UCL For Ultrastinger Quick & Easy

[Flash_Gordon]

Hi Lips-

I have two aftermarket 3000 mAh sticks plus my stock NiCd stick for my US. I did not do a straight runtime test with the 1160, because I just did not want to let it sit there and run. Lots of heat from this setup plus it just takes life off the expensive lamp. In routine use I have not noticed that the runtime seems too short. With three batteries to rotate I'll always have at least two that are fully charged.

You have to do something to stabilize the 1160 lamp. At first I tried just sticking the two legs into the bi-pin socket, but it would not reliably stay in or remain correctly positioned. I solved this by very carefully wiggling the stock lamp until I could pull it out of the stock lamp holder, leaving the ceramic potting behind . Before doing this, I measured the height of the filament above the top of the lamp holder. I was able to insert the pins of the 1160 through the original holes in the potting material in the holder and seat it properly. Then trimmed the leads to the proper length to go into the bi-pin socket. The lamp is perfectly held and aligned.

The beam is just awesome. There is a narrow center beam that throws like crazy. I adjust the focus on this portion of the beam until the donut hole is gone. This is surrounded by a huge cone of spill that lights up everything in the near field beautifully. We had a very light fog the other night. This enabled me to actually see the entire beam structure for the first time. Very symmetrical and very clean.

I am very happy with this fairly simple mod. I can't give you a direct comparison to the MagCharger as I do not have one.

Mark

 

[Lips]

Flash_Gordon

Thanks for the lamp seating tip. I would have probably been drilling that glass lens out to fix the alignment. I only ordered one lens so hope I get it right the first time.

The MC 1160 with a Fivemega alum LOP gives a much wider beam even at tight focus than the stock US but still has same throw if not slightly more.

Can't wait to try this out. Will report back.

Thanks again.

Vic

 

[Lips]

Flash_Gordon

Quick question:

What do you do it the buld gets out of alignment once the new lens has been installed. S... out of luck?

 

[Flash_Gordon]

Flash_Gordon

Quick question:

What do you do it the buld gets out of alignment once the new lens has been installed. S... out of luck?

No problem. You can still unscrew the head assembly from the body tube and the lamp and its holder are exposed as always.

 

[Lips]

Man I feel stupid, and I told the other guy about focusing the US

 

[Lips]

Hey Flash Gordon

I have successfully completed my (3600mah battery) Ultra Stinger UCL lens and 1160 bulb upgrade. Although it was not as a big of an improvement in brightness as putting a WA1160 in a Magcharger (FM LOP) it made the Ultra Stinger brighter with the same tight throw as the stock version, much tighter than the Magcharger. The Ultra Stinger must have some resistance in the switch or the bulb holder which cuts down on the brightness increase, probably under driving the bulb. Centering and stabilizing the bulb is a must as well as filament height. All in all I am happy so far with the Mod. Thanks for your help.


Some points on the MOD:

Be careful drilling the stock lens as the bit may catch and hit the reflector, mine almost did. Lens comes out with a little cutting and work. Cleaned particles up with canned air and a little alcohol. I used a paper clip and sharpie to mark the height of the filament. I used a paper clip to make the holes in the ceramic a little larger because the legs on the WA1160 are larger. I took a small drill bit by hand and carefully made an indention in the ceramic holder for the bulb to seat a little lower for filament height alignment and stability. I had trouble getting the lens to pop into place. I too put mine in the oven like Lurveleven. The oven may have caused mine to expand too much. I used a suction cup on the lens after cleaning the underside extensively. Turned the head over to apply the pressure. If you do it glass up that pushes the reflector out and lens will not seat. Mine never clicked but it is in there and won't come out! A small flake on side of lens appeared no problem. Obvious to the pros but not newbs, never touch the builds with your fingers, if you do wipe them down with alcohol. It was a fun mod and nothing was very difficult. Don't try it like me while you are on the phone with GF talking about BS. Concentrate! Thanks to Flash for turning me on to this MOD.

Anyone have any improvements to the MOD or US!

 

[lebox97]

flash_gordon found a source for new reflectors (the coating on mine wiped off with a finger! ) $6.40
http://www.streamlightonline.com/fl...replacement_parts/775011_reflector.asp?bhcp=1

a heated head and two cracked in half lens later - am still figuring out how to put in the UCL... works ok for now (with the crack through the middle) but dang!

 

[dano]

I think there may be an issue with the uCL lens mod, and that is due to the two different US head versions:

Early US's had a one piece head design, where the reflector and head were one piece. The latest US's have a two piece head design, with the reflector being a seperate piece to the head.

My very early US head will not take a glass lens, no matter what size. I haven't tried it with a two-piece head assembly.

-dan

 

[Flash_Gordon]

I was not aware of the different heads. Mine has a separate reflector with an o-ring that sits on the top edge.

Like all mods, even fairly simple ones, there can be difficulties. I am very happy with the outcome I got.

On mine, I just kept lowering the bulb height until I got it to focus perfectly in about the middle of the turning range. I tried to figure out an accurate way to measure and mark the filament (like Lips did), but resorted to trial and error.

I have no accurate way to measure the before and after output. It seems brighter with the 1160. One thing for sure is I got a much much bigger spill and beautifully coned shaped too.

Mark

 

[Lips]

I love mine modded. When my aftermarket 3600mah NIMH battery stick sits on trickle charge for a long time it needs to be tricked to put battery at peak full charge. The ceramic plug keeps the bulb nice and centered also. Great mod! :rock:

 

[Flash_Gordon]

Hi Lips-

The stock SL charger does not work well with the NiMh sticks. I don't know if it actually does damage, but it does not sense the the end of charge signal. I use the stock charger on the NiCd in the light if I want to use it.

I got one of these: NiMh Charger and it works great. I rotate my two NiMh sticks and always have a ready spare.

I built a modified version of Cy's charging clamp and it works out really well.
Charging Clamp.

Mark

 

[MSI]

The Stinger HP head (that is sold separatly to upgrade your Stinger) is one piece, no separate reflector, and the mod works in that as well.

 

[dano]

The Stinger HP head (that is sold separatly to upgrade your Stinger) is one piece, no separate reflector, and the mod works in that as well.

That's the same style of head the early US's used. I can't get a glass lens in there, no matter what's tried.

Anyways, if you don't want to use a NIMH pack, the SL-20X/LED uses a 2400MAH NiCad stick (Ultrastinger stock batteries are 1800MAH), which is compatible with the Ultrastinger charging cradle, and it will give you some extra run time.


--dan

 

[dw51]

Anyone try this mod with a WA 1111? Is it possible or am I asking for trouble? How bout a 1111 in a Mag Charger?

 

[fivemega]

Anyone try this mod with a WA 1111? Is it possible or am I asking for trouble? How bout a 1111 in a Mag Charger?

It is possible but for long run, excessive heat may ruin Stinger switch assembly.
This problem in M*g charger already solved with ceramic slug.

 

[lebox97]

UCL and WA1111 (or maybe it's an 1160) =
yup, that's what happened to mine - put light in grab bag - and a couple of days later realized it was dead (light had switched on w/o my knowledge). Switch is now a momentary one (no longer a clickie)
havn't taken switch apart yet to see if I can get clickie working again :candle: - otherwise new ones are $8-10 I think?

It is possible but for long run, excessive heat may ruin Stinger switch assembly....

 

[dw51]

One note for others attempting this. In a previous post it was mentioned to put the head in the oven at 200C. Don't do like I did and overlook the C. I put mine in at 200F and it must not have expanded enough because it resulted in a lense in a thousand pieces. When I get my new lenses (yes, this time I was smart and ordered an extra) I'll try again at the proper temp.

 

[Lips]

My lense fell out a couple of times on this mod so I mixed a little quick-set glue and carefully glued the lens in... No problems ever since...

 

[vacuum3d]

Having read thru this thread, I ordered two lenses and proceeded to the mod. It actually turned out to be simpler than I had anticipated. I cut a round piece of card board and pushed the head and glass against the card board laying on the carpet. Probably took about five minutes to complete.

I had tried 1160. It's not much of an improvement over the stock lamp. I then tried 1183. Nice and bright. White beam too. Runtime is only about 15 minutes with the stock battery stick. I have noticed that the spring that contacts with the switch assembly had begun to melt the plastic a little. I have also noticed that the reflect had a little bit of fogging. I think heat is going to be a problem with the US head.

Overall, the mod is fairly simple. I think the UCL is worth changing even for people who don't want to use Hotwire bulbs.

Thanks for the mod instructions Flash_Gordon!
ernest

 

[lumenjunkie]

WARNING!

This mod does NOT always work. I tried this mod precisely as described. I ordered 4 of the 55MM UCL's from flashlightlens.com . I wound up with a ruined Ultrastinger head, as I has removed the cheap plastic lens SL puts in their lights.

I would recommend NOT trying this, as it does not work all the time, and it costs about $35 to replace an US head. It is not quick, not easy, and you will damage your light.

Further, Flashlightlens.com will not refund your money on a damaged UCL lens. They say they do not support this mod. (although he did promise to refund the 3 undamaged lens)

This little mod COST ME about $40.00!!!

Really very frustrated over this entire deal!