UnOfficial Zebralight Modification Options.

[jon_slider]

Somebody figured out how to change the LED in Zebralights. clic for more info:


Somebody figured out how to modify a Zebralight SC64 LE, so that it has an illuminated button, a 519a LED, and Anduril UI (clic for more info):


Somebody figured out how to modify a Zebralight SC700, to add Aux lights, change the LED to XHP70.3, and change the UI to Anduril. clic for more info.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Interesting thread slider. The excellent switch placement, practical lightweight physical form and durable quality of the anodizing makes ZL a good candidate for customization.

I wonder if anyone remembers CPF member DaFABRICATA using a lathe to remove the aluminum head of a Zebralight to use the engine in a custom flashlight? Putting the ZL guts into another host!

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/homemade-brass-zebralight-sc52-pd-my-first-complete-flashlight-build.375206/

Please link more examples when you find them.

 

[Connor]

Somebody figured out how to modify a Zebralight SC700, to add Aux lights, change the LED to XHP70.3, and change the UI to Anduril.

I'm extremely impressed by this mod. The amount of work and time that must have went into this .. just wow.
Also totally envious, I do want one of those.

 

[jon_slider]

The excellent switch placement, practical lightweight physical form and durable quality of the anodizing makes ZL a good candidate for customization.

Agree, good ergonomics, including a switch that is not prone to accidental activation. Also aluminium unibody, and the copper heatsink under the mcpcb, provide excellent heat dissipation

Zebralight LED modification info,
dedoming a stock 519a:

The first challenge to an LED modification in a Zebralight Host, is getting the bezel out without breaking the glass.

This post shows one way to get the bezel out of the way in order to dedome the stock 4000K 519a in the SC53c N. Dedoming can be accomplished without removing any of the potting, nor the driver.

This post shows a different tool option used to remove the bezel.

replacing a stock LED:

Once the bezel is out, replacing the LED in a Zebra, requires peeling off the conformal coating (potting), and extracting the driver/LED assembly from the host.

This post has a few photos of the process to replace the stock 4000K LH351d LED, to install a 219b, in an SC64c LE. There is a rumor that Zebralight may offer the SC64c LED with a 519a in stock form, in future runs.

 

[knucklegary]

I like the bezel removal tool👍

 

[iceyLED]

I remember, and though it may seem a similar modification at first glance, this mod honors what makes a Zebralight a Zebralight.

So a Zebralight is only a Zebralight if the driver and UI is retained? Who elected you as the dictator deciding that for everyone!?

This mod has no unibody construction; no perfect switch placement; no industry leading size to performance ratio; no unique anodizing. This is so much further from what a Zebralight is than the SC700 mod loneoceans did. It's still immensely cool but let's not pretend it's more of a ZL than something else that's ultimately a more of a 'pure' Zebralight as it retains so many more of the Zebralight traits people obsess over..

We get it though, you don't like the Anduril mod. Guess what? Nobody cares because the way you go about trying to make everyone feel as if they're wrong is ridiculous. You're ostracizing yourself by being a huge PITA. Please address that before adding any more nonsense as it's only going to make more and more people look at you like one of, if not the most ignorant, arrogant and annoying people here!

 

[chillinn]

So a Zebralight is only a Zebralight if the driver and UI is retained? Who elected you as the dictator deciding that for everyone!?

This mod has no unibody construction; no perfect switch placement; no industry leading size to performance ratio; no unique anodizing. This is so much further from what a Zebralight is than the SC700 mod loneoceans did. It's still immensely cool but let's not pretend it's more of a ZL than something else that's ultimately a more of a 'pure' Zebralight as it retains so many more of the Zebralight traits people obsess over..

We get it though, you don't like the Anduril mod. Guess what? Nobody cares because the way you go about trying to make everyone feel as if they're wrong is ridiculous. You're ostracizing yourself by being a huge PITA. Please address that before adding any more nonsense as it's only going to make more and more people look at you like one of, if not the most ignorant, arrogant and annoying people here!

Pure poetry. The linguistic mastery you have of the English language when you are uncontrollably ranting is enviable, as is your transparently thin skin.

Here's a counter example: there are two cars in front of you that appear identical, let's say a Mercedes coupe. One is a cherry stock Mercedes, the other is what only appears to be a cherry stock Mercedes, but under the hood it hides a Chevy 350 engine. They're both for sale at the ridiculous low price of $10K. Which one do you buy?

Putting a Zebralight engine in a 6P makes that result more of a Zebralight than modding a Zebralight host to have an Andúril2 driver. My sensibilities regarding brain swapping are not all that different to others, and it extends beyond flashlights, because what matters more than appearances is behavior. If we could swap Charles Manson's brain with Taylor Swift's, it would be immediately apparent that the one that only looks like Charles Manson is a musician and performer and the one that looks like Taylor Swift is the sociopath. We'd know this by their behavior. We would not say that because a sociopath looks like Taylor Swift that it must be her. This is not novel thinking, it is common, and we would expect most to agree. It is idiomatic: appearances can be deceiving. Behavior never lies.

 

[Connor]

You're ostracizing yourself by being a huge PITA.

At this point I'd like to suggest to just ignore this person. It's wonderfully quiet since I did.
I'd like to add that I'm disappointed in the mods not doing anything about this. Greta would have used the ban hammer a long time ago.

 

[scalpel_ninja]

Very impressive. I’ve always enjoyed reading about projects like this. Also in the automotive realm, like putting a WRX or Porsche engine in a classic Beetle. I have a classic 1960 Mini and almost went for a Yamaha R1 engine swap. Something about a classic British tin can shell with an engine screaming at 15k rpm is just hilariously ridiculous.

 

[jon_slider]

In order of complexity

1. Dedoming is a pretty simple mod for the SC53cN, since there is no need to take the PCB out.

2. Changing the LED is a bit more involved, as it requires removing the PCB for reflowing.

3. Changing the driver to Anduril is the most complex option, of which there are presently two approaches, the Lume1 conversion w Aux lights, and this simpler option that has an illuminated button:


more info here:

 

[jon_slider]

PSA, for people interested in using LiIon in the SC53c N.
(corrections and additional info welcome):

Zebralight deleted LVP from the driver, to make room for more mode groups, and officially the light is not LiIon compatible.

USB Rechargeable Protected 14500 LiIon from Lumintop, fit and work in SC53c N.

When going from 14500 LiIon, back to AA, remove the LiIon and Press the Switch for a moment, while the light has no battery inside, before inserting the AA battery.

This resets the battery meter so it works w AA Voltage after using LiIon..

 

[jon_slider]

UnOfficial Alternative
Headband for Zebras

 

[jon_slider]

The Best UnOfficial Pocket clip option:


UnOfficial Magnets and clips

 

[jon_slider]

PSA, for people interested in using LiIon in the SC53c N.
(corrections and additional info welcome):

Zebralight deleted LVP from the driver, to make room for more mode groups, and officially the light is not LiIon compatible.

USB Rechargeable Protected 14500 LiIon from Lumintop, fit and work in SC53c N.

When going from 14500 LiIon, back to AA, remove the LiIon and Press the Switch for a moment, while the light has no battery inside, before inserting the AA battery.

This resets the battery meter so it works w AA Voltage after using LiIon..

update, further testing of LVP of the 53 series suggests that

10A batteries will turn off around 3V, whereas

3A battery will overdischarge.. more details here:

 

[jon_slider]

I just ordered my first UnOfficial Zebralight.. a McBob 64c LE mod w sw30..
Im trusting he did not let the High CRI Magic Smoke escape.. lol

 

[Mr. LED]

update, further testing of LVP of the 53 series suggests that

10A batteries will turn off around 3V, whereas

3A battery will overdischarge.. more details here:

I don’t understand the logic in that.

 

[jon_slider]

I don’t understand the logic in that.

Me neither, I dont even think I would understand the explanation. ;-)

If I had an SC53 and wanted to use LiIon, I would use one with a 10A discharge rate, and do my own test, to verify that it shuts off below 3V.

We only have one test with a 3A discharge rate Vapcell F12 14500 battery. It overdischarged.

If anyone wants to replicate the test, please share results.
Does a Vapcell F12 shut off by 2.7V or no?

 

[Mr. LED]

If I would use 14500 in a SC53c N I would just recharge or change battery when the level steps down, I wouldn’t wait for it to shut down.

 

[jon_slider]

I wouldn’t wait for it to shut down.

I agree, our brain can be the UnOfficial LVP

But before lending the light to an untrained operator (I actually never do that), I would just want to know if the light would shut itself off, in the unexpected event that "grandma" might fall asleep w the light on..

Since I have a choice, I would use a 10A battery that shuts off if the light is left on unintentionally (even though I never do that), instead of a 3A battery that can overdischarge.

 

[Lips]

I don't think the LVP (low voltage protection) is there at all in the 53 models

mah of the battery doesn't matter.

When using the light normally, as in on-off cycles, the lights will step-down every time. When you get to medium and then the low it takes a long time to run the battery down too low especially on Lithium-ion and even Eneloop. Keep it going and it'll go to flickering.

The newer INR batteries like vapcell F12 can take going lower vs the older ICR Lighium-ion

Do a straight run-time test at 198 lumens (avoiding too much heat but getting the light hot) or probably any level doing a ceiling bounce like when the power is off and the light is liable to blow through the step-downs and run the battery to flicker... On Eneloops it blew right thru step-downs almost every time and on Lithium-ion it step-down sometimes but kept going lower and lower...