ROK
Enlightened
Hi folks,
Here I'd like to share my E1E / E1D mod.
Many people like the E1E form factor. And we have seen several kind of E1E mod. But all the previous E1E mod didn't meet my taste.
So I did my own E1E mod as follows. Frankly this modding concept is based on Aleph system.
1st Mod : Done 1 year ago
- Machined E2D Head to accept McR20-S and XR-CAN
- E1E BK Body
- E2D Tailcap
- McR20-S Reflector (file down rear 1st step)
- XR-CAN
- Aluminum disc
- Piglet Board (50/500mA)
- SSC P4 USWOH
Exploded View
At that time, machined area of front end is little bit shallow because I worry about thin wall thickness. So, I file down the rear first step of reflector.
I have totally satisfied with the result except 3 side terrible chuck marks :hairpull: which are cause by local small machine shop. (Unfortunately I have no lathe)
I believe I can find good local machine shop. But it takes more time and money. More difficult thing is most machine shops do not want to do this kind of small work.
2nd Mod : Finished today
What are the differences in 2nd mod.
- Flawless Machined E1E Head
- McR20-S Reflector
- New designed one piece CAN for better heatsinking and good LED centering
- SSC P4 U2SWOI
Parts
Through this mod I made a good friend, CPF'er nekomane. :twothumbs I believe this is more worth than mod itself.
He machined E1E Head and one piece Heatsink for me.
As far as I know he has a small lathe but his work is fantastic.
What a good guy and what a beautiful job! :bow: :bow: :bow:
I have added emitter seat to easy upgrade of LED.
Perfect LED center
Which one do you prefer? :nana:
Thanks again my friend nekomane. :buddies:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How to build the LE
Needed Parts
- Piglet Board
- One piece Heatsink
- SSC P4 Emitter
- Teflon wire
- Arctic Alumina 2 part Epoxy
- Thermal Grease
- 5 minute clear 2 parts Epoxy
- Emitter seat
1. Check the function of Piglet Board
2. Make a notch on the bottom of XR-CAN to solder the ground wire.
3. Pre-solder on above notch (do not solder too much)
4. File down the positive tap of Piglet board (tap is must be lower than end of heatsink, refer to 1st photo)
5. Insert the Piglet Board to the heatsink and check the dimension with E1E Body without tailcap (if there is some battery play all is good)
6. Bond the Emitter Seat to Emitter position with AA Epoxy (Check the isolation of Emitter Seat from Heatsink)
7. Bond the Emitter Leads Seats with 5 minute Clear Epoxy and also coat heatsink wall with Clear Epoxy to prevent the short circuit
8. Put AA Epoxy to Piglet Board to protect the electronic parts
9. Put some AA Epoxy to inner wall of Heatsink and insert the Piglet Board and wait curing
10. Solder the ground wire to the notch first then solder to board
11. Cut excessive wire and file down smoothly
12. Straighten the both LED leads and cut square area
13. Put small thermal grease and sit the emitter
14. Solder both LED+ and LED- wires
15. Check the its function
16. Completed
* Be careful to handle the emitter. The soft dome is very weak. So, do not touch or press the dome.
* In Piglet Board, LED- and Battery Ground are different. (very precise circuit)
Here I'd like to share my E1E / E1D mod.
Many people like the E1E form factor. And we have seen several kind of E1E mod. But all the previous E1E mod didn't meet my taste.
So I did my own E1E mod as follows. Frankly this modding concept is based on Aleph system.
1st Mod : Done 1 year ago
- Machined E2D Head to accept McR20-S and XR-CAN
- E1E BK Body
- E2D Tailcap
- McR20-S Reflector (file down rear 1st step)
- XR-CAN
- Aluminum disc
- Piglet Board (50/500mA)
- SSC P4 USWOH
Exploded View
At that time, machined area of front end is little bit shallow because I worry about thin wall thickness. So, I file down the rear first step of reflector.
I have totally satisfied with the result except 3 side terrible chuck marks :hairpull: which are cause by local small machine shop. (Unfortunately I have no lathe)
I believe I can find good local machine shop. But it takes more time and money. More difficult thing is most machine shops do not want to do this kind of small work.
2nd Mod : Finished today
What are the differences in 2nd mod.
- Flawless Machined E1E Head
- McR20-S Reflector
- New designed one piece CAN for better heatsinking and good LED centering
- SSC P4 U2SWOI
Parts
Through this mod I made a good friend, CPF'er nekomane. :twothumbs I believe this is more worth than mod itself.
He machined E1E Head and one piece Heatsink for me.
As far as I know he has a small lathe but his work is fantastic.
What a good guy and what a beautiful job! :bow: :bow: :bow:
I have added emitter seat to easy upgrade of LED.
Perfect LED center
Which one do you prefer? :nana:
Thanks again my friend nekomane. :buddies:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How to build the LE
Needed Parts
- Piglet Board
- One piece Heatsink
- SSC P4 Emitter
- Teflon wire
- Arctic Alumina 2 part Epoxy
- Thermal Grease
- 5 minute clear 2 parts Epoxy
- Emitter seat
1. Check the function of Piglet Board
2. Make a notch on the bottom of XR-CAN to solder the ground wire.
3. Pre-solder on above notch (do not solder too much)
4. File down the positive tap of Piglet board (tap is must be lower than end of heatsink, refer to 1st photo)
5. Insert the Piglet Board to the heatsink and check the dimension with E1E Body without tailcap (if there is some battery play all is good)
6. Bond the Emitter Seat to Emitter position with AA Epoxy (Check the isolation of Emitter Seat from Heatsink)
7. Bond the Emitter Leads Seats with 5 minute Clear Epoxy and also coat heatsink wall with Clear Epoxy to prevent the short circuit
8. Put AA Epoxy to Piglet Board to protect the electronic parts
9. Put some AA Epoxy to inner wall of Heatsink and insert the Piglet Board and wait curing
10. Solder the ground wire to the notch first then solder to board
11. Cut excessive wire and file down smoothly
12. Straighten the both LED leads and cut square area
13. Put small thermal grease and sit the emitter
14. Solder both LED+ and LED- wires
15. Check the its function
16. Completed
* Be careful to handle the emitter. The soft dome is very weak. So, do not touch or press the dome.
* In Piglet Board, LED- and Battery Ground are different. (very precise circuit)
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