Ultimate D-cell Fashlight

[metlarules]

I see all of these threads on the ultimate flashlight and what you want to be built and I thought it would be fun to limit it to a d-cell. So lets hear it!
What would be your ultimate D-cell setup be.

Mine would be a modular setup with extendable battery tubes from one to however many you want to add on. Multiple head design where one would be a multi die led(P-7 or new cree) with replacable drivers dependent on how many batteries you have in the light at the time. You could light 1,2,3,or 4 of the dies dependent upon how much light you need at the time.The other head would be void of leds or drivers and would accept the heads of various pocket lights(Fenix,Olight,Jetbeam,etc...). The head would screw into the center and would use the refector of the head to extend the throw of the donor head. Another head could accept pr based incandesent/led bulbs with another socket for bi bins for those hotwires.Include rechargable batteries with an external port and smart charger.Put all of this in a kit with carrying case and I think I would be in heaven.

 

[Gunner12]

Mone would be 1 D sized with the ability to accept most batteries smaller then the D cell via a special thing that I'm checking to see if there are any patents on.

Basic would be:

It would have a single or multi die LED in a focusable optic powered by a single 1D battery.

It will have one switch, on the side of the light. It would be a depressable knob. A click turns the light on and a half press is momentary. Turn the knob to adjust brightness and press for strobe at that light level. Turn during strobe mode to adjust the strobe speed. Holding down for 5 seconds when on locks it to strobe mode for that use. Turning off the light will reset it to constant on at whatever output level the light was on. A quick double tap of the knob will turn the light on at "tactical" strobe mode at max output for as long as the knob is held down.

The driver would be a buck boost made to accept up to 10v and down to 0.7v. Or maybe one for buck and one for boost, switchable via a sensor that senses the battery voltage and switches to the appropriate driver.

Attachments will allow the light to be up to 6D size.

The top part of the light, the driver, LED, optic, and switch, are removeable and can be swapped for an adaptor for a different light or a incan module. Bot with the appropriate parts.

 

[qip]

mine is 90% perfect , just need multilevel switch , a seoul in tailcap module and hoped that malkoff could be maxed at 6.8v instead of 6v this way i could use 4AA L91 @1.7v=6.8v anyway this is my ultimate D cell light of versatility...chose the malkoff over multi led because this setup allows use of common batteries sold everywhere as multi led are too high powered and need nimh and most likely less runtime

-Mag 1D with Malkoff running 3AA

-1D & 2D Extensions to run all 1D,2D,3D,4D ,and yes the malkoff actually runs estimated 40 lumens on 1D

-3AA battery holder to run 3AA L91...fyi i tested 3aa L91 and got 2 hours before i stopped it , could have gone more but at least knowing i got 2 hours on 3aa is good enough for me

-2 heads SMO & Kai MOP w detachable cam , cover flood & throw both with UCL lens

-2-6 cell pr drop in for emergency in tailcap TLE-1F , wish it was Seoul Everled

- Kai gold spring

in the case i have spare gold spring,ucl lens,stock lens, nyogel, batteries D & AA



my tailcap is gold spring with the detachable cam and stock bulb retainer fitting perfectly , TLE-1F module for runtime emergency



.

 

[BlueBeam22]

I would like to have a 1D LED Maglite, it would be so perfect for me because it would be very compact, bright, and the wide D size body would feel good to hold.

 

[PhantomPhoton]

Unfortunately M@g extensions are hard to find. Only ones I know of right now are fivemega's 1/2 D sized extenders. But I do have a nice shortened 1D mag and a fivemega 3AA > D and run an Elektrolumens creation in there with wonderful effects.

 

[jag808808]

qip,

I use everyday D size alkys in my Uluapoundr P7 in a red 3D. He did a tailcap resistance solder since I could not purchase rechargeables. I could kick myself for not jumping on your sale. You were offering a 1D cutdown at such a great price! Now, if I could offer the same flexibility with my P7, that would be awesome.

Aloha,

jag

mine is 90% perfect , just need multilevel switch , a seoul in tailcap module and hoped that malkoff could be maxed at 6.8v instead of 6v this way i could use 4AA L91 @1.7v=6.8v anyway this is my ultimate D cell light of versatility...chose the malkoff over multi led because this setup allows use of common batteries sold everywhere as multi led are too high powered and need nimh and most likely less runtime

-Mag 1D with Malkoff running 3AA

-1D & 2D Extensions to run all 1D,2D,3D,4D ,and yes the malkoff actually runs estimated 40 lumens on 1D

-3AA battery holder to run 3AA L91...fyi i tested 3aa L91 and got 2 hours before i stopped it , could have gone more but at least knowing i got 2 hours on 3aa is good enough for me

-2 heads SMO & Kai MOP w detachable cam , cover flood & throw both with UCL lens

-2-6 cell pr drop in for emergency in tailcap TLE-1F , wish it was Seoul Everled

- Kai gold spring

in the case i have spare gold spring,ucl lens,stock lens, nyogel, batteries D & AA



my tailcap is gold spring with the detachable cam and stock bulb retainer fitting perfectly , TLE-1F module for runtime emergency



.

 

[3rdrock]

qip,

You were offering a 1D cutdown at such a great price! Now, if I could offer the same flexibility with my P7, that would be awesome.

Thats why I jumped on it. Its 5 9/16 long and fits my hand perfect. :devil:

Right now it has a KD Q5 drop-in,AW "C" cell and Mac's sleeve.I use it for work.

I put it to good use tuesday,in a dark store.I work on gas pumps,Gas control systems,every system to do with retail fuel systems.After 20+ years this happened (short story ver)

Tripped a breaker and a flame licked my finger from the crack next to the panel and the breaker, and a welding sound started. I turned it off and reseated the breaker and turned it back on, all ok.Walked to the other end of the store and checked communication to the gas pump and now it worked. I walked out of the store to test #1 and then the cashier ran out of the store yelling "Fire". I turned #1 off and went inside store to find breaker panel fully engulfed in flames, and the sound of welding again. I yelled for someone to dial 911 and looked for a breaker to turn off in the main panel next to the flaming one, too much fire. I had to run to the other end of the store to get a fire extinguisher and and put out the panel, but the flames traveled inside the conduits and where burning 6 to 8 feet away from the panel up,down,left ,right I had to put them out. Now its dark in the store because of the electrical fire, and no one called the fire dept. No cell phone signal in the happening town of Paisley, picked up the store phone, its dead, cordless phone, no power. I had to get a phone from my truck and plug it in to call the fire dept.Good thing the fire went out or buy the time I was able to make a phone call, the store would have burned to the ground.

Got a cordless phone in your house? Get 1 old school cord phone just in case.
This was to be a COD call, my boss said no charge.
:hahaha:
Hey manager, thanks for letting me set your store on fire, here is your bill. hahaha

The firemen asked to use my flashlight to see the damage and to get into the attic,both made a comment on it.:rock: When the firemen came down from the attic, they said most of the wiring was not up to code.


I also just went off of call.I used it every night.

 

[jerry i h]

Well, how 'bout this:

Well, we might want to start a 12xP7 thread, as most of your posts might get lost in here, this is really supposed to be a 4xP7 thread.

Anyway..........

I think 700 lumens per P7 is a reasonable assumption, using 'C' bin with low Vf

12x700 = 8,400 (minimum)

12x3.6v = 43.2v (twelve Li-Ions) (nominal)
or group the LEDs in 6 pairs, 7.2v per pair, use six Li-Ions , 21.6v nominal

I lean towards 6 pairs of P7 LEDs, and 5.6A

My cost of the LEDs alone would be well over $300. If there is someone willing to pay $1000, I will build it.

This will work in a 5" head, same as ELX-12 I built before:

Elektro

 

[qip]

3d rock, did you scrape off the anodizing

 

[Fallingwater]

Only reason to use a D cell in place of a 18650 would be runtime on alkalines. Therefore, if I were to buy a D-cell light, it'd be something powered by a single D cell with a long-lasting (so not a Nichia GS) 5mm LED, with a multimode driver and maybe an extension tube to run it on two Ds for double the runtime.

 

[3rdrock]

3d rock, did you scrape off the anodizing

No,dremel sanding wheel. :wave: