

[e=mc²]

I had to jump on the bandwagon and break out the 'ol solder iron and put to use some of my new Nichia Blue Greens. Ordered direct from Nichia as I wanted no surprises as some websites sell "Blue/Green or Turquoise" but they are really "Aqua Green" with that horrible hourglass pattern. Anyways have a look at two of my "cheap cam" shots.
<img src=http://draucik.homestead.com/files/WallyFold2.jpg>
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<img src=http://draucik.homestead.com/files/WallyFold1.jpg>

Regards,
Ed

P.S. Anyone know where to get these turquoise LEDs cheaper? Nichia charged me $6 ea for 50. Kinda hurts the wallet. Ouch!

 

[vcal]

Ouch is about right:O
But your photos are lookin' better!

p.s.-would you say that light is now overall brighter than it was originally?

 

[e=mc²]

Thanks, vcal, I forgot to mention brightness which is the main reason I started this post. It is way brighter than the original. I have nothing to gauge it against, since I don't know how to fairly compare white vs. cyan light. BUT, all that aside, it is at least twice as bright as the original. Regarding my photos, it's sort of difficult to capture this beam as the eye perceives it, but the color rendered in the photos is EXACT, at least on my monitor. Notice that the beam easily overdrives the CCD device in the digital camera. Even in daylight, the tubes appear cyan when illuminated. The color is definitely striking. Just make sure to use Turquoise ones (as in the Photon series) like I did. I tried it with the other type, the Aqua Green ones and while bright, they don't have the striking appearance of the Cyan aka Turquoise. Maybe I'm just partial to the Blues, but in anycase, I wish the photos could do this one more justice.

Regards,

Ed

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Edwood, do you need to do any other modification other than install the led as is?

 

[e=mc²]

FlashlightDude:
No, I just replaced the two white ones on the tiny circuit board that they are mounted on. There are two resistors already on the board, one for each LED, I think 50 ohms, color code is Green/Brown/Black/Gold.

Regards,
Ed

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Thanks Edwood - Happy Thanksgiving to you and all the CPF'ers.

 

[vcal]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Edwood:
FlashlightDude:
No, I just replaced the two white ones on the tiny circuit board that they are mounted on. There are two resistors already on the board, one for each LED, I think 50 ohms, color code is Green/Brown/Black/Gold.

Regards,
Ed<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Edwood, when you replaced those LEDs, did you remove the front lens to access them, or the back panel of the LED compartment? -(it looks like the back panel snaps off, but I don't want to break or crack anything).

 

[e=mc²]

vcal:
Since the LEDs are somewhat extending into the "tubes", I removed the clear lens, to which the tubes are attached, then I removed the two small philips screws on the hinge, exposing the little circuit board. I had to carefully unsnap it from the white backpanel, which on the first attempt resulted in one side of the snap hooks to crack. It is still that way, but with one side still intact, it is held fairly securely when reassembled. Learning from my first "oops", I modified one for my neighbor who upon seeing mine, wanted one due to the uniqueness of the color. If you bought the NSPE series from nichia, then you will have the correct one. It is the same as used in the Photon turquoise, not the one with the strange "stealth bomber" dice pattern, which are much more "greener". The bomber pattern LEDs are evem brighter, albeit much narrower, but sanding will fix that if you go with those instead. I was shooting for the uniqueness of the color rather than brightness. Good Luck. I hope that helps.


Regards,

Ed

 

[vcal]

Edwood,-thanks a lot for that info!